FrostyMaGee

It really does look like that may have happened. Yikes! That might explain some of the rest right in that area. Along with a leaking clock cap of course. It’s definitely rough looking in that whole part of the mobo. I’d like to see what it looks like after he does a good cleaning to reassess.

Could you post a close up picture of the power rails at 6-8 on the underside of your motherboard (underneath where the clock cap was situated)? 7 is probably where the issue may lie but you should look at them carefully to see if there are any broken traces or other instances of trace rot there that need to be repaired. That’s a good place to start with visual inspection given the condition of the clock cap you described.

True. Lol. I was just trying to clarify what Bowl was saying. Plus I like picoPromsd! That being said i do like to learn new and other ways to do things. That’s always a good thing. I’m too spoiled now with dtomcat18’s device though. Lol. I don’t want to go back to doing it the old way but it’s good to know I can and that people are still working to innovate and improve on processes.

Honestly if you’re running for a few hours and still in the 45-55C range you’re probably fine. The 1.0 has the case fan and a fan on the gpu and tends to run cooler than the aforementioned. Should you want to replace the thermal though just be sure to do a few things. -as fox and thairanny mention be sure to heat up the cpu/gpu by either letting it run for ten or so mins or using a heat gun. The cpu heat sink will probably fall off on its own after the clip is removed. The gpu heat sink almost always sticks hence the needed heat. Do not try and pry them off or force them off. You can irreparably damage your system doing this. If there’s still resistance it needs to be heated up a bit more. You should easily be able to slightly twist them loose. I use a heat gun and it usually takes less than ten secs on a low temp before it comes loose. -also mentioned was to take care when removing the clips. They’re old and can be brittle. The best way is to use your finger or thumb to press in on the smaller side of the clip and gently work the main (larger) side of the clip loose with your other hand. This is the nice way and tends to have less of a chance to break than using a flathead on the clip ends. Just keep in mind that sometimes they can still break due to age and material. Go slow and don’t force it. -get a good quality thermal paste and be sure you’re applying the correct amount. -as for cleaning off the old I personally like the ArtiClean 1 + 2 package but there are other ways. That’s just my preference.

I believe @Bowlsnapper is referring to @Dtomcat18 PicoProm which is far more simple to use for reading and writing the eeprom image. It uses the lpc port either via a pogo pin adapter or via a header soldered in to the lpc. The eeprom is stored on sd card when read and you can also write a bin file from the sd card to the eeprom. Very fast and plug and play. I think that’s what he was referring to but correct me if I’m wrong, Bowl.

No. It won’t do anything permanent but it’ll give you an Error 6 when you try and boot if they don’t match. Other than that you should be fine though.

Exactly. Plus you know what I said a while back…if you can set master or slave manually then do it rather than trusting a cable. (That goes for all electronics.) Just had to say it again. Lol. Not really applicable to modern day stuff but still.

The blue end should be going in the hdd. Wasn’t sure if that’s what you meant or if you were referring to the motherboard. The cable basically goes in backwards to how you would put it in a pc.

Here are some as well: https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Drive-Replacement-Drives-Stuck/dp/B079VQCYSM These work just fine on all but the thompson drives. It says 360 but they work with the aforementioned og Xbox drives. As for the ide cable I’ve used the one you linked many times and never had any issues with them. If it’s the 24” Manhattan cable anyway. You have to do some cable origami with all of them but that one has worked for me a lot.

Indeed. I’ve never had much luck with boiling them. I just replace them. Though for those bigger thompson belts (which I usually don’t have many spares on hand) I’ll at least give the boiling methods a shot. Lol.

Yeah you’ll still most likely need a new belt. The bezel being the front facing piece on the dvd drive that says Xbox. Looked like it was missing in the picture.

That’s pretty dirty just from what I can see without zooming in. Lol. Guessing the bezel was broken when they tried to force it open. Slightly before they threw it out on the side of the road. SMH.

Most likely yeah. Lol. Sadly I’ve run in to a few that bad as well and the drives were just as dirty. Not sure how it was possible for them to get that dirty. Lol

@Thairanny Agreed on the hgst drives. I’ve seen a few dead or almost dead WD drives but it tends to be rare.

Enterprise level tend to be beefier by design for their normal applications. (Denser magnetic media, heavier actuator magnets, anti vibration hardware, etc). That being said they really shouldn’t be much louder than any other 7200rpm drive. In the case of the Xbox it could, in some cases, just be case (smaller design than say a rack mount server) or maybe the hdd spin is sometime rattling the plastic hdd tray or top rf shield. Just speculation of course. I’ve never run across one in a server or even a smaller NAS box that was much (if any) louder than say a WD Black hdd. Honestly some of the older 5400rpm hdds made more noise at times. Lol Edit: They can be louder on initial spin up if staggered spin up isn’t enabled if I recall correctly. Ssu is supposed to help with the initial power draw as well but not necessarily applicable in the case of the Xbox. Regardless it really shouldn’t be any louder than normal even if it was a bit loud on initial spin up.

No it doesn’t have to be on. If the paper clip isn’t working it’s best, in my experience anyway, to just take the case off the dvd drive and see what’s up. You can open the drive tray manually inside.

You’ll probably just have to open that dvd up and clean it out. I’ve seen them so dirty and with drive belts on their last leg that they wouldn’t budge until I cracked the drive open and cleaned up/replaced the belt. Once you’re in it you should be able to open the tray manually with the slide.

True and are usually the highest priced as well. Lol. I know they can be purchased at a reduced price when reconditioned. I’m just personally not a fan of the reconditioned. To each his own though. If you’re not running 24/7 with it and constant heavy loads I think the enterprise drives are overkill. The WD Black 7200rpm or similar styles by other manufacturers would suffice for the original Xbox. If I was setting up a nas, san, some server with a raid array, or any server I knew was going to have high data usage most of the time I’d definitely spring for the enterprise level hdd as they’re definitely made with that in mind and running non stop. That’s just my opinion on the matter though. For the og Xbox you could also ditch mechanical hdds altogether and go the ssd route but that can also be pricey (at the moment) for quality solid state drives even though prices are coming down. All in all it really just comes down to personal preference, how much it’s going to be used, and how much you want to spend. I definitely wouldn’t cheap out on an Xbox hdd but at the same time you don’t have to shoot the moon as it were. Hell the hdds that came in the og Xbox were nothing special really and were consumer level hdds. Lol. Edit: Also enterprise level hdds can often times have a higher power draw than regular hdds. Forgot to mention that before.

Could just need the drive belt replaced and almost guaranteed a thorough cleaning inside. Might still be a good dvd drive if you ever feel like messing around with it.

That’s weird about the Phillips in the 1.6. I mean it tracks with us thinking there’s something flawed on that halo mobo but I’d still love to know what that was. Lol. As to the dvd swap do you recall the drive type that was in the 1.6? There’s one that doesn’t play well with the startech adapters. I want to say it’s the Samsung DVDs. Anyway, that’s cool you were able to get the other to work and the games. I’d be curious if the hdd ready version of Stubbs would now work on the 1.6 since it didn’t on the halo box. I still can’t believe that 1.6 was just thrown out on the road dude. Lol. Hold on to the halo box. You might come across a 1.0-1.14 mobo you could throw in there. If not though you can probably guarantee someone will buy that case from you at some point.

I looked back on order sheets (since they were upgrades people wanted rather than my personal and they supplied their own drives in these particular cases) the 5400rpm were CMR as I thought. I had others but they were the 7200 rpm BX model you listed. I’ve got a 2Tb WD black in my personal. If I was going to 4TB I’d probably stick with the black 7200 FZBX model you mention about over the Blue 5400rpm. It’ll cost more but I think at that size you’d end up noticing a performance decrease. I can’t say for certain as I’ve never used anything higher than 2Tb 5400rpm in this application. Usually if I was going over 2Tb in anything (pc, Xbox, ps, etc) I’d opt for the highest rpm. Sometimes even over 1tb depending on what it was being used for.

That would be great but I’m also unaware of a way to make that function. I’d start with caps and resistor arrays if I was him. Those work well once you get the potentiometer set to spec. The problem right now is finding one. Granted I haven’t looked in about six months but every place seemed to be out of stock and what few said they had them in stock seemed sketchy. Maybe they’re back in circulation now though.

Agreed. Like you said I’d just run it as an application rather than go through the headache of dual boot. I’m assuming they’re wanting to run insignia otherwise why bother with the stock dash.

Yes. It changes it to orange after the softmod. That’s the default color but it can be changed. I haven’t done it in a while but I know it’s an option in the nkpatcher application that’s installed with the softmod. Edit: My bad. Just realized @Rocky5 already answered the question.

Indeed it does. Lol. Guess I was incorrect. Maybe it’s just the newer versions of the 2Tb then. I know I’ve seen a bunch recently that were only available at 5400. That does make me feel better since I could’ve sworn some of the 2Tb Blues I bought six months ago were 7200rpm. I knew I wasn’t imagining that. Lol