FrostyMaGee
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Posts
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Posts posted by FrostyMaGee
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24 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:
I may have one for you. Shall I take a photo?
Might as well. I can say this from having looked around to try and find one for @lopenator The deltas don’t seem to have the correct replacement part. Additionally it doesn’t look like all the foxlinks do either. The foxlink rev B might but I’m not sure. The type Lopenator has is a foxlink FTPS-0001 Rev C just in case anyone has that specific model psu.
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@Raidernick I forgot to mention the angled tip. Good call!
@Mittyoz Basically any of the three types of tips mentioned will work. It will all come down to comfort level and what works best for you.
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10 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:
Yes sir. A little practice and it becomes second nature. Magnification is essential though. A few spare resistor wouldn't hurt either
True. If you had a little junk PCB around to practice on first that would be beneficial. I had a baptism by fire with it back in the first year of college and had to learn on the actual motherboard that needed repair. Lol
It also occurs to me that we have other members on the forum that live in Australia. Worse comes to worse one of them might be able to assist with the replacement of that resistor if possible.
Edit: Remember it doesn’t have to look perfect on the first one you do. Lol. It just needs to connect with no shorts.
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3 minutes ago, Mittyoz said:
^Melbourne
It's the same as this on Amazon: NFHK SATA Disk to IDE/PATA 40Pin Motherboard Converter Adapter PCBA for Desktop & 2.5 3.5" Hard Disk Drive : Amazon.com.au: Computers
Like I have to use my phone to look at it, it's that tiny. Basically how I soldered the pinheader onto the xbox was I mounted my phone on a gimble I have, and carefully aimed/zoomed in on the spot so that I could see what I was doing. Even with my glasses on I can barely see what I'm doing
Even if I had the right resistor, I think my soldering iron is a bit big for the job.
It’s much easier with a hot air rework station but it can be done with a soldering iron and a small chisel tip (I preferred this one when I had the room) or conical tip. That’s how we used to do it back in old laptop hardware repair days. You can usually heat up both sides and kind of push the resistor off or use tweezers in tandem with the iron. After that you can try placing the new one on with tweezers and using any remaining solder on the pads. Another route is to clean the pads off then use flux and the pre-tinned areas of the resistor to do a dry tack then come back with a little solder to make it nice. I would highly suggest a magnifier or at least a pair of wearable magnifying glasses though. Much easier. When I was in my 20s I could do it without those but no longer. Lol. It looks more daunting than it is though. If you’ve done any soldering before there will be a small learning curve but you should be able to get it in a few tries.
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2 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:
Well, the startech can do UDMA 6, but 5 is still pretty damn good.
Also the cost of a resistor compared to the cost of a new adapter plus shipping to Australia. I figured I’d mention it as something to try since Raidernick had success with it.
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Alternatively you could also try this with the adapter that @Raidernick posted yesterday that might make the cheap sata adapter function properly. He has a different branded adapter but they look to be built the same. If it worked it would save you some money.
“ got more help from the cerbios discord. A user there told me that adding a 100ohm resistor to the R4 pad on this adapter will fix not only the speed but also the boot times. I added this resistor and the xbox now boots instantly(same as the startech) and UDMA5 works at full speed now (same as the startech). That makes these adapters basically as good as the startech with some very basic modification.”
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36 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:
If you are attempting to softmod, PLEASE don't. This basically IS the softmod savegame exploit, but uses it to achieve a different end. You have no need to softmod at all. Drag these onto the flash drive with the adapter to hook it up. Then go into the MS dash and copy over the save for the game you are using for the exploit. Then copy over the softmod tool in the same manner. It'll be in there
Should take about 20 seconds to copy over to the HDD. then restart the console and run the game. I use splinter cell. I have the full instructions on another HDD, but the full package has been removed by @sweetdarkdestiny, unfortunately. There are instructions for each game, but using splinter cell you just continue game, select linux, and then the exploit starts. I think in any game you just load the save in-game and the exploit starts.
No softmod.
A quick note on the flash drive and adapter…I’ve found best practice is to hook these up to a controller port of your choosing before you power on the Xbox. It basically eliminates the issue that happens with some usbs where the Xbox will corrupt usb data when it’s plugged in while already on. It doesn’t happen all the time but is annoying when it does. Anyway, just thought I’d mention it.
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3 hours ago, Raidernick said:
I got more help from the cerbios discord. A user there told me that adding a 100ohm resistor to the R4 pad on this adapter will fix not only the speed but also the boot times. I added this resistor and the xbox now boots instantly(same as the startech) and UDMA5 works at full speed now (same as the startech). That makes these adapters basically as good as the startech with some very basic modification.
That’s cool and definitely worth playing around with for those of us that don’t mind solder work.
Thanks for sharing the info! I love the startechs but not the price per unit. If I could get the same use out of a cheaper unit with an extremely easy mod that would be nice. I’ll definitely have to try that out.
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41 minutes ago, Mittyoz said:
So chip arrived, here it is installed. My soldering angst was all for nought as it worked first go. Installed OpenXenium - Imgur so my other xecuter definitely had some issue. Wonder if there's a way to rescue it.
Even though I didn't order it, this OpenXenium came with a cheapo IDE/Sata Adapter and an 80 wire IDE cable!
So I used XBoxHDM to create a drive using an old 128GB SSD I have laying around.
Via the Xenium FTP server, I can see files on the drive, and copy files to it no problems when plugged in with the adapter I have. So it does appear to be working, at least to some degree.
However no matter what Bios I try, it won't boot to the dash, and I also can't even boot from a burnt DVD, at least not this way.
What does work is that I used Sweet's kindly provided files to rebuild the C/E partitions on the Stock Drive (and blow away the soft mod), which now boots again. Once in the dashboard I can boot into a burnt disc.
Fully prepared that this cheap IDE/Sata adapter might be the issue. I also have some other drives I can try, so might give a couple of those a go.
Definitely in a better place than I was the other day
Glad to hear the c and e rebuild remedied one of the issues as we’d hoped.
Always nice when that happens!
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Plus once you replaced the hdd you can take the problem drive out and hit it with a bat like the printer in Office Space. Lol. Or you can take the platters out and use them as a mirror or something.
I always save the magnets out of the old mechanical drives. They come in handy.
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1 minute ago, Bowlsnapper said:
Yeah, the HDD clicks like it's reading something every second or so when the light turns orange and the exploit is loaded. Just sits at a black screen. Although, if the orange light indicates that the exploit was loaded, does that only mean that the BFM loaded but not necessarily the dash? I'm wondering if updating the fonts will make a difference if they are already serving their purpose as part of the boot process and it is being indicated...
Given that info I feel like the hdd def needs to be replaced. It’s not dead yet but sounds like it’s on it’s way out. Probably bad sectors as well.
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5 minutes ago, MadMartigan said:
My vote is always for the chip. You mentioned “random groups of clicking”. Are they from the HDD? If FTP’ing clean files doesn’t fix it, the offer for a replacement drive is still on the table.
That makes me wonder if the issue was corruption from a failing hdd. Clicking is always a bad sign. Lol. As you said clean files won’t fix that issue.
Edit: loud clicking at least. Lol
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46 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:
There is a way to remove softmod files and install them, but I'm not sure if it's worth it to try to figure out what combination of things will save this HDD and keep a softmod... Should I just chip it and call it a day?
I have splinter cell and can load the TSOP kit, but the thought of saving a softmod gives me a headache.
the disc is loading up on boot now... Okay cool... Not sure what to do with that, though. Lol. L, lt and start seem to either IGR or load a backup dash and it runs the same. Random groups of clicking every second. I am going to assume that the the fonts are the wrong version and that this will not work. I am not sure which installer is on the TSOP kit, but if this is the cause, it did not automatically install the fonts and it needed to be done manually first. I have no idea. Anyway. Time to update the picoprom!
wait... I just realized I can FTP with the installer disc and that I can copy over the correct fonts file... Hmmm
You could also grab the eeprom since ftp is up.
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7 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:
I'm still stuck on updating the picoprom. I'm about to do it. Just cleaning my room/laboratory. Lol. I can't run an installer so I can't wipe out anything on the HDD. I will probably rebuild the LPC and chip it, since I have 7 Xblasts in my drawer. Lol.
Oh ok. Lol. Well if you end up doing let me know. I feel like data corruption was the issue with that one. It is tempting to just chip it since you have the xblasts anyway. Lol.
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@Bowlsnapper did you end up restoring c and e or just replacing dashboard files in case of data corruption? Or did you just decide to put a chip in it?
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24 minutes ago, Fringle said:
It will. Since it's just a softmod it only modifies the files on the HDD so restoring the stock files and partitions will bring it back to a working state.
If the eeprom is retrieved technically he could also use the old ndure 3.0 softmod method and just build the hdd already softmodded with FatXplorer. I've done this so I could get multiple xboxes to a state where I could flash the tsop without a game save exploit and then rebuilt the HDD's again without the softmod to work with the tsop. It's a bit of work but it does indeed work if all else fails.
Oh yeah I’ve done it on many hdds before as well.
I’m just curious if that’s the only issue. My assumption is that’s the only problem going on but as we’ve all run in to before….og Xboxes can be finicky sometimes. Lol. Hopefully it’ll be cut and dry though. I hadn’t even thought about that with the old ndure but yeah that would work too. Good call if all else fails!
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Just now, MadMartigan said:
Now that could work
That was my thinking.
A quick pop on the lpc with the pogo adapter and he’s got the eeprom. I’m really just curious if it would remedy the issue replacing those hdd files or partitions. Obviously the hard mod would but I kinda want to know what would fix the software side. It would dig at me not to find out. Lol
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Just now, MadMartigan said:
Not possible without the eeprom
Bowl has one of @Dtomcat18 picoprom readers though so he could extract the eeprom that way. At least I was thinking he had one.
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4 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:
That's what I suggested to him (@Mittyoz) via PM... Didn't hear back.
I avoid softmodding but it is still done, so I want to understand it so that I am able to troubleshoot. I will probably end up chipping this thing and doing my first 1.6 RAM upgrade with it.
What about just popping the hdd out and restoring C and E with fatxplorer or Xboxhdm like we’d talked about with mittys similar problem? Or using those and just copy dashboard files over to see if anything happened? I swear it has to be something simple. I’m still leaning toward data corruption by the dvd drive during softmod or maybe on the burned disc itself (not the program of the course).
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10 minutes ago, MadMartigan said:
Not sure about any of that. Amuse me and try to install a dash from an install disc and see what happens. If there is no dash, you will get a black screen on boot.
Agreed on trying a dash install. I would be curious to see if it changed anything. I feel like either there isn’t a dash it can find or something has possibly gotten corrupt or just not loading for whatever reason. It would def be a good test.
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As others have said as well…many thanks for all your projects and contributions sir! I have used them for a good while now and have always been happy and grateful. Keep up the great work and thank you again.
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3 minutes ago, lopenator said:
yea everything else is good. Just need the inductor and the PSU will be good as new. it's even recapped.
Cool.
I didn’t realize you’d recapped it already as well. Maybe we can find that part. I’ve found a compatible psu in some of my parts stuff but it’s a delta and not a foxlink. So far that’s the only 1.0/1.1 psu I’ve run across but I’m still looking through stuff.
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9 hours ago, lopenator said:
no worries dude. thanks for the help
Out of curiosity have you tried reflowing all the joints around that transformer, plug, etc? I was just trying to think of some other possibilities while I’m looking around for a replacement.
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6 hours ago, lopenator said:
no worries dude. thanks for the help
You may already have this/checked these and it’s not for the part you’re looking for (still looking on that one) but I thought it might be a good reference if someone else was looking at this. The caps list for that rev C foxlink psu.
C3 680uF 200v
C6 100uF 25v
C10 100uF 25v
C15 47uF 25v
C17 1000uF 16v
C18 2200uF 10v
C19 1200uF 6.3v
C20 1200uF 6.3v
C21 1000uF 10v
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
For parts 1.0/1.1 PSU
in Wanted
Posted
That’s what I said as well. Lol. I’ve been able to find nothing on it spec wise. There seems to be a dearth of information about the inductors. It has to be out there somewhere.