FrostyMaGee

Plus once you replaced the hdd you can take the problem drive out and hit it with a bat like the printer in Office Space. Lol. Or you can take the platters out and use them as a mirror or something. I always save the magnets out of the old mechanical drives. They come in handy.

Given that info I feel like the hdd def needs to be replaced. It’s not dead yet but sounds like it’s on it’s way out. Probably bad sectors as well.

That makes me wonder if the issue was corruption from a failing hdd. Clicking is always a bad sign. Lol. As you said clean files won’t fix that issue. Edit: loud clicking at least. Lol

You could also grab the eeprom since ftp is up.

Oh ok. Lol. Well if you end up doing let me know. I feel like data corruption was the issue with that one. It is tempting to just chip it since you have the xblasts anyway. Lol.

@Bowlsnapper did you end up restoring c and e or just replacing dashboard files in case of data corruption? Or did you just decide to put a chip in it?

Oh yeah I’ve done it on many hdds before as well. I’m just curious if that’s the only issue. My assumption is that’s the only problem going on but as we’ve all run in to before….og Xboxes can be finicky sometimes. Lol. Hopefully it’ll be cut and dry though. I hadn’t even thought about that with the old ndure but yeah that would work too. Good call if all else fails!

That was my thinking. A quick pop on the lpc with the pogo adapter and he’s got the eeprom. I’m really just curious if it would remedy the issue replacing those hdd files or partitions. Obviously the hard mod would but I kinda want to know what would fix the software side. It would dig at me not to find out. Lol

Bowl has one of @Dtomcat18 picoprom readers though so he could extract the eeprom that way. At least I was thinking he had one.

What about just popping the hdd out and restoring C and E with fatxplorer or Xboxhdm like we’d talked about with mittys similar problem? Or using those and just copy dashboard files over to see if anything happened? I swear it has to be something simple. I’m still leaning toward data corruption by the dvd drive during softmod or maybe on the burned disc itself (not the program of the course).

Agreed on trying a dash install. I would be curious to see if it changed anything. I feel like either there isn’t a dash it can find or something has possibly gotten corrupt or just not loading for whatever reason. It would def be a good test.

As others have said as well…many thanks for all your projects and contributions sir! I have used them for a good while now and have always been happy and grateful. Keep up the great work and thank you again.

Cool. I didn’t realize you’d recapped it already as well. Maybe we can find that part. I’ve found a compatible psu in some of my parts stuff but it’s a delta and not a foxlink. So far that’s the only 1.0/1.1 psu I’ve run across but I’m still looking through stuff.

Out of curiosity have you tried reflowing all the joints around that transformer, plug, etc? I was just trying to think of some other possibilities while I’m looking around for a replacement.

You may already have this/checked these and it’s not for the part you’re looking for (still looking on that one) but I thought it might be a good reference if someone else was looking at this. The caps list for that rev C foxlink psu. C3 680uF 200v C6 100uF 25v C10 100uF 25v C15 47uF 25v C17 1000uF 16v C18 2200uF 10v C19 1200uF 6.3v C20 1200uF 6.3v C21 1000uF 10v

Ah ok. My bad. I’ll look around for that too and see if anything turns up or if I have a parts 1.0 psu.

I’m not 100 percent positive but I think this is the fuse. It appears to be the same manufacturer, it’s 4A, 250v, radial leaded, slow blow fuse, and it’s the 382 series. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/littelfuse-inc./38214000000/3306886?utm_adgroup=General&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMax Shopping_Product_Zombie SKUs&utm_term=&utm_content=General&utm_id=go_cmp-17815035045_adg-_ad-__dev-t_ext-_prd-3306886_sig-EAIaIQobChMIqPa2iYfmggMVdp5aBR1wegCVEBwYAyABEgKRIPD_BwE&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADrbLlgD_ELLgrItXk15nzBmKSB4d&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqPa2iYfmggMVdp5aBR1wegCVEBwYAyABEgKRIPD_BwE Here is the data sheet on the 382 series time lag fuses as well. https://www.digikey.com/en/htmldatasheets/production/526913/0/0/1/382-series-datasheet

That sucks. Is the picture with the red cap component the piece you’re looking for? I was thinking it was but wanted to make sure. If so I’ll look around as well. I’ll also check and see if I have any 1.0/1.1 parts PSUs around.

@lopenator did you ever have any luck finding that replacement part for the PSU?

I don’t recall the exact price of the super cap replacements but they were under a dollar each from mouser and Digikey last I looked. Maybe like .89 cents or something. I stopped bothering replacing them on anything lower than the 1.6s since they didn’t have to be there. I used to keep some on hand for the 1.6s just in case. Now I just order them as needed since I’m usually buying a larger order of 3300uf, etc caps from one of those places at a pretty regular interval anyway.

I couldn’t tell for sure if the pads were gone on a few of those or if they just had a lot of detritus obscuring them. It will definitely be easier to judge once it’s cleaned up. I’m afraid a couple are gone/damaged though. That doesn’t mean it’s not salvageable of course but it would take some additional work and possible reapplication of solder mask in a few areas depending on the damage underneath. I’m curious if the other side of the lpc sustained any noticeable damage. i swear it looks like half the pads are gone though. Hope that’s not the case but that’s just the first impression for me.

Wow. I don’t know for sure. I’d like to see what it looks like after you scrubbed it with some 99 percent isopropyl alcohol. I’m worried about a couple of those pads too. It’s worth a shot though.

Those are definitely useful files to have that @sweetdarkdestiny linked. Do you have a usb sata adapter for your computer? If so you could try building a drive with one of the sata hdds you have sitting around. Though you’d still have to wait for the sata to ide adapter and cable for the Xbox to test it out. Having the ability to build the sata hdd on your computer would still come in handy in case you’re unable to build it via the console. Hope you have luck with it and by all means keep us updated.

Thanks. Yeah it might not be the cause but it would at least eliminate a possible cause. With a softmod he would see the flubber screen with the Xbox logo and then it’s supposed to load the soft mod screen (in this case rocky5). I think it’s trying to since the light is turning orange but something is not loading correctly. That’s why I thought the rebuild be a good test just to see if you could get past that issue. It’s a moot point currently since he can’t hook it up to his comp to try a rebuild though. I wonder if a hdd rebuild would work for yours though Bowl? I May have missed where you already tried that though. If so my bad.

Just as a quick note on the sata adapter…you will also need an 80 wire 40 pin ide cable to replace the stock ide cable otherwise you’ll run in to problems. Apologies if you already knew that or had already mentioned purchasing one in tandem with the adapter. Just wanted to mention in case you didn’t so you could avoid that issue as not having one will cause an error as well. If you have the ability to take out your current hdd and hook it up to your computer you could try running fatxplorer or Xboxhdm to rebuild it since you said you already have the eeprom backup. That would be a good test to see if rebuilding the current drive via external means solves your issue or changes anything. Just a thought anyway.