Fringle
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Everything posted by Fringle
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1.0 and 1.1 both have a 1mb tsop. So yes, those are the only ones capable of splitting the tsop using the wire trick. I think it's also possible to do this with a certain modchip but I'm not sure which one or the procedure.
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If this were to work you would need to install a switch on the Tsop vcc pin or something to that effect so only one tsop can be active at a time. You would boot up with the known working tsop enabled, flip the switch so the second tsop was enabled and proceed to write it. If both tsops were powered at the same time I can see the xbox getting confused and not knowing which one to use and still not boot. To do this though you would need to lift the vcc pin first on the currently soldered tsop as well. On another note, is the xbox fragging? If so have you attempted the 3 wire trick in an attempt to boot from a different tsop bank? I recently was able to recover from a corrupted tsop with this method.
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Not a 100% certain since I haven't played this game in a long time but I'm thinking either using the ISO or CCI image rather than extracting the files should be able to get past this.
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Just grab yourself a cheap rp2040 or pico and dump the eeprom so you can either null the hdd key or build an hdd with FatXplorer and use the eeprom to lock the drive. If you do this and happen to get either a pico or a waveshare rp 2040 zero and don't want to go through the hassle of making the uf2 file yourself just let me know and I can send you mine and let you know which pins to use. It's only a 3 wire install and takes less than 5 seconds to dump with the Arduinoprom script.
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If you have a spare rp pico or 2040 board laying around you can use Arduinoprom and use it to snag your eeprom so you can create a softmodded hdd with FatXpolorer that will allow you to at least boot up and flash your tsop. This is how I was able to tsop 3 old xboxes without any save game exploit. Converting the Arduino files for the pico and determining which pins to use can be a bit of a pain though.
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Laser module not dropping enough when ejecting, spindle too high.
Fringle replied to Bowlsnapper's topic in Repair
I just dealt with the reverse of this with an Xbox 360 drive. When the tray was in, the deck wouldn't raise. Turned out a track on the underside of the tray somehow got damaged so the closing mechanism wouldn't catch properly. If you can pull the tray all the way off and verify that the closing mechanism didn't come off the track. Or just pulling it off and reseating may be all that you need to do. -
Good job. Nice to see it finally work out for ya.
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It all could still happen yet. haha Never know. When ever I enabled option 0 or 1 in the cerbios.ini file it would give me an error 13 if the DVD rom was connected to power. I assume due to the bad data cable that it couldn't actually detect it thus returning the error. Seems like the overclock was doing something though. I mean it corrupted my tsop and seemed to do something to your DVD drive. Seems strange that those would be side effects of overriding overclocking values and rather than just ignoring them it breaks the system.
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Got the replacement cable today and the DVD drive once again functions like it should. Ram should be here next week so should be fun and frustrating to have a go at that. Grabbed 10 pieces just in case I get a few defective ones.
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Unable to edit post but my bad, I miscounted, the via is the one beside where I circled. Still attach to same resistor but other side of it.
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Only way they're gonna get on the via and still be able to attach the Ram is using 38 AWG copper wire or smaller. It would be much easier to go to the resistor assuming they don't knock that off too.
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Via for that pad is under the ram, I've circled it in yellow. You might be able to get a way with wiring a jumper wire to R6B8, also circled in yellow.
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It's doesn't make much sense that's for sure. Maybe if you were attempting to update the firmware on the drive or something, unless it was also sending higher than normal current or voltages to compensate for a loss somewhere else along the bus lines. Did you also try the drive in another Xbox to see if it behaves normally there?
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I'd have to assume it's due to the overclocked bus speed and the fact that it's running out of spec causes data to be corrupted. Did you try flashing back a non overclocked bios? Maybe this would sort it out if it has to do with corruption within the bios itself. On another note the seller I bought the IDE cable from has agreed to send me a replacement. Hopefully it works to sort out the DVD problems with the startech adapter.
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Damn, this makes me nervous to try. haha I ordered new Ram though since I broke one of the legs off a chip when removing them. Going to first try it on the board I removed them from and if I can make it boot again I'll give it a go on another one.
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Yep, this is the only method of flashing the Sharp that works for me, and requires burning the bios to a second disc: As for the overclock, I'm not sure why it's not working. It's most like to do with the software and the specific coding of the bios.
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I did and it's still the same. Oh well. At least I have another way to flash the Sharp. Just annoying that I have to burn a new disc every time. I'll call it a safety feature as it will make me question if I really want to flash it. haha
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Didn't even think of that even though I did cut off a female end and stuck it in the 1.1 to see if one of my usb keyboards would work for Xblast but didn't have any luck. But rather then cut apart my controller cable I just took one of the controller ports I pulled from that system and spliced a male USB A port on to it. The VID and PID are both FFFF. Now to figure out how to add that to Xblast if the source is available. haha Edit: I actually found it and the VID/PID are already in there but the controller doesn't seem to work with it.
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I didn't install too many hard mods back in the day. Did a few but at the time my soldering skills weren't all that good. The first time I really touched an iron was to install a modchip for someone and while it worked I did a pretty terrible job. I've come along way since then though. It's possible that we may have crossed paths before then as I was also over on those forums as well as others. It's on the list. I think it's because the 3rd party controllers don't share the same device/vendor id as the branded controllers and the way the driver is coded. I'm sure it could be implemented but I don't even have an adapter to hook the controller up to my pc to get the id's.
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Hahaha, no worries. I was into the Xbox quite a bit from 2004-2007. I like to learn the hard way so to speak to get myself out of jams. The first Xbox I had was a 1.6 that I soft modded and wiped the C partition not knowing what the hell I was doing. Learned the how to recover from that with xboxhdm and a backup I forgot I made since I had no exploitable games. I may order some switches for the tsop before I do anymore overclocking just so it's easier to recover should that happen again. It also seems to have corrupted my xbmc dashboard on one of my drives since it now throws an error 21 when I attempt to boot that drive. Must have just been pushing this little beast too much.
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I bridged a18, a19 and 3.3v. Got the console to boot off bank 4. Removed the bridge and did a 1mb flash. The console is now back to a working state without any wires.
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It's alive. Didn't even have to flash it but will with a 1mb bios to see if it will boot without wires. Edit: No more wires. It's back to booting normally after flashing with 1mb bios. Wow, that was a little learning experience.
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It's a 1.0 with a 1mb tsop. Xblast might not work for me since I don't have a genuine controller. I know when I attempted to use Xblast OS to flash the 1.1 with a sharp it wouldn't work due to my controller not being detected. But maybe it's something completely different that will work. I feel like if I can get this thing to boot from one of the tsop banks, I could unbridge the wires before I flash and make the full tsop writable again, but I may be wrong on that one. It's more of an experiment now to see if I can revive it. If it's gone, it's gone. Not a huge loss if so. Damn. Ah well. I've read there are a few out there but most of them are fakes.
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Sweet and according to the comments it's flashable I'm going to see if maybe I can recover it blindly first. It does appear to be booting and if I can get the right sequence of button presses while booting the Cerbios flashing disc I should be able to get it working again. Might try later this evening and solder the wires in place to maybe see if I can get it to output some video again before attempting to flash it blind.
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Yeah be careful with the tsop flashing the overclocked bios. Pretty sure this one is a corrupted tsop so going to fit it with a mod chip eventually rather than scrap it for parts. If I provide both vias a19 and a18 to 3.3v it no longer frags but I don't get any video output. I can tell it is somewhat working but just tapped the wires in place since I didn't want to drag out my iron. The cpu and gpu start to heat up so I'm pretty sure it's still working to some extent and would indicate that the tsop has been corrupted. Edit: Now where can I find a decent modchip for around 10-20 dollars Canadian. haha
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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48