UltimateMe
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Posts posted by UltimateMe
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3 hours ago, Acidmank said:
What do you mean green disks? ( where it could have some issue? )
Green disks are powersaving disks. Like the WD Green (those are discontinued and now exists as SSD and NVMe, but there are still a lot to find), Seagate Green and other powersaving disk that spins around 5900RPM or fluctuate between 5400, 5900, 7200 RPM.
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You could better look for something like this one, if you want a cheap one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255483009090?hash=item3b7bf95842:g:ZNAAAOSwQ39iVAVM
This one is confirmed working, I use it often for the cheaper mods. The Startech is a bit faster, but more than double the money of this one. Only when using "green" disks it could have some issues, where the Startech is better. Using normal disks the cheaper one is working like a charm.
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15 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said:
Why would the tray move in a way that scratches the disc... In some places where it doesn't even touch it. The tray moves open and closed...
Again you didn`t read the whole statement I made. As I mentioned: the tray moves, the laser assembly moves. Every movement, if it's the tray opening and closing or the laser going back an forth, will cause particles going everywhere. So again: the laser is giving circular scratches, dust and other rubbish causes all kind of scratches. When the laser moves from the back to the front and there is rubbish in between it would cause scratches more from the outside to the inside of the disk, which is the case here, looking at the photo's. A disc is never 100% stable in its drive and always moves a little bit.
So do you have those kinds of scratches? Thoroughly clean your drive inside. -
9 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said:
The laser assembly is moving, yes, but that should cause circular patterns at that point, once the disc is all the way in the drive and mounted to the spindle.
Maybe read again what I actually wrote
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4 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said:
Moving parts should not be making contact in a way that would cause frictional damage in the first place...
Rubbish will not always stay where you think it stays. When the laser is moving, the tray is moving, every movement can cause issues when there is rubbish around there. So when the scratches are not circular, clean everything at the max and check again.
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When I see the pictures one of the things came in mind, is cleaning the surrounding area very good. It looks like it isn`t clean around the moving parts.
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You can open the Xbox very clean, when you take some time. The serial number label is no issue, the other label is a security seal, but also with some time you can extract the part to recover the screw hole as clean as possible. The previous owner of mine has chosen the quick way and screwed down through the labels. Don`t like that.
And you have to open it, because there is a risk the caps around the CPU are blown and the clock cap is leaking. Doing nothing will result in an non working Xbox with trace rot and a hell of a job to repair. So open it, replace leaking caps, clean everything and enjoy the console,
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It's working now, so that is very nice. Now flashed wit EvoM8plus, but going for Cerbios to play games without the need for other stuff to get it running.
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2 hours ago, trencherfield said:
Thank you. Searched for a while but couldn`t find anything. When you search for Duo-X, most of the information is about the X2 or X3 versions. Will give this a shot.
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12 hours ago, Bgsmods59 said:
the bank selector is missing on the pcb. The little eproom looks swollen in the photo. it is the case or not?
It's not swollen. It's the light and a bit of junk sticking on it. It's not an Duo X2 and therefore there is no bank selector if I remember correct. The layout of that part is also different.
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When do this manually I discovered several times that is doesn`t work. Use the EEPROM. Use the altered eeprom.bin file to lock the drive and don`t do this manually. I tried it a few times and it gave me headaches. After using the eeprom.bin for locking and unlocking with xboxHDM all the trouble was solved.
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On 7/20/2023 at 1:04 AM, SS_Dave said:
I have seen 2 like this in the last 6 months
Now I just replace the clock cap in the 1.6 boards with a 220ohm resistor.
Cheers
SS Dave
Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
At this moment I remove the clock cap from 1.6 boards (as they indeed commonly are leaking, hidden under the legs) and replace them with a new super condensator (which the clock cap is). So it will be good again for 10+ years. Using a 220ohm resistor is also an idea. Will keep that one in mind. Besides of that I'm checking my consoles internals every 3 to 4 years.
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Hi,
I've found a Xbox with a Duo-X modchip installed. When booting it says Executer2 with the blue logo. It doesn`t recognize all the partitions on my 500GB S-ATA harddrive, so I would like to flash the BIOS.I tried flashing through the EvoX dashboard and also with Xblast OS, but both aren`t working (I tried Cerbios and M8plus). Normally I can flash almost everything through Xblast. In the EvoX dashboard it says the Flash isn`t writeable (Manufacturers ID 09, Device ID 00). I can`t find anything regarding write protection. From the info the current kernel version is 1.00.4979.67
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Change the drive belt. When it's worn out, it wouldn`t close the drive far enough, which causes to eject it. Sometimes it could also be caused by a lot of junk inside the drive.
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Someone gave me an Xbox with an Xecuter2 modchip and the Avalaunch dashboard. It uses Px HD Loader for playing games.
I searched around and couldn`t find how to get my iso's / xiso's working (converted) for use with Px HD Loader. The DVD drive isn`t working and the only option in the dashboard seems to be loading / converting from CD / DVD. The Xbox contains and 200GB IDE drive, so I can`t hook it up to my PC, wipe the stuff with Fatxplorer and start over.
Any suggestions how to convert? Then I can upload my xiso's through FTP and then convert them on the Xbox.
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On 6/9/2023 at 5:00 PM, Bowlsnapper said:
This is what I was wondering. Thank you for the confirmation. What is the value of the capacitor?
I've missed that question, but I bought a 2.5v 1F super condensator in this case from Eaton.
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Besides the rest (and the information provided about XBlast), I've prepared the other Aladdin chips I have. The result: 2 working fine and 2 are giving the frag. So my soldering was good enough at that point.
Will look into XBlast in more detail. For me it's just jiggling around and have fun with debugging and that kind of things. But enough knowledge to absorb. Where PC's and the Nintendo / Sega consoles have no secrets, there is enough to explore for me regarding the Xbox.
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10 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:
Stop buying 5 dollar chips from Ali Express. You're getting what you pay for. Go to modzville and get an XBlast Aladdin for 28 bucks with shipping.
You're attempting to boot that 1.6 Xbox with a 1.0-1.4 Evox bios. It's not gonna work anyway. Not good for a test.
Boot to XBlastOS with the BETTER Aladdin and flash Cerbios. You'll be set after that. Don't waste any more time.
Or get an XBlast chip from @Dtomcat18 and he'll take care of you. Fuck regular Aladdins. Please hear me.
Just spend the money on a modchip that is worth your time!
Well, when I use the D0 to ground instead of the one on the Aladdin chip, it frags again.
And modzville does not sent to the Netherlands and when they do the shipping costs are more than the chip. A lot of chips you can buy in the Netherlands are also from Ali Express so that wouldn`t solve anything at this moment.
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Well finally back from work, so I re-flowed all the pins of the LPC pinheader, also made the exposed wire thing better. But still fraging, with or without the BT wire.
So, I have a working 1.6 xbox which has an Executer2 chip in it. Replaced that chip with the Aladdin and also that one starts fraging. Solder the wires back to the Executer2 chip and the Xbox is booting again. Placing the Aladdin back in my (I believe 1.4 xbox) and it's also fraging.
Now I used the D0 on the Aladdin chip and no BT connection. The Xbox boots without an issue, but the chip had a led burning, but does nothing.
But it would be strange that all the chips I have should be bad, but I`m out of options at this moment. -
18 hours ago, MadMartigan said:
The chances of the chip being bad are slim and it’s a good sign that the LED works on the chip. Those connections don’t look good at all. As @Bowlsnapper has suggested, it’s highly recommended to use some flux and add just a tiny amount of solder to each connection of the LPC. I recommend doing the opposite to the D0. The solder is a bit globby and a little too much exposed wire. Not entirely sure what gauge wire you’re using, but the smaller the better in that case. Around 30g or smaller makes for an easier connection. Flux can be your best friend on all connections. Take your time!
I used flux, but maybe a bit to much solder on the LPC, because it didn`t work and solder was hard to see. I use 30awg wire. I can remove all the solder and do it again with a tiny amount / small blobs. The wire has multiple small strings in it, instead of solid core, which seems very hard to find here.
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17 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said:
Which Aladdin is that? Have you tried disconnecting BT entirely? Try it. My Aladdin fragged until I got rid of the BT wire and left it alone.
I've read some reviews on Ali and there were positive reactions about this one / seller. I think the XT is double and not specific. I've also one at which I didn`t solder the BT wire and the Xbox also frags, but I will double check the LPC header / reflow them and then I can swap the chips to test. I also read something in one of the topics on this forums that some chips had to be reflashed before they are working.
So enough to check / test, but I'm a few days from home for work, so didn`t have time to reflow or do further testing.
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Will look into it when I've some more time this week. Soldering jobs are not a thing to do in a hurry. Maybe the issue is in the modchip, but that is hard to test out. I've another Aladdin chip to test, but maybe they are both faulty. Hard to know.
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When removing the D0 the Xbox works indeed.
I've tried to make a good photo with the magnifier from the LPC header, ignore the wormy stuff, that's from a cotton swap and I didn`t blow of before taking the photo. Do you mean the top left and the one besided the empty slot that aren`t good? -
29 minutes ago, sweetdarkdestiny said:
As long as you have D0 connectet to ground your xbox will still frag. Reason for that is that, when you link D0 ground the XBox tries to boot from the LPC no matter what.
And watching at the pics make me shiver. The cable on the D0 pad could sort to the near by pads, way to much exposed wire there. And 2 pins on the header seems not soldered very well. They maybe make didn't good contact.
Okay, that D0 remark is a good one. I've used my multi-meter to check for shorts and there isn`t one. You are correct that the part exposed wire could be a bit shorter, but as long there is no shorting I think it will be fine (it's an ecstatic thing and I've some electrical tape under it, when it works I can make it cleaner). Under the magnifier all the LPC pins looks good on solder, but that's why I would be helped by points on the board to measure between with the LPC pins to verify it.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
1.6 Power for about 1 second then nothing
in Repair
Posted
I recognize this behavior when the caps around the CPU are bad. So check them, even when they are very, very lightly bulged, it's an issue.