Raidernick

Yes using andy's speed test utilities xbe. I got it from the xbox-scene discord.

This was last week when I got a fresh install of the artwork installer and did a "find all missing artwork". It changed about half of my applications to Mario64 for the name and pictures. Is this v2.0 not the latest version available through the url downloader on the console? Do I need to get it elsewhere?

Well I can only speak from experience. I've modded over 120 xbox's at this point and every single one I've attached D0 from the aladdin to the D0 point on the board and I've never, ever had a frag issue until recently(and then ONLY on the 1.6s). The new batch of aladdins is crap and since I had the issue on 2 1.6s in a row I've switched to making jafars myself and the issues are gone.

The D0 does work, as long as you connect it to lframe, but it's finicky and may not work on some chips. I've gotten it to work with the crappy clones before and sometimes I can't get the xbox to boot at all and I need to swap the chip out with another. It doesn't really matter though as I've stopped using the aladdin clones altogether and I make my own jafars now and never have that problem anymore.

On the original "real" aladdin chip yes, but none of the clones, lite versions, xblasts, jafars or anything else made these days is that true. In fact, on any "modern" aladdin, including the newer variants you are seeing now on aliexpress with the transistor on them actually have the D0 and L1 traces connected together coming right out of the CPLD. This was not the case on the original versions. So with any of these newer chips you can simply use the D0 pad(some only have this pad available now anyway and did away with all the extra pads). EDIT: It's actually really hard to get a hold of the original "clone" aladdin's these days as websites like ebay/amazon/aliexpress all show pictures of the original ones with the original cloned CPLD code on them, but then when you buy them you end up with that new version with the transistor that you can't reprogram the CPLD of. I believe there are actually posts about that on this forum. For the OP the best bet would just be to buy one of the jafars from ebay/gameroomcustoms or modzvilleusa genie. These have a much higher standard of production and assembly and aren't finicky like all the clone aladdins are now.

I've done rgh3 on around 8 trinity boards using a resistor and have never had an issue with them not working or breaking at a later date. Also there is nothing special about that jrunner it's just the latest version.

hence why i said to attach it to the L1 pad and NOT the D0 pad....on aladdin chips these 2 pads go to different pins on the cpld and L1 is designed specifically for the lframe.

It seems like the super mario 64 is already on there by the fact that a lot of applications that have no art will get the art and name for mario 64. It's actually super annoying to have 5-10 apps of mine rename themselves all to Mario 64 and change the artwork every time you update it through the installer... Then you need to manually rename them all and delete the art.

You should never cut the lframe, it is totally unnecessary and will prevent the console from booting without the modchip ever again unless you fix the trace, which at your current skill level may not be possible(it is an extremely small trace surrounded by several others). Also, you should not be grounding D0 ever either. This will damage the console over time. This is why the aladdin(and other modchips) have a D0 pad on them. You solder the D0 on the mobo to this and it grounds it for a few seconds allowing the console to boot, then releases it so it's not constantly grounded. However, as you have a 1.6 you should not be doing anything with the D0 pad anyway. You should be attaching the L1 pad on the aladdin to the lframe on the motherboard. You will need to scrape back some solder mask on the lframe trace and solder a wire from that to the L1 pad on the modchip. This is more difficult than just soldering to the D0 point on the mobo.

absolutely yes.....

For that price you can buy 2 xbox's, get 2 working disc drives from them and have the full things left over as parts consoles. No thanks.

https://wiki.console5.com/wiki/Microsoft_Xbox This shows a list of all caps for all revisions, including the psu and DVD drive and where they all go.

Even worse is that the 1.6b verions come with the hynix ram. The only positives I can think of is that you have a higher chance of getting a hitachi dvd drive and since the clock caps rarely leak, less of a chance of getting a damaged mobo?

There are no 1.5's. I've opened and tested over 100 xbox's over the years and have never seen one. I've also never known anyone who has ever seen one. Anyone online who has ever claimed to have one has never provided proof, and when asked too would either disappear or do more thorough testing and find they really had a 1.4. I wish there was some way to remove all information about this "revision" from the internet as it seems to confuse a lot of new people trying to get into the hobby. As for which revision is the best, I would say the 1.1. You get all the positives of the 1.0 with none of the negatives, such as the bad gpu fans and flimsily attached daughter board of the 1.0s. Also, as for the power supplies, I have come across many foxlinks in the 1.0s as well as the 1.1s. They both had the power socket solder problems. I actually come across delta power supplies most often in these revisions, rather than foxlinks. The rarest power supply is definitely the Minebea though. I've actually only seen two of them and actually kept one as my 1.0/1.1 test PSU. They are by far the best PSU ever built for any revision of the xbox. They have the best build quality and the largest amount of capacitors for voltage ripple reduction on any PSU. You'll notice that microsoft started cheaping out on later revisions and leaving a lot of capacitors unpopulated on the boards, particularly around the CPU. This is likely why later revisions always have those 3300uf caps leaking(they are being overtaxed) and I rarely see the earlier ones leaking or out of spec in that area. Finally, for the DVD drives. I always hear that Thomsons are the worst but in my experience the Samsung revision B drives are the worst. Almost every thomson I've ever run into has either still worked or required minimal tweaking to get fully working again. The opposite is true for the Samsungs, they either work or are unfixable. No amount of capacitor replacement, resistor array replacement, pot tweaking or even laser replacement seems to fix them. I have only a few thomsons laying around that are unfixable, yet I have an entire box of maybe 30 or so samsungs which are completely broken beyond repair. If I were to rate the DVD drives from best to worst I'd say Hitachi>Philips>Thomson>Samsung F>Samsung B. I've only ever seen a hitachi drive once in person so they may as well not exist if you are looking for one, so I'd probably advise getting a Philips drive.

As said above you could try getting a cheap digital microscope with a large lcd screen on it, or somehow rig your phone up on a stand and zoom it in as far as you can. You will need to get a 0603 100ohm resistor for this(resistor should say 101 on it). Those are really still pretty large and easy to solder if you have the right tips(I use a angled/bent conical tip for this type of soldering). If you want to talk about difficult smd component work try soldering some 0201 or 01005 components used on the newer consoles.

I haven't actually tested udma6 with it yet, I just assumed it wouldn't work. I should probably do that.

I got more help from the cerbios discord. A user there told me that adding a 100ohm resistor to the R4 pad on this adapter will fix not only the speed but also the boot times. I added this resistor and the xbox now boots instantly(same as the startech) and UDMA5 works at full speed now (same as the startech). That makes these adapters basically as good as the startech with some very basic modification.

I'll test the write/read speeds using the andy speed test utils tool. EDIT: Speed test with UDMA4 is about 60mb/s. Speed test using UDMA5 is around 90mb/s. I believe UDMA5 is supposed to be 100mb/s correct? So it's not using the full speed but it's still better than UDMA4. With the startech adapter I get 100mb/s at UDMA5 and 113mb/s at UDMA6.

Got the chinese ide/sata clones in today. They all work with the DVD drive correctly now. They even work with UDMA5 instead of the advertised udma4(according to cerbios discord). They do take slightly longer to load past the cerbios image though. The startech adapter would load past that image instantly to the bios animation, these adapters take 5-8 seconds. It's a fair tradeoff to have properly working dvd drives though.

https://www.delock.com/produkt/62510/merkmale.html I am in the US sorry if I made the above confusing. You can find various online shops throughout Europe on their site and the prices converted to USD range from $30 to $60 without shipping. I can get the startech adapters on amazon for $16-$18 shipped. This is an insane price variance and I can't justify buying them for those prices and then paying the ridiculous shipping costs on top of that to import them to the US. I'm not even sure if they REALLY work. I mean they look 100% identical to the startech adapter, enough so that I'd be willing to bet they are all made in the same taiwanese factory and rebranded for each country like most products are. That being the case I can't really see how they can be all that different but I'm not willing to drop the cash to find out.

There was no explanation from anyone why it didn't work, just that it didn't. There are a few startech-looking clones made by delock and renkforce that don't have the problem with the samsung drives(supposedly). These clones look exactly the same as the startech adapter in every way but apparently work? I don't know how, I guess they have some different firmware or something on them. I have no way of testing this as I can't find them in the US and importing them is prohibitively expensive on top of their already double cost of a startech.

No problem. I'm just glad I've gotten and answer to this finally that can be shared with everyone here. I've been sitting on all the samsung drive xbox's for months without being able to sell them because of this issue. I assumed the drives were just being flaky since the samsung lasers seem to have an insanely high failure rate(even more than the thomson ones amazingly in my experience), so I never bothered to look into it further. I would like to note though that I was told that the only one of those china "green pcb" adapters that actually works correctly are the ones that have the master/slave jumper on them, and even then it only works at UDMA4 with a DVD drive connected. There are several different types that look extremely similar so you need to choose carefully. I'm ordering several of these from different sellers to try out. I'll make a post here to confirm if they work once I receive them in a week or so. Image below shows the exact adapter that supposedly works with the samsung drives.

Yes all Thomson, Philips and Hitachi drives work flawlessly with the startech as far as I've been able to tell. Both the Samsung B and F variants do not work correctly. Also, according to the cerbios discord the B drives also have some bug in the current cerbios as well that is separate from the startech issue.

Issue has been confirmed to be a problem with the startech adapter and compatibility with Samsung dvd drives by the guys on the cerbios discord. Will need to use one of the china adapters on all consoles with a samsung dvd drive.

I figured out at least PART of the problem I think. It only causes this error on HDD's of 1tb or larger. I tried on several brands of 250gb sata, 400gb sata and 750gb sata drives I had laying around and the problem is not there. As soon as I use any 1tb, 2tb, 3tb or 4tb drive though the issue happens again. This is on a fresh format of the drive with ONLY the cerbios.ini, bootanims on C and xbmc4gamers on E and nothing else at all. This doesn't tell me why it is happening though or how to fix it. Anyone here have any ideas on that?