Bowlsnapper
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Posts posted by Bowlsnapper
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Updated to 1.3.0
Changelog in the description. -
1 minute ago, tiertop said:
I didn't have any INI in use. I think I tried EVTool on it.
Sorry, no ini. I was mixed up.
With EVTool, you couldn't enable IGR to work?
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12 minutes ago, tiertop said:
These 128MB EVOX ROM modifications. I tried a few of the UDMA builds for non-HDMI systems on my v1.0 and IGR wasn't functional. That was probably a year ago though so I could be remembering wrong.
It may have been a non-standard button combo. Or more likely, or hard-coded off with EVtools when patching.
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1 hour ago, MadMartigan said:
Looks like you’ve started to lose strands here. I’m assuming this is the cable that the case has ruined, as you mentioned. I don’t see anywhere else that I would personally start my troubleshooting. If you’re capable, I’d repair that connection and see what happens.
@tiertop Expanding upon Marty's post here, it may be possible that there is a short or something fishy about grounding that is causing attenuation/dimming in the LED or blocking the data signal from reaching the transmitter entirely. Definitely look at ALL the wiring in there.
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5 hours ago, snapcaseacilec said:
So would using a USB MIC/Headset work through the controller if I do not have a OG Communicator / headset?
There is not currently an "open-source" or alternative solution to this adapter (communicator). Although with all the Halo 2-ness that is happening, a solution is being explored by multiple people. I know that alternative sources for the existing supported chipset are being explored as well as possibly other solutions. A generic audio adapter will not work, as far as I am aware.
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2 hours ago, tiertop said:
My HD AV Pack is no longer outputting a working optical audio signal. The receiver acts as if nothing is connected. The AV box is producing the red light but it is noticeably dimmer when compared to my TV's optical output. I tried two optical cables and two XBoxes. Inside the HD AV pack, the optical audio section is on a mini PCB and has a tantalum cap, as shown in the photo. Could this cap be going bad and causing the LED to dim?
Not much to replace there... There's a ceramic capacitor, but I think those rarely go bad... Maybe try replacing both that and the SPDIF LED module?
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49 minutes ago, duckmansweb said:
Hi guys, having a bit of an issue that is trolling me, V1.6 xbox using all K4D263238M-QC50, The ONLY bank i have a problem with is bank 4 and ONLY bank 4, i have no bridges this is not my first rodeo, using xblast all banks 1-2-3 are fine, ONLY when i install the 4th bank, the console just turns on and stays green light with no display, kinda like a coma console, its weird, if i REMOVE bank 4 and boot up, it will boot into Xblast and Test 1-2-3 ok, its not my soldering, i have NO idea why its only doing it with bank 4 - its not caps, its been re-capped, any help would be great
You seem like you are an experienced guy... I'm sure you tried another chip just in case that one is DOA?
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19 hours ago, Grizzled_85 said:
As an alternative to Cerbios, which still has massive issues with non-component video signals
It does? I haven't had any on all the consoles I've run it on... What issues are you experiencing?
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8 hours ago, GaminGuys said:
Just done a v1.1 myself. Did get a bridge on chip 3 and whilst going to test on a Jafar loaded with Xblast, it started beeping. Just for future reference. All good now, just wicked it away. Quite easy to spot if you look at a cut across of the board at the chip pins, you've added.
Wanted to add that bridges are easy to avoid if you use a shit ton of flux (obviously) and then only add a little to the tip of your iron and do the drag method. You can always add more once you sap all the solder off the tip of your iron, but if you have too much, you'll end up with bridges and needing to remove it. Although I don't wick right away, I'll try to go along another side/row of pins and move some of the solder from one row to the next that I work on. Much easier... and you'll need less solder for that next row you started.
And never get solder into the vias around the chips. I have no idea why, but it kills motherboards. If it happens, use braid to get it out of the via before you run power through the board... seriously.
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15 minutes ago, JackedLynx said:
It's all good. I'm past being upset about it, even though my insurance gave me a good slap across the face for even thinking they would give me even $0.01.
I lost all of my original xboxes, my PS2, 3 360's, an xbox one x, 4 computers, my whole stock of xbox parts except heatsinks and screws, home audio speakers, a vintage stereo receiver i was working on, vintage portable shortwave radios, some sentimental things like photos and video tapes of me as a kid just to name a few things. Practically everything i own was in the basement.
I'm big into electronics repair and this really took me out of the game.
I cannot possibly express the condolences that would be appropriate for the level of loss here. If something like that happened to me I would slit my wrists. I mean... are you sure EVERYTHING is toast? Could some of it not be disassembled, cleaned, ultrasonically cleaned, and saved? As long as power was not going through these things it's possible that water didn't destroy all of it once dried. Why was all this in the basement and why did it flood so catastrophically?
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3 hours ago, JackedLynx said:
Lost all my consoles when my basement flooded, anyone have a console with 128mb ram & a makemhz hdmi kit installed they are willing to part ways with?
Thanks!
... That's pretty lackadaisical considering what it is you just said. Dude I am so SORRY. That would be a point of mourning in my life for fucking decades.
I have one in a Halo edition. Not sure I am willing to sell since I'm a bit attached to it, but who knows, I'll think on it.
What all was lost?
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22 hours ago, Grizzled_85 said:
Links are down, bummer...
What do you actually need them for, at this point?
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Debugger wired up with relocated TX & RX LEDs
Quite the shitstorm of wires, I know. But as long as they're never seen... fuck it.
I'll hide the wires better
Here it is. SuperIO RX and TX lights working on the left. On the right side, from left to right: DVD activity, DVD Ready, HDD activity, LAN activity.
This was a long project, but worth the work. I wanted to do a Development kit, but with a little more than the LAN debugging that came with the regular Debug kit. This more like a mix between the DVT-2 (Debug Kit) and DVT-4 (Development kit). The DVT-4 had serial debugging at the kernel level, as opposed to just LAN (XBDM).
I wanted to internalize the serial debugger, so I did, keeping things neat. The only thing is, I would not have view of the Transmission/Receiving LEDs if I did so, so I soldered molexes to the SMD LED pads on the debugger and relocated the LEDs up front. At first I had issues with the debugger, but I managed to finally find some loose pins on the SMSC chip on the debugger linking the chip to the LPC. Once that was fixed, I had to swap out the 1.4 board I was planning to use with a 1.0, since I determined that Lframe could not be made to work on the 1.4. I basically trashed the via on the edge of the MCPX and couldn't repair it. JESUS that thing is fragile. So I plugged it into the 1.0 and I got output through Windbg. Awesome. Then I saw the video of the status LED array and wanted to do the same thing, so I did. A very statusy and verbose console I have here. I call it the DVT-5. Lol. Obviously the console is upgraded to 128MB of RAM. The SuperIO debugger case is printed green (off color but still) as well as the fan shroud. Also printed some green feet since 3 were missing and the one remaining was falling off. The clips used for the LEDs are 3D printed as well. I went with PETG instead of resin, since I have shit luck with resin and everything I make with it turns into crap. lol.
The software setup is TSOP flashed Cerbios 2.3.2 Hybrid flagged as debug in the ini. I wanted to keep the LPC free for the SuperIO ribbon. You can do an LPC breakout and have both the debugger and a modchip, but it served no purpose for me and I wanted as much space as possible. I have a PBL out to retail (XBMC) and will create a shortcut in the future so that I can load XBMC straight from the XDK if I need to debug through it for whatever reason. The HDD structure is just like my other HDDs and consoles. 2TB with XBMC as the main and based on the Origins image. The debug flag in the ini is what gets me to boot into the XDK dash. However, I still need to learn to code, so I will probably start with hello world, and then write my first app installing and then enabling or disabling the FPS overlay DXT extension.
The USB-C breakout I used is here: https://www.adafruit.com/product/4090 This is what fits into the Rear USB-C breakout board mount STL I included in the bundle. Buy one, it's only a few bucks, but get the 1 Ft cable, too. Forgive me for not doing a pinout, but a pinout can be done yourself with a multimeter and a cable with the wires exposed on one end and the other plugged into the jack. That's what I did. You have to put the cable through the RF shield and then solder the wires to the board... unless you wanna just cut some of the grille off the RF shield. However, you do need to fit it into one of the bottom vents (the bottom left, looking at it from the inside of the case) and you will see a channel in the bottom of the fan shroud for the USB cable to go through. Line it up with that.
I have included in this package all the 3D prints, wiring diagrams and info (Gerber, BOM) for the SuperIO debugger that I used to make this development kit. If you need anything, ask me.
Debug Kit Goodie Bundle: https://mega.nz/file/JqdiFTqb#Ca4eF9tDnwTdIUDDyewTpFyj7p-Jqa73LLHCZmvV5jU-
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I found it. Lan and HDD activity LEDs have cathodes to the solder points, with resistors. DVD activity are anode to points. I need to take a closer look and see why this is not working. I suspect a short.
I will try to ask him for gerbers of the PCB and parts, but I think that this is his baby.
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Wow... I remember the days when you could send a console in the be repaired... is that still a thing, or are consoles disposable now?
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The HDD and LAN activity LEDs have the cathode go to the point indicated. DVD points, however, must have anodes go to the point.
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2 hours ago, Mbenj24 said:
When you buy some used consoles on Ebay or elsewhere when you see "Refurbished" stickers on them? I bought a number recently, and one had a refurbished sticker underneath it. When I opened it up it was missing one screw for the PS, both screws for one and two controller ports and broken tabs to help hold down the fan! Man these guys are crude!
Haven't come across that yet. I would completely disregard a "refurbished" sticker. May mean something to the average person but not to us.
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Well, It's basically done. I didn't get the DVD "Ready" light to work (it kept fucking with my DVD ROM drive and making it act funny), but I did get the activity light going, separate from the HDD activity LED. LAN is there as well. The two on the left are the RX and TX LEDs for the Super IO debugger. I'll test more tomorrow with the XDK and debugging through LAN, but it looks like this project is good
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The relocated debugger RX and TX LEDs are working.
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I got the debugger working. First, some pins were loose on the SMSC chip linking to the LPC pins. Now, it will not work with the 1.4 board I'm trying to use, because the LFrame via is borked. I already know, man. I gouged the shit out of it.
Anyway, if I have to use the 1.0 that I used here to test the unit, then I will, but I'm gonna try to get the 1.4 Lframe working. Project is back on track and the BOM I posted is good.
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1 hour ago, aHun said:
The guy I bought it off of had definitively replaced the paste already and I already re-pasted it again after pulling the heat sinks towards the beginning of this adventure. I may have schmooed a little too much on there or not cleaned them well enough. I didn't have to pry at all to remove the heat sinks so I doubt I damaged the chips.
From all the reading I've done on these systems, they seem to be surprisingly durable but also super finicky. Invisible trace rot, bad caps with no signs, stupid disk drives. It all seems fixable, but stupid hard to diagnose. I ordered more thermal paste and I'm gonna drown those chips in ISO soon
Ah, okay. So if all that has happened, then I would reapply a thermal coupling solution.
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2 hours ago, Joker1551 said:
Is there any plans to make signed and unsigned games playable?
It will be made easier to go into a modded dash with a retail BFM bios from the XDK dashboard and just launch games from XBMC, UnleashX, etc.. In order to launch retail games from the XDK dash, it's kind of a pain (it can be done a certain way) and honestly would not really serve a purpose.
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1 hour ago, aHun said:
Idk either but thank you, I'll give it a shot ASAP. Gotta order some more thermal paste first. If that's all it ends up being, I'll be thrilled
If your temperatures are normal, then thermal paste is not necessary and it will not fix this. Also, if the graphical errors are present immediately upon boot, then the artifacting is not being caused by overheating. Really, in the case of the Original Xbox, the thermal glue that is used is pretty much fuckin' bulletproof. That stuff is incredibly durable. In fact, if your temperatures are good, I would not remove the stock cooling compound setup. It just would serve no purpose. If you have never removed those sinks and they have never been apart from the motherboard, I would assume that your thermal compound is intact and is still doing the job it was doing 20 years ago.
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50 minutes ago, BmanGames said:
Looking to replace my ide drive with a sata drive, I have the startech adaptor and a molex splitter, only question is my 80wire ide cable won't be here till may 7th, ordered a https://a.co/d/2qL1JSJ cable they seem to be on back order, can I use my 40wire ide until that one gets here, wanna go ahead and swap the drive and get my stuff transfered
Yes you can... However, you will be limited to UDMA 2 speeds, reliably. You can either flash the UDMA 2 version of Cerbios for the time being, or flash UDMA 6 to get prepared for the cable and just boot into safe mode using the eject button to power on. Using UDMA 6 will definitely result in an error.
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Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
Xbox communicator open sourced
in Hardware Mods
Posted
I knew this would happen eventually. I am so stoked. Thank you @Ryzee119 for working on this and releasing it. Thank you to all those involved. Your work is incredible and impressive. Thank you so much.