MadMartigan
-
Posts
739 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
16
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Store
Posts posted by MadMartigan
-
-
@DARK A you left us hanging on the conversion information. Any chance you can provide a guide or help walk us through the process so we can make a user guide for others? This can help so many users.
-
1
-
1
-
-
Yes that’s highly possible. You can add a little contact cleaner or some isopropyl alcohol and hit it with a tooth brush or something that will break up the grime or corrosion within the switch.
I’ve only had this happen once and I did eventually get it work. The switches are also readily available online if you just want to replace it.If you are strictly asking about the protection switch preventing you from flashing a bios, then yes, that is absolutely the problem if protection mode is on.
-
I believe all xecuters have front panel switches. X3 just had many more dips than the others. A picture of yours would give a definite answer to whether it's an X3 or not.
-
That’s perfectly fine and it is nice to show, but claiming it’s a 1/10 on the job scale is just complete BS. I’d wager that most ppl would be willing to spend $5 to save themselves hours of headache. Also, a simple hairdryer will suffice, over a heat gun if you don’t have one.
And if can keep at least one person from putting their case in the freezer, then this is all worth it. DO NOT DO THAT!!
-
1
-
-
I’d like to know your dyeing process if you wouldn’t mind sharing.
-
Not a chance. Just looking at the process alone is a 5/10. Labor adds points. Then factoring in time, I'm gonna say at least 7/10. Heat gun and borer is a true 1/10.
-
1
-
-
I tried a few months ago to delve into this topic and it seems there isn't much documentation on the subject. Lots of ppl say it's possible but nobody seems to have instructions.
-
Heat gun and a hole cutter will cut that time in half or less. You just opted to tackle this on hard mode.
19 hours ago, PRince404 said:Mr Mario showed a trick where he just leaves the top shell in a freezer for about 10 hours and then tries to pry it out. I think he showed it in one of his videos.
This is almost a guaranteed way to destroy your case. Frozen plastic becomes extremely brittle especially when it’s over 20 years old.
-
1
-
-
Don't rush the process on our account. We waited a year or more for Nems 3D goodies and everybody is happy. I really do want some parts once you get the process down.
-
1
-
-
I’ve been running into issues left and right after swapping from and OpenXenium with the HD+ to Nemesis Xenium. I finally got everything up and running fine and seemingly no issue at all with the swapping. Updated to the latest PrometheOS and HD+ firmware before the swap. I can play around in Prometheos as long as I want, doing FTP, flashing banks, etc. As soon as I load into Cerbios HD I get the normal XBMC login screen, but that’s as far as I can get. It freezes almost every time I attempt to sign in. Once I was able to login, but it froze when I clicked on apps. I’ve done a full reformat and reinstall of everything. Also have made sure I’m running the latest XBMC4Gamers. I was trying UDMA 6 and then tried UDMA 5 on a brand new 2TB HDD, with the same results. Anyone else ever run into something like this?
This is happening on my precious Skeleton that I’ve slowly been trying to get done.
-
I guess it could be possible that the chip on the Aladdin didn’t get a bios flashed to it. Have you attempted to check that with an external flasher?
-
Im just going to pretend that you’re releasing that X3 faceplate for me lol.
-
1
-
-
I've had to put my build on hold due to similar issue with fitment of wires. I've resorted to ordering a whole new bundle of fans and cables to try a cleaner method. Work picked up with the warmer weather and my time is limited now.
I'm searching for a right angle ide adapter to plug directly into the motherboard to eliminate the IDE cable entirely. There's a cool Syartech adapter that does this, but doesn't have clearance with the disc tray being in the way. If anyone has ideas of an.adapter like this, please share. Hopefully we can compile a list of all the best fitting and highest quality parts for future buyers of Nemess' kit.
-
On 11/27/2023 at 5:15 PM, COO-589 said:
There is this StarTech adaptor that I believe has been used successfully in the XBOX:
https://www.startech.com/en-au/hdd/pata2sata3
(This adapter can be plugged into the motherboard and a SATA data cable run to the drive)
It uses a SunplusIT SPIF223A chip and only supports up to SATA I at 1.5Gbps (which is obviously far in excess of what the XBOX is capable of and it's unlikely that a modern SATA III drive wouldn't be backwards-compatible with SATA I) and up to 133Mbps for PATA (which is UDMA-6).
Potentially also saves the hassle of an 80-wire IDE cable upgrade, but not sure how this adapter actually goes with UDMA-5 or UDMA-6 in the XBOX.
Has anyone tried this adapter yet? I'm close to buying one, but don't want to waste time if it wasn't a good experience.
-
31 minutes ago, stuerts2003 said:
Hi there does anyone have the 3d file of Startech SATA-IDE case. thank you
Please read threads before posting in them. The link is in the very first post.
-
Oh wow! I definitely would not turn that option down. You’re gonna be the one to push me over the edge and start looking into a 3D printer.
-
1
-
-
After much delay, I’ve finally got around to getting this beauty started. I’m a stickler for details and my OCD makes me do everything extremely slow lol. She has been fully dissembled, thoroughly cleaned, recapped and pasted, 128MB RAM, and HD+ ready. Taking frequent breaks to tackle weekend chores, but it’s happening and has been a fun time. I get way too much satisfaction taking these things apart and detailing them.
@Bowlsnapper I should probably go ahead and get a startech adapter housing from you, but I’d rather wait for the clear version also. Guess I can hold off on that one part for now as it would be the easiest thing to swap out, being right on top.
Should have a finished product tonight.
-
3
-
-
Yes, I think I would like a clear one once you’ve perfected the craft.
-
1
-
-
Ooh, a clear could be nice. I’d love to see one if you had plans on testing it out. What makes one material better than the other when you say you resin is better? Like I said, I’m a complete noob when it comes to that stuff.
-
Are you currently offering black only and did you have the same issue with the adapter cable being too wide for the opening? Thought maybe it could be an easy adjustment, but I’ve never touched a 3D printer before.
-
I was actually just telling another user last week how easy it was to get crystals for cheap here in the US. You must have some patience and be willing to swap out the PSU for 100-120v, but still very easy if you’re willing to put in the effort. You also may need to fix a small issue, but that’s part of every OG Xbox these days. I highly recommend tweaking the filters on eBay and saving your search to inform you of new items added. Reach out if you need some more info. I don’t want to stray far from the topic at hand here.
-
11 hours ago, amak79 said:
I finally got my RF shield restored. I went with metal plating instead of painting. Below are some before and after photos. Unfortunately the before photos are with the case on but you can still see the difference.
Apparently the original finish was not metal plated, but some kind of metallic paint. When the RF shield was placed into the rust/paint removal solution the original finish came off instantly.
A couple things to note. Although the rust has been removed, the pitting of the metal remains visible. I was warned about this before hand. The inside corners on the bottom piece were very difficult to plate. A special anode had to be created for that area, but even with that there are spots where the metal plating coverage wasn't 100%.
I was originally going to use a rust removal solution (I didn’t want to sand it) and spray paint it, but the cost was only slightly less than metal plating.
Overall I’m very happy with the result. I’m considering having the RF shield from my 1.4 Xbox restored. It doesn’t have any rust but it's very tarnished, so the result should be even better.
Where did you get the plating done? That looks amazing and I have quite a few older ones I was just going to throw into a sand blaster and then paint. Plating would be much more to my desire.
-
Be extremely careful when you’re tinkering with the files. You normally don’t want to touch the shadowC and rarely want to mess with C files. You cause some nasty little issues that way. It’s probably best just to let the installer discs do it for you since they’re mostly updated and the process is automated. Some Xboxes take a little longer to boot after a flash also so that’s worth keeping in mind also. Not to say you won’t get the occasional hang.
-
55 minutes ago, lightwish said:
My kit arrived today, and I'm using this same redux fan from noctua. The quality of the kit is amazing, and the support of Nemesis. Here in Brazil where I live the Xbox was reaching 62 celsius, now with kit installed, it's 52.
Nice to see that you’re pleased with those fans, since I wasn’t even able to get mine done last weekend being that the third fan hadn’t arrived. I’m really looking forward to getting it all together, but I ran into a problem. The third fan isn’t truly 60mm and was 57.8mm, leaving some bad wiggle room around the enclosure. I have a few more days now to think of a solution. 10 degree drop in temps is insane.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
110 volt PSU compared to a 220 volt
in Repair
Posted
Bumping this. @KaosEngineer do you have anything on this with your seemingly infinite wisdom?
SSDave has apparently left the forums.