Aero_105

The DLC downloaded content could in fact be an installer, it would help if you could verify. Digiex.net offline dlc would be an option as I have two xbox's with failed dvd drives. I do still have the original hdd files. Would they work on an upgraded hdd? The original xbox has a aladdin modchip.

I ran the halo 2 game disc once made a profile, installed the dlc from a hdd ready download. Original hdd had the dlc already. The installed files match on the 1 TB drive so the install is good. 3 out of ten times when a dlc game is picked in the pregame lobby I get a "Failed to load map" error. Also when I try to join a game that is dlc it occurs as well. When I host a dlc game it works but not every time for the other person I get 1 or more players failed to load map. This occurs with xlink kai as a direct system link connection works every time. Not sure if it is xlink kai computer settings or what?

Sold! Item is no longer available.

I could not use Write Table & Format with XBPartitioner v1.3 to 924 GB initially. When I write table and format to 06 being 120 GB and 07 being 803 GB then switched back to formatting a second time to 924 GB 64kb clusters then it worked with no ER code. Good to know what UnleashX supports 16kb clusters. Once properly formatted the xbox original now boots faster. Thanks for the help.

I did a recent xbox original upgrade v 1.6 with aladdin xt plus 2 mod chip from aliexpress, ide to sata adapter with 80 wire ide cable and finally a seagate 1 tb hdd. I did an format on the hdd with ogxbox 2021 installation disc. Through the process I selected format F drive with remaining space and skipped the G drive. I checked xbpartitioner v 1.3 and found an ER code beside the 924 GB. My options are in xbpartitioner v 1.3 without ER code are #1. 120 GB for F only #2. 120 GB for F only and 803 for G only. I selected option #2. Would I run into problems down the road if I left the hdd with 924 GB with ER code? I thought the modchip came with M8plus_16.bin with 06 where partition F take remaining space? Does the partitions F and G under games merge on the same screen when selecting from menu? Does the partitions given in xbpartitioner v 1.3 depend on the type of bios and type of hdd?

I got the adapter apart, there are two clips near the top. I ended up using a circular sanding disc to file down the edge with the chipboard out. I used car touch-up clear coat. It should work . The connector now fits. I ended up using a cell phone earbuds with mic and soldered a 2.5 mm stereo plug. It was difficult to solder as the wires are small and they had a insulating coating on them.

I purchased a xbox communicator adapter hoping I would be able to use a stereo 2.5 mm plug. I am unable to fit the plug to the adapter b/c of raised edge interference. I rather use what I have if possible. What are my options? Do I disassemble the adapter leaving half intact. Do I file down the raised edges so the jack is flush. Does anyone know where I can get an old mono headset with mic used for cell phones 2.5 mm plug? Does anyone know if there is a 2.5 mm cable extension that would fit or is it all proprietary. I am having difficulty disassembling the communicator adapter, it seems to catch at the top, I don't know why. Has anyone disassembled one before?

For sale Xbox Original eeprom reader / writer Soldered using 60/40. Shielded usb cable 9 pin serial connector Tested and works! Asking $8.00 + $2.00 Canada post standard shipping. Total of $10.00 Canada Only! e-transfer only! PM if interested thanks.

I am in the same boat. I purchased a yellow ebay 80 wire ide cable ended up being 15" instead of 24" got refunded. Seller says keep the cable. I then figured might as well try re-crimping middle connector to ideal location as in link, https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/comments/8dxepr/i_moved_the_middle_connector_on_an_80wire_ide/ . Found out the middle connector has no metal terminals what a scam! Maybe you have the same occurance. I may have to resort to using a 18" startech ide cable and re-crimp to ideal location.

I was able to resolder the TSOP point I twisted half the stranded wires to makes a smaller wire where I tinned and bridged from the solder pad then to the SMD resistor where the trace broke off. I checked with a multimeter and used bios checker to see if it can recognize the chip. Being a Winbond chip I used XBlast OS program to see if it can read the chip and to get setup to flashing the chip.

Lots of options to go by. I'll have to get better practice on tinning vias and solder pads. The solder iron seems to collect the solder from the already tinned solder pads. How do you properly tin vias and solder pads? One article (below link) suggested the solder flows to where heat is. So I must allow the iron to heat the solder point for a few seconds but not enough to damage the board. I have no difficulty tinning wires. Do I solder the wire and allow the heat and solder to flow to the solder point? I use a ST7 (.8mm) solder tip. Have same problem: https://www.quora.com/Every-time-I-try-to-tin-a-solder-pad-the-solder-gets-stuck-to-the-soldering-pencil-instead-How-can-I-prevent-this-and-do-it-correctly How to solder vias: a bit lengthy video but it is helpful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5P7bDsHVsV4

Need a second option. Is the trace to solder point missing ok to leave as is? It does not look like a via. So I think I am ok. The original xbox has a modchip. I was attempting to TSOP so I could use the modchip on a v1.6 xbox. When bridging the solder with tinned wire after I gave it a tug to check if it was attached properly and it was enough to rip out the trace and solder point.

Well I ended up desoldering the green wire off the leg of the chip. Then left the yellow wire I soldered earlier on the 4th leg up on the chip. Now the xbox original powers on with no interference. Thanks for the help. This concludes the post as solved. The hard drive still makes the clicking noise but that will be for another day.

I disconnected the power and eject switch connector from the motherboard plugged in the original xbox and it still powers on. I followed the following link to get a better idea of what is going on. http://fillwithcoolblogname.blogspot.com/2011/02/1st-gen-xbox-trace-corrosion-repair.html I rechecked all the traces from "A" - "E". The "E" trace does not have continuity but it is hard to follow where the trace leads to see if there is damage. Could someone verify the "E" trace connection is correct in the following post. https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/29-how-to-fix-trace-corrosion

I examined the power switch for trace damage there is none but checking the continuity test for both power switch and eject switch seems intermittent. I check a similar switch I have it is consistent for continuity when pressed. But that shouldn't affect the original xbox from powering on when plugged in. There must be more traces affected on the motherboard. I ended up splicing into the green wire as it is already connected to the smd resistor and then soldered the link to the corresponding chip leg. The original xbox powers on immediately when plugged in with no power down.

Well I back tracked and soldered a wire to one leg of a chip and the other end to one side of a resistor. The xbox original powers on for 6(s) when plugged in then shuts off. Afterward pressing the tray button powers the xbox original for at least 20 minutes and does not power off, which is good. The power button does not work. At least I am going again. Is it safe to power off the unit by unplugging the cord?

I purchased a 40 watt weller solder iron, some 60/40 solder, desoldering braid and liquid rosin flux. I practiced soldering and desoldering on a bad computer motherboard. I then soldered a ethernet wire to bridge the gaps but had difficulty with the pin hole point of the trace and could not get the wire to hold. The silver plate point was soldered but when desoldering it came off I was trying to put a new wire in that was better tinned. I figured the wire must of been to big. Now I have two damaged points. Could I back track further and solder from point near R3G4 the top of the board to another point past the silver plate point of "Trace A" to point near C7P6. I found a thinner wire about half the size I was using by splicing a broken xbox original controller cable. Point near C7P6 https://drive.google.com/file/d/184pdYORMIgrXsXWQiUSVUjiBCZPCUF_g/view?usp=sharing Point near R3G4 https://drive.google.com/file/d/12fBZmCnIaZO9DzZ6SuR1kDWqUbJ_uBTT/view?usp=sharing

I haven't done the repair yet but before I continue I would like to know if there is more damage than I thought. I don't recall the hard drive making this noise when plugged in a pc. Is this the result of a missing trace? I called a few people if they would solder for me. I got two quotes. I decided if I am going to repair I will end up doing so myself. I am looking into getting lead free solder paste and desoldering braid. I have a budget solder iron but ended up vapourizing the solder that came with it. Maybe solder paste is easier to work with as it is applied to the wire before melting it. Here's the audio file of the hard drive seeking: 30(s)-end https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-4AyFUMN71fUNKJcHa0Ao5WabzMIuWT8/view?usp=sharing

In the process of finding a person who does advanced soldering.

There is a break on "Trace A" I tested with a multimeter. "Trace B" there was continuity. The original xbox shuts down at about 3:30(s) with DVD and Hard drive disconnected. My softmodded xbox runs past 10 mins, doesn't shut down with DVD and Hard drive disconnected.

How well does a conductive pen work? Does the repair need an overcoat pen as well?

I got the xbox original to power up for 2:20(s). I used hot glue at the green and brown wire solder points, it didn't improve on time. I put electrical tape folded around the green and brown wire where they cross over ide connector and dvd power connector. I found trace damage on photo 16. Is it a matter of finding someone who does board level repair. With the modchip disconnected, dvd drive and hard drive disconnected I get an error 07. It then powers off at 2:20(s). I used an eraser to clean the glue around the small rubber square. Photos 15,16 and 17 https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xyojw0QrylbUP9E3nXgxr4DaBer2UyW8?usp=sharing

Here's 14 photos of the xbox original damaged motherboard. Photo 1 is from another xbox similar board version. It has a resistor of 112 label. That resistor is missing on the damaged motherboard. Sorry the pictures are not that clear poor lighting and flash cause distortion on photo. The green wire on back of the board, the solder is closer than the parallel trace lines possibly contacting. There is heat damage on the back of the ide connector. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xyojw0QrylbUP9E3nXgxr4DaBer2UyW8?usp=sharing

The board version must be 1.2. Conexant video chip, 2003 - 07 - 10 mfg date, 5101 kernal. There is a missing flat rectangular resistor that came off when cleaning the board by the capacitor known to leak. There must be something causing a short because the xbox original shuts off suddenly. I managed to get it to run for 3 minutes. What does one charge for replacing a resistor and doing a trace repair? I don't trust the mod chip solder points behind the board they need to be de-soldered as well.

I got original xbox with intentions to only use working dvd drive to swap for parts but up found the existing hdd looked damaged as original owner said xbox was making arching noises. I figured to see if I can get the xbox going again. The machine powers on and shuts off at 1:15(s) that is with a working hdd. I swapped the power supply from a working machine and same thing. The dvd drive does work on a working machine. I relocked the hdd from another machine to this one the hdd was softmodded didn't work. I then reformatted with stock C and E files relocked hdd didn't work. The original xbox powers on automatically when plugged in. The original xbox has a Xecuter 2.6 mod chip. I ran the setup without modchip installed, with modchip turned off and with modchip on - no improvements. Any suggestions as what to do next? What to test for? When on stock dashboard I could not load a disc properly. When on softmod dashboard disc would not load properly. Not sure if there is a ide cable issue? Not sure if the hdd is setup correctly for given bios? Not sure if bios is corrupt. Dvd drive - works Power Supply - works Replaced Hdd Motherboard ? Modchip ?