Baggashite
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Posts posted by Baggashite
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Fusion 360 is my usual weapon of choice but I also use SketchUp.
How clean is the scan? -
18 hours ago, dirtykash said:
Great work, any chance of you sharing the .stl /3D model or the software you used to make this? I assume you used a scan of the original faceplate and edited from there?
I took measurements from the original and drew the faceplate from scratch. It isn't 100% right yet and I haven't had time to redraw it but I will release the .stl when I get round to finishing it.
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What's the ultimate goal, if you don't mind me asking?
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On 5/10/2021 at 2:33 PM, lizardmonkey said:
So.... did you let out the magic blue smoke?????
I don't even want t talk about it... but I will.
I was running some temperature tests today on a new cooling fan/shroud setup on the slim box I'm building, and everything was fine, for about 20 mins, until the box rebooted and FRAG'd. I've no idea why, but it's looking like that MB is dead, so I've just taken a 1.6 board from a Crystal, and I'm fitting it now... But I still haven't hooked it up to the Pico PSU.
That's 2x 1.6 boards that have died on me in as many weeks. I don't think leaving them stood is very good for them, as this one that committed Xsuicide had never been powered on until a few weeks ago, and I know (OK, I'm fairly certain) it's nothing I did wrong.
I'm just about to transfer stuff to the new SSD (yeah, I know, pointless using an SSD but it was a spare one I had lying around).
I'll get back to you when I blow this one up. -
I'll be attempting to not blow up an xbox whilst doing exactly this in the coming days. If I blow it up I'll tell you what not to do.
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I don't like that the Startech SATA-IDE adapter doesn't have a case, so I designed one for it, and thought I'd share it.
It's printed in two halves and snaps together (if all goes well).
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Thanks for the help guys.
SS_Dave and KaosEngineer....you're right about there being no 3.3V at the blue wire. I just tested the known-working PSU and it reads the same as the non-worker (0.1V).I'll see if I can find a PSU on EvilBay.
Cheers
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Is it possible to switch on a 1.6 PSU by shorting any of the wires? The box is going to eventually be running an Arduino from the Standby +5V rail, and I was planning on using a proximity sensor for switching it on, so if the PSU will turn on without going through the MCPX boot process, and the board will boot, I could work with that.
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14 hours ago, SS_Dave said:
The 1.6 only has a 5 volt standby from the power supply and the PowOk pin should have 3.3 volt is from the main board to the PSU
The orange and should at least give a pulse when you plug in the AC if no pulse the the PSU has failed if the pulse is there then the transistors near the gold cap properly have failed
I have had a 1.6 running with just a 12 and 5 volt supply
Cheers
SS Dave
Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.There's 5V on the orange (actually fluctuating between 4 and 5 when plugged in to the board, and a solid 5.5V when disconnected.) but nothing (well. 0.1V when disconnected from the board) on the blue.
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13 hours ago, KaosEngineer said:
Make sure the power supply unit (PSU) you swapped in is for a 1.6 Xbox. Even though the connector is the same 2x10 ATX-style connector on v1.2-1.4 PSU's, the voltage levels on the pins is a bit different.
It's definitely a 1.6 PSU. I have a few of all 3 types but no spare 1.6. I removed one from another box to make sure it wasn't the board, and it's definitely the PSU that's at fault. There's no voltage at all on the blue wire.
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I just tried to power up a 1.6 crystal, and nada, so I checked the PSU, and there's nothing on the 3.3V standby. I CBA faultfinding, as the parts with shipping will likely cost as much as a PSU, so I need a PSU for a 1.6. .. does anybody have one? Cash (PayPal) or exchange for 1.0 - 1.1 PSU.
Also need an OLED OpenXenium with daughterboard, if anyone has one.
I'm in Ireland.
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18 minutes ago, mwmodz said:
bro damn , that looks niccceee, was literally on amazn trying to find to space them myself
The only reason I'm doing it is to 3D print a mini enclosure, with a footprint that's not much bigger than the motherboard, so unless you plan on doing something similar (or a 'slim'), it really isn't worthwhile. The original cooling setup is more than adequate.
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On 3/30/2021 at 7:03 PM, ShinGoutetsu said:
I'm working away for a few days but I'll sort it once I'm home
8 hours ago, lizardmonkey said:Can I possibly get that too? Would really appreciate it.
ShinGoutetsu sent me the files... much appreciated, and absolutely no disrespect to him hi, as he did mention that the mounting holes may not be perfect, but I've measured them and found they don't quite fit with my boards. This may be a difference between boards but I'll post my measurements back to ShinGoutetsu and see if he agrees.
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45 minutes ago, SS_Dave said:
I have read posts of people saying they spend 60 minutes lapping a OG Xbox CPU heat sink because it might be bowed/warped to me that is a waist of time when the contact area is 12mm X 10mm. I did test a heat sink one day for shits and giggles and found it 2 thousands of a inch out over the entire surface.
The best thing I have found for cooling is a clean heat sink and a clean fan.If the heat sink needs to be removed or moves easily then replace the heatsink paste.
Cheers
SS Dave
Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.I couldn't agree more, although I'd consider 2 thou quite a lot (engineering background), but I've been doing this stuff for close to 25 years, and the nonsense I see people spouting is cringeworthy. Yes, you might gain a 0.783 degree drop in temp, if you spend 4 hours lapping your sink on a piece of glass with rubbing compound... so what? Do you think your Xbox gives a shit that it's almost 1 degree cooler? Jeez... please make it stop. Like I said earlier, I can see why you might do it if you're chasing records. I did it myself for a while, but these things are mass produced, with tolerances that would scare most people if they looked into them, yet these boxes are still working 15+ years later.
Stop worrying about cooling. My PC (the one I'm typing this on) is running a 3770K, which has been running at 4.7G for the almost 10 years, and never skipped a beat. (with no lapping or special paste)
If it aint broke, don't try to fix it.Edit to add... I spent about 10 years designing heat exchangers and intercoolers, so I know a little bit about cooling.
Edit to add #2: I'm not having a go at anybody here, just having a rant about the "You must change your thermal paste, and use the most expensive paste you can buy" nonsense.
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1 minute ago, Logh3f82 said:
I just wanna change it cause i'm sure the paste must be years and years old by this point but has anybody even tried getting some world record cooling an Xbox?
I've certainly tried to achieve some 'record' cooling on the Xbox. What I discovered, which is pretty much what I already knew, is that it's not worth the effort.
These arrived today...
I'm going to mount them to the heat sinks of the CPU and GPU, and monitor their temps using an Arduino. Then I'm going to do the same with this board I've just added some funky heatsinks to.
And I'll guarantee there won't be more than about 1 degree difference between them.
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27 minutes ago, SS_Dave said:
Run the Xbox for 10 minutes then try twisting the heat sink.
In my view and testing I have not seen the GPU temps drop with new heat sink paste, I was testing the heat sink temp with a Fluke temperature probe on the heat sink if any then the GPU heat sink was a fraction colder meaning it was not absorbing the heat from the chip as well.
And the GPU temp that is displayed on the screen is not the GPU it is the mother board temp.
Cheers
SS Dave
Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.People tend to get too caught up in the whole "Oh I must use Arctic silver" nonsense. I bought a box of 20 x 25g Arctic Cermamique 2 for 20 quid (pounds sterling) about 10 years ago, and I'm still using them. I've been overclocking everything for as long as I can remember, and the difference between thermal pastes is so miniscule that unless you're chasing world records, it's rarely worth changing them.
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My eyes are shot, but I use this, and have done for many years.
It's not perfect, but it's never let me down, and cost €20 from a car boot sale. I removed the fluorescent tube and added an LED ring.
I'm doing a 128 meg upgrade on an xbox tomorrow, and the board will look exactly like this, through the magnifier. (picture taken with phone through the lens)I know a proper microscope would be nice but if I can't manage it from the above, I reckon it's time I give up... although I would LOVE a Mantis!
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Ripping them off isn't good.
I always heat them (especially the GPU). I use the hot air from a soldering station but a good stint with a hair drier at close quarters should work, or even a hot air gun, but don't overdo it.
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On 4/24/2020 at 8:53 AM, Ryzee119 said:
@Laminatesnow That is a fork of https://github.com/Ryzee119/spi2par2019 which changes the hd44780 LCD interface to a I2C OLED display.
Do you know if the standard OpenXenium will work with an I2C OLED display?
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On 4/1/2021 at 6:41 AM, Lina_Inverse_ said:
Not mine. I did notice a trace which was corroding in my console that he missed in that video, also undid J2 which looked fine. Now it appears the console I did is working good.
Apologies for that. I wrongly assumed it was your video.
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On 4/4/2021 at 10:52 AM, GoTeamScotch said:
That's pretty clever. I usually use plastic cards or some janky solution like that when I have mine all disassembled and powered on. Can I buy one from you?
My printers are flat out printing things at the moment, but I've attached the .stl for the print in the first picture. It should print fine without supports.
I'd use PETG or ABS, but PLA would probably be OK, so long as your box isn't too hot.
I might have a bash at a full redesign. I'm just waiting for some thermistors to arrive, so I can test the actual temps of the sinks, and see how effective the designs are.
Edit to add... This one will not work with the HDD or DVD drive installed.-
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Sorry, I just realised that isn't your video (?)... If so, ignore everything I said.
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I really don't mean to sound condescending... but an opening line like that means I'm probably going to.
I was at ~23.00, where you transferred a blob of solder from the iron tip to the connection. At that point I had to walk away and have a rather large drink (partly because I was facepalming but mostly because my glass was empty). I didn't see the rest of your joints but if that one was indicative of the others, I'd start again and re-solder them properly. You shouldn't be using the iron to transport solder to the joint. The tip should be tinned and only used to heat the joint, then solder added directly to the joint. I'm not saying your connections are bad, as I can't possibly know, but you can't guarantee they're not, if that's how you're soldering them.
Also, how old is that board? You really need to clean your solder points before soldering. There will be oxidation and contaminations that needs to be removed. Clean your solder points, and use flux.And get some sharper probes for your meter.
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3 hours ago, ShinGoutetsu said:
I'm working away for a few days but I'll sort it once I'm home
Thanks... appreciated.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
Designing and 3D Printing a Custom Faceplate
in Case Mods
Posted
I haven't had the time to get it finished yet as I'm in the process of moving house and everything I own is now in boxes.