Zpidelius

Yes, those ain't no 3$ things,, but I get good enough picture when using my external wii2hdmi in only 720 to keep me really satisfied for that price ) compared to what I have been used to since xbox was released ) Rallisport Challenge, Destroy all Humans, Blood Rayne 2 and Soul Calibur 2 and many more is line free and almost Xbox 360 B,C identical looking,, so I really enjoy playing old classics on it now.

I've encountered at least 5 different ones to date, and one with a chip FS9293 or if it says FS9299, hard to see on the small chip, but that one really sucks. It deliver perfect, almost linefree picture, but it is so dark that you can hardly tell what you are doing in games if there is much black colors or a lot of shadows, even XBMC is to dark with this version. Found this PCB with this chip in a Wii2HDMI that has one short-side flat and one short-side rounded,, so stay away from that model. Only way I got a standard bright picture was when I turned of 480/720 and 1080 in NTSC mode,, but then the picture quality was worse than standard Composit signal. This Wii2HDMI is even as bad on my Nintendo Wii.

I tried using caps, different variants and values, did not get any better results. It was my external that is better than the internal I tried on a 1.6 One thing I have noticed is that locking the xbox to only 720p makes the picture very watching friedly. I triedplaying with 480 480/720 720 720/1080 and all 480/720/1080. But with only 720 I now have really acceptable picture with almost no visible linings, in both XBMC and games,, regardless of what game. I tried toroidal rings like Wouter A tried feroid,, but my results were just that the more I wrapped the ring,, the more stretchblurry my picture went, until it started to shift the colors to become purple and green x) while Wouter got better picture the more he wrapped his.

Yepp, I have looked over that some, and such a NiMh would not be the best idea for a "plug and play". I have not measured the mA consumption of the xbox for keeping the date, but read that some say that to put a 2032 holder socket in it's place with a diod works, and some say it is not like the PC bios where it can last years and years but drains very quickly. I wonder where the Graphene scene are now, if it is comming small Graphene supercaps in the suiting size and 2.5v region in the nearby future. That would be a new addition for a clock cap replacement.

I think i seen some parts of that video before, but must have missed that bit when he changes the clock cap. Looks like it's one of those NiMh 2.4v batteries. I've lookes around but never found any reviews how long they keep charged enough to keep the time etc, but can be worth a try and measure the results. Especially since some few 1.6 consoles seems to have begun to get leaking caps to, and they won't work without one.

I have the Controller Tester Xbe somewhere in my collection, I just don't know where at the moment, but I can look it up. I never used that Hexen disc, so I can't tell what it installs, but I usually only install DVD2Xbox and Xb partitioner, that's the only apps I use.

Function before form,, as long as it is internal and never seen Basically it is the same as a switch, either way you have to reach to the backside, flick a switch or unplugg the AV connector. Could mount a small DPST under the front of the xbox, but as I seldom use the AV cable since I managed to get my adapter vertical line free, an internal transistor is really interesting for me.

Aah, that's a really good idea, like a automatic switching relay, only in transistor size Components and electronic theory is not my best area either, as software and such. I know more about hardware, soldering etc, but when it comes down to the level of components, I am mostly lost, except resistors and LED's,, so a transistor, never crossed my mind

Things like these are latin for me when it comes to hardware I usually know what I am doing, but these software things,, I am totally lost. I just took some Ram's from a precious V1.1 i messed up many many years ago trying to do a Ram upgrade on, when I did not have any worthy equipment or knowledge, only a flattip 60w soldering iron, now I just used the BGA machine and they came of nice and tidy amd moved them to the 1.4.

Well, I downloaded the files from Thingy, but have no idea what so ever how they work but I'll keep them incase I come across someone who have a 3D printer and knows about these things I made my first monstrous 128MB beast yesterday, and a built in HDMI adapter would be perfect in that console for a emu/arcade station.

That's an alternative, but if I still have the AV port, I would like to be able to use composit too, just to be able to try it in between to see what difference it makes with HDMI I don't know anyone with a 3D printer, but maybe worth to save the giles for it incase I someday come across someone with a printer, I don't know how it even works, if you have to open the file and print it from a PC or if you can stick it to a USB or SD card and pop it right in the printer and go from there. I don't know how to delete picture either, it seems I have used mu quote too with the pictures of my games with diagonal lines in them and on a couple of Wii2HDMI pcb's

Never thought of what they are actually I've seen some of those 3D printed Ideas, but I got the idea that it would be quicker to bend a pice of metall to a bracket and solder it to the HDMI housing and fasten it with the AV port screws, since I don't have neither a 3D printer or program to make such things How are you switching Mode when having both tye AV port and Wii2HDMI adapter? Using a DPST switch to bridge the Component output points?

To be honest, I soldered mine towards the Conexant chip on the pictures a couple of post back,, Xcalibur maybe it is called in my 1.6, I don't remember the name,, maybe that was the problem with my installation I thought it could have something to do with internal fields interference. I thought it maybe had better/cleaner signal before the resistors and that the Wii2HDMI internal components took care of the more pure component signals.

Woops, sorry, I seem to have double quoted

Yes, I can only tell from the AV pinout schematic, but I jumped a pin when counting, so I missed one. Jaywalk101, search for "Wii2HDMI Retro Pro Frank" and you should find a very clear schematics over how to connect you Mode switches, that's how I found where I missed a pin, I don't know how they are on the MB itself, but you could always solder jumpers underneat the AV port pins. I have a 1.6 I made an internal Wii2HDMI mod in, but it still hade some wave lines, maybe to much interference inside for it to work flawlessly, so I removed all cables and the HDMI board and resoldered the origiginal AV port back,, going to make a AV plug-HDMI of that board insted, seems to work much better.

I remember reading in some forum, I don't know if it is on one of those that are lost in time, that 10F seemed to be popular value fore those who replaced it back then, could keep the time for a week or two, if it is chargeing when the powercord is connected, 2-3 days would pass on by quickly. This is just a big theory,, but I wonder if there exists a small 5v driven 2.4v chargeing PCB that could work like a controller with positive output switch/relay? Instead of that the Cap circuit would have to try to recharge the batterypack. Then there maybe wold be the posibility to solder it to a 5v line in the console that recharge a small 2.4v NiMh battery pack or equivalent while powercord is connected, with the positive from batterypack switched off to the Cap connector positive point as long as the chargeing controller PCB has power, and when the 5v is turned off it switches to let the positive from battery pack to the Cap connector positive point? I don't know if the curcuit on the MB would handle to have a 2.4v battery pack connected to it via the Cap connector while a batterypack is being recharged. I just overthink simple things, but that would be an overkill cap replacement that would last for weeks and weeks, and keep thoughts of leaking cap and trace corrosion miles away for some years. The only cons I can think of is that NiMh don't seems to like to be stored uncharged for a period of time.

It seems like 283-2776-ND 604-1034-ND 604-1149-ND should work. I wish we had those prices in north of Europe you can take those prices x5-6 for one of those caps here. Well, sorry to say, but I am not going to re-wire the house to be able to move my consoles around, and I don't goint to drag a miles long ethernet cable if I take it with me to some friends. The 1.6 consoles won't even start unless the clock caps are in place, so I just wan't to stick to the topic, what the best / most effective clock cap replacement could be now in 2020.

Yes, that's true, did that sometimes through XBMC, but since I move my console from room to room sometimes and don't want to drag an 20m network cable back and forth. I am just a sucker for original/stock , so I would like to just have it working as it was originally intended, but with upgraded capacity with more modern components, since I just move it sometimes without plugging in the power cord and it stays there a couple of days or a week. I don't know if there would be sufficient power for recharge to use NiMh AAA batteries, otherwise I seen that there is 100F-500F 2.7v caps, so I may give those a try.

Time passes by, so does the life of our OG Xbox Clock caps (if they are not removed already) but also technology in cap replacement options. So I wonder what the most Reasonable/ Convenient/ Easieast/ Safest/ Cost efficient/ Clock cap replacement of today could be? I know some people are not bothered without it and some people (lile myself) that would like to have it working Through the years I read that it can be everything inbetween replacing it with a 1F 2.5v original spec AeroGel cap, 10F 2.5v AeroGel for longer working time, a CR2032 battery socket with 1N4148 diod in series to prevent REcharge, which would not be good, 2.4v NiMh rechargable battery. My idea, not yet installed and tested, is to solder an AAA batteries socket with two 1.2v 800mA replaceable batteries to the old Clock Cap points and try to fit it in somewhere. The batteries gives 2.7v fully charged and would (theoretically, if the Xbox can give them enough charging) give more than enough unplugged power time and it would all in all cost around 5$. So now in 2020, what is your clock cap replacement (ideas, pictures, pros/cons, results)?

Problem with diagonal canvas lining solved, better late than never. I messed up and did not make jumpers right to enable MODE switching to HD/Component output, now picture is perfect without any noise or linings and it's really enjoyable to play

Now I hav twiddle around with all different settings. If I enable flicker filter in games settings on xbmc, games wont start,, If I enabled only 720/1080i then the picture is horrible in games. If I choose 1080i only in settings/appereance in xbmc settings and forces Lauch 60-pal in game setting and then launches a game, the picture is better with less vertical ripples lineing, it still comes and goes, but it's dissapearing more often and I get a clear (component) picture. So could it be because of the adapter model? A real cheap made, non advanced converter Chip, bad upscaling etc? It was this model,, non goldplated hdmi socket and a tiny hole under the hdmi socket that has no function.

Now I have measured the points,, on the v1.6 with internal montage, it's 75,5 Ohm, soldered on the right side of the resistors on the MB. The other v1.1 seems to only have 38 Ohm resistors on the MB, but measures only 75,5 Ohm on the wii2hdmi pcb after the resistors there. So nothing seems to be strange when it comes to the Ohm from point A to point B.

Here is another one I have, from 2013, v6 with chip MST6M182VG-LF-Z1 if I can see the small text correctly,, but this one I have had for years in my Wii console, so that's why I bought 2 new ones to disect for the xboxes.

I can upload a photo of the Wii2hdmi pcb model,, I know there are a lot of different variants of them,, this is Jade Empire,, the same "canvas" lineing. The chip is a MS9288A, and that's almost all there is except the voltage regulator and resistors.

The one I mounted inside one of the consoles I wired on top of the MB on the resistor side inwards the xbox, away from the AV connector,, I think that is before the resistors on their way to the AV connector? and the 5v is taken directly from a 5v line on the MB. But the picture is still the same on both the built in and outside console,, the one with built in is a v1.6 and the other one is a v1.1.