Hi all,
I've recently decided to get back into the Xbox scene again after quite a few years. I'd seen that the OpenXenium modchip was one of the easiest and most up to date chips so I bought one to fit into my 1.6 crystal. I decided on using an LPC board instead of choosing a wired install but I found it really clunky, and was having trouble getting it to boot. I decided, after numerous attempts to get things running, to remove the board and wire up instead.
I have checked the joints and checked the board for spatter, removing what I can as and when I come across it. I'm now sitting without any modchip, checking to see if it works as stock again, only to be greeted with a frag. No matter what I've done from here has been the same result
 
Could any of you direct me here and let me know of any possible fix. I've taken pictures of the board. Please let me know if you need any more info. I had to upload them to some image uoad site as the files were too large, so here they are as URLs below. Thanks
 
Images
https://ibb.co/09TyX0J
https://ibb.co/jMRd4LW
 
 
 

Hi, I am just wondering if anyone with more experience than me can tell me how bad this looks or about any diagnosis clues I can be aware of. The first XBOX I found on ebay last year was surprisingly not modded and I guessed it might be a 1.0. Because of that I didn't want to mod it or open it so I bought another cheap one that had already been opened. I had some fun with that one then I gave it away. In the meantime that 1.0 was calling my name and I bit the bullet and opened it up. Softmod went fine of course. HDD upgrade went fine. Then I wanted to try something more interesting. I looked up the RAM upgrade and it didn't look too bad. That actually went smooth. Luckily the 1.0 is the least work to short circuit the TSOP. So TSOP flash and 128MB RAM was working. I kind of surprised myself. I was fumbling around not really thinking through things and I wanted to see if I could flash an original BIOS back to it. That was the end of the fun for me. After the flash it reboots and goes into the blinking red. I realized the BIOS probably didn't like having 128MB RAM so I used my heat gut to remove my just added RAM. That wasn't it. I knew it I had a big project ahead of me. That was when I found the Open Xenium modchip that apparently is supposed to divert the boot to it's own BIOS. Hence my question in this forum. 
I didn't see how I was going to remove all that solder from the LPC ports with a solder braid or any other way for that matter. I realized I might be able to use my heat gun again. I had some bad luck and didn't realize how hot I was getting my board in the process either. I almost lost 3 components all together but I managed to get 2 of them back on. I circled the remaining problems in my pictures below. Is any of this repairable? The Open Xenium chip makes it to a red LED but XBOX still only boots to the blinking red lights. I was pretty happy with my soldering of the wire but not so happy with my soldering of the LPC jumpers. The board took some damage. From what the pictures say is this beyond repair? If the Open Xenium chip is making it to a red LED am I close?
Thanks all you smart folks!

So i have got an xbox revision 1.0 for parts. Inside the motherboard was pretty much immaculate with non-leaked clock cap. Sadly the xbox just FRAGged. I did lots of troubleshooting including dumping the eeprom with raspberry pi, testing it with different psu or trying the TSOP bank split trick for coma console.
I thought, that the TSOP must be faulty so i ordered aladdin xt. However the holes on 1.0 are filled with solder and hard to clean up. In the end, i soldered each leg of the pinheader individually. It looks ugly, but there are at least pretty wet solder joints and modchips do fit in it. Sadly it still frags.
Images:


I have:
1. Grounded the bottom d0 point
2. Grounded BT on the aladdin
3. Tested the aladdin in my 1.6 and then reflashing it with indbios
4.  Replaced a R7D4 resistor i accidentally desoldered
I also remember, there was possibly a short at Q7R1 part. I fixed it, but two pins next to each other are still shorted according to multimeter. The two pins are those closest to the Q in the Q7R1 marking (left down side on the bottom side picture)