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    • By Zer0_1Sum
      Couple of days ago I decided to try repair my xbox which has been sitting on my shelf for at least 15 years after dying suddenly. I opened up a thread on reddit here, and chatted with KaosEngineeer over there.
      To sum up the current situation:
      -The xbox is unresponsive when pressing eject and power button, no sign of life. Back in the days it was repaired under warranty (substitution of the PSU) and then repaired and modded with Aladdin and Evo X.
      -Opening it up I noticed that the clock capacitor had leaked, but seemingly not caused any corrosion. I removed the cap and cleaned up with isopropyl  alcohol.
      - I tried checking the PSU and it seems to work, giving out 3.3 Volts on the standby contact (brown in my case). I tried short circuiting the standby with the PowON (white) contact by using a piece of wire metal, and I verified that the lines (orange, red and yellow) are more or less in line with the pinout (instead of being 5 Volts there are 5.27 Volts and instead of 12 Volts there are 10.73 Volts).

      - I checked both visually and with a multimeter that the 4 traces under the motherboard are uninterrupted. In particular, looking at this image:

      There is continuity between the cyan and violet pins on the PIC chip and the cyan and violet contact in the bottom of the image. The 4 resistances in the same image seem to work fine, with a value of about 10 kOhm each.
      -I checked that the front panel eject and power button work by verifying that, when pressed, they connect to ground the red and blue traces next to the 10kOhm signal resistances.
      -Now, the stangest thing: if  I give power, the brown contact is at 3.3 volts (verified while the psu is attached to the motherboard by inserting the multimeter probe in the top space between the plastic plug and the brown wire), but for some reason the PIC pins that should have the same voltage when the console is plugged (before and after pressing the eject and power button) remain at 0 Volt no matter if I press the front panel buttons or not and no matter if I choose a different point for ground ( I tried using all the black cables and the RF cage).
      So, basically I'm stuck. Any ideas?
      Thank you for help
    • By SpecFour
      This showed up on my local Craigslist and I picked it up.  It's one of those 2TB jobbers.
      I've never had an Xbox so I've learned quite a bit in the past 10 days.  I still haven't figured out if it is a 1.0 or a 1.1.  No fan on the heatsink, but unleashedX is telling me it is 1.0.  I'm not sure it matters to figure that out.
      The question is - does this pic show evidence of TSOP?  I haven't pulled the mobo out to see of there is something similar at R7R3.  Also, my C drive has a folder called bios and it sure looks like it has bios images in it.  As far as I can tell so far, those are useless with a softmod?  Is there another way to tell the difference between a softmod and TSOP?  (Which I believe means there was a softmod that was in place before the TSOP?)
      There is no modchip.  That's about all I know for absolute certain.
      Thank you!

    • By gears_fan
      Hello guys,
      This post will be somewhat long because I want to include as much relevant information as possible. 
      I have a v1.1 NTSC-U Xbox console, which I purchased brand new back in 2003. I modded it with a Xecuter 2.0 Pro mod chip sometime around 2004. It worked great for 2-3 years with no issues whatsoever. Then, out of nowhere, it started to intermittently FRAG. Sometimes it would boot just fine, but other times the Xbox would flash red and green and require me to reboot it 10 times in a row before it would boot to dashboard. Also, sometimes the Xbox would boot just fine and work for 2-3 hours straight and then, for no apparent reason, lose the video output. Interestingly enough, it would lose the video output only, but not audio. 
      I tried different BIOS versions as well as different banks on the Xecuter 2.0 mod chip, but to no avail. After all that, I decided that it was too much trouble and just stopped using this FRAGging Xbox. 
      Fast forward to 2020, and I decided to connect this old v1.1 Xbox to my TV and test it out. It worked great for the first two weeks, but then started FRAGging just like 14 years ago. It behaves exactly the same way as it used to – it might boot just fine 10 times in a row, or it might FRAG 20 times in a row. I reflashed the BIOS again, but to no avail. 
      I also noticed a few more things. First, the removal of the DVD drive and/or hard drive does not seem to affect the FRAGging at all. The console can still FRAG with both drives completely disconnected. 
      Also, if the Xbox boots to dashboard with no issues, I can easily make it lose the video output by knocking on the table on which the Xbox is sitting or by touching the AV cable. If I reboot the console immediately after that, the Xbox would usually FRAG. Bad AV cable, right? Nope. I tried four different AV cables/adapters and this is happening with all of them. All said cables work perfectly with my v1.0 Xbox and no amount of knocking on the table or touching the cables can make this second Xbox lose the video output. 
      Here is the list of AV cables that I tried with the same result (i.e. intermittent FRAGging on my v1.1 Xbox and no issues on my v1.0 Xbox):
      1. OEM Microsoft Composite cable
      2. OEM Microsoft AV pack
      3. OEM Microsoft HD AV pack
      4. Third party HD AV pack
      Here are a few more things that I did:
      * Sprayed the AV connector in the Xbox with DeoxIT D5 and inspected it for damage
      * Reflowed all solder joints on the AV connector, twice
      * Inspected the traces on the motherboard near the AV connector
      Here is a list of things that I could still do (but would rather not):
      * Stop relying on the AV connector. Instead, solder the wires to it and add component video and coaxial audio jacks to the back of the Xbox console. Unfortunately, there is no guarantee that this will solve the FRAG issue. 
      This Xbox was used by an adult and was never dropped or abused.
      At this point, I am not sure what else I can do besides soldering wires to the AV port and adding audio and video output jacks to the back of the Xbox. Does anyone have any idea of what might be happening? 
      P.S. The pictures of the motherboard are attached to this post.  

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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