NetizenZ Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 Hello everyone, I'm starting this topic because I have some issues with my Duke controller. The screen was scrolling itself, so my first thought was : the stick is dead. I tried to tear down my controller cleaning it very well with alcohol, trying again, same issue. I did tear down an 'under control' brand controller, took the stick, soldered it to the Duke controller. Same issue. I took out again the stick, and tried the controller with absolutly no left stick, and it still had the issue ! I turned on my xbox, the menu was scrolling down. So the main issue doesn't obvilously come from the stick itself. But what can cause that? I will post few pictures of the board of the controller, if you see something than I don't. Also, some soldering points on the stick emplacement on the circuit aren't "metal color" anymore, and it doesn't solder properly. How can I fix that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prtscn Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 Dude, you have lifted pads. Cracked or scraped board. But it's very repairable. You need to solder both analog stick correctly, otherwise you will get such behavior. Pontentiometers are interconnected so if one is not soldered correctly chip gets wrong value which is not corresponding to analog stick position and you get this drift. You use cheap soldering tool - too hot. Also, tip must be smooth, no sharp edges. I marked what's wrong. Also double check other analog stick if it's correctly soldered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NetizenZ Posted April 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 I can parameter the temperature of my soldering station, but it was maybe too high... I'm still learning. I'm gonna check the continuity in few hours once work's done and I'm gonna give you more informations. Thanks for your picture ! Also, we can see on the stick soldering points, it seems it's burned. Is it fixable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prtscn Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NetizenZ Posted April 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 Thanks I watched the video ! Well explained, even if it's in Spanish and I don't get all of it. I'm gonna try later and keep you in touch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prtscn Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 12 minutes ago, NetizenZ said: Thanks I watched the video ! Well explained, even if it's in Spanish and I don't get all of it. I'm gonna try later and keep you in touch I marked points in the picture, and you just solder jump wires to make connection. You can solder it to test point or scrape protective layer of copper trace and solder directly to it. Video is example of technique how to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NetizenZ Posted April 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 Okay so all the pins you pointed out on the picture are correct, they makes contact. But almost all of them are incorrect on the right side. Let's try to link them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NetizenZ Posted April 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 here I am now. Without my drawings (maybe cleaner to see) The motherboard isn't very clean but it's second hand, and I'm kinda beginning soldering. Legend : Blue = connection was made Red = should I make the connection ? Those pins need to be connected ? Yellow = what is the purpose of those points ? Are they useless ? If not, where should I connect them ? Did I miss anything on your picture ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NetizenZ Posted April 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2020 Hi, that's my final result. I know, the cable that goes to the right is attached to the wrong pin, I corrected that. So I attached to the third pin of the 3 of the right. The buttons don't work, nothing work, and the second I turn on the xbox, the rumble motors are vibrating. But, the stick isn't moving straight to the down anymore. This issue is "fixed" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prtscn Posted April 29, 2020 Report Share Posted April 29, 2020 (edited) Edited April 29, 2020 by prtscn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prtscn Posted April 29, 2020 Report Share Posted April 29, 2020 remove wires with orange (X) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NetizenZ Posted April 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2020 Hi ! Thanks again for taking the time to answer ! I really appreciate. So here is the situation now. It's unchanged. I made the modifications you told me, and the result is the same. The rumble motors are shaking, and it doesn't work. I took a photo to show you the soldering points, and a video showing the result. Don't mind the mess, I turned my gaming room in a "lab" to repair my controller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prtscn Posted April 29, 2020 Report Share Posted April 29, 2020 You probably damaged IC chip when you connected those two wires where i marked. Because you literally shorted to ground a power rail. And middle button has it's own rail and you connected it to shorted power rail too. Do other controller functions work? Do you have softmod so you can test controller with "controller test" app? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NetizenZ Posted April 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2020 No I don't think other functions work... damn. No it's not softmoded yet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NetizenZ Posted April 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2020 (edited) Well, here I am now. I reaoldered few points that apparently needed. And it seems the rumble motors don't shake now. Here are few pictures of my modifications. Everything here seem now normal. There is no more pressure on the cables. But, I had the idea to test the cable and here is the current situation. Is that normal? White and green cable doesn't seem to be connected to this port. and black and "gray" are connected to the same, is that the ground ? Last question for now : what precisely those pins are supposed to be connected? I think they now have an issue... maybe desoldering them and solder them again. this ? Edited April 29, 2020 by NetizenZ modification Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prtscn Posted April 29, 2020 Report Share Posted April 29, 2020 (edited) Does your controller now work? I will get the last question, when i know if the controller is working. Edited April 29, 2020 by prtscn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prtscn Posted April 29, 2020 Report Share Posted April 29, 2020 what temperature do you use for soldering. In the video thumbnail i can see lifted pads on the right stick, in the video is to the left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NetizenZ Posted April 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 Well, I solder at about 310° Celsius, or 600 Fahrenheit. But when you made me a comment telling me I did too hot, it was 450 Celsius. And nope, the controller doesn't seem to work, I don't know why but the rumble motors started doing their thing again.. I think unfortunately that's a dead controller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prtscn Posted May 1, 2020 Report Share Posted May 1, 2020 10 hours ago, NetizenZ said: Well, I solder at about 310° Celsius, or 600 Fahrenheit. But when you made me a comment telling me I did too hot, it was 450 Celsius. And nope, the controller doesn't seem to work, I don't know why but the rumble motors started doing their thing again.. I think unfortunately that's a dead controller. Damn. temperature about 180C for such application. Way, way too much... Technically you can still repair it. Practically not worth it, use it for spare parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NetizenZ Posted May 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2020 7 hours ago, prtscn said: Damn. temperature about 180C for such application. Way, way too much... Technically you can still repair it. Practically not worth it, use it for spare parts. Now I'm gonna change the temperature.. How without changing parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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