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Found 5 results

  1. I acquired a 1.4 that had been TSOP'd at some point with a 120gb HDD. Something is buggy with the TSOP that I can't update or change the BIOS so I put it a Open Xenium that I had here. It powers on as it should and works normally except when I try to reboot it. It'll power up green at first and then start flashing red with no video. I'm assuming it's needing the caps replaced, although the 3 in front of the CPU & GPU seemed to have been replaced already as they are different than the rest (blue with gold stripe & writing). Any other suggestions before I start replacing all the caps?
  2. Please see link to 10 images of board here https://imgur.com/a/nJotOX1 The machine in question is a v1.0 with fresh electrolytic capacitors installed everywhere a few weeks ago aside from the power supply (Foxlink, with resoldered power leads). It also has an Aladdin mod chip which I was running Cerbios 2.2.0 beta on previously. After successfully upgrading the RAM on a v1.4 machine yesterday I decided to do my primary xbox today. RAM in question is the leaded F-QC50 variant. They appear entirely to be authentic Samsung chips. With XBlast OS flashed to the mod chip, I began with the RAM install. First chip, test, success. Second chip, test, fail. Quick rework and second passes. Then I decide to do the last two together and test afterwards. Test shows 1-3 pass, number 4 fails. This is the one below the CPU and next to the connector from the power supply. Rework number 4 with an iron, not hot air, still fails, rework it again, still fails. Go for a third try and now the Xbox will momentarily boot with solid green LEDs (hard disk spins up, fans spin normal speed, LED on mod chip illuminates) then quickly cuts power. Then will turn itself on again about a second later, usually with no LEDs on the eject button, fans spin normally, LED on mod chip lights, then power cuts out. There is no display. I also swapped in a known good power supply from a different v1.0 and no difference was made. This cycle appears to repeat indefinitely. Sometimes the LEDs on the eject button light up green, sometimes they flash green, other times there is no light at all. I have tried with no disc drive and no hard disk, with just one of those, and with both of them. I removed the fourth RAM chip in an attempt to rule out the chip itself, however the same result ensues. I then removed a factory RAM chip (M-QC50) from a known good console and installed that in the fourth slot, no change. I ended up removing that chip so only ones that passed the test in XBlast are installed. I know it is possible for the chip to be bad, yet still pass. I took the utmost care not to “splash solder” around while installing and/or removing the memory. I taped up the surrounding areas of the board and components with kapton tape before performing any work with hot air or an iron. High quality flux was used and cleaned up. I examined the board thoroughly multiple times and I cannot physically see an issue. Using hot air I carefully reflowed the factory RAM as well as the three that I added. My question mainly is where should I be looking for a solution to this issue? This is not the typical 3 reboots then FRAG problem. Is there a power related component I should be looking at? Any help is greatly appreciated.
  3. Hi all, I had originally posted in softmods regarding a softmodded Xbox that would throw an Error 07 whenever booting from a newly cloned drive. Now, I can't even boot properly into the dashboard with the original HDD because it will just reboot constantly so I think this part of my problem might be more at home here. Revision is a 1.1 (Kernel 4817). Softmodded with Rocky5's Softmodding tool (use SC Pal save exploit from a USB stick) - all went flawlessly. Before putting the xbox all together, I thought I'd clean the underside of the motherboard and while I was at it, remove the old thermal paste and repaste. I used a hair dryer on low with a couple of temp spikes to speed up the process on the GPU. After my problems with the new cloned drive, I gave up and thought I'd just use the console as is for now, cause I can still play my physical games. However, I'm confronted with a new problem : It will do the boot animation and then 2 scenarii : 1) If I'm on my new Tv with my component cable (had to resolder everything cause I misinterpreted the schematics as being from the back but it now works properly as I see the boot sequence -s can this badly soldered cable have shorted omething?) : I get a black screen with the occasional flicker. 2) Now, on my LCD PC monitor I'll have either a) it boots and I can go about the menu and all, played a game (too scratched to really start but menu was there, buggy music but working). or b) the picture flickers and I catch a glimpse of the boot menu for a split sec and it disappears. I tried going to applications and enigmah to change it back to pal, but my monitor seems unbothered by that (recognises ntsc fine) and every time I press down, thinking I'll be in applications, next flicker I see of the menu, it's back at the top, meaning it's actually rebooted in the meantime. Here's a video to visualise it : https://imgur.com/a/EmA5mmy I've managed to have a stable boot and changed Enigmah back to Pal to be on the safe side. Now, I checked for continuity on all traces, on MadMartigan's advice, and they beep effortlessly. Here is a pic of both sides. I know top looks pretty gnarly but all was cleaned with 90% alcohol and cotton swabs. I didn't scrub it though. https://imgur.com/a/y72odPm The little transistor O7G1, right from the original clock cap on the second picture, looks a bit weird at the pads. Could this play a part? How would I test it? Thanks in advance for your insights and time! Cheers
  4. Hey guys! So 2 quick questions here. Recently got my 1.6 with the red modchip installed, flashed and working with F and G on a new hdd. Works great. Problem is when I do the 2 triggers plus back and start to reboot, it frags. Power down and back up again and we are golden. Any ideas? Also. Got a v1.0 Xbox and removed the clock capacitor.l for safety. After I removed it the Xbox refused to boot anymore. Literally does the reboot 3 times then frags thing. Any thoughts? thanks!
  5. Hi I have a PAL 1.6 xbox that I've recently rebuilt the LPC, added a Aladdin xt+2 modchip to and upgraded the hard drive with a larger 2tb. the system runs fine in SD via the standard AV cable (RED/WHITE/YELLOW lead) once I switch the console over to NTSC video settings and reboot the console with a component lead it switches to 1080i or 720p fine but will randomly reboot. Has anybody come across this before and know a fix? Thanks in advance

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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