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Found 5 results

  1. So I was working on my Halo Edition 1.4 board and was trying to test my XBlast from @Dtomcat18 so I could make sure for my own diagnostic peace of mind that it wasn't the problem. I must have reflowed my pin header soldering 5 times. I didn't think it was the issue... I put it in my black coma console (that I got my 1st Halo console's 1.6 board from, but now contained the 1.4 that was in... One of my Halo consoles. I don't remember which.) Coma board was a 1.4. Soldered the TSOP in 5 minutes. Used the chip's D0. Light glowed green on the first try. I was like, okay the chip is good. However it was still booting one time out of ten (usually after being plugged into mains) like a typical bitch-ass coma board, and when it did, it was booting to the stock bios. So I was like, "Okay, this chip is getting power, but the LPC is not being hit up for a bios." So I decided to try to ground D0. BAM. Booted to XBlastOS... Repeatedly. The coma was gone! ...
  2. Hi! I got an xbox 1.4 in Coma(black screen without sound),with modchip it works only with Cromwell, XBlast or iND-Bios(loading screen), but doesn’t recognize HDD... I’ve another two 1.4 scrap, one has dead GPU and another Fragged(stock / maybe trace corrosion)... Any repair suggestion? Thanks in advance!
  3. Hey guys, just wondering if someone could confirm a suspicion of mine. So a while ago I dug out my old OG Xbox (V1.3 I believe) and found it wasn't working, it would switch on for a couple seconds then power off again. Did some research and found that the dreaded clock cap had leaked and one of the traces on the back was broken. So I removed the motherboard with the intention of repairing it, but then life got in the way and I didn't have the time so it sat in pieces for the best part of a year before I found the time to fix it. So I managed to remove the clock cap and clean the board, then I jumped the broken trace with a wire between the test points. (All good there, no shorts that I could find) I also changed the thermal paste on the GPU and CPU to Arctic MX4 while I was at it. So I put it all back together again, plugged it into my old SCART tv, it turns on from the power button fine, has a solid green light, you can hear the hard drive starting up too (still has the original in it right now) but there is no audio or video output to the tv. I tried a different AV cable but got the same result, and I know the tv is good cause my Sega Saturn works fine through the SCART. Also worth mentioning that the DVD drive (Samsung) won't open by it's self. I cleaned up the belt and greased the slides but same result. I tried it with the top of the DVD drive off so I could see and it looks like the laser moves about like it wants to open but the motor makes no attempt to spin up. So in short I have a V1.3 Xbox that shows a solid green light, No video, No audio and the DVD drive doesn't open. From what I've read on here so far it sounds like I may have a corrupt BIOS/coma console on my hands (though I heard V1.0 and V1.1 were more prone to that). What do you guys think?
  4. i tried this fix https://web.archive.org/web/20090203223828/http://www.llamma.com/xbox/Repairs/ComaConsole.htm and it changed nothing. i've heard a mod chip would work. can anyone give me info on this? preferably a cheap one since i don't even know if the xbox is any good.
  5. i recently obtained a broken xbox and i'm having 2 weird problems with it. (not the weird part)1st off, the power supply had a bad solder joint that i fixed so now the system powers on. (weird parts) 1. there is no picture on the tv screen at all even though the the eject button light turns solid green telling me that it detects the a/v cable. it flashes green/orange when the a/v cable is unplugged. but there is absolutely no change on the tv screen. 2. the disk drive does not eject even though i can take the top off of the drive and see the spindle turn and the laser move reacting to me pressing the eject button. i know a stuck dvd drive tray isn't uncommon on these system but i have tried 2 different drives in it that eject fine in another xbox. the only change i have made to the mobo is that i removed the clock cap which appeared to not even have leaked onto the mobo yet(i did this before testing the xbox which i wish i wouldn't have). the system also has mild rust on the tray underneath the mobo which suggest it's had moisture in it(even the dvd laser has rust on the metal around the laser lens). btw, it's a version 1.0 xbox. any idea what the heck is wrong with it? thanks for any advice.

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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