DobaMuffin
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Posts posted by DobaMuffin
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I only have an x2.6 installed on a 1.6 motherboard, and I highly doubt it would boot up on it, so I'll have to wait until my tsop socket and spare tsop flash chips come in to test it myself. Thanks for the information you've figured out so far. Hopefully, you figure out everything else you want to.
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1 hour ago, BaconWizard17 said:
Interesting. I didn't know that was possible. I do kinda like the aesthetic of the OG controller though
If you like the og controller aesthetic, I suggest looking/reading these 2 reddit posts for inspiration on modding original xbox controllers. This and this.
What seems to be the easiest is to use generic xbox controllers for their shells, and modifying everything else to fit into it properly. Though there doesn't seem to be a formal write up anywhere, so you may have to get creative.
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26 minutes ago, Zelg said:
Hi Yorxs! I just bought my first OG Xbox, I'm very excited! I managed to find a 1.6 one, seems really cool!
I still can´t solder, but I'm learning about other things you can do to enhance my box, like HDD replacement and cable upgrades.
Cheers, man!
Hi Zelg.
For softmods, you don't have to worry about soldering, but it is definitely a nice skill to have when it comes to modding this beast of a console. I wish you luck, and may you have a great time with your new original xbox.
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Hi KaosEngineer. Are there any limitations on this bios in terms of only specific modchips will boot it, or does it work with any modchip?
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21 minutes ago, bulkchart32 said:
what's the reason that u want to use a non oem psu?
I'm not the person you quoted, but I do have some possible insight into why.
OEM power supplies can get expensive sometimes, and they do fail from time to time. If a diy psu can be build for a decent price, and is stable and safe, then it is worth building. Whether for a system you have without a psu, or with a failed psu. Another possibility is if you are making a slim xbox build, then any space saved can make things easier.
Personally, I can only find original power supplies for about $30 CAD which is more than I've paid for pretty much any of my xbox systems. In my case, I'm interested in a diy power supply solution as it would save me quite a bit of money vs buying several power supplies to power the xbox motherboards I have at home.
And as always, as these consoles age, parts start to fail, and what stockpile of replacement parts there was start to shrink. By having new parts to replace the old failing parts, you help prolong the life of these consoles. I know that the xbox psu can be repaired most of the time by replacing the capacitors, but not everybody has the skills to do that, and sometimes the issue is more than just the capacitors.
So that's my insight into why, but judging by ttsgeb's first post, I'd say that they are looking for a more elegant solution to getting a cheap psu for the xbox instead of going the route of using a picoPSU.
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7 hours ago, ttsgeb said:
I just threw together revision 2, and still have the issue with the 5v line not producing any voltage. I'm not entirely sure what's going on, and I've been struggling to find the motivation to work on this project for a while. I also learned that I chose the transistors for controlling the power poorly, and picked new ones out that were supposed to be the same footprint, but they turned out to be about 30% larger, which makes them completely unworkable on this board. I'll have to look more into what happened there and apparently work on my datasheet reading skills.
I will see if I can create a design too, as I have a few xbox motherboards that need power supplies and I'd rather not buy a bunch of old psu's for them.
Reading datasheets can be tough sometimes, and we all make mistakes so no worries. Hopefully though, you gain valuable skills from this project. And good luck with trying to figure out the issue(s).
DobaMuffin
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On 6/19/2020 at 2:35 AM, ttsgeb said:
I found the problem: I made the footprint wrong. Good thing boards are cheap these days.
Any luck on the new boards?
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5 hours ago, ttsgeb said:
I found the problem: I made the footprint wrong. Good thing boards are cheap these days.
Lol. It's always something simple. Glad you could figure out the issue. Hopefully it's the only issue there was.
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22 minutes ago, ttsgeb said:
I have one of these kicking about somewhere that I can track down tonight and try to get a scan of what's going on, but I suspect it'll be more of nothing.
https://jyetech.com/dso-138-oscilloscope-diy-kit/Hopefully we can help you figure out what's wrong.
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31 minutes ago, ttsgeb said:
The datasheet said nothing about no-load shutoff, and I didn't build that into the circuit, but I gave it a try anyway.
No change. I'm still seeing nothing from the 5v and perfect behavior from 3v3. I'll make sure to have a load connected on my second build before powering it up, though.Do you have an oscilloscope available to you so that you can see what the 5v line looks like?
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7 minutes ago, ttsgeb said:
The datasheet said nothing about no-load shutoff, and I didn't build that into the circuit, but I gave it a try anyway.
No change. I'm still seeing nothing from the 5v and perfect behavior from 3v3. I'll make sure to have a load connected on my second build before powering it up, though.What part did you use for the 5v circuit?
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On 6/5/2020 at 7:58 PM, ttsgeb said:
I'll be ordering a replacement chip and a components kit to build a second one tonight. Hopefully this time next week, I'll have a working board.
Any luck with the new parts?
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Looking through the files, there is also documentation relating to the xbox in the form of PDFs which go into detail about various parts of the hardware. located here. There is also pictures of what looks to be hardware designed for the lpc bus. Here and also this.
I've also seen some source code to xbox programs hidden away in some archives like UnrarX2.rar.
I've also found photos of some very sweet looking avalaunch themed xboxs. Here and a few in this folder like this and this.
So while I am not too sure why they put all this online for anyone to see, I can say for sure that there is some interesting things hidden through out.
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5 minutes ago, KaosEngineer said:
http://www.crusaders.no/~joker/old_web/avalaunch/index.htm
Just shows information about AvaLaunch's features.
At least, that is all I have found.
I don't know if there's source code per say, but there seems to be an awful lot of Xbox executables hidden in archives although out.
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Hello,
Whenever I get interested in a new subject, I always do a deep dive to find all sorts of information on it, and the Xbox is no different. Well while searching for a datasheet of the Xbox mcpx chip, I stumbled upon a bunch of files. Some are seemingly random, while other have to do with Avalaunch development, or pictures and files of xbox hardware. I don't know if much of the files or pictures are particularly helpful, but I find them interesting if nothing else.
Here is the website in question: http://www.crusaders.no/~joker/old_web/
Maybe someone can figure out what's relevant for this community and combine it all together.
DobaMuffin
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On 5/30/2020 at 1:02 AM, Saturnplanet5 said:
Hi, new here. Hope to learn some tricks.
I'd suggest to take a look around the forums and read a few of the posts to see if any of the information is interesting for you. I guess it also depends on what you want to do, and what you're looking to get out of your xbox. Do you want to softmod it or hardmod it? Play games, or code programs? It really depends on what you want to do, as to where to start learning new tricks.
16 minutes ago, Stimpy777 said:Same goes for me, but this site seems pretty complete
From what I've seen of this site, it is pretty complete overall. There is certainly lots of interesting, and sometimes obscure information hidden away if you know where to look. I suggest looking at what interests you in the forums.
And both of you, welcome to this community.
DobaMuffin
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Hello,
I am looking at making a few of these for myself, and I'm wondering if anybody here has used one, or anything similar to it? I'm not familiar with kernel debugging using Super I/O, but it seems like something that could be useful if I want to learn all I can from the hardware of this system.
DobaMuffin
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On 1/6/2020 at 9:55 PM, r3dback said:
I was lucky enough to pick up a crystal Xbox for $5 at flea market.
Mine ended up costing me 60 CAD, and I got lucky because I was the first person to setup a time to meet up so that I could purchase it. Luckily it had never been opened, and by seeing if it had the extra screw post or not, I found out it was a 1.6 so I left it as is for now. Don't know when I'll open it up, but its not too big of a concern for me.
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1 hour ago, ttsgeb said:
Idk. Bob has a nice ring to it.
I'll be ordering a replacement chip and a components kit to build a second one tonight. Hopefully this time next week, I'll have a working board.I like that idea. First revision "Rev Bob". Definitely something that would be memorable.
I look forward to the update for the next attempt.
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4 hours ago, ttsgeb said:
Boards came in today
Assembled and tested, the 3v3 line works as expected, but the 5v line doesn't work at all. I'm assuming it's due to a poorly aligned chip that I didn't notice until after I plugged it in. I re-aligned the chip and the problem got worse. I'm pretty sure that chip is fried.
I also ran into a problem with the power jack, apparently either I read the datasheet wrong, or the datasheet was wrong. Either way, I had to solder a pigtail jack on to get power to the board.That sucks. Hopefully it is just a fried chip, and not a board issue. But I guess that's part of the whole process of designing a board like that.
When all is said and done, what will you call the first released board revision?
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1 hour ago, SS_Dave said:
The mod in theory makes sense but looking at the diagram it looks like it's a waste of time as approx 1/3 of the current been drawn on the Lframe by the mod chip is from the pull up resistor any way.
And how many Xbox's have you heard about dying from the Lframe been pulled to ground by the mod chip.
Also if it was such a big problem more people would be doing the same mod since that document was updated in 2005 you're probably the 3rd person I have heard trying to do the mod.
I my opinion restore the Xbox to the way it was before you modded the Lframe.
SS Dave
Soft modding is like masturbating, It get's the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
Personally I haven't heard of any that have failed from that, but I'm still new to Xbox modding. I may see about removing the resistor in the future, but since the console still works and the mod chip works to boot up custom bioses, it isn't a top priority.
I thank you and everyone else who commented on this thread for the help I've been given.
Sincerely,
DobaMuffin
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16 hours ago, KaosEngineer said:
Are you sure the D0 wire from the modchip is connected to the correct side of the cut/resistor you added to repair the LFRAME# trace cut?
I am sure. I connected it to the Xyclops side of the resistor just like in the diagram. I even tried putting it on either side of the smd pull up resistor that was already on the main board. That made no difference.
Thanks,
DobaMuffin
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4 hours ago, lostartz said:
Wow you really won big on the NBN lottery SS :). Yer 5G will turn unlimited in time im sure as all things go.
I did well staying up until like 8am, then I totally crashed until about 12.
I ended up buying another box to play with, they told me it was working 100%, when I got it home I found problems.
As soon as you plug in the power cable the xbox turns on. And then the eject and power buttons dont work at all.
I pulled everything off the board except the fan and plugged in the power and still the same.
Nemesis has been guiding me a little thanks man much appreciated.
I just need to figure this out. Also I dont solder very well now as shaky hands. I did see some post about soldering to points on top of the board instead. I would prefer this I think, but no clear pictures to guide me. Anyhow ill keep googling.
I just saw the N64 freak's for sale post, looks like his in england? I have a pound to play with for the time being anyhow.
right now i have enough things to play with and keep me busy.
I'm guessing that system still has its clock capacitor installed? If that's the case, and if it's a 1.0-1.5, you need to remove it. I see damaged traces in that photo you uploaded. If you repair the damaged traces, the console buttons should work again, but it also seems like there some corrosion at various points on that underside there. You'd want to gently clean that off. I'd say use a soft toothbrush and some isopropyl alcohol to gently clean it up.
As for the damaged traces, there are 2 methods to repair it. You can solder a short length of wire across where the breaks in the traces are, or you can solder a wire from the end of the trace where there's a via that goes through the board, and solder the other end of that wire to another via somewhere after the break in the trace. A multimeter is best to help with that too.
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5 minutes ago, HDShadow said:
What is "worked like normal?"
I have a v1.6 + Xecuter 2.6CE and normal with the chip off is - nothing. The HDD is unlocked so I get an Error 7.
The original retail HDD I used for years even after chipping was locked and with the chip off it would boot to stock MS dash. That is just as you would expect with what is essentially a retail state console underneath the chip installation. Are you sure it is not an issue with the switch array itself?
The BIOS I'm using in both banks are virtually the same modified but basically EvoX M8+ 1.6 137+ F&G. What BIOS is being used in this case?
By worked like normal, I mean before the mod to the LFrame trace, setting the switch to disable the modchip allowed me to boot up the console stock as if no modchip was installed. After the little hardware mod though where I cut LFrame and then soldered a resistor to reconnect LFrame properly, the board won't boot up with the modchip switch set to disabled. Instead it Frags. But if I remove the D0 wire that's connected to LFrame on the motherboard, the console boots stock properly.
The bioses I'm using on the mod chip are xecuter 2 5035, and m8+ 1.6. those work properly though.
16 hours ago, SS_Dave said:The D0 wire from the main board should be going to the D0 on the mod chip.
If your worried about it you can cut the Lframe trace but then you can not use the MS BIOS but I can't see why you would use the stock BIOS anyway.
I have a version 1.6 with a X3cp that I have had for over 10 years and had no problems with the D0 connected to the modchip.
I have not seen a warped main board are you sure that something is not between the board and case but if it's been like that for years straightening it now may cause a failure .
Cheers
SS Dave
The D0 wire on the modchip is connected to LFrame on the main board since it's installed in a 1.6.
The LFrame trace has been cut, but then I also installed a resistor to repair the LFrame trace so that the mcpx doesn't push too much current and fry itself eventually.
As for the warped main board, it was like that when I got it. So I have no clue what happened to it.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
XBox Psu Project
in Hardware Mods
Posted
I would still choose to purchase a new psu if proven to be stable and reliable over the old oem PSUs. Just something about not using old and used parts when new parts would cost about the same.
As for your BOM. What is costing you the most? The pcb's?