NeMesiS

Save yourselves the money and buy a $2 STMF030C8T6 Dev Board. STM32F030C8T6 ARM STM32 Minimum System Development Board Module For Arduino DIY KIT - AliExpress

Bahahahahahaaaaa..... What an absolute joke, no wait it's not April... Now he's charging $25usd/$39aud for a cut down STM32 addon board.

Hello @Konwektor I've been following your progress... I was able to put together a BlueRetro+OGX360 with what I had on hand inc. status LEDs. Tested with Series X controllers and found it having some problems, from what I understand this is a known issue. Seeing your forks definitely pointed toward you doing an internal 4x channel version. I assume you would be using USB switches or similar to select between Bluetooth and OGXbox Controller? Either way it seems we lose most of the functionality of the OGX360 particularly for wired controllers. The OGX360 can actually support the OGXbox Controllers, so many of the switching OGX360 designs on GitHub were unnecessary. If only we could retain full functionality of the OGX360 for wired controllers and switch between BlueRetro using Controller Port Detection. Be very interested in what your thoughts are on this. Cheers, Nem

XeniumGOLD Concept: Turns out you can get clear solder-mask with black core PCB. Using this method, I was able to put together a concept design. I added an extra layer for the top side to add some visuals. Used buried and blind vias to make things as clean as possible. However, doing all this would make the design very expensive.

Or you can get a device like the EMC2101... Adafruit EMC2101 I2C PC Fan Controller and Temperature Sensor [STEMMA QT / Qwiic] : ID 4808 : $5.50 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits

Definitely... Ryzee's SPI2PAR for an example: Ryzee119/spi2par2019: Open source recreation of the spi2par, a board that allowed you to use HD44780 compliant LCDs on the Xenium modchip for the OG Xbox (github.com)

Yes, it would be an interesting test to perform. Some blue smoke would go well with a crystal console This document was forwarded to me, I was told they found it on a Facebook group for console repairs. I can't even remember who gave this to me and that's about all I know. File attached... But it does have alotta handy information, the "SMC Fan Control" title stood out to me. Advanced_Repair_-_Xbox_PCBA_Repair_Technical_Training.pdf

XeniumICE Programmer: I had a lot of fun working on the python script for the "XeniumPGR". Above is a quick video demonstrating what I've done with it. Firstly, the script takes care of the button and all the LEDs since it was never fully implemented in the "Xenium-Programmer" code. The video starts with the RPi zero powered up with the script running. "Power" LED is now "Standby" LED to show when the script is ready. I start by showing the long press function for rebooting the RPi, to signal this the LED's cycle from left to right. Once the RPi boots up and the script is ready it will signal this by cycling the LEDs from right to left. I demonstrate that the modchip will only power up when plugged into the programmer in the correct orientation. Short pressing the button can start or stop running the flashing command "./xenium-programmer" The progress LED turns on whenever the flashing command is running. Getting the "passed" and "failed" LEDs to function as intended was difficult. I had to monitor the output of xenium-programmer for "ERROR" and "FAILED". If either of these two strings would appear it would be deemed as a "Fail". However, if the command completed without failing it would be deemed a "Pass"

XeniumICE Modchip: You can see that the XeniumICE modchip is only slightly larger than an Aladdin. Edge of the modchip lines up nicely with the edge of the motherboard. I'm very satisfied with how it turned out...

Introduction: All new XeniumICE modchip design inspired by the original Xenium GOLD. Edge connector for easy programming along with a purpose built XeniumPGR. Plenty of connectors to support further addons, RGB and LCD display as for example. Small and compact multilayer PCB design, only a little larger than an Aladdin modchip. The modchips in the above image are the prototypes, final design will have gold immersion (ENIG) finish and are currently in production. Coming soon...

SMC Fan Control Came across some OGXbox documentation and there seems to be a PWM pin (13) on the SMC. From what I can tell, PWM is converted to DC for the case fan. I hear that Cerbois supports AUTO fan control, it would be interested to see if we could control PWM fans in this way...

LoL... Thats more than me, I only really ever used 3DFillies until now... Like I got good quality form Sunlu but it's more about the workability of the filament and reducing the rate of failures... It really annoys me when a 10 plus hour print fails, cheap filament costs me more than it saves. I would easily pay an extra $10 or more per roll if I were to rarely get failed prints like I did with 3DFillies. I could start a 10 hour print and never check it with little to no concern. Or even print over night while I slept... With Sunlu I have to set my alarm every hour to make sure I remember to check the prints as I get distracted with other tasks... EDIT: Just ordered a roll of Polylite PLA+ Pro, so we'll find out soon.

Correct, you can email me over at: [email protected] Cheers... There was no difference between Polymaker PLA+ and cheaper PLA+? Nothing annoys me more than failed prints... I mostly want good bed adhesion and for it not to be too glossy. Don't forget I'm in Australia and my options are rather limited. Need to make sure I can find the same filament from alternative sources so I don't find myself in the same situation again. I really don't want to be spending the next 4 weeks trying out different filaments instead of printing these kits...

Special Offer I need to do a bit of fund raising for a number or reasons: 1 - Printers are starting to show signs of wear n tear and I should start stocking up on spares including some beds to suit PETG. 2 - Need to buy a bunch of filament to get back to printing again. 3 - And if possible, some extra funds towards PCB assembly. Considering that I won't be using Sunlu or 3DFillies anymore, I didn't want to charge full price for them... What's available: 8x Black Sunlu PLA+ inc. extra Blue faceplate 1x Green 3DFillies (old) inc. extra White faceplate 1x Blue 3DFillies (old) inc. extra White faceplate 1x Red 3DFillies (old) inc. extra White faceplate *$100aud plus shipping for a complete kit 2x Black 3DFillies (new) no extras *make me an offer Shipping: The kits have been pre-packed and come in at 600 grams You can use Postage Calculator to see what shipping will be, just put my postcode as "3000" Postage calculator & delivery times - Australia Post (auspost.com.au)

Filament After doing some research and checking out a number of reviews the "Polymaker" brands stands out to me as being premium filament. Bit more expensive but if it produces quality prints and makes my life easier during bulk printing then I'm happy to pay more... Currently undecided between the "Polylite PLA+ Pro" and the "Polylite PETG". I'm not currently setup for PETG and would need to buy some new beds as PETG will ruin my PEI beds so I might get a roll of the PLA+ Pro and do some prints to see how things turn out.

Filament Well... I received the new PLA+ formula by 3DFillies and they absolutely ruined in... Long story short, after testing with a roll I decided to return it for a refund. I have no idea why they would change the formula but as far as I'm concerned the filament I've been using for the past 3 plus yeas no longer exists. Tried to do a few prints using Sunlu since I was able to purchase it locally. I can get quality prints using this filament but it's such a pain to work with. Bed adhesion was a major problem, I had to keep the beds well calibrated and had to monitor the prints closely. This resulted in too many failed prints. Below is a comparison: Top = Sunlu - PLA+ Middle = 3DFilles - New PLA+ Formula Bottom = 3DFillies - Old PLA+ Formula

Thanks for everyone's support... Don't think I would be interested in doing something like that. I'll be addressing filament again soon... Keep in mind that there is plenty of vents along the PSU to exhaust hot air. The idea is that the cold air comes in through the vents on left hand side. Coming in through both above and below the HDD. Air should be able to circulate from below the HDD to the top. Then hot air is exhausted out the rear and right-hand side. EDIT: I'm sure cold air will also be coming in from below the faceplate. Would be cool is someone could test air flow using a smoke machine.

Thanks for everyone's overwhelming support... I've been quite for a while now, mostly because I've been very busy. However as soon as I get the chance I will be creating new threads for each project. Stay Tuned!

Sorry for the late reply, Yes, the HDD caddy will fit over the GPU fan on v1.0 motherboards just fine. ** For those that have been following the thread, I've starting selling "Dual Fan Upgrade Kits" quietly. For those that are interested, feel free in getting in contact with me... Cheers, Nem

Coming Soon: 3Dfillies Black PLA+ filament has now become available... I just ordered a box with 8x rolls of Black PLA+ and should expect it to arrive within a week. Upon arrival I will start printing off as many "Dual Fan Upgrade Kits" that I can before official release. In the meantime, I'll finish up a handful of prints for other projects and give the printers a once over.

Operating from Australia is probably my biggest disadvantage... Also as you can see above. While using the same slicer profile my prints do take longer to complete I put a ridiculous about of time into designing all of the pieces that make up the entire kit. Printing countless tests to see if things line up or didn't make contact with other parts of the console. Making the slightest of changes and test printing again to check fitment for further improvements. Honestly, I have no idea of how many hours I put into the designs, but it was a lot. Going back to your original response in regard to pricing, I have to factor in the following: Time spent on designs and printing (my time/labor cost money) Cost of printing setup (need to make back my investment) Replacement parts to maintain printers. (ongoing costs) Cost of electricity which isn't cheap ATM. (ongoing costs) Cost of filament and shipping materials. (ongoing costs) I'm sure I could come up with more, but you get the idea. There are a lot of factors that need to be considered. And I would like to make a profit somewhere in there, that I can use to go towards future projects. For example, saving up to possibly get my designs plastic mold injected. Doubt the guy that printed and shipped those pieces made much of a profit from $20 Hope this gives some insight to why pricing something can be difficult, especially if there are variables. Cheers, Nem

Sorry my pricing may be a bit expensive for you however I am always looking out for different ways to bring prices down & be more competitive. Would be interested in seeing which Thingiverse design and 3D printing service you're referring to, especially if it's in Australia. Cheers, Nem

Pricing: Now that we're getting close to officially releasing the "Dual Fan Kit" it's time to start thinking about price, which is more difficult than one might think. Charge too low and I risk undercutting myself or charge too much and no one will purchase it, so it's important to find a middle ground. I can only print these kits so fast, maybe on average one per 14 hour work day using 3x printers. What I've done in the past was to fluctuate the price of prints to help regulate my workload, instead of a fixed price there will be a price range. When stocks are low and demand is high the price will be in the higher range and vice versa for when stocks are high but demand is low. 3D printing all day, every day for long periods of time can really get a bit much as prints constantly need monitoring and the printers constantly need calibrating and maintenance. Sometimes it gets to the point where I just need a break from it.

Dual Fan Caddy: (continued) And the "Dual Fan Caddy" itself houses 2x 80x25mm fans. It was extremely difficult it getting everything lined up to the point it would fit into a console much like the original HDD caddy did. Many tolerances were very tight not allowing me to get too creative with the design, due to all of the restrictions. I was getting worried that I might not be able to get it to look good, but I managed to pull it off somehow (in my opinion) and the "Top Faceplate" was the cherry on top.

Dual Fan Caddy: The "Dual 80mm Fan Caddy" is split into a number of pieces to better suit 3D printing: "Top Faceplate", "Mounting Legs", "CPU/PSU Divider" and the "Dual Fan Caddy" itself. Again, this reduces the chance of failures and helps produce quality prints. The "Top Faceplate" is shaped to help direct airflow towards the 80mm fans and to act as a bit of a spacer for the RF shielding if one chooses to keep it. I decided to print the "Mounting Legs" separately as I figured this would be a point of weakness especially during shipping. The original HDD caddy had a "CPU/PSU Divider" on the underside of the caddy, I tried to replicate this with a piece that mounts directly to the motherboard.