NoobInDistress
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Posts posted by NoobInDistress
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11 hours ago, Mindaugas Petronis said:
you could have just bought a pal xbox, and then used enigmah videomode switch disk, which switches from pal to ntsc eeprom.
the psu doesn't determine the video output signal but the bios does.
in this case he was referring to 220V psu as many countries (in Europe all i think) use PAL and in conjunction with 220-240 Volt for the psu
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nvm - chipped it
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i hear you but my offer still is up in case you don't find a 220 psu.
i would part with my psu but it won't be of any help since it's not suitable for a v1.6.
on the other hand who said that you need to send your board and psu the day i send mine?
buying one on AE or ebay and shipping it to you will take as long as sending my stuff to you.
up to you
it's a 1.1 tsopped board with 220v psu
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so you got a v1.6 xbox with a 110V psu but you need a 220V psu, correct ?
i could offer a trade. i don't have a 220v psu for a 1.6 but for 1.2-1.4 (not sure atm but it's not v1.6) and I have the motherboard to it as well.
so if you send me your 1.6 110v psu and board I'll send you a v1.2-4 mobo with the matching 220v psu.
let me know what you think about it.
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can't do better pictures. what looks like some smudge in the last pic next to the solder actually is a reflection.
I had another v1.0 board today and tsop worked just fine with the same points soldered.
and like i stated: i do have continuity across the bridges. that's what puzzles me the most.
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hijacking here as it's the same topic although a different problem:
Softmod on v1.0 done and solder points for tsop applied.
starting hexen works fine until i want to flash and Hexen tells me that is can't access the tsop chip to erase and write.
soldered bridges have continuity to adjacent points(see orange lines)
clock cap is removed no traces corroded and in need of fixing .
any ideas or do I need to provide more info ?
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9 minutes ago, SS_Dave said:
Yes you can higher in voltage so from 6.3 volt to 10 volt is fine.
SS Dave
thank you
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can i replace 3300uF 6.3v capacitors with 3300uF 10v ones ?
got a 1.6 Halo box that is almost in prestine condition apart from being opened by me
and all 5 capacitors next to the mobo power connector are popped.
the only replacements I have at hand would be the aforementioned 10v ones that I
scavenged from a v1.2 board.
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first off: i'm not an expert but here's my two cents
looks like the D0 that you tried to solder to is gone completely. since it's not just a funny dot on the board but a thru-port (not sure of the correct term but it goes through the board and connect to the other side) there's a break in the connection now that possibly causes your xbox to stall.
i won't consider the board dead yet but it might be tricky to fix it
some smaller and solid wire might be a better choice in addition to a smaller or pointier tip on the solder iron.
if your solder iron can be regulated in heat i'd set it to somewhere between 360 and 380 (celsius). that's how i've set mine and although i'm not a pro i haven't burnned any pads or traces yet.
also i'd reflow/resolder the lpc pins on that matter to make better contact with the board since as of now the joints are a bit too sphericalbut should look like 'pyramid' rather.
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maybe this 'rebuild' project of the Spi2Par is of any interest:
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so ?
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i'd give it a thorough rub with isopropyl apart from the board though (wouldn't hurt it but ... )
since i'm a smoker myself it doesn't bother me. What bothers me are the xboxes that i've picked up recently and they're all reeking as if they've been drenched in febreze. can't smoke that much to neutralize that
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the capacitor (red circle) is know to leak and cause corrosion on the board.
Remove the broken cap by either jiggling it back and forth or unsolder. youtube is your friend if you need info on how to do it. once the pos-cap is gone wipe off the goo with vinegar and q-tips and clean the area with isopropyl.
no need to replace the cap as he xbox will run without it.
downside: you gotta set the clock manually or synchronize over the web
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found this on / thru Reddit
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8e-RNMxAYTzX0c0VV8yUi1IVXc/view
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although it's a bit confusing it makes perfect sense: RED led = write enabled, GREEN led = protected
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is this available still ?
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welcome.
ask questions you got and you won't be lost for long
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yeah, this Eeprom reader is on my project list and a list for the parts (diodes and resistors) is in my wallet in case i pass by a store that sells stuff like that.
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26 minutes ago, Ging3rguy said:
Will he let you look through them, odds are you will find one or two that are already chipped and you might find something interesting?
If you null all your drives that need to be locked it will not matter if you mix them up.
I think i nulled them but i lost track on the ones i yanked out and replaced them with old IDE ones and chipped the xbox.
I asked him whether i can take a look at them but since it's a game store with the employees staying in an aquarium like glass box he either didn't hear it or simply ignored it.
I'll pretty much will gut the 1.0 for its ram and try another upgrade on another box. Preferably with Xblast for a bios. not gonna be that blue-eyed about my own skills again.
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i just tried the v1.0 with an Aladdin that i held back for testing.
The board came to life but stalled after the flubber was done. Maybe due to the hard drive not being a match to the eeprom or whatever. Might have mixed hdd also as well. I hate this locking feature. that's why i'm not too fond of soft mods. Although I appreciate and admire the skills the folks had or have who made soft mods possible.
For now i'll let the v1.0 rest. I might resolder the pinheader and check with the Aladdin again at some point.
Next project will be to rebuild the LPC on a 1.6 and equip it with another X3 that should be on its way.
i got a source for cheap xboxes that ain't dry as of yet if the owner of the store didn't exaggerate when he said that he got xboxes stacked 3 feet high all along the wall.
so far i got 5 from him for $5 each all stated to be broken but they only had a totally gunged up dvd drive or loose belt
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so I got my X3 to a v1.3 motherboard with nothing attached to the chip but in all stock xbox. well not totally stock since i had to reset a soft mod to stock configuration.
I have no idea what i did wrong apart from efing up while soldering the ram to the first board (v1.1). but why the chip acted up on the 1.0 i have no clue.
finally it sits in my shelf again with faceplate display and what not attached and playing music as it used to do.
Thanks for all the suggestions and help
i hope your X3 will come to life as well. maybe try to get it to a box that doesn't have a softmod or reset it like i did
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2 hours ago, Ging3rguy said:
[...]
... just got message "unknown bios, halted"
[...]
i got that too but it was because it was write-protected.
green led = protected red led = write enabled
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4 hours ago, Ging3rguy said:
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You are sure the X3 bios you have on the chip is a V1.0-1.4?
yes, absolutely. flashed it back when it got released and never touched the bank ever after.
I got me a 1.2/3 and a 1.6 and two 1.0 today. Got them all working and will try the X3 on the 1.2 and 1.6 later on.
there is one thing that i recall now: before i switched the bios to the Xblast I checked the X Live Config. Although it booted to it there was a permanent flickering in the top right corner of the screen, switching between 'Softselect Bank' and 'Dip Select Bank' (or something similiar) radpidly. That got me the idea to maybe resolder the dip switch connector on the chip or at least check it for proper continuity.
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1 hour ago, KaosEngineer said:
Do you know that it has the X3 BIOS flashed to the banks on the chip 1-4 or 5-8?
You do not have to use the X3 BIOS with this chip. You can't use all the features the chip provides without using it though. The X3 modchip can have any mix of 256KB, 512KB or 1MB BIOS's that fit on evenly divisible bank boundaries:
1MB BIOS's only work when flashed to a group of 4-256KB banks: 1-4 or 5-8
512KB BIOS's only work in 2-256KB banks: 1-2, 3-4, 5-6 or 7-8
256KB BIOS's work in any single 256KB bank: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 or 8.
You cannot overlap 2 different sized BIOS's that would occupy another BIOSes bank(s).
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Aladdin modchip: You installed one onto the pin header where the X3CE fragged and it to fragged. Double check the pin header soldering for good connections. The X3CE uses all 16 pins and the Aladdin only needs the first 12. Pin 1 is the square pad and the numbering alternates right to left for the odd and even pin numbers.
16 15
14 13
12 11
10 09
08 07
06 05
04 03
02 01<--Square padLPC Debug Port pinout: http://xboxdevwiki.net/LPC_Debug_Port
I appreciate your thoughts and information though the X3 was running since ~2004 with the same bios setting. i never dabbled with multiple bios and even while moving across the atlantic the setting didn't get messed up.
so yes, i'm sure the X3 bios is in banks 1-4 and that's what X3 Live Config confirmed after I pulled the chip from the board i failed on upgrading it to 128mb.
X3 Live also confirmed the Xblast bios in bank 7(-8) on that occassion.
the trouble really started when I switched banks to boot with Xblast and it fragged.
Forget the upgraded and failed ram. i can live with the loss of the board and the chips.
the main problem is that the X3 was running once my xbox came to live as it always did. but since i wasn't all done with the 128mb upgrade i switched banks to Xblast. and from that moment on i get nothing but FRAG.
i got me 4 xboxes now that I'll check for function and get the X3 on to test it once it's confirmed that the stock boxes will work work.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
Any Tips for Rebuild the Lpc?
in Hardware Mods
Posted
wait, when the rebuild pcb is too small then why mount/solder the chip directly to the mobo ?
even with a rebuild done using wires you can fit a pinheader. makes it easier to remove the chip for whatever purpose (hotswap-reflash and the like)