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ChriZz

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Posts posted by ChriZz

  1. 1 hour ago, Raidernick said:

    On the original "real" aladdin chip yes, but none of the clones, lite versions, xblasts, jafars or anything else made these days is that true. In fact, on any "modern" aladdin, including the newer variants you are seeing now on aliexpress with the transistor on them actually have the D0 and L1 traces connected together coming right out of the CPLD. This was not the case on the original versions. So with any of these newer chips you can simply use the D0 pad(some only have this pad available now anyway and did away with all the extra pads).

     

    EDIT: It's actually really hard to get a hold of the original "clone" aladdin's these days as websites like ebay/amazon/aliexpress all show pictures of the original ones with the original cloned CPLD code on them, but then when you buy them you end up with that new version with the transistor that you can't reprogram the CPLD of. I believe there are actually posts about that on this forum.

    For the OP the best bet would just be to buy one of the jafars from ebay/gameroomcustoms or modzvilleusa genie. These have a much higher standard of production and assembly and aren't finicky like all the clone aladdins are now.

    That's new to me. Thanks for the correction. I only own originals, so that's the only way I know it.

    • Like 1
  2. I haven't read everything yet. But did the Xbox even work before or is it some kind of eBay victim? I also recently had this QUESTION in connection with 3 restarts. It was due to the damaged reset line (pin4) on the lpc. The previous owner simply fried them away. But it was repairable.

  3. On 12/8/2023 at 5:01 AM, FrostyMaGee said:

    I’m working on a cap list for each revision set that people could refer to in the forum. Here’s what I have so far. Wanted your opinions. Is this needed? Should I add links to caps on mouser and digikey or just list preferred brands and let people find their own via the info provided? Any mistakes or omissions? Compiled info from a few different sources. I haven’t double checked against a 1.0 board yet so that’s always possible. Rough draft.  One thought I had was specifying Radial on the others since I specified SMD where applicable. Just so it was clear to those who might not know when looking for info. I also didn’t include the clock cap. Should I? Obviously for the 1.6/b but should I for the lower versions. Anyway, let me hear your thoughts or critiques. 
     

    V1.0-1.1

    Quantity

    Location

    Value

    Voltage

    Dimension

    7

    C5A4, C6A11, C6A12, C6A4, C6B4, C6B6, C6E2

    10uf

    16v

    3x5.4mm SMD

    1

    C7B3

    47uf

    16v

    6.3x5.4mm SMD

    1

    C5A3

    680uf

    16v

    8x15mm

    5

    C1E1, C2E1, C2E2, C2E5, C3E2  (CPU Caps)

    1500uf

    6.3v

    10x20mm

    2

    C1G1, C2F3

    3300uf

    10v

    12.5x25mm

    3

    C7G1, C8F2, C8G1

    1500uf

    16v

    12x20mm

    6

    C3B3, C3F6, C5F5, C5G1, C6G2, C6G6

    100uf

    25v

    6x11mm

    13

    C1G3, C1G5, C2G2, C3F2, C3G4, C4G3, C4G6, C5F6, C6G1, C7B7, C7C3, C7G5, C8E4

    22uf

    25v

    5x11mm

    From Nemesis 

    https://www.docdroid.net/KjoNVm8/ogxbox-replacment-capacitors-pdf

    • Thanks 1
  4. On 11/28/2023 at 11:41 AM, lopenator said:

    I have already bought the fuses it. it's the inductor I need to locate unfortunately.

    If nothing works, this is what I would do: get enameled copper wire and rewind it. It should be clear that the diameter and the turns must be identical.

    • Like 1
  5. 5 hours ago, dirtykash said:

    Is this repairable, looking to rebuild LPC and install an Aladdin on this 1.6 with a beaten up LPC looks like a mod has been removed previously IMG_5916.thumb.jpeg.518606b10919c8403676e06085f6d0eb.jpeg

    Everything is repairable. It just depends on your soldering skills. At this point a cheap mod with cables would be advantageous.

  6. On 11/19/2023 at 6:31 PM, cdman said:

    Hi , files seem to copy over without problem, and play media fine, its just when i boot a game and play it a bit that it freezes until rebooted, i hope to find a solution for our issue so that i can get it fixed but really struggling to find a solution, not sure if a reflow of the gpu chip or something would fix it but dont what to do that if its not the problem as that could do further damage thats not reversible.

    Now I have to ask again. Did you have a sata to ide adapter? And question number 2, do you have that “infamous” yellow, 80-pin IDE cable. There were also many complaints that it led to errors. PS if you do a reflow like that without knowing what it is, well, it usually backfires. Greetings

  7. Since you've already changed everything, things are starting to get difficult. I hope you don't have the same problem as I did when the heat sinks were removed. Because my console showed exactly the same error. See the picture in the attachment (3 torn pads under the CPU). The 5 capacitors on the CPU are also soldered properly, yes?

    _20231116_163005.thumb.JPG.08ab505f1e8749cd86f2229b2e161f62.JPG

  8. 10 minutes ago, cdman said:

    I didnt think it could be that with replacing the thermal paste etc, but i will have a look at the temps soon when i get back and post them m8 thanks

     

    Edit, image of temps immediately after crash and turned console back on

    20231115_153950.jpg

    Temperatures are perfect. Hmm, you've already changed the HDD, right? But what about the IDE cable?

  9. 2 hours ago, lopenator said:

    I thoroughly examined the board under a scope and it looks fine. I couldn't find a burnt trace anywhere. maybe a chip is fried

    She tries to stop, as you can see in your video, but can't stop. To me it looks like there's something shorted on the circuit board and that's why it's going out. I would roughly check the CPU and GPU for short circuits (multimeter). The power supply works in another console, have you tested that?

  10. On 2/12/2023 at 3:49 AM, Stef said:

    Will do that with a AVR/8051 or a with CH341 (need it for programming 8051s anyway) - or, if this can be done with some sort of "security" in mind, with ConfigMagic....just for interest - if the HDD is unlocked, does the HDD key stored in EEPROM not play any rule anymore - or does the key need to be zeroed out anyway in the EEPROM?

    But one of the steps i need to do at least for ConfigMagic is to rewire the Controllers, since they have no cables anymore (some idiot cut and take them away). Maybe i throw out the original Connectors, use USB Type A Plugs and Connectors and 3D-print the necessary holders. 

    What´s the deal with CSYNC on the Controller connector? Is it for shutter glasses?

    @KaosEngineer at the following message (cannot reply anymore today) - thanks for the Explanation. I suppose NTSC YPbPr outputs also Composite and that my old Monitor nevertheless supports 60Hz unexpecetly. Idk why the picture was distorted on my first try (looked quite out of Sync).

    Well, if my TV also supports 60 HZ (guess so), i will be happy.

     

     

     

     

     

     

    The topic is a bit older, but the sync connection is intended for the light gun.

  11. 15 minutes ago, sweetdarkdestiny said:

    Try to solder the 40 legs of the 1mb TSOP to the 32 pads on the later revisions. 

    About the MCPX you should maybe ask Kaos. I would guess, that you could change the MCPX 1.1 -with a 1.4 and vice versa and the info about TSOP size etc. is just in the eeprom. That being said, I would think that you could maybe get a 256kb TSOP to work in a 1.0/1.1 but thats also just a guess. For the other way arround we wait till you managed to solder the 40 legs to the 32 pads. ;)

     

     

    Side cutter regulates🙈🤣

    • Haha 1
  12. 4 hours ago, NeMesiS said:

     

     

    Yes, it would be an interesting test to perform.
    Some blue smoke would go well with a crystal console ;)

     

     

     

     

    This document was forwarded to me, I was told they found it on a Facebook group for console repairs.
    I can't even remember who gave this to me and that's about all I know. File attached...
    But it does have alotta handy information, the "SMC Fan Control" title stood out to me.

     

    ADCreHdtlzRGPOfOeOvNZewwQLPc0LwKABRNMM-t

     

     

    Advanced_Repair_-_Xbox_PCBA_Repair_Technical_Training.pdf 958.62 kB · 3 downloads

    Thank you very much

    • Like 1
  13. 11 hours ago, Vanheden84 said:

    I tried starting up from the other bank as well, but none of them provide a TV-signal. I don't have any other xbox to try with. So I will assume that the only thing I can do is replace the chip or buy a cheap xbox v1-1.4 and tsop flash it. The cheap xbox will probably require new capacitors etc so it will also take some work.

    I looked up the aladdin chip from aliexpress more closely after your warning and they seem to have some annoying problems which I probably don't have the equipment to get around. The preinstalled bios don't work i presume since most buyers want to install their own bios which seems problematic. This was basically the only chip I could find so now I am lost. I did find some chip that required a lot of wiring in your xbox and it was also pretty expensive (like $50-60) considering I wont use my xbox that much in the end and I have no income at the moment.

    Perhaps I should read more in forum or post a new thread in the right forum section, but my main requirement is to regain the function of reading burned dvds. I also liked that I could boot the original bios and software by starting the xbox with the open/eject button but that is not critical. Being able to swap the HDD to a larger one would be nice too, but not necessary. Ideally I wouldn't want to spend more than like $20-30 since that is what I probably would have to pay for a used xbox 1-1.4 + some new capactitors if I go for tsop flash mod instead. Anyone have any suggestions?

    Unfortunately you can't do a tsop because you have a 1.6. You can do a softmod first. Because the xbox runs without a chip, was that right? Rocky5 his is good. This way you can continue to use the Xbox normally and don't have to rush into buying any chip. You also have to keep in mind that there could be a defect in the LPC somewhere and a new chip wouldn't help you unless it's repaired.

  14. 15 hours ago, NeMesiS said:

    SMC Fan Control

    Came across some OGXbox documentation and there seems to be a PWM pin (13) on the SMC.
    From what I can tell, PWM is converted to DC for the case fan.

    I hear that Cerbois supports AUTO fan control, it would be interested to see if we
    could control PWM fans in this way...

     

    ADCreHdw0IhG7Bik7pdPCrZRJ0Ld-WZte1ERqByb

     

    Hey nemesis, where did that picture come from? Looks like a pdf and seems very interesting. Maybe you could share this or send it to me. Greetings

  15. 54 minutes ago, Vanheden84 said:

    Yes, this is what I read too, and one settings is for v1-1.4 and the other for 1.6 versions of the motherboard. I have been toggeling it a bit and tried to clean around it with iso. But am I supposed to spray some contact cleaner down by the switch to get it in there? I don't know if I have any suitable products for that. I have some electronics cleaner spray, iso-propanol and some battery contact cleaner for like car batteries. I lifted the chip and took a look at the connectors, but they look like they are brand new (no visible oxidation or anything like that). I did have some goo on the chip that I cleaned off before the photo so maybe something is physically busted on the chip?

    I did just find some Aladdin chip on aliexpress pretty cheap, so maybe that is what I should try if I can't clean the old one back to life? Like you said, it can't find the bios, so then a faulty flash chip seems plausible or should I give resoldering a chance too before I give up on this chip?

    The grease you mention could be coming from the DVD drive. Isopropanol is fine for this. Try starting from one bank and then the other. If both don't work, that's obviously bad. Don't you happen to have another Xbox to test? If the duox2 were dead, you would get a question....That's not what they say.ps Ali's chips are shit. Better ask here in the forum.

  16. 12 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said:

    It should either work, or not work. if the mod is disabled with a switch, it should load the TSOP. I don't know how cleaning the switch would help. The bios either loads fully from the LPC, or it does not. I suspect the flash chip is dying and can only be partially read, making it, essentially, a coma console. That's why I'm recommending he change the chip out and try to boot with a different flash through the LPC.

    No. The switch on the chip is to switch between the 2 BIOS banks.

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