big F
-
Posts
413 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
14
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Store
Posts posted by big F
-
-
Theres so much going on in this tread, it truly is the renaissance of the OG.
Top work everyone.
-
3
-
-
6 hours ago, trencherfield said:
I’ve bought a couple of 850mhz 100fsb coppers dirt cheap to fling on as tests to see what they will go up to overclocked. Just for a laugh... if it will work.
If its anything like the Celleron processors then there are a few that will really overclock. I have some of the 500mhz Cellerons that will happily go to just under a gig. I do recall getting a couple of PIII that were on a forum that stated they were also silly clockable. Would just need to go through my stash of processors.
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, NeMesiS said:
've been thinking of an alternative install method for something like this.
Perhaps mounting the CPU to the interposer board using "lead-free" solder balls (higher temp)
Then mounting the interposer board to the motherboard using "leaded" solder balls (lower temp)
The idea being that when heating up the lower temp solder the higher temp solder will be unaffected.
Used the same a few years back for different reasons seemed to work
The trick was finding the right solder most of the ones I had melted too close to each other. Solder paste worked but had its own issues.
-
1
-
-
When trying to read old IDE drives nothing beats an old pentium 3 era board. So cheap to buy and just chuck in a small hard drive and stripped out Windows XP and you are good to go.
-
When I last did this I had similar. I use a reader to pull the bin file directly from the rom.
I bought it back n the day on eVil Bay
I ended up just pushing the modded bios to all the boxes I had at the time and then setting the HD key to match.
-
6 hours ago, Megoosa said:
The traces of the power/eject button are already repaired/bypassed on this one. Also, the PSU should give 3,3v if the button traces on the mainboard are broken.
But I have read some thread on this forum saying a pico PSU actually doesn't have enough power on the 5v and on some Xbox boards capacitors are removed to make it boot? Also, without additional hardware the pico PSU is set to always-on so the Xbox board also get power when it's off. That doesn't hurt the board at the long time?
There are several different types now and also a few with higher outputs although the price goes up. I did look a while ago at using a 360 supply and having a micro ATX for only the PON and 3.3v, having it shunt relays to bring the 360 supply online and deliver the 12 and 5v.
-
On 7/20/2023 at 12:31 PM, big F said:
You can hook up a pico it’s psi, then run the power to it via a bullet connector and external psu That’s how we do it on the slimmed OGXboxes.
Seeing as I cannot edit this post for some reason after my phones spell checking AI crap edited the whole thing into nonsense. Tuis is what I was trying to say :-
You can hook up a pico ATX PSU then run the power to it via a bullet connector and external mains to 12v psu That’s how we do it on the slimmed OGXboxes
-
On 7/21/2023 at 10:29 PM, Bowlsnapper said:
The other cause is rotted front panel traces
.. BIG cause...
Yes this is a big cause and easy to fix.
-
On 6/24/2023 at 4:03 PM, MadMartigan said:
I see some debate in the enhanced fan cooling thread. Was there ever any definitive conclusion on if it’s worth the effort or not?
I think the conclusion is that the biggest benefit is fitting a modern silent fan that also happens to have a better air flow than the original one that was a compromise of size and cost.
I will go for near silence and reliability over the factory fitted ones any day. -
Looks similar to the schematic interface of EasyEDA, which I use.
-
Chalk it up to a learning lesson.
All good and you still have an OG that works minus the. DVD. Hold onto it till you come across one with a failed main board and make a good one outta the two.
Failing that make a slim out of it.
-
You can hook up a pico it’s psi, then run the power to it via a bullet connector and external psu That’s how we do it on the slimmed OGXboxes.
-
As I stated on the other thread. It was always going to be a thing. Capacitors b surface mount and electrolytic will leak or dry out. Changing them before they damage the board will be then new thing in a year or so.
To be fair the factory ones are less than great quality wise, so replacing them with better ones will be easy.
-
1
-
-
Usually the transistors go or the control chip. Either way it’s dead Jim.
You can fix em but it will often fail again. As the caps take a hit from the bad voltages when things break.
-
4 hours ago, ChriZz said:
Der Kondensator hatte keine beule. Man sah nur etwas Feuchtigkeit.. Genau wie bei den Kondensatoren der Version 1.0-1.4 und wie gasagt, das ist nicht der erste bei der Version 1.6 der so aussieht.
Ich denke mal die kommen jetzt alle so langsam.
Hab es jetzt so gemacht wie ss_dave vorschlägt. Funktioniert tadellos.
PS ich lese hier schon eine Weile mit und dieses geballte Insiderwissen ist einfach unglaublich und hat mir sehr geholfen meine Sammlung auf vordermann zu bringen. Dieses forum ist spitze!
Beste Grüße aus Deutschland
I agree this is going to become the norm, as I expected.
-
Ouch
-
Looking slick
-
2
-
-
17 hours ago, trencherfield said:
Guess the Pi series aren't a 100% solution then if that's the case in a digital domain and probably why the Xbox HDMI went with a hardware 7511 chip to negate this then. Makes sense if the signal is waiting on another OS and processor compared to a hardware video processor chip.
I notice lip-sync on films in ms which drives me up the wall so couldn't tolerate lag if it came about.I think it can be done, certainly it would be easier to transcode a signal that is already digital and understood to another fully understood format. Although I used to work in the video broadcasting industry I was a put it together guy so didn’t get involved with programming. My experience in programming the Pi is not that level due to being able to just use others work on my Pi’s so never needed to learn. I’m sure someone could work it out. Maybe making it a standalone device so you can just jack it into whichever Xbox you want to use at the time.
-
1
-
-
10 hours ago, trencherfield said:
Shouldn't really be any lag, the Xbox output is digital. Not analogue like the Amiga etc.
The solution on the Amiga takes the direct digital feed at source prior to it being processed by the Denise chip. Theres minor lag due to the conversion time. Some say they notice the lag but, in reality its barely a tenth second. I have not really noticed it on any of mine, and it make no difference over clocking the Pi or rigging it to use a newer one than the preferably used zero or 3 that is “standard”
Theres similar with the unrelated solution for the Nintendo Wii, and thats converting component to HDMI.
Audio DAC suffers lag but due to most only using it for sources that don't accompany video or time sensitive situations nobody notices or cares
-
1
-
-
44 minutes ago, trencherfield said:
I'm into some of the older retro stuff than even the Xbox, like Sinclair Spectrum as that was my childhood gaming era in the eighties...
I've seen a lot of other PCB's and HDMI solutions for various vintage consoles and computers back then, including the Amiga for example and they use, in my view at least, an easier approach to this HDMI issue.Mostly they use a Pi Zero, which has the HDMI already and of course the license to use it. So it's interfaced on the 2x20 riser to the retro computer, usually with a buffer daughterboard for the video input. RGB on the Amiga for instance. Even the Spectrum next uses a zero as an accelerator (not video) so its a cheap versatile bit of kit.
Beyond my remit to interface the digital xbox video into the Pi zero, but seems an easier option that was overlooked to me.
It would be possible after-all the same system has been used albeit the encoding/decoding is handled differently for the likes of the BBC B, as it obviously lacks a Denise chip as in the Amigas. IIRC there are other vintage systems using it as a basis for their HDMI conversions. The only thing is possible lag, as there is a bit on the Amiga itteration, but the screen is no where near as busy as your average OGXbox title will be.
-
Very professional looking work there.
-
Being a Commodore Amiga owner I am more than familiar with this, what started out as battery failure on the older pre surface mount boards, which eats the boards in the same way as aerogel caps do. Everyone thought the later models would be fine as they used coin cells and were surface mount. NOPE! A few years back users became aware of older machines caps simply drying out so not working or giving odd issues. Then the late model stuff with surface mount caps started to show up with cap leaks and board rot.
I see the same thing happening in car radios, the retro cool market is now full of guys who will fix your 1880’s or 90’s radio that has become useless and in some cases upgrade it with bluetooth and such while its with them.
Its rife all over the electrical industry, and seems to depend on age and what quality the caps were when installed. Ive seen boards that are 10 years old die and boards that are 30 years old that are fine. Similarly boards made in different locations can have differnet components, that age differently.
Its coming to all OG’s its just a matter of when. The 1.6 is no different and i fully expect the cap removal to be come standard in af ew years, along with the replacement of those ticking time bomb tin capacitors. Rebuilding eaten traces on an Amiga 1200 is hard enough, at times but the Xbox traces are all a lot smaller and more densely packed, so will be much more challenging.
I think its gonna be a case of swap out prior to death, on mine once i find any that are showing the tell tail signs.
-
2
-
-
Capacitor rot, the gift that keeps giving.
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, coldasijs said:
This also the reason why Dustin is very vocal that his Stellar Bios is based on reverse engineering
. It might still be a lie, but you don't want the hounds sniffing around.
100%. Reverse engineering is a-lot easier to explain away compared to straight up decompiling.
Done a bit of both in my time and it all stopped when the IP holders asked WTF we were up to. Then they made sure all our online presence went bye bye so interest in what we were doing also disappeared. A few compulsory firmware updates and the door was shut for us.
if he has any sense he’ll keep to that line of “vocality” so M$ only pay him a passing glance.
-
2
-
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
XeniumMods v3.xx SneakPeak!
in Hardware Mods
Posted · Edited by big F
Noctua have a good rep and last well.
Its always a compromise between CFU and Db. Which is mostly governed by RPM.
Theres quite a lot out there on different designs of fans, especially 3D printed ones.
People have experimented quite a lot recently.
Sunon fans also have a good rep for longevity and theres alway several flavours of each so a compromise with the CFUxDBxRPM holy trinity can be made for each set up.