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big F

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Posts posted by big F

  1. 8 hours ago, sweetdarkdestiny said:

    I dont like those super slimes to much. Look at the top of the joy ports. It would look way better to make it at least 0,5 cm higher (Same height like you have under the ports if you know what i mean). But thats just my opinion and depends on the personal taste i guess. Sad is, that this is was a nice limited edition.

    I like the slimness, but agree it looks to be a little to much as the top of the ports is slightly covered. This is a good size if you just remove the ports and fit an internal 360 controller mod. But  that looks a trans green case, I wouldn't do it to one of those. Not sure how common the6 are in the US but over in Blighty they were not sold in great numbers.

  2. Really cut down is where you cant use the standard case without serious modding where I don't just mean 10 mins with a Dremel and a marker pen. 
    with less air space the cooling requirements are pushed harder.
    To be fair the standard case is only really best for slim no CD conversions, and you can just about get away with the standard cooler, but more so if you add v1 gpu fans. That only really compensates for the rear fan removal. 

    Where it gets tricky is when  all caps get removed and replaced with low profile ones or mounted side on. Where the highest thing on the board is the cpu stack, thats when the factory cooler is no use.

     

  3. 15 hours ago, prtscn said:

    stock cooler are good. No need to add extra headache. Even stock fan is ok if it's not loud/worn out. GPU fan is a problem too.

    Stock is only ok if you don’t have a really cut down case and live where it’s warm and then push the box to do emulation and HD videos

  4. 2 hours ago, ShinGoutetsu said:

    CPU and GPU bracket for a star tech 1U socket 7 cooler and after market GPU heatsink and fan, hopefully it'll work out ok once I 3d print it

    FB_IMG_1602408276316.jpg

    I was just looking at my printer busy churning out another thing i “need”, and saw the post notification pop up and thought, at some point i need to design a cooler mount for some aftermarket coolers.

  5. 14 hours ago, voradori said:

    Hi everyone.

    I own a ogx360 device, and I have an issue with a broken off USB port on the first Arduino module.


    Replacing the Arduino pro micro USB port is too tricky by itself, I have no enough skills to do that by myself.
    And I can't find any local service that can help me - they all refuse at the moment they hear it's not a phone :/

    So may be you can recommend any workaround that can be done by myself - maybe I can just swap Arduino modules?

    I wouldnt bother trying to solder on a new connector, the Arduinos can be bought on Aliexpress for sub $2 each. Just a matter of flashing the source file to it which can be done in Windows etc.

    • Thanks 1
  6. 16 hours ago, KaosEngineer said:

    Found another novel way to read the Xbox's EEPROM on a computer running Linux with a VGA port posted by Jesenko Mehmedbasic. (Note: DVI and HDMI ports have the I2C interface too)

    Yes, through the VGA connector!  It has an I2C interface to read the Extended Display Identification Data (EDID) stored on a serial eeprom in the monitor.

    spacer.png

    Image Source: https://mehmedbasic.dk/media/xbox-pinout.jpg

    For details, see: https://mehmedbasic.dk/post/xbox-eeprom/

    and for the eeprog software, they used: http://www.codesink.org/eeprog.html

     Nice find, even a dumpster find pc or laptop from 15 years ago is up to this task, linux is free so great.

    • Like 1
  7. I have one that does the same, oddly if i leave it unplugged over night it's normally ok. Im going to mod chip it at some point, as its still using a soft mod installed by The previous owner. Its a 1.6 so no TSOP for this one. 

  8. 6 hours ago, Guilleack said:

    Thanks, i had this wrong idea that i needed to do some kind of firmware modification to make the console boot without the cap. (Something related to a bootloop maybe? )

    No not at all. I fact I did this some time back to a 100%. (Except for that) Xbox. That I have kept that way just because...

     

  9. On 2/4/2020 at 2:51 AM, DFire2 said:

    Are those LEDs blue or purple?

    I would say blue, they do have slight purple hue though, some brands of  LEDs are more obvious than others in that department

  10. 34 minutes ago, Guilleack said:

    So i should just desolder it? Or i need to do something else beforehand.

    Yes simple as that. You can just pull it off and it’s legs will separate then just cut them off with side cutters and clean the area with iso and cotton buds.

  11. Yes the corrode the board and have no actual function other than keeping the time when the power is disconnected. Since we cant use XboxLive, and most everyone has a modded dash, you can set the time on boot from the network or Internet.

     

    If you really must have time then swapping the cap for a CR2032 coincell and holder tied to a diode will do the same and last many months. Back in the day I did a test on  Xbox Scene doing this with the cheapest of cheap CR2032 battery and it lasted nearly 6 months. There is a similar hack I do on Amiga computers that have the same problem.

  12. Im going to pull a few scrap laptops outta my collection and see what might be possible.

    My thoughts are could still use a standard fan but at a lower hight etc.

    laptop fans are noisy so a nice pc low noise fan would be better imo. 

     

  13. So I was looking back at some of my modding info I have saved from the net over the years.

    With regards of cpu and gpu coolers, we have all put larger fans on the stock coolers and 80mm fan mods.

    when dealing with a slim mod the way to go used to be one of the slim cpu coolers and fans that were touted around for pentium 3 cpus. These are getting scarce and when you do see one they seem to be a pricey for my linking.

    Anyone have any combos from more modern stuff that works in a similar way.

    P4 reference fans look the right size but obviously the clamp situation would need to be looked at.

  14. The quality of JLPCB work is great quick turn round too, they are also connected to another company where you can order the components as well.

    Ive ordered from them several times, and like PCBway they do have offers but usually only for first time orders, and you have to put the offer code in at the check out to get the discount.

    I’ve ordered from both without issues and will continue to do so. Ive binned all my home PCB making stuff now, its so easy to do just create the Gerber and up load, wait for a week or so and done, no nasty chemicals, messing with drills and saws, just straight up solder on and use.

     

  15. I have several V1.0’s they work well and as stated above have the added gpu fan which can only help with emulators like Coin Ops demands. 

    If the HD is making those kinda noises then its gonna buy the farm soon, so move that data while you can.

    You can mod both fans and the 80mm conversion is no more difficult on the V1.0  as any of the versions, and does make a difference provided you do your home work on which fan to buy, they are not all equal by a long way.  Its all about CFU and Db. 

    70mm is not worth it unless its a “Rare” case where modding it would be similar to boil washing the Shroud of Turin. 

    You can also add the extra ram nicely on the  V1.0 to give it the extra poke that emulation really wants. 

     

    FileZilla or FlashXp for the win, they are the only ones worth using.

    Also no need for a mod chip, so if ones fitted just TSOP it with the same bios and save the mod Chip for a 1.6 board where you have no choice.

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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