OGXbox Admin
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Posts posted by OGXbox Admin
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13 hours ago, QuazyPat said:
Hey all!
I purchased an OG Xbox ~8 years ago from a PlayNTrade before all of them in my area closed down. I used it a bit at first and built up a small library of games, but then life happened so it sat in boxes with some of my older consoles for a while. I've been getting back into older games/collecting recently so I figured I should set it up and finally mod it.
I just completed a softmod using the Rocky5 tool (via Splinter Cell) which was a breeze. The only hold up was that I had to test several old flash drives before I found one that worked. Of course, it was the last one I tried.
My main purpose for modding is to create backups of my games for when the disk drive eventually dies, and so that I can play them off the HDD directly. I'm looking to download DVD2Xbox, but I see a message saying I don't have permission to download it. Is there something particular I have to do? Are the files hosted on another site?
Thanks,
Patrick
We don't allow people to just start downloading after they join. You have to be an active member of the community to do that.
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3 minutes ago, hapyman said:
Hi Admin,
Thank you for your reply. The DVD drive reads my retail XBOX games and audio CDs perfectly. So I don't think the DVD drive is failing.
It only has trouble reading the Hexen dvd. I was able to load the Hexen DVD during the initial TSOP stage. After TSOP, the Hexen is no longer loading.
I prefer to use the DVD to repair or fix any issues in the future if my HD fails. Any ideas?
Your logic is pretty flawed.
You think your drive is good because it reads pressed games and pressed audio cds perfectly, yet won't read your burned dvd.
You're describing a failing dvd drive to the letter. If you'd prefer to use the dvd drive, you may have to purchase another or you can try the pot tweak for your drive. -
It has nothing to do with that as literally everyone else who tsop flashes and runs Unleash X can read anything if their dvd drive works. Your dvd drive is nearing 20 years old. It's most likely on its way out as everyone else's is. You will be better served by FTP'ing anyways.
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40 minutes ago, GamerOne said:
Hi, just wondering if anyone can help me regarding connecting my Xbox one to my internet via a wired connection ( Ethernet cable ) we have recently just moved to new house and since then I’m able to use a wired connection wireless is NOT fine, there is nothing wrong with the Ethernet cable as it allows me to use it on internet. I have spoken to the house’s landlord it is service provider Bell (I am in CA) and they told me there was a few steps I could follow online and make my own server designated to my Xbox one, however they want me to purchase their router from them with password? I want to use my own router (as I have one Netgear) & settings that make my own server and at the end however it kept saying unable to connect due to no valid IP address, before I went into my router settings the Ethernet on its own works for xbox but not for my Playstation 3 with the same error msg no valid ip address found(when connected ethernet cable to PS3) ? Any help towards this would be appreciated cheers.
Set your router's wan to DHCP. Then plug the wan port into the ISP's ethernet cable. Plug all of your devices into the lan ports on the router.
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3 hours ago, shaokhann said:raduci in Inglese
Morning, boys. A friend flashed Atr the bios at an xbox 1.6 with aladdin xt and hdd 160 gb. He put a bios for 1.0-1.5 instead of a bios for xbox 1.6. Now the xbox gives error 5 always. Can I fix it?
You'll need to replace the sst 49lf020 with one that has a good bios for a 1.6. Once it boots and you go into evox or your flashing program of choice... you can swap the chips BEING VERY CAREFUL while doing so as the console is on. Then once the one with the bad flash is in, you can flash it with a good bios. This is called the hotswap method and can be risky if you're not careful.
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This is not a Xbox 360 group.
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57 minutes ago, MightyDawg said:
So say I'm building an XBOX annnnnnd I've got some XBOX360 consoles laying around, I'm wondering if the DVD drive will work? Technically the consensus has been ANY XBOX DVD drive is compatible with ANY XBOX
lol no. Xbox means Xbox... not Xbox 360 or Xbox One.
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1 hour ago, DobaMuffin said:
Hello everybody.
I recently got to thinking about the data retention of the flash memory used in the original xbox. I purchased an original xbox not to long ago that was basically a coma console in that it would have a green light, but no audio or video. Turns out the bios was corrupted or something similar and that it would boot with extreme difficulties after pressing the eject button a bunch of times until the drive ejected. Basically these symptoms.
I did manage to flash a custom bios onto the system and that solved the booting issues it was having, but that then leads me to what I have as a discussion today. Looking at the datasheet for the Winbond W49F020 series of flash memory used in my console, I notice that it has a data retention of 20 years. This means that it should hold the data for about 20 years no problem, but it seems like mine started having issues early. By what I can tell, to refresh this data and basically restart the countdown, I need to reflash the bios to the chip rewriting the data. This brings it back to a state where the data is properly stored and is ready to last another 15-20 years. My only concern about the whole thing is that flashing a new bios can go wrong and cause the console not to boot without a mod chip.
My question to someone more knowledgeable than me in this topic is, are we going to see more and more stock consoles fail to boot due to corrupt bioses in the up and coming years? I know that 1.0 and 1.1 consoles already have some issues with their 1mb flash chips, but will all sorts of version have issues? ie, 1.0 - 1.6? Is this just a limitation of anything using flash memory in a component used to boot up? I know nothing lasts forever, but I do try to make it last as long as I can.
Thanks for taking the time to read through this and I hope it can spark some good discussion on the topic. Also if anything I have here is incorrect, please let me know as I am still learning about hardware in general, and I try my best to be accurate in my information.
DobaMuffin
Yes they will fail... and reflashing won't give it another 15-20 years. The chips degrade over time. Modchips are the best solution going forward for the ones that fail.
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It doesn't matter how good your soldering skills are. Nobody can do it by hand. The pinout is not the same so it requires an adapter sandwiched between the motherboard and tualatin. N64 Freak redesigned his and it is superior. He uses a smd rework station. He's in Germany and visits this site frequently but not every day. He will reply soon.
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8 hours ago, Volcanic163 said:
Intel HD Graphics 3000 is the device name.
That could be part of your problem. Try an actual gpu and see what happens.
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On 11/13/2019 at 6:24 PM, Volcanic163 said:
I was using CXBX-Reloaded, and I tried to run a Brute Force XBE. I fixed the first issue, but what about IDirect3D?
What GPU are you running?
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You'll need to write a USB Xbox driver for the wireless chipset.
USB keyboards work but I don't think mice do. The reason is there is a generic and common driver for those and it's already included with the xbox.
USB is not analog. It's digital. As such, a driver needs to exist for the pc or xbox to know how to use the hardware device attached via USB. -
It just switches between the two drives. The bioses out there do not support more than one hdd at a time.
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19 hours ago, pmp174 said:
I'd like to add one to bring cool air in and one to pull hot air out. I just want to know if a second fan is necessary for a slim mod, and if it is, what my options are.
I already explained this in my post above. Let's try it a different way.
If you don't have a fan blowing cool air in, what do you think happens? Do you think the exhaust fan blows all the air out of the inside of the case and then there just isn't any anymore? -
19 hours ago, pmp174 said:
So... Should I add a second fan or just leave the system as is when I do the slim mod? has anyone had there system overheat/get damaged?
Let's try this.
Why are you thinking of adding the second fan? -
With all that said, the second fan won't do much. You aren't doing your system favors if you blow air in harder than you pull air out. So you could only hope to push air in at the same speed as the exhaust is blowing out.... the problem with that is you're doing nothing. To blow air out, the exhaust fan creates negative pressure in the case which draws air in on its own.
The only real reason for fan intakes is to make sure most of the air drawn in is from this particular point and thus the airflow must be directed across certain components in the case.
The Xbox's design was actually very good for this and an intake is just not necessary.-
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You can have it turn on with power. The problem is when you turn it off. The xbox tries to go to standby mode. This means it will write any pending writes to the hdd to prevent corruption and turn itself off. If you just cut the power, you will eventually experience hdd corruption.
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It has been deleted because it keeps getting reported. You sound like Billy Mays trying to sell some garbage on an infomercial. Everyone knows that they don't need to "upgrade" their power supply unless they are adding a ton of lighting or some such thing. Give it a rest or buy a vendor slot.
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They were only used in 1.0. So if you're asking if they can be swapped between other 1.0's the answer is yes.
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36 minutes ago, US-Solidsnake8997 said:
Would any you know if it would be possible to run a amd athlon thunderbird 1.4ghz inside the xbox? Its the rival to the pentium III with a socket A 462 could it be done. Could the cpu socket be modified to run this cpu? Any relevant information and ideas and thoughs would be welcome. No negative nancies , Keep those to yourself.
You'd need to figure out how to make an adapter for the pins and make sure the voltages and signals match.
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One of the biggest benefits is copying the discs you legally own to your hard drive for faster loading times and no disc swapping. Since the disc drives fail over time, it's great to be able to run the games you own from the hard drive.
Next, there are media playing capabilities and emulation you can look into. -
6 hours ago, rmila751 said:
Can you direct me to a part number for the laser lens assembly so I can get started on planning to repair the drive?
We have been advised by someone that works at a factory that manufactures disc drives, that the replacement lenses are NOT new and that they do not make extra lasers for repair so there is no (new old stock) and there are no third parties that make them. I cannot independently confirm this, but the person seemed to be reputable as there was no reason for them to not be truthful. Your best bet is to replace the drive and upgrade to a larger hard drive. Optical drives fail over time and these things are going on 20 years old. You're not going to find one that will always work. Run games from the hard drive. THIS DOES NOT MEAN TO PIRATE. Copy only your own games.... but you'll have no load times and you'll keep your dvd drive alive longer.
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3 minutes ago, rmila751 said:
Hello. I'm a new poster here. I have a 1.6 version xbox that has notoriously gone through phases where it gives the disc read error for any and every disc including audio cd. After giving up on the system for days or weeks, I can return to it and it suddenly reads all discs again. Most recently, it was not reading anything AND the sticky tray finally quit working, so I removed, cleaned, and replaced the belt. Not only did the drawer work fine, but it started reading discs again.
So now, once again, trying to play Deathrow, the drive tried and tried to load the game, green light was flashing, then the disc read error appeared. At this point, when I try any disc, I hear three quiet "click" sounds from the drive when the tray closes, and the disc error appears very quickly. It's almost like it has switched to some default mode where it just "assumes" it won't read the disc. There is very little to no drive activity first, before the error appears.
Is there some form of memory in the HDD that is forcing the error to occur without even attempting to load the disc?
Can I somehow "clear" this memory? I am skeptical that the drive has failed, since as I said, it works brilliantly for long stretches of time until it just decides not to.
Nope. There is no memory to be reset. Unplugging the power resets all memory since you won't be satisfied by that response. The truth, even though it sounds like you're not ready to accept it is... your drive is dying and almost dead. This is typical behavior for an optical drive about to go out.
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So 5933 came out BEFORE 5849.15?
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