FrostyMaGee
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Posts posted by FrostyMaGee
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2 hours ago, Mittyoz said:
Little update post. Yep that's what I went with. Was able to route that cable under the DVD caddy (used tape to make sure it didn't foul anything on the motherboard, and route up through one of the holes in the HDD caddy. At the moment my 2.5" 320gb laptop drive using the Startech Adapter is reversed to the normal drive orientation, and working fine. I might upgrade to a bigger drive later on.
Also purchased one of these from Ebay https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/335166995200?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=gMavJ63SSze&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Works great, doesn't need a separate USB Power Supply. Might not be the best but it's far better than the composite cable I was using previously!
Now I just need to get the HDD setup the correct way with dashes etc, and choose which one I want to use. I'm thinking it'll be XBMCforGamers but not 100% sold on that yet.
Cool. Glad you were able to get that cable routed that way. I wasn’t positive it would fit but glad to hear it did. Tape was a good call as well.
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I haven’t yet. I need to do it to see if that fixes the problem. As soon as I do I’ll definitely post an update.
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2 hours ago, fox said:
that's frankly a little too long
I’d agree with 3 sec max depending on the temp. TBH if you’re using a quality iron that holds it’s listed temp, use flux, and throw a little solder on the iron first it really shouldn't even take 3 secs. Especially not to solder. Desoldering i could see three seconds easy on some stuff to get going as long as you were using copious amounts of flux and a little solder to get started.
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Also, I can’t tell for sure in the pictures if it’s dust/grime or what but there looks to be some solder splash around some of those areas. Probably also be worth going over the whole thing closely to make sure everything is clean and there are no bridges.I’d hit the whole thing with a soft bristle brush and some 99% isopropyl alcohol (or 91% if you don’t have that) just for good measure.
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29 minutes ago, Marty said:
Always use flux, even with rosin-core solder.
?
Can’t agree more on the flux!
I would also be interested in what tip he was using (as you mentioned). If it was a conical tip I’d move to the small chisel at least for the lpc port.
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4 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said:
I have a resin printer and an FDM printer. I'll print it for free and only charge you shipping.
Thanks! I may take you up on that Bowl.
I do seriously need to just buy a good 3D printer though. I’ve put it off long enough. Lol. Any suggestions?
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1 hour ago, MadMartigan said:
NTSC or PAL?
He has an ntsc version.
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51 minutes ago, lopenator said:
lmao I'm so mad about that.still need a psu
I bet you are. Lol. I would be too! I think it’s crazy we can’t find that part. Hell I can’t even find that specific psu rev which is wild.
As to the case I like it a lot. I need to do this. I’ll need to get a 3D printer first. Lol
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I could still see the price occasionally if the quality was oem or better. The shipping would be the killer for me. Thats a lot plus where its shipping from it could take a month or longer to get to the US. You just can’t ever tell from that area plus the slow walking US customs randomly does with packages. I’ve had some stuff arrive in a week but have had other things take almost two months. I would hope at $30-40 it would be via dhl, et al and fast but who knows. It says airmail would be extra so i’m thinking it won’t be fast for standard shipping.
I will say this though…I do like that someone is making them and they do look very nice (really liking that smoke black one tbh lol). Hopefully they will have a lot of success. If the quality is there and they sell more maybe the price will come down or they’ll get a US distributor. Time will tell.
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Have you tried the problem games since changing out the ide? Just curious if that made any difference at all or if it still persists. I’m going to assume the latter but wanted to ask.
Edit: Nevermind. Just saw your DM. At least the system is up and running again though!
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56 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:
As long as they last and have durability, I would pay a premium for a translucent case done well... For the right console of course.
Yeah if they’re of very good quality I could see paying that occasionally when I needed something special case wise. I’d rather it be more like $100US but $130 is in the ballpark if the quality is A plus. Like @GoTeamScotch said many of the older cheaper ones were just that…cheap in most all aspects and I don’t recall them having much durability either (stress fractures, etc).
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23 minutes ago, Marbles said:
I got rid of Stubbs since it had been re-released for modern consoles, and on sale for the holidays.
I still have Seven Sorrows
Take a look! https://i.imgur.com/U5Y30yE.jpgLike all the other games, it works perfectly int he 360 with no issue.
I'm using the Xenium BIOS
https://i.imgur.com/uLpD19z.jpgSadly, I think I fucked the mod-chip when I put the system back together (All I did was hook up the ribbon and power cables to test a few things)
The Default Dashboard never worked, but now UnleashX isn't either.. both give me this error
https://i.imgur.com/xNmkmnh.jpg
When I turn the system on, or try to load a dashboard, I hear the system dvd drive eye move 4-5 times, which I don't remember hearing before.. the drive is empty.That's what i was afraid of, that it was a defective system, but such a minor defect it only affects a handful of titles.
I was trying one last test, but now nothing is working.. I think I hit the modchip.
Someone mentioned that there are games, like BloodWake, which won't play if your system time is in the 2010s and beyond.
So I was going to set the system to like 2005, and see what happens.... but now I am getting the system needs repair error.
https://i.imgur.com/xNmkmnh.jpgAre you getting the error 16 powering on via the power button or via the eject button?
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31 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:
Hate it when that happens. I think you can find the date on the Mobo, yes?
Not sure. It has a Focus video chip though so that pretty much makes it a 1.4. Technically the 1.5s were supposed to have them but since no one has ever really seen one lol I’d go with 1.4.
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Ah ok. Sorry I missed that in the original post. Hmm that is very odd. I’m fairly certain I’ve run all those off a HDD before but I’ll test it out again just to see. That’s just weird it’s only those games.
That’s good about the cache. At least it can be eliminated as a cause.
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I’ve had decent luck recapping the drives and sometimes replacing resistors. I have run in to far less truly dead lasers but they are out there. Recapping has, for the most part, kept me from having to do pot tweaks as often compared to years past.
Half of the time all they really need is a thorough cleaning and drive belt replacement tbh. Lol. I have had a few spindle motors that were actually problems though. Never had an eject motor die but have had many (on the drives that have separations for this) that needed thorough cleaning (usually with contact cleaner) before they would work properly again. That being said the motor wasn’t the issue as much as the control board for it. They’re all definitely showing their age at this point. I try to use my working drives as little as possible and usually suggest the same for any Xboxes I repair or sell. Most everyone wants to move to the hdd upgrade and play games that way so it works out. At least there’s a functioning one there when you really need it is my thought.
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Just out of curiosity have you cleared the cache on this box? Sometimes that can cause odd crashes/freezes.
It would be interesting to see if the Stubbs game crashed on your system sans the hard mod but that may be more than you want to do to it.
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1 hour ago, Bowlsnapper said:
With XBMC I have to point the dashboard to a certain root directory to enumerate executables or media files in: apps, games, music, etc. I do this by going into music, for example, and going to "add source" and pointing to the root directory that my music files are in (f:/music/) and from then on, anything I add will add itself to the list in XBMC every time I navigate to it, because every time I do, the folder gets searched for content.
Are there any dashboards that do this automatically based on directory alone? Like apps, games, etc? I think unleashx does. But on the flip side, you may not be able to add folders manually like you can in XBMC.
Also, it's a media center! So I can play some Boston while I organize my UI or putz with settings and what have you.
I usually do xbmc4gamers or just some version of unleash if I don’t need the bells and whistles (like a test box or something of that nature).
I hope you’re only listening to Boston’s first album cause that’s the only one that was great. Lol. Third Stage had Amanda but the rest of it sucked as did their second album.That’s just me though. They screwed with their sound by screwing with the lineup from the titular Boston album. Never was as good after that.
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On 12/23/2023 at 4:13 PM, Shmingers said:
Hey mate, no, I got side-tracked with other projects, but I fear it's the board. I was hoping to swap the board with another drive but I haven't encountered another one of this kind. I have a fully working Philips drive, but it has the split PCB, not the big square one.
If I figure out a solution, you will be the first one I reach out to.
Also, happy holidays my friend. Hope all's good with you!
Same to you!
I wonder if you could just swap the spindle out with another should that be the dying part? Well be sure to post as you get in to it and narrow things down with the drive. It’s always possible it is the control board though.
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5 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:
Resistor arrays? Maybe there is a slight failure with the mobo that the Phillips cannot tolerate, but other drives can. Passives are starting to reach EOL on this hardware and all sorts of untraceable problems are starting to occur. All these mobos are starting to go outta wack from degrading circuits in random locations resulting in errant voltages, amperages and frequencies. I KNOW it.
Starting to reach EOL? I’d say well past probably. Lol. Just had to dig at you for a sec Bowl.
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4 minutes ago, arfows said:
thanks. a couple of the ribbons from the llama site i could see clearly enough to verify I had the ribbons in far enough...the only one I couldn't see well enough was the one closest to the front of the drive. Still triggering the error 12 though. The solder joints look good so that doesn't appear to be the problem. Anyone else have ideas why these drives are suddenly triggering the error?
Hmm..SMDs maybe? That’s weird it just stopped working.
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20 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:
It should have XBlast and a copy of Cerbios on the main 256 bank ready with fastboot. It should only need the press of a power button... Try loading the 256 bank manually with XBlast in the very first menu. The banks are listed on the bottom when XBlast first loads. Fast boot (immediately booting a certain bank when booting with power, in this instance) should be in XBlast settings. The chips I've tested have had Cerbios in the 256... however if all you can do is boot XBLast for some reason, flash Cerbios with XBlast. Are you saying that you are trying to flash, but nothing is happening? I'm a bit unclear. You said the "tool" wouldn't let you do anything. Could you elaborate just a bit for us? I wanna make sure you get this going.
I figured you would know best since I thought it was one of yours. Hence the tag earlier.
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Did you ever have any luck with this one or determine if the whine was coming from the spindle motor or somewhere else?
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1 hour ago, prtscn said:
Good question, and you are correct, but you need to have cerbios bios flashed to your chip that supports such partitions.
XBlast is a tool for flashing bios images, but you must match bios size for your mod chip. 256kb bios to 256kb mod chip.
Cerbios tool is for costuming bios image in windows environment.
If it’s an Xblast from @Bowlsnapper it has a 256 and a 512 bank if I’m not mistaken. Correct me if I’m wrong though, Bowl.
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Unfortunately that’s the spot I was thinking might be broken. I had one similar where the previous owner tried to force it open and broke the front bezel piece and had also broken that gear loose. Actually it wasn’t the gear as much as the plastic piece it mounted to on the frame. There wasn’t any way to repair mine. I tried gluing (even with a two part epoxy) but it was such a small area and a stress point that it would never hold for long before coming loose again. I ended up swapping out the frame with a parts Samsung I had.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
The next EEPROM Reader/Writer (picoPromSD)
in Hardware Mods
Posted
It’s definitely a valuable tool to have! I’ve used mine multiple times. Worth it and very quick and easy to use.