.png.7b5607b4d83b4bbbaebe3f8317b847f5.png)
Bowlsnapper
-
Posts
4,834 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
147
Posts posted by Bowlsnapper
-
-
1 hour ago, icanswim70 said:
Like OP, I am extremely interested in finding a solution to “no more drives”. I feel like new drives can do so much more now, so making a better machine perform a simpler task must be possible somehow.
Welcome to the forum!
Yeah, the optical drive issue is an interesting one for me. I LOVE being able to just throw in a disc and rip data... preferrably at a higher speed than the stock drives cuz DAMN those things are slow. 8x is a ridiculous spec for ANY DVD-ROM drive from 2001. Also, all our drives are starting to die, so any research into coming up with a replacement solution is welcome.
-
5 hours ago, Felipe_Desenvolver said:
there is bone
Indeed. There IS bone... Giggity.
Felipe, is this to help assist in your attempt to run HL2 in 720P?
-
On 2/1/2023 at 11:47 AM, kit352 said:
So tested the system today and have had a few issues.
First is my power and eject buttons are acting up again with the chip mounted. If I pull it off they work fine. I've read that the chip alters the function of the buttons to be able to boot into xenium so this just may be a by product. Im not too concerned about this but I would like some clarification if anyone can offer some.
Second issue is that the system would shut down and flash an orange ring after about 10 minutes. Restarting the system only made the problem come back quicker than the last. Seems to be an overheating issue so I cleaned the microchip that is known to be a culprit(which looked fine) and cleaned around the clock cap area again with a toothpick. I left the system mostly apart so I could see what was going on. System powered up fine but I noticed my v1.0 main processer fan was making a racket so I flicked it and it smoothed right out. This may have been partially to blame for my overheating issue. The microchip I cleaned seemed fine but maybe not. This could have been an issue prior to me installing the chip. With my dvd drive dead I never had reason to keep the Xbox on for more than a few minutes so it never would have overheated. Anyway, I'm stress testing the system now. Been about 30 minutes and it's still humming away.
WHen I'm in the xenium dashboard the picture isn't as clean as I thought it would be. Much of the lettering, especially the xenium logo at the top, is pixilated. I am using the component hd adaptor with the stock settings set to 420, 720 and 1080. Is the xenium basically in default mode so the pic isn't great? I am running it on an older 60in led TV. Again, clarification is needed.
My xenium came preloaded with evoX so when I launch it the stock dash comes up with the evo symbol on the top. That's about as far as I have gotten. I'm really not sure what needs to be changed right now.
When I refurb consoles, I always clean the AV ports (male and female ends) with alcohol on a qtip, and then plug and unplug the connector while they're wet, then let them dry and test. See if that helps your picture.
-
Coulda sworn I saw this on Ebay, recently... Wanted to pull the trigger, but couldn't...
-
On 1/26/2023 at 11:09 AM, greatcornholio said:
i almost lost everything in a house fire the fire happened two years ago and at that time i slimmed down my xboxs and only had two of them one just a softmod the other the xecuter 3 now let me tell you these xboxs were directly under my 55in flat screen tv and the tv melted all down on the xboxs now im here to tell you that Microsoft built a tank when they built these things because softmod survived i mean the case is junk both power and eject buttons were melted together i had to break the case apart and pull the power/eject pcb board out to turn it on now i have not cleaned the mother board or anything and it functions so i have hope i have not hooked up x3 to see whats up its the holy grail instead i have it pulled apart and trying to clean the mother board and mod chip and try to get it up and going again the switches are really bad one of the switches got so hot that some of the buttons fell off one switch came apart a spring came out but the switch might still work if you act like there is a spring there it will cycle but they are all melted in some way ie the switches now about the lcd screen i have it all pulled apart i might be able to salvage it it had some sort of tint on the out side of the glass witch is easy i just have to find out about what % tint it was but on the other side of the glass screen for illumination there is a white semi transparent film for even and soft illumination and now mine is is wavy like a pice of bacon and that will effect the screens back light illumination so if i can figure out the tint % and a good replacement for the backlight diffuser i think its what it is lol and to replace these switches https://imgbox.com/g/Pl9bJWtgsZ
First of all, GREAT username.
I'm sorry to hear about your housefire. That really sucks, man. I'm glad you were at least able to salvage enough of the Box for it to work, chip and all... was the X3CP even salvageable? It looks like it's broken in half, man.
-
On 2/6/2023 at 10:19 AM, Fusilli_Jerry said:
Did you happen to be using a 9,000W soldering iron? That resistor looks like it's been effectively converted to carbon.
Also, try NOT being a smart-ass to Dave. That guy has a good reputation here for a reason. He's one of the few people here that can help you solve almost any problem with an Xbox. Being snippy isn't going to get you a solution to your problem. I'm assuming dave will probably be willing to give the time it takes to help you find a solution, but if he gives you a few pointers to help make his repair advice actually useful to you, try taking it.
Trust me: HE READ YOUR POST. If he ignored certain parts of it, it's because he decided that it wasn't worth addressing yet. You can't fix your xbox with anybody's advice here until the people giving you that advice have had a chance to assess the damage through photos and other possible diagnostic procedures. Also, it helps to make sure your soldering skills are up to par. Otherwise, what's the point? How can you apply the advice given to you if you're unable to execute the future instructions provided?
Be patient and let people here guide you through the steps to diagnose this issue.
-
2
-
-
18 hours ago, CrossfireCam said:
Xbox #1 is a v1.6b (Hynix RAM, Xclaibur CPU), while Xbox #2 is a v1.4 or v1.5. I checked here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vxs2o3u22K4
Xbox #1 is likely a lost cause. I've got a pic of the corrosion here: https://imgur.com/F8bUVkK. It looks like a corroded clock capacitor as warned about in this vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uy-btflp0-U. If only my mate had seen it sooner. Maybe the fix is easier than I expect? I'd like input on how bad the corrosion looks. I only have a standard soldering iron.
Xbox #2 I already tried replacing the 5 CPU capacitors but as previously stated that didn't work. Are there any suggestions for what to try next for Xbox #2?
If either Xbox doesn't appear salvageable, my mate is considering getting a 360 to replace it.
Holy crap. Looks like you may have discovered some new form of fungus that feeds on PCBs.
-
2
-
-
On 1/7/2023 at 2:53 PM, MadMartigan said:
With Stellar’s upgraded RAM, this may be something to look into now. Possibly supports higher bit rates?
Will the CPU bottleneck?
On 1/7/2023 at 1:30 PM, Jay Yardley said:This is a bit late but here's some testing I did a while back on a stock 64MB Xbox in regards to video encoding and what the og can handle. The link below goes to my Google drive spreadsheet which you can use to see the methods I went through. There was a lot more to it than what you see
TL;DR
720x480 MPEG-4 2Mbps 60fps runs well (basically DVD quality)
1280x720 XMV 8Mbps 30fps is the highest resolution the Xbox can reasonably handle without running like poopoo
You got 720p to run at a consistent 30fps?
-
On 1/6/2023 at 12:58 PM, TeleTubby666 said:
Can you try with 2.20 Beta as well? Does not work for me any more…Overclocking doesn't work?
-
On 1/18/2023 at 10:53 AM, Serafino97 said:
Howdy folks! I got a og Xbox for sale with a xecuter 3+ faceplate+ LCD, it comes with a duke controller, a original box for the console and a 2tb hdd with a complete NTSC library and a HD AV pack. Looking for 850 USD + shipping.
I have the same CRT.
-
Help me understand: how is it fried? It works and boots? What is not functioning properly?
-
5 hours ago, KaosEngineer said:
The signal on pin #5 of the LPC Debug port is LRESET# (aka MCPX's PCIRST# output). This signal connects to several other peripheral chips to initialize them during startup. For the RAM, the signal goes from the LPC Debug Port's pin #5 to several line drivers/level shifters whose output then connects to all of the RAM chip's CKE (clock enable) inputs on pin #53 to properly initialize them during system reset/startup. As I understand it if this active-high CKE pin is not pulled low then high at power-on, the RAM chips don't get initialized to function properly. Therefore, when the RAM is tested during system initialization, a data error is detected. The CPU tells the System Management Controller (SMC) that a RAM error has occurred which then indicates detection of this RAM error by flashing the Eject ring RED and ORANGE and halts the remainder of boot process.
The RAM chips may be good but without the proper startup sequence, no go.
Holy SHIT, Kaos. That was like watching a Nova documentary... Badass.
-
1
-
-
13 hours ago, prtscn said:
Removing DVD drive is kinda useless, HDD space is cheap nowadays.
Butchering perfectly fine case to slim it down is herecy, unless you make a custom case from scratch. Butchered cases looks not proportional, misses key aspects of original design.
SSD is useless cost wise, unless you want a super silent console.
Now for a good upgrades.
MakeMHZ, pricey, hard to install, it has over-brightness issue, may crush some bright detail and there is no proof for complying with color standards.
Alternative would be component to HDMI transcoder. Or simply using component cable with component input compatible TV. You can DIY component cable from xbox 360 cable. There are standalone xbox to HDMI cables, but they are hit or miss, proper trascoder would be a more reliable option.
Modchip, you can TSOP if compatible motherboard. Modchip price ranges from cheap to expensive. But softmod is also a good option, if you don't use super big drives, ram upgrades, probably you could start with softmod and then buy modchip if you decide you want more from your xbox.
RAM upgrades, not huge benfit TBH, unless for few chihiro games and for 128MB homebrew. Not worth in IMO if you not gonna use any of mentioned.
HDD upgrade is a must, i think 2TB is max for softomd, but i see people using 3TB not sure if softmod, with modchip you can use way bigger drives. You can use cheap ide adapter for 8 bucks or less, works as good as brand one.
I discourage replacing thermal paste from GPU, for CPU you can replace it, if you break the compound bond between heatsink and cpu, otherwise don't even touch them IMO.
Fan upgrade is a good upgrade, best is to match characteristics of original FAN, otherwise you will have to guess fan speed to compensate for less air pulling fan.
Never soft mod a console... EVER.
8 hours ago, D3ATHCOR3DAD said:Lots of great suggestions guys, thanks. I'll likely still remove the Disk Drive as I'm wanting to do everything loaded from a drive like in the one video. I'll continue to do research and get other opinions before I settle on a final decision.
And yes, I'm either going to leave the original case just as is and give it a paintjob, or I'll 3D print a new case to house it all.
What advantage is there to taking out the DVD drive? I guess if you're gonna have a custom case... But you have your work cut out for you. Good luck!
-
zz, where are you man? Any updates on this endeavor?
-
On 11/21/2022 at 3:53 AM, MBL said:
Crystal XBOX v1.6.
Xecuter3 chip, Faceplate, LCD.
Xtender kit. (Space for 3 HDDs).
Crystal JoyTech 6" XBOX TFT colour screen. (Not ever managed to find another like it).
Holy shit. I remember the xtender. Selected hard drives by using the buttons to momentarily pass juice through one of the ide wires responsible for power or something, leaving the other drives stationary and keeping them from spooling up or initializing.
Haven't seen one in a long time...
-
On 11/22/2022 at 12:51 PM, big F said:
True most of us here have more than one box, those who were lucky enough to have bought the full fat X3 setup back in the day or go one prior to the “rare” tax being added to any that are sold probably do use the buttons.
I would still be up for printing an X3 style facia even if the buttons didn't work or were not there, just because they are cool and iconic.I do the same thing. I had an oc'd version and regular version of the x3 bios for compatibility reasons. Now I have cerbios and x3, both overclocked. Whatever. Lol.
-
I just got Monster component cables for the Xbox... Hope it wasn't a waste of money. Pretty expensive.
-
On 11/23/2022 at 12:23 PM, corona2222 said:
what is the reason for different sizes? is it just dependent on what a modchip expects or any reason to install 1024kb over 256kb if the mod chip can take either?
For different tsop versions/sizes. 1mb flashes need 4 copies of the 256k bios to boot properly and 512k flashes need 2 copies. 256k version is for smallest tsops and chips. I'm sure you could use the 512 and 1024 versions in chips, but it would serve no purpose.
Ah, once again, late to the party. That's what I get for taking a few days off.
-
1
-
-
On 11/20/2022 at 12:57 AM, Onaga said:
Where can I change fan speed?
Since Insignia I flashed my TSOP with EvoX M8+... I used to have iND before...
The problem is, I don't know where to setup the fan speed... I can change it in XBMC4GAMERS but as soon as I start a App or Game it changes back to low speed.
This is not good because I'm useing a different silence fan that needs to run at least with 80% speed to keep the Xbox cooled.
My Xbox HDD is installed with Hexen2020. It has all the other Dashboards and I tried everything... Dashboards from Apps folder, HexenTools folder, C Partition... but it won't work, it won't save the fan speed like it did with iND and his config file.
Any idea?
Have you tried modifying the bios file in evtool? Fan settings should be in there. Flash and you should be good. Just make sure it matches your xbmc speed so you don't have fluctuations like that.
Guess I was a little late. Kaos got you.
-
21 hours ago, zatchbot said:
There was a guy on Twitter selling a few. He had one with a bank switch loose so I grabbed it.
I think he still has a x3 pro switch box for $300.
A pro switch for 300. Good God,man. Does he have any more x3s?
Also, cerbios 2.1. NICE. Fixed a lot of stuff and 1.6 support. Now I can use it in my 1.6 halo edition. I'm waiting for that dual hdd support!
-
1 hour ago, Lisko said:
hi, in the end I redone everything from scratch using fatxplorer and single F partition with 128k cluster size. Now with more games than before it's flawless. Sorry I didn't try to open the drive in fatxplorer before wiping, could have been interesting
Aw,man. LoL. You're up and running though. Good.
-
4 hours ago, zatchbot said:
Nice!!! I haven't played with it yet because my Cerbios build is on a TSOP flash. I just bought an x3 for that box. Once it gets here I'm going to play with overclocking for sure!
It's easy. Just run that same bios through xboverclock, reflash your tsop with it, and you're good.
oh, you got an x3... Then use that. LoL. Where'd you pick up the x3 at?
-
Just wanted to share: I overclocked Cerbios (NV2 @ 285 and FSB @ 142) and that blue 720p boot animation does not stutter anymore. Nice and smooth.
-
3
-
-
20 hours ago, prtscn said:
Try deleting Games folder, might work. Never use XBMC for deleting or trasfering files. UnleashX is the best.
That would wipe out his collection that he's trying to recover... that would be bad. Lol
Can you take the drive out and access on a PC with FATXplorer? @Lisko
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
Python Script Function Inverter
in Games
Posted
I see. Yes, the textures in that game ARE very highly compressed and were always extremely ugly and unsightly. So if you manage to improve them, that would be pretty cool.