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"OGXBox Installer 2021 - v1.5.3" It boots a backup of an original game dvd! That wasa surprise. I think it is a little delayed, but it boots. Just left the thing running with the install disc and still hanging like 15+ minutes latter. Could it be finding some broken evoxdash? with a runnable disc in the drive it still tries to load evoxdash.xbe? I have tried it with no disc, but not for very long as that seemed the least likely to work. I will try that again and try swapping in one of my original xbox hdds. I have the original hdd for this xbox I believe, so that should boot I think.

I thought the default was not specifically evoxdash, but a general any dashboard one. But it was the default topmost option whatever that was.

Oh, that is fantastic. I thought I had really screwed something up when the evoX logo was gone. I had checked for "Green" since I saw it in the menu. It did not seem to be writen on the HDD, if I am remembering correctly it is a HDD Caviar. And yes, exactly as you described 1.0-1.4, noDVD, CEE. I am thinking it might just take a long time searching for my evox dash which is not installed yet. Other people with a handing boot splash were saying to check IDE connections, and I might just try removing my HDD entirely if it will boot without it. But I guess I probably need to get t to boot it with the hdd eventually, but I might have the ability to connect he HDD to my computer to format it, which could fix the issue.

Just the default, Evox m8+ CEE FG noDVD (evoxdash.xbe) (256kb). But that is the problem, no booting to dvd. Unless that bios has it searching the hard drive for a long time before it will boot to disc. Anyway I am doing to try checking all my IDE connections, and if it will boot without the hdd I will see if just disconnecting it will fix the hanging.

After Flashing the bios to the 1.0-1.4 version the xbox splash screen is missing the evox logo and is now Blue instead of the original green and it seems stuck at the screen.

the xbox startup screen is blue instead of green and the evox logo is gone? is this normal? seems stuck at this screen at least with the install disc in it.

Thanks for all the work keeping this upto date sweetdarkdestiny. I don't suppose someone should tell me everything I should install? You told me I needed, EvoX m8+ (1.0/1.4 - 256kb) (Aladdin advance (v1-1.6) + v1.0 xbox), but their seems to be like 20 different variants of that in this installer (VGA, noDVD, WD Green, .....). Also is EvoX just the Aladdin mod chip bios, or why do I use that one specifically? Then presumably, I should Format and setup HDD? And that seems to install all the basic applications along with it based on the documentation I am reading.

And I fixed it! Both the power and cdtray issue was surprisingly easy to fix. Now I am hoping Slayers evox auto installer is the right way to go, and then I should be done. that was actually pretty easy, thanks for all the help.

So it looks like it is worse than that. The dvd tray button stopped working, it opens and closes multiple times every boot, and I think I have even seen it shut itself off. Found this so will have to see if their is anything I can do. It will play any disc put into it. but I was unable to figure out if I am dual booting evox or not. I tried simply running the correct looking files from the manager, but all I got was reloading xbmc and once running xbox live. What sort of magnification should I look for? A lot of the soldering specific ones look too small to reach all parts of a motherboard and all the affordable ones are small and low magnification, but I see some general purpose 5x magnification lamps that looks big enough to fit and look through easily.

I am actually not having any luck with my searches. I am assuming their is a button to hold to boot to evoX? Their should be dozens of games installed on the HD, I am 99% sure I was still playing games on the xbox after I installed XBMC. I remember loading up Strangers Wrath not that long ago and I would not have been playing it from disc. I think I remember having to lookup a key to hold down to play it. Edit: when you boot with a game backup in the tray it opens and closes multiple times and then boots to xbmc. Will try to see if it recognizes a video disc or it is just suffering from the same problem as the power button now.

I used the backside D0, but it looks the same size to me, though it is easier to identify with less mess around it. And it works. Boots right to XBMC, should probably uninstall that as their smart tv/tablets will be better at video playing. It has been so long I cannot even remember how I played games on it. It did not look like there was any option to select games in XBMC, so maybe I have to hold a button as a boots or something. Also it looks like I have a always issue that seems to be caused by the clock capacitor overflowing among others and it did overflow. But honestly, that does not even sound like a particularly serious issue, does it even do any sort to slow/safe shutdown? Of bigger issue is I probably need new controllers. It looks like you can just buy them off of amazon. Should I just get something like PC Female USB to Xbox Converter Adapter Cable Cord and then a xbox 360 controller.

So I swapped PSUs and the second older 1.0 booted to the set clock page (I think I repaired the faulty PSU but swapped anyways). The power button would not turn it off from that page (not sure if that is normal) and I need to check if any of my controllers work, but that is pretty promising. I then proceeded to do the hard modding. I think everything is correct but the D0 connection is honestly too small for me to be able to see, and all I can really see on the header is that I have lots of solder on the pins. I keep being convinced to try fixing the older 1.0, but evey time I look at the traces it becomes clear that does not seem like a repair I can do. I can only see the damage when my face is like 5 inches from the board.

OK, I will give it a try. And thanks for spotting a potential problem a solder splash is how this all started.

I think I broke it. I am pretty sure those are missing contact points that used to have a circuit going through them. Is that fixable? should I just move on to the broken PSU xbox? Can I use the MB from it and the PSU from this botched one?

Any 2.54mm 2 layer will work? Or is it some other size? @SS_Dave

OK, I will order one. Thanks.

Hello again, The soldering iron I mentioned turned out to not really be the right type, so just got a new one delivered. The Clock capacitor came off pretty easily. But it is looking like the pin header is probably stuck on their pretty good, should I just use this "quick solder" method? I also found this pdf guide. If I followed that guide, but used the direct solder method shown in the video instead of the pin header would that be the correct way to do it for my chip on a v1.6?

Thanks again. I am assuming it would only be locked if it was the original harddrive? My original xbox with the modchip has a large (for the time at least) harddrive I added. This should be unlocked I assume? Anyway to tell? 3rd Edit: It is a Philips. 4th edit (out fo new posts): Thanks again, I never did do live so I will give it a go.

Hello all, Just got a bunch of broken xboxes out of storage to try and make something for my nephews birthday, and their is so much nostalgia here.

Thank you! am surprised that you do not need different modchip versions for different xboxes. Also, I would just reuse the IDE HDD from my old one if it still works. I am surprised it would make a difference, I remember no loading screens at all? Is their a particular guide you would recommend for the soldering, clock cap, and I assume bios flashing?

Hello all, Looking to get a Working Xbox for my nephew's birthday next month. I have my original modded xbox(1) that stopped working in storage, it has a little corrosion on the mod chips ground. It does nothing when powered. I also picked up 2 xboxes randomly a year or two ago that were thrown out. one (2) boots to a need service error, it defiantly sounds like a broken HDD. The other (3) does nothing like the first one, and has a short in the power connector. You can actually see light coming form under the connector with the top off. I welcome advice and help with where I should focus my efforts and what I should do. I assume that the ground being corroded on the mod chip would probably not produce the no boot? The HDD issue sounds like the easiest fix, can I just swap the HDD from the other non modded box to check if that is the only issue? And then I can just mod that xbox, I have not looked into what that would entail yet. But then the power connector short is probably a pretty simple fix as well. I do have a soldering iron, but was not the person who modded it originally and have little to no experience in that. (1) (the serial sticker is gone.) (2) (3)