calebTree

Nope, here was my rebuild. It still does the same thing. Now that I have these skills and experience behind me though I am brought back to my original question in a different form. This failure happened after I flashed a Kernel. Then, I read I could bypass the built in TSOP by installing the OpenXenium. Everything that I tried in the process of attempting to override the bad flash with the OpenXenium had no apparent affect on the behavior of the XBOX. It fragged when the flash broke it and it fragged all the way through the hardware mods in attempt to bypass the bad flash. Assuming the hardware is working correctly what could be going wrong?

Well, I put some time into it and did some homework. I recommend this video to learn how to correctly empty through holes and more: This video was also very important: For reference: my heat gun: Low - 50 - 350 C, High - 200 - 500 C, Air Flow: 450L/min a hot air rework station: 100 - 480 C, 20 - 130L/min After cleaning things up here is my result. This will still be a learning board no doubt. (top) (bottom) I'll have to put a few components back on and hope for the best when I try to work around the broken trace.

I wanted to revert to my stock BIOS after flashing iND.BIOS because the audio for the UnleashX dashboard wasn't successfully copying from the "Softmod Extras" disk for some reason: it was giving me empty folders. XBlast OS didn't acknowledge the eeprom.bin file that "The Softmodding Toolkit" created as a valid BIOS file though. Using XBlast OS I flashed a 5713 kernel I found here: Microsoft Xbox Dashboard / Kernel 4034, 4817, 4920 and 5659 Download | Digiex. To the (I'm assuming) TSOP (because that's what to the best of my knowledge XBlast OS does) thinking that was a generic BIOS. This 1.0 mainboard was originally a 3944 kernel. Why didn't XBlast OS recognize the eeprom.bin file from the Softmod backup? In retrospect, my intuition is that I flashed a completely incompatible file to the TSOP by flashing a 5713 kernel file. Is my retrospective intuition correct? If so, would the correct kernel file have worked, i.e. 3944? My last intuition is that these kernel files are completely dissimilar from BIOS files. Is that correct?

I can testify to that. I used the soak the sticker in IPA for a minute method then I used a blade and here was my result: The silver sticker appears to have a sophisticated tamper detection system. The barcode sticker is not any easier. I don't know what this person was doing that was so different but it appears simple in the video.

I am really glad I found this forum website. Last year when I started modding most of the content I found online was so outdated. Somehow I missed this website. Are unopened and unmodded XBOXs becoming more and more rare? Well, I suppose I know the obvious answer to that question - yes. My real question is to the professional collectors. What is your opinion on breaking of the stickers on and opening up suspected rare XBOXs? Do you do it when you get one to inspect for dust and corrosion or is it more important to a collector to keep the stickers intact? Aside from obviously rare limited edition XBOXs what version(s) 1.0-1.6b are the most rare? One would think 1.0 XBOXs are the most valued and desirable. Are 1.0 XBOXs desirable to collectors? Are certain versions 1.0-1.6b becoming more desirable or rare than others?

I'm giving up on this motherboard. Nevermind the above question, I found an image I had indicating that component was facing the correct direction. I have to give up on this board. Maybe I never should have cracked open this 1.0 XBOX, yet then I would never have learned these lessons. I was triple checking the contact on D0 and I accidently ripped off the pad and some of the trace. As an educational experience, mission accomplished. Would I have rather learned these lessons on anything other than this board? Mostly, although also I may have needed the pressure to push me forward.

My statements above are inaccurate after further testing. Blink pattern one: solid green then turns off and on then solid green then off and on then blinks red and green. Blink pattern two: sold green once then it turns off and on then blinks green twice then turns off and on then blinks red and green. The blinking pattern might be unpredictable but my last test showed that blink pattern two happened when the HDD and DVD were disconnected. The Open Xenium connected or disconnected from the header didn't make a difference. Can someone tell me if this SMD transistor Q7R1 is facing the correct direction? This was one component that fell off after using my heat gun. I had to guess which direction it should be facing. It appears from the pictures I could find that this is correct but most pictures are quite blurry. I also found page 78 of this old manual says that the boot behavior above is broken traces. XBOX REPAIR GUIDE (adriancallaghan.co.uk) In that case it might be impossible to find where the problem is.

The blinking pattern is different with my Open Xenium install attempt compared to without it. So that's interesting, what does that tell us? I'm not sure which either of them fit your table. Maybe 50% Green, 50% Red - digital core error? Here is the blinking pattern with the Open Xenium install attempt: Here is the blinking pattern without the Open Xenium: Without the HDD and DVD connected the blinking pattern is the same. I also amazingly found the tiny SMD capacitor but I put it back on and no change.

Oh wow, I didn't know those existed consumer grade. I've got some more research to do. I've got a higher end soldering iron but a nice rework station is an appealing option. Here is a professional one: Option 1 Here is the extreme low end: Option 2 I'm sure there are many in-between too. You're right I needed to take some more time on what I was doing. I am pretty confident in how I cleaned it up but it is still fragging and then there's the components I blew away with my heat gun. I am working on writing about my experiences on a website here. Rediscovering XBOX (calebdanderson.net)

Similar topic: Xbox 1.0 FRAGing even after modchip install - Repair - OGXbox.com Above ^ images C8R2 SMD capacitor blown off by my solder gun LAD0 on the LPC is the worst solder joint Lpc Diagnostics (V0.1) - Repair - OGXbox.com R7D1 resistor off center

I just want you to know that I am basically working on the same thing you are. I posted my first ever XBOX forum question last night (or 5 AM this morning however you want to look at it) since I started modding last year. Then I found this thread which begins to answer some of my initial questions about general diagnosis. For example I was not happy with my LPC header soldering at all for the same reasons you had removing the pre-loaded solder that exists on the 1.0s. There is a YouTube of a guy just doing it like it's nothing but at my pace it was going to take me a week with either soldering wick or my solder sucker. At least with my heatgun it was over. The statement below was kind of confirming yet my XBOX doesn't boot without the modchip too so it's less obvious what the problem is.

Hi, I am just wondering if anyone with more experience than me can tell me how bad this looks or about any diagnosis clues I can be aware of. The first XBOX I found on ebay last year was surprisingly not modded and I guessed it might be a 1.0. Because of that I didn't want to mod it or open it so I bought another cheap one that had already been opened. I had some fun with that one then I gave it away. In the meantime that 1.0 was calling my name and I bit the bullet and opened it up. Softmod went fine of course. HDD upgrade went fine. Then I wanted to try something more interesting. I looked up the RAM upgrade and it didn't look too bad. That actually went smooth. Luckily the 1.0 is the least work to short circuit the TSOP. So TSOP flash and 128MB RAM was working. I kind of surprised myself. I was fumbling around not really thinking through things and I wanted to see if I could flash an original BIOS back to it. That was the end of the fun for me. After the flash it reboots and goes into the blinking red. I realized the BIOS probably didn't like having 128MB RAM so I used my heat gut to remove my just added RAM. That wasn't it. I knew it I had a big project ahead of me. That was when I found the Open Xenium modchip that apparently is supposed to divert the boot to it's own BIOS. Hence my question in this forum. I didn't see how I was going to remove all that solder from the LPC ports with a solder braid or any other way for that matter. I realized I might be able to use my heat gun again. I had some bad luck and didn't realize how hot I was getting my board in the process either. I almost lost 3 components all together but I managed to get 2 of them back on. I circled the remaining problems in my pictures below. Is any of this repairable? The Open Xenium chip makes it to a red LED but XBOX still only boots to the blinking red lights. I was pretty happy with my soldering of the wire but not so happy with my soldering of the LPC jumpers. The board took some damage. From what the pictures say is this beyond repair? If the Open Xenium chip is making it to a red LED am I close? Thanks all you smart folks!