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Hey guys, I recently turned on my OG Xbox after MANY years in storage (mostly temperature controlled storage) and I had no idea about the issues about the capacitors and so on. The DVD Drive and HDD seems to still be working fine with no issues. All of my old data was still there and I wanted to save the data to a memory card. I have learned that it is possible to save the data to a USB as well, but I think it might require a Softmod or something. The Fan still blows heat normally so it appears to be cooling the unit properly. Sadly I can't get the data from the drive at the moment. I tried to show plenty of pictures below as well. I have a few questions and concerns. Shortly after plugging in the unit I heard: -- 2 pops, but the console turned on and ran fine for a while (XB Dashboard and within a game). -- After a while my video went fuzzy\scrambled, reset and it started to FRAG during the game. (2 resets and Red\Green blinking) with no video). -- No smoke\smell or anything and I was able to open the tray to remove my disk. -- Same results after hard reset (FRAG). I did some research and learned more about the capacitor issue. I didn’t know any of this stuff before. I saw 2 busted capacitors from what I can see (those 2 pops). -- The Clock capacitor, which I eventually removed + cleaned the area (top and bottom) -- The PSU appears to have one leaking capacitor. Clock Capacitor: Battery Cap Leak - https://i.postimg.cc/jdfhZk4D/Fresh-leak.jpg Acid Corrosion - https://i.postimg.cc/BnGBycmM/Corroding-leak.jpg Battery Leak Cleaned - https://i.postimg.cc/9QtYjRSV/Cleaned.jpg Bottom of board Cleaned - https://i.postimg.cc/sfqcPR7F/Bottom-Cleaning.jpg Not knowing any better I let the clock “acid” sit there for a few days before cleaning because I was thinking about sending it in for repairs or something, but after reading more I decided to open it up and remove the Clock cap. It was pretty much corroded at this point and the leaked acid started to look horrible on my board. I cleaned it with 91% alcohol + Q-tips. For the corrosion I also scrapped some of the left over residue and kept wiping the entire area gently. The spill traveled further than I originally though. I checked the bottom of the board and saw a light cloudy color, but nothing too serious so I cleaned it up as well. Since the board was opened I decided to clean\wipe down the entire board from top and bottom. The board was in great condition, not too dirty\dusty, but since I had it opened….why not right? Power Supply Unit: PSU Cap Leak A - https://i.postimg.cc/Fs0jjkhc/PSU-Capacitor-lea-A.jpg PSU Cap Leak B - https://i.postimg.cc/447vxFMW/PSU-Capacitor-leak-B.jpg PSU Cap Leak C - https://i.postimg.cc/W1ngyRF1/PSU-Capacitor-leak-C.jpg PSU Cap Leak D - https://i.postimg.cc/8CzMQyMB/PSU-Capacitor-leak-D.jpg PSU Cap Leak E - https://i.postimg.cc/j27y3LNp/PSU-Capacitor-leak-E.jpg PSU Bottom A - https://i.postimg.cc/PfgWpQnT/PSU-Bottom-A.jpg PSU Bottom B - https://i.postimg.cc/P5h1Kfq7/PSU-Bottom-B.jpg Based on my research I have an Xbox v1.3 revision. The PSU capacitor leak looks fine on the bottom of the PSU and it appears that I have one of the “reinforced” PSUs that should not spark or cause a potential fire due the power connector\solder joint issue (constant insertion and removal of the power cable from what I’ve learned so far). Also, I did NOT wipe the PSU clean\wipe down top and bottom and honestly I didn’t want to touch it. Can someone tell me how long it takes for the PSU to drain and becomes much safer to handle? I know that PSUs (not just OG Xbox’s) can hold a charge for a very long time after being unplugged. I never touched it while cleaning the Clock capacitor leak. I let it (PSU) sit for roughly 10 days so I suppose it was safe to handle. I wasn't going to touch it, but I wanted to check the bottom of the PSU to see if there was any damage. I pretty much pulled it out and re-installed it by using the cabling and not even touching the damn thing. I have a Foxlink PSU, but I wanted to replace it with another one of the three brands. I believe they are interchangeable from what I’ve read. I noticed that the cable “color” was a bit different on the Delta, but the pinouts are the same I believe. I have the OG Xbox surge protector on the way just to be safe. Before investing into another PSU I was wondering what could be the harm in plugging in my current Foxlink with the leaking capacitor that already popped just to check and “see” if the console boots with no errors. If it boots to the Dashboard then I could turn it off and place the order for a replacement unit. Any potential issues with trying this before spending money on a PSU? Also I'd like to know an estimated amount of time that the PSU can hold a charge.

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Hello! I decided to open up my softmodded Xbox made in july 2002. It has partially stopped working around 2008 and I remember replacing the hard disk did not help it back then. I dont remember the exact symptoms it had, but I remember considering it broken so I bought another one for cheap and stored this one for 15 years. So I wanted to give a try of repairing it today after learning about the clock capacitor problems, considering the fact that the console is still very clean globally and even have the OG box. When I first tried to turn it on, I had nearly no image showing on the screen, except a very dimmed and freezed green circle in the middle. I turned it back on and everything seemed fine, I was able to play a game with no problem for 5 minutes before deciding to turn it off and open it to have a look. Here is all the photos I took. The clock capacitor obviously leaked, but I can't quite tell how far the acid went as the whole board seem covered in dust. I plan on cleaning the surrounds with vinegar and then with IPA, but I don't know a lot about electronics so I wonder if there was anything you would do or avoid to do in this case. Also, can the softmod mess up something or has it likely absolutely nothing to do with potential failures? I must have played the console 1 or 2 years with the softmod without problems before it broke. Thank you all for your precious help!

Hello all! A few months back a got my first OG Xbox, but the DVD drive was broken. I ended up buying a second Xbox for parts with a working drive and swapped them out (I ended up getting lucky, it was a Samsung drive). So a couple days ago I pulled out my spare Xbox and found the only problem with it was the power button not turning the console on/off. The console would power on when plugged in, which looking into this online told me its a common problem. So I ended borrowing the working drive and softmodding it. Everything was going perfectly until I was playing some snes9x and the console was smoking! Turns out the clock capicitor was leaking on the motherboard and melting. I knew about the clock capicitor issues, but stupid me thought I'd just do it later. So I cleaned up the mess and removed the capicitor, but it left some irreversible damage. Now the console will boot up and work fine for 5 minutes before suddenly turning off. I inspected the motherboard and noticed it had some corrosion on the "A Line" (Source: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php%3F/topic/29-how-to-fix-trace-corrosion/&ved=2ahUKEwjl4szT1bn7AhXbjokEHQddBoEQFnoECA4QAQ&usg=AOvVaw1PMDAuq47ME_GX_0VJ58Ll). I'm not sure if the clock capicitor melt down has something to do with this new issue (most likely do does) or if the corrosion has gotten worse from the whole incident. I'm posting pictures below. I think the best method moving forward would be to try and solder in a wire workaround (From source above). I need some advice, whats the best move moving forward? I want to save this Xbox if I can.