DobaMuffin
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Posts posted by DobaMuffin
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30 minutes ago, ShinGoutetsu said:
With the adapter attached it's 74mm long by 63mm wide by 30mm high (approximately).
There is a fair amount of space where the xbox fan would normally be in the mini case so that could be utilised for a psu and then run wires and connector to where they need to plug in.
I'll have to design and test the psu first. I'll try to keep it in that size or smaller (Shouldn't be difficult) and then go from there.
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2 minutes ago, ShinGoutetsu said:
Sounds great, if you ever make one small enough for my mini design I'd be very interested.
One of the reasons I want to make some. I plan on making at least 2 of these systems once you release the files and I need power supplies so I figured why not take a shot at designing my own. What are the dimensions of the current power supply solution?
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6 minutes ago, ShinGoutetsu said:
Did you mean the whole atx to xbox adapter or just the connector?
If you meant just the connector I got it from ebay:
If you meant the whole atx to xbox adapter I bought the pcb's from dirtypcbs.com, they have a list of the required smd components printed on the back. It was actually designed by N64 Freak
Thanks. I was just looking for the connector. I want to eventually create DC-DC power supplies for the original xbox and I would need to source the various connectors to do so.
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4 hours ago, ShinGoutetsu said:
So the new psu arrived today, it's an Inter-Tech mini itx psu (model 88882190)
This claims to output 5v at 12A and can supply up to 200w depending on the AC adapter.
This should mean that no filter caps need to be removed as 12A is plenty when running without a dvd rom and using a 2.5" hdd. Will test as soon as my AC adapter arrives.
Do you know where to get that power connector for the 1.0 xbox? I can't quite find it online.
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On 2/20/2021 at 12:36 PM, ShinGoutetsu said:
So I've tested the tinted plexi lid with the dual oled displays and the effect is pretty good, not too bright or distracting
Looking really good. How are the screens mounted to the case? I see the holes for them, but couldn't see anything to mount them to it.
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Just now, ShinGoutetsu said:
The acrylic piece on top is 3mm thick, I will be attaching it probably with very thin magnets similar to the way apple attach the glass to their Imac screens. This can then be lifted off with a suction cup if needed. This will be added to the design in its final stages.
I have redesigned the cpu/gpu bracket for alternative heatsinks and fans (socket 470 1U server heatsink and fan for the cpu) but I am not currently happy with it so will be revising it before release. It needs to be strong enough to withstand the heat so I will probably use ABS to print it. You cannot use the stock cpu heatsink with this case.
Nice idea with the acrylic piece. I just thought it would be double sided taped to the plastic. As for the heatsinks, yeah I understand what you mean. I guess I'd have to print that in petg, which should be good for the job.
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56 minutes ago, ShinGoutetsu said:
Quick test assembly and showing the sata hdd bracket (which i've since revised, the sharpie marks are the adjustments I had to make). It is finally becoming a reality.
I've also ordered the acrylic tinted top part, installed the xenium fusion and prepped the hdd.
Lovely work so far. I am curious about the acrylic piece on top. How are you attaching it to the top 3d printed piece, and how thick is the acrylic? I know if you release the files for this case, that I would be able to make everything but the top acrylic piece. I am also curious about the space above the cpu and gpu. Is there enough space to add the original heatsinks?
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On 1/17/2021 at 8:27 AM, williamgentry said:
Sorry to comment on an old topid
I was wondering if you knew where to get a copy of the Eurasia memory card.
Or perhaps a mirror of the website.
I had a copy of most things on my hard drive and stupid me, I didn't back it up and died.
The internet archive has a lot of the pages saved for news and the wiki, but the downloads section required an account to access and hence archive.org never saved all of the downloads.
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17 minutes ago, ShinGoutetsu said:
It's all about the way it's sliced I guess. I have put 1.1 boards into Crystal (1.6) cases so I understand what is required and the problems it introduces
As soon as I'm happy with the v1.1 version I'll release the files and you can try other revision boards. I'd appreciate the feedback, thank you
I'd probably see about making 2 of them, one in red and one in a dark blue filament. Would probably put a 1.2/3/4 (no clue which it is) and a 1.0 in them. Just for fun. I'd definitely let you know how they fit. It would pair well with diy component cables.
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1 hour ago, ShinGoutetsu said:
The case dimensions are 240mm wide x 210mm deep x 50mm tall which will be slightly too big to print on your printer unfortunately. I'm sure I'll get plenty of feedback from other people though on release and I'll be sure to state very clearly that this was designed primarily for a 1.1 so revisions might be required for other version xboxs.
I could make that fit none the less. It may just be printed in an unconventional way lol. Also I love getting xbox motherboards to fit in other revision cases. I added a 1.6 into a 1.4 case. Involved cutting screw pegs down a little bit and completely removing another one. Looking forward to release. Keep up the good work.
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3 hours ago, ShinGoutetsu said:
I'm using a v1.1, there's no controller daughterboard which is one less thing for me to have to allow space for. Other board revisions have capacitors in different places making it hard to come up with a universal design. I have omitted the motherboard screwhole nearest the av port in case anyone wants to try a v1.6 but other boards it will be some trial and error. I don't unfortunately have every revision to test with but i will attempt to make it as universal as possible with any feedback I receive.
The atx to xbox adapter is one of N64 Freak's designs, you can find it on dirtypcbs.com if you search atx to xbox, there is no 1.6 version though.
The psu I'm using is a picopsu.
Once you're done the initial design to a point that you're happy with, I'd certainly be willing to print and test a case. I have a few different revision motherboards lying around. The only problem may be if it's too big for my print bed.
Edit: Just checked my printer specifications. My max print size is 235x235x250mm. Though I do have pretty colours to print in.
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33 minutes ago, sinclairuser said:
it has a custom power connector, and special firmware so it can read xbox dvds, my own belief is that any dvd drive could be made to operate on an xbox, back in the day two dvd drive models were discovered that could be made to work with mods and firmware, there are others i'm convinced of it luckily i have a work mate who understands drive firmware, in order to replicate the drive i need to know how it operates mechanically and electronically.
I know you can mod normal ide drives to be used on an original xbox, just without the ability to read xbox game discs. These links hsould have some info.
https://web.archive.org/web/20080821024402/http://www.xbox-linux.org:80/docs/pcdvd.html https://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?19300-Using-a-PC-dvd-drive-on-a-classic-xbox
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I see your model uses a 1.0 motherboard. Are you planning on designing it for 1.0 or just the 1.1+ boards? Also what connector did you use in that model to connect the power adapter board to the console?
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On 2/5/2021 at 3:50 AM, ShinGoutetsu said:
Now for the front, back and corner pieces. Another 20 plus hours printing
That looks really good so far
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I think DriveDroid works too, but you need a rooted android device for that.
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7 hours ago, dirtykash said:
Clear cases I painted myself
Nice. Unfortunately Crystal consoles aren't overly common where I live so I'd never do that to my own.
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8 hours ago, SS_Dave said:
I give lightly rusted cages a light sand and then hit it with a rust converter then a coat of paint.
I did a crystal Xbox and no one has picked up that thee shield is painted silver.
Cheers
SS Dave
Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.That makes total sense. I guess since the plastic is only semi transparent it hides the fact that it's painted a little bit more.
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4 hours ago, GoTeamScotch said:
It allows a person to use a folder on a computer as if the folder was a disc sitting inside the Xbox's DVD drive. Alternatively, they could connect a hard drive (to the PC card's IDE port, pictured above) that contains the contents of the DVD disc. The equipment will mimic a DVD drive, including tray state (open/closed/busy) and read speeds. Hard drives are obviously faster than DVD drives, so it limits the bandwidth down to that of a DVD drive so devs could see how fast their game would load. This tool ("Xbox DVD Layout Tool") was used back in the day when game studios would go to author their game discs. It let devs decide where files would physically go on the disc so as to optimize the placement of files. So, files for one level in a game could be located next to each other on the disc to reduce the amount of seeks going on while loading. Once they have everything optimized, they would burn the final "gold" disc.
Ok I will admit that sounds very interesting.
It should be achievable to someone with the right knowledge, but I guess an ode of any form would need to be created first.
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On 10/15/2020 at 1:50 PM, dirtykash said:
Hi all, just thought I’d post 3 mods I just finished.
What you think?
What kind of cases are those? Dyed crystal consoles?
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On 9/16/2020 at 5:06 PM, sh0rtlife said:
you can actualy use a few things for rust....
but let me be crystal clear here, unless the rust is STOPPED and no moisture of any kind ever gets around it..it WILL rust again...i deal with rust on an almostr daily basis rebuilding old cars, and your painted tins can still be rusting under cheep rattle can paint
while you can rattle can over them and get lucky....for now...its not a fix its a bandaid, sure that bandaid in a home may work fine for 10+ years but it can also fail in weeks if you have AC or a humidifier in the home
in the case of delicate console tins i would grab some "evapo rust" (lots of other options here), then take a good look at what the surface looks like afterwords, heck even on a crystal you could save trashed tins with some "effort", if your hell bent on just painting them, sand, wipe with laqure thinner, then shoot with EPOXY PRIMER or some form of "engine paint" ...rustolium is NOT a rust proofer by anymeans and is...garbage
What are good budget rust proofers? I currently have a crystal xbox I want to repair the metal shielding on, but I'm not sure if its worth using electrolysis to remove the rust, then electroplating it in a layer of tin, zinc, or nickel.
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On 1/22/2021 at 6:22 PM, bez84 said:
Haven't seen a good option to replace duke thumbsticks yet.
To replace the Duke thumbsticks, you most likely need to cannibalize from broken duke controllers, or from third party controllers with very similar thumsticks.
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On 2/1/2021 at 10:09 PM, GoTeamScotch said:
Maybe someday someone can clone the XDK's drive emulator...
What kind of functionality did it have?
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On 1/23/2021 at 2:36 AM, Raja said:
The older first generation Garmin GPS Works the same way. May be other brand GPS works as well.
I think its any device that can act as a usb flash drive when connected via a usb port. Though I'm not sure they are all happy with being formatted into whatever the xbox needs.
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9 hours ago, sweetdarkdestiny said:
DHL : 7,35 € (Tracked). If you can't fix your board, my offer still stands.
Thanks for the offer. I'm currently good on disc drives, so its not a top priority to repair the board, but if I can't repair the board, I'll hit you up on that offer.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
Anybody Here Use a Kernel Debugger With Their Debug Kits?
in Hardware Mods
Posted
I never really left. Just took a long pause from anything xbox to focus on school and work.