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Posts posted by DARK A
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On 1/24/2024 at 8:07 PM, Bowlsnapper said:
Are you SURE this HDD is still good?
On 1/25/2024 at 2:59 AM, Marty said:Lets see some pics of your wiring.
18 hours ago, nikeymikey said:That's some flamethrower soldering on that cool runner.
I would redo all those joints with leaded solder and PLENTY of flux. This will give you much cleaner connections there.
Also the connections on the motherboard itself, are they soldered or just held in place with that tape?
I would try and get a correct power supply for your model just to be certain that isn't causing an issue.
7 hours ago, Fringle said:All 360's use SATA for the DVD and hdd. It's not just limited to slims, with the Phat console it's just a custom eSATA connector for the hdd. Take a good quality picture of the HDD connector and pin header solder. Could be a bridge or missing component from the board.
sorry everyone for the inconvenience but let me explain what happened
i didn't look inside the port with a camera because i already cleaned it with 99% alchool and a toothbrush two times so i thought there was no need to look at it
but thanks to allah then fringle for his replay i took a picture inside the port and look what i found a piece of plastic how did it get here and where did it come from ?
my guess is its from the one who owned it before maybe it was on top and after multiple connecting and disconnecting it fall
after i removed it the hdd working no problem thank allah
so thank you everyone so much and sorry for the inconvenience
im gonna just disconnect the dvd and use the console without it
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10 minutes ago, nikeymikey said:
Might be a silly question.... But why don't you just leave the DVD drive out of the system if it works and you can play games on Aurora without it?
I haven't used the DVD in my 360 in years.
i was going to do that and i put thermal pads on the memory and got a new psu and i was ready to put it back toghter untill i found out the hdd is not working
the weird thing is i have another retail flacon i did test the psu with had no problem everything is working
i was thinking maybe the pad the heatsinks caused some short to something im not electrician so i dont know to figure it out .
btw thanks for the replay
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6 minutes ago, nikeymikey said:
That's some flamethrower soldering on that cool runner.
I would redo all those joints with leaded solder and PLENTY of flux. This will give you much cleaner connections there.
Also the connections on the motherboard itself, are they soldered or just held in place with that tape?
I would try and get a correct power supply for your model just to be certain that isn't causing an issue.
lol
no they are soldered i can glitch the console without dvd and play games from arura no problem,
before the hdd problem started now i can launch aurora from external hdd no problem only if there is no dvd
so you think it could be my coolrunner soldering is the problem ?
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20 hours ago, nikeymikey said:
If it IS fried then not a lot other than to find the blown components and replace them one by one.
how to do that ? and btw i have zero knowledge in electricity
14 hours ago, Marty said:Lets see some pics of your wiring.
here you go
10 hours ago, Fringle said:Sounds like your wiring isn't all that good. The console should glitch with the dvd drive connected. Only reason it wouldn't is due to it drawing extra power or something along those lines which leads back to your wiring. Shorten your wires and try different resistor values. As for the HDD not working, it sounds like you borked the port. Try blowing it out with compressed air or looking for any shorts on the pins. Could possibly be also related to it not booting with the dvd drive attached since they both connect to the SATA bus. Go over the entire board with a fine tooth comb and make sure there are no solder bridges/shorts. Post high res pictures so someone else can take a look and possibly pick up something you don't see.
im using rgh 1.2 so no resister im using cool runner
how to look for shorts on the pins and which pin is that
its been booting before i added thermal pads and heatsinks to memory and before using the new psu
only the dvd will not make the console boot it make cool runner blinking green forever
btw its fat not slim so i dont think its sata bus
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2 hours ago, Marty said:
Why would the DVD drive make the console glitch? Can you boot into Xell by starting the machine with the EJECT button?
i didnt mean it make it glitch i mean it doesnt make it glitch and no it doesnt boot to xell if its connected i have to unplug it
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3 hours ago, nikeymikey said:
If it IS fried then not a lot other than to find the blown components and replace them one by one.
can i use external drive as the main drive for the console via usb ?
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48 minutes ago, nikeymikey said:
Not really, You would be better off in a 360 specific site.
However.... I do know that power supplies do DIFFER between different revisions of 360. Not only do the plugs differ slightly but the wattage differs too so there is a possibility you have fried your console.
it has more wattage but its the same as old one 12v ,
if i did really fried it what can i do ?
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47 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:
Are you SURE this HDD is still good?
yes i try different hdd same thing it doesn't show up in storage
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40 minutes ago, lopenator said:
This an OG Xbox forum.
yeah i know but most people here know a lot about 360
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hello everyone
i finished rgh 1.2 my falcon 360
everything is working except the dvd drive it dosnt seem to make the console glitch it just stuck in loop so i removed anyway
i was thinking of cooling the memory so i added a thermal pad and heat sinks to these , (ps not my picture )
and after that it doesn't recognize any hdd connected i try the hdd in another console its fully working
i removed the pads same problem
what can be the problem
ps i got a new psu since someone told me that maybe my old psu is faulty (after i added the pads i didnt try the console with old psu so i dont know is it the new psu that killed the port or is it pads or somthing else ?) and its much higher watt 203watt i try it in a diffrent console before trying it on this console and didnt have problems
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On 1/13/2024 at 8:11 PM, MadMartigan said:
Can you share what all you did? I’m desperately looking everywhere on info the convert the other way around (220-110). All I’m getting is dead ends.
which version do you have ?
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On 1/3/2024 at 5:06 AM, DARK A said:
i try directly into the wall
now its yellow or green im not sure , anyway the cool runner now blink 3 times then stop for 2 secend on repeat i left it for 5 minutes same thing no booting or display
anyone can help ?
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1 hour ago, Marty said:
Sounds like adding the extra device (DVD) is putting too much strain on a failing power brick.
If you're plugging the power brick into a power bar or surge suppressor, try plugging it straight into the wall outlet.
i try directly into the wall
now its yellow or green im not sure , anyway the cool runner now blink 3 times then stop for 2 secend on repeat i left it for 5 minutes same thing no booting or display
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30 minutes ago, Marty said:
Sounds like adding the extra device (DVD) is putting too much strain on a failing power brick.
If you're plugging the power brick into a power bar or surge suppressor, try plugging it straight into the wall outlet.
thanks for the info
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29 minutes ago, Marty said:
Do you have another power brick to test with?
Are you getting any error lights on the power brick?
Stock hard drive, or do you have another hard drive to test with?
sadly no
yes red sometimes
yes
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23 minutes ago, Donnie-Burger said:
Yeah sorry forgot not rgh3. So no boot with dvd is still interference - Gotta try routing cables away from some components that cause this. Post and CPU are sensitive.
i already got them away from each other when i was managing the wires
just to make sure is post and cpu on cool runner a and d ?
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19 hours ago, Donnie-Burger said:
This is normal on some rgh 1.2 installs. Its interference with the pulse waves during glitch cycles. Can you show some pictures of your wire routing? Are you using a resistor on PLL? If you are what value? Are you using Diode on post? If so the right one? Also, what chip and timing file are you using. Some will behave oddly. I like to test with dvd re-attached and top case installed. These 2 will change your glitch values sometimes.
I only RGH 1.2 phats now since rgh3 can be picky on some phats.
Slims I RGH3 all day and noticed that some trinities will short resistor and you will get black screen at boot until you replace or remove resistor. Coronas have never done this to me so I've opted to not use resistors on Trinity mobos anymore.
Use this J-Runner from Octal450: https://github.com/Octal450/J-Runner-with-Extras/releases/tag/V3.3.0-r2
Hope this helped.
im not near it to take picture .
its rgh 1.2 so no resister or diode
im using mario tutorial
im already using jrunner with extra
i did a better wires managment and it boot now no problem if i did not connect the dvd it work with hdd no problem
the problem now only with the dvd what can be the cause ?
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i figured it out what the problem was it was cpu rst the alternive one showed in mario video it wasnt working for me i did the one under the xclamp now everything was working untill i connected the dvd now sometimes it boot sometimes it dont and show red light
i think my cable management is very bad or is it something to do with the dvd ?
and if its the cable management can someone show me a better management for all the wires ?
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57 minutes ago, DARK A said:
i try diffrent console
i got read nand no problem and i creat and write xell no problem
i try booting the console with eject to get the key it turn on by flashing the middle light only and there is no display neither hd or av
im i doing somthing wrong ?
btw the console is japanese falcon
read this
29 minutes ago, Donnie-Burger said:Use flux. many brands out there - Kingbo, Amtech etc
This one is legit: (Super cheap, big container and lasts a long time)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143408532066
thanks but i did a better job on the next console
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47 minutes ago, lopenator said:
that soldering looks horrible dude.
I don't mean to be mean but I'm honest.
yeah i know haha i did a better job on a diffrent console
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i try diffrent console
i got read nand no problem and i creat and write xell no problem
i try booting the console with eject to get the key it turn on by flashing the middle light only and there is no display neither hd or av
im i doing somthing wrong ?
btw the console is japanese falcon
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12 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:
Are you afraid of losing your original flash? Is that what your concern is? ... I wouldn't be As long as your flash is good, of course.
What was your output, anyway? Was anything actually succesfully written with jrunner? Are you able to boot right now? If all you had was unsuccessful writes and you can still boot, just run again using the tutorial and jrunner will do everything for you, step by step!
its not the flash its the nand i think its corrupted.
my output is i try both hd and av nothing shows up.
yes after using picoflasher every time i read and write i got successful with no errors.
no i only get middle light blinking and some times 2 red light up right and down left
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On 12/26/2023 at 2:12 AM, Bowlsnapper said:
Not trying to give you a hard time at all. The wires that come with the programmer are honestly bigger than you wanna be dealing with, if you can help it. I used a pi pico and used 30AWG wire. It gives you much more room to work with and isn't individually stranded.
Check the zoomed full photo. You'll see what I mean.
i figured it
it wasnt my soldering it was jr programmer it wasnt working that good
i switch to picoflasher and its fully working .
so how to retun to stock or working nand now ?
because i lost my original nand , my console is falconor is the console done for ?
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1 hour ago, Bowlsnapper said:
J runner should do all of this automatically since it's pretty thorough. that soldering needs to be done better so you know it won't be a problem for you. I would use kynar wire for those points. The wire you're using is friggin HUGE. You're making sure to use plenty of flux, right?
im using the wires that came with jr programmer
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
XBox Power Supply Question
in Hardware Mods
Posted
sorry for the late replay
the only version i try it on was v1 and i only followed ss_dave info all i did was removing the jumper wire infront of the left capacitor and the yellow transister right to right cap and it worked
btw im not electraion so responsible for any damge that it may cause i only followed dave info
here is the picture of the same psu v1 for both pal and ntsc and what to remove but be careful
https://imgur.com/a/g5nWjqw