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FrostyMaGee

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Posts posted by FrostyMaGee

  1. 21 hours ago, KomradeRed said:

    Thank you it worked well without the modchip and started up right away.
    I will desolder the modchip later but from what I understand it is unsalvageable now correct ?

    Other from the modchip this repair was a complete success as everything is working now so thank you for the invaluable info and helping me fix that. 
    The only other thing is that one of the official controllers for it isnt working but I am 99% sure it is the wire coming loose because he had it wrapped very tightly around the controller itself haha.

     

    Didnt know about that and now that I searched around it sounds like a common problem, thank you for bringing it up as I would now have found it otherwise before it was too late. Going to remove it and clean up the motherboard with some alcohol to make sure everything is ok and will continue to be working.     

      

    Definitely hit the underside of the mobo when you’re doing the cleanup for this as well. I’d just give the whole thing a good once over with some 99 percent ipa and a soft bristle brush while I had it out but at the very least do about a 3-4 inch circle around the clock cap area. You may have already read that but I figured I’d mention it just in case. 
     

    Some optional things you could do if you wanted to:

    -recap the motherboard or at least replace the five gray power caps near the cpu if they’re still the original. These are a common point of failure on the Xbox mobos. I like to do a recap of the whole thing when I work on them but at the very least I do those. 
    -Once you remove the old hardmod you could install a pin header in the lpc port which would make your next chip install a bit easier with most of the modern versions of the hard mods. You’d still have to do D0 but that’s easy enough. 
     

    Anyway that’s just some things I thought about while reading this. @nikeymikey probably covered it and a bunch more already in a pm but figured I’d throw it out there. Glad you were able to get it booting normally though!

    • Like 1
  2. 4 hours ago, PRince404 said:

    I've seen a lot of people who ripped off the GPU alongside with the heatsink on r/originalxbox. I guess it's only a issue with 1.6 rev. 

    No you’re right Prince and it’s with all revs. If people remove the heat sinks incorrectly ( like most all of us have seen someone do at some point and we’ve even seen some YouTube videos telling people to pry off the gpu heat sink…ugh) you can definitely damage it irreparably. As you know I’m always quick to warn people on here about doing it the correct way otherwise the result may be disastrous. Probably too much. Lol :D 

    • Like 1
  3. 2 hours ago, Zac_The_Guy said:

    Nothing on the screen. 

    That’s most likely still coming down to trace repair. Just for grins you could follow those four traces from beginning to end and clean with some 99 percent (or 91 percent if that’s what you have but nothing lower) and a soft bristled brush. It honestly wouldn’t hurt to do this to the whole board anyway. You’re still going to end up having to do the other trace repair though. I’m sure that’s not really what you wanted to hear. Oh and as to your comments about “stupid questions” et al don’t think anything of it. We all had to start somewhere and we all had to learn by advice from others and by doing. :) Just takes time and practice. Everyone here is happy to help out. 
     

    Oh one other question…was it your console that had the fan maxing out right from the start and if so is it still doing it since you’ve removed the previous trace repair attempt?

    • Like 1
  4. 4 hours ago, Zac_The_Guy said:

    Oh my god. Put him back together, and he’s not fragging anymore!…but he still sucks. Now, he turns on and off, and on, and off, and on, and off, and…He’s not even triple booting, since it would usually give up after the third attempt. He just goes on, and off over and over. I…I don’t know anymore. Help?

    Does it ever actually boot during this or is it just power cycling over and over with nothing on screen?

  5. 5 minutes ago, Zac_The_Guy said:

    Oh! Alright! I can do that! Thanks! Another question since you seem to be a "smart", was I soldering in the right place with that white wire. You can see how on one of the lines I ripped off one of the pads. I was told to put it...on top or on bottom, I'm not sure. Could you draw where I have to do it? Thanks!

    If you follow the trace past the pad you ripped off you should be able to solder to it as @nikeymikey mentioned doing. This would be on the bottom side of the mobo and you would be laying and soldering the wire on top of the problem trace (past the ripped pad) so they’re in line with each other as demonstrated in his pic above. 

    • Like 1
  6. 36 minutes ago, NokSueCow said:

    Post a zoomed in pic of the a/v port on the back, and the cable connector pins. They could be bent.

    I was thinking the same thing… that something on either the connector or port has gotten bent. 

  7. 9 minutes ago, Zac_The_Guy said:

    Alright, I'ma open it up tomorrow (I hope) and I'll take pictures of the wires so you guys can see where I fucked up. Either way, then I'll desolder them, and turn it back on. If that doesn't do it...ha ha, HA HA HA HA HA...yeah I'll go mad. I'll probably start a new thread since now I know it's fragging and it's not the GROD.

    Not just the wires but some closer ones of the entire mobo would be good. It’s possible there’s some solder splash further away than the initial work areas. Maybe one of us will be able to spot something if the wires look fine. Just figured I’d save you some time of possibly needing to do it later. :D 

  8. It’s a little short. I’ve heard people doing it with a 19” with some very creative folding and rerouting but it’s much easier if you can find around a 24” cable. Other than the possible length issue everything else looks good. Due to how the original custom cables were made you’ll have to put these in backwards (as compared to how you’d install it in a pc) hence the extra length making things easier. 

  9. 25 minutes ago, NokSueCow said:

    I'm wanting to try some Xbox demo builds. They are all bin/cue.

    Ah ok. Wow I didn’t realize they used that format back with some of the demos. Interesting. There used to be a bin2iso program that converted and a couple of others that may work. There’s another one that seemed to work well but I can’t think of it at the moment. I believe you still needed the cue file if it was a multitrack bin. If you had a single bin and converted to iso I don’t think it’s necessary. Damn it’s been too long since I did any of that and I can’t recall for sure. Lol. Wish I could be more help than that. Maybe it’ll come back to me. :D 

  10. Are you trying to do this for the PlayStation emulator? If so the bin/cue file is the way to go over iso. There is CHD but I can’t recall if the PlayStation emulator on the Xbox will run those. I’ve done chd on other Ps1 emus but not on the og Xbox. I ended up just leaving it bin/cue and editing the cue file when necessary (bin name changes, multi disc/tracks, etc). 

  11. 1 hour ago, Pete1408 said:

    Thanks for the info

    yeah i dont know how to remove a PSU without touching it hahah for the swap

    im pretty sure crystal is dead but ill open it to make sure first ig

     

    i see ive ordered the ide cable as well etc now, i was hoping i could just copy and paste an already modded drive?

    You can wear some nitrile gloves (I usually wear these for working on consoles anyway) or something else for an extra measure of protection when removing or reinstalling the PSU. Just be careful when removing the two screws and be sure not to hit anything with your screwdriver on the board or touch any metal to it or the underside. The biggest thing you want to avoid is bridging a connection so that it shorts or discharges in to you! At the very least it’ll give you a proper shock but at worst you can really hurt yourself. Just be careful and take your time and you should be good. 

  12. Welcome to the site! We have some UK based members here so it’s good for them to have another locally based mod shop. Since many of us are US based it’s not always feasible for UK to avail themselves of services or hands on help. 
     

    Enjoy and see you around the forums. 

    • Thanks 1
  13. 2 hours ago, Shmingers said:

    Hi, sorry for the delay, I haven't tried replacing the power supply yet, I'm waiting to see if replacing the standby power triode does the trick. Still waiting for the part.

    I replaced the five power rail caps on the motherboard. As above, still waiting to see if the standby transistor was the issue. Hoping the bulging cap on the PSU is a secondary issue and I can find a replacement. Worst case, thank you, I'll come calling about your spare.  :)

    The bulging psu cap is a 3300 microfarad 10v capacitor. You should be able to pick one up from mouser electronics, digikey, etc. I don’t recall the dimensions though. I’ll have to look and see if I have them. You could measure with some calipers though. 

    • Like 2
  14. Out of curiosity did you ever double check your cluster size on the hdd and make sure none of your partitions have an error? You can do this with xbpartitioner. I only mention it because the games starting up and then kicking to the dashboard sounds exactly like the issue I had years back (and many others I’ve seen since) when the cluster size was incorrect and the partition had an ER next to it. You may have already checked that and I missed it but thought I throw it out there anyway. 

    • Like 1
  15. 2 hours ago, Petrolhead said:

    PXL_20240709_044814624.jpg

    I can’t tell if it’s just in the picture or not but it does look like there might be a bridge where Bowl mentioned. Also looks like maybe that whole right half of pins could use some more flux and a tad bit more solder. The joints look a little dull. Like maybe a cold solder joint here and there. Again it could just be the lighting on the picture though. If you get continuity then I’d say it’s fine. I think you said you reflowed already. Thought I’d mention it just in case. :) 

    • Like 2
  16. 14 minutes ago, ttenor12 said:

    That is correct, the thing is that I am looking for free alternatives to FATXplorer since the license for mounting a device costs $20. I will get a license eventually because it's a great app, but I do not have the funds for it right now. The one I was referring to is Xplorer360 Beta, which you can see in action HERE for navigating a USB formatted as an OG Xbox memory. Not as intuitive as FATXplorer, but it works for USB formatted as memories. As soon as I get home, I will try this method with an HDD.

    FATXplorer allows you to use it for free for locking, unlocking and formatting HDDs, but for mounting partitions as a Windows drive, you need a paid license. It's worth it, in my opinion, since it's very easy to use and very intuitive, but unfortunately, I don't have the money for that right now, therefore, I am trying to find free alternatives in the meantime.

     

    edit: spelling

    Hmm ok. Maybe that’s new then. The fatxplorer 3.0 beta I have has never asked for that and I’ve been able to manage files on the og Xbox hdds with no issues. I’ve also used it to create usb drives and copy saves from the og Xbox. 
     

    As for xplorer360 it’s been a long while since I’ve used it so I can’t say much about what it will and won’t do. 

  17. 5 hours ago, ttenor12 said:

    Oh, I asked because it allows you to manage files for OG Xbox memories. This is how I have been transferring Xbox live profiles between Xemu and my OG Xbox. But I haven't tried with an HDD yet. Will give it a try

    Last I knew the fatxplorer 3.0 Beta allows you to mount and browse the og Xbox hdd contents by partition. Unless for some reason that’s changed you should still be able to do it with that version. 
     

    Edit: typo

  18. 1 minute ago, Gunky said:

    This is cool, but way beyond my knowledge and scope. Thanks for sharing! 

    @dtomcathas a great tool there. I own two of them. You can use the adapter on the lpc port and the picoprom will pull the eeprom (and a lot of other info) directly from the motherboard. Save to an sd card that you can then load on your computer and use to unlock the hdd. I’ve done this on four different systems with dead hdds so I could create new ones but can easily be used for when you don’t have the eeprom for the current hdd (or are having trouble with one as in your case). 

    • Thanks 1
  19. 4 hours ago, Gunky said:

    Seagate

    Got this adapter. It's of dubious quality, but it's the one "confirmed working" according to FATXplorers site. It's so cheap I wouldn't be surprised if they're using a different one that doesn't work anymore, the one picture in the reviews that shows an xbox with the adapter has a slightly different appearance than mine : \
    However, I watched a video that linked to a "working" adapter on eBay, and it looks like the exact one I got, so honestly I don't know. 

    I have that warmstor adapter. It’s probably the best lock/unlock ide adapter I’ve had since my old adapter broke. I’ve never run in to any problems with it in fatxplorer or Xboxhdm. Everything worked perfect and first try. That’s just my experience though. 

  20. 2 hours ago, TKZoo said:

    A little background. I bought the set-top box in a complete set. In perfect condition, almost no signs of use. Visually there are no signs of disassembly. As you can see in the screenshots, there is not even dust in it. The previous owner said that he had it since the moment of purchase, turned it on only once and put it in the closet.
    And so, when I try to turn on the console, the console does not show any signs of life. I opened the console, unfortunately it was not possible to carefully open the foil sticker (there is no heat gun). And as it turned out, the capacitors were leaking and most likely this is the cause of the problem. But I’m interested in something else... when I opened it, there was an inscription on the board, as far as I can understand, it’s Bool fix? or something like that. There are no signs of repair or anything else on the board. It clearly had not been opened before... What could this inscription mean?
    spacer.png

    spacer.png

    spacer.png

    spacer.png

    spacer.png

    Those most definitely need replacing. I can’t see the other two underneath the power wires but they may need it as well and if you’re going to replace the other three cpu caps you might as well do them all. 
     

    There are five total located here:

    C1E1, C1E2, C1F2, C1G10, C2E2

    These are 3300 microfarad 6.3v capacitors. They are 10mm radius by 25mm in height (you can go a few mm shorter than that on the height if need be). I think the lead spacing is around 5mm. Panasonic, rubycon, or nichicon are usually the preferred unless you go with polymer and then some brands are different. 
     

    Edit: I forgot to mention that the box is exceptionally clean inside. Wow. I find the opposite tends to be the case. Lol

    • Like 2

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