FrostyMaGee

February 8

5 minutes ago, extra-ordinary_ said:

Yeh, it's an over 20 years' old console so, do caps go bad with age or with use? Could they be bad but look fine?

Well as you said they’re over 20 years old. The life expectancy of the aluminum electrolytic capacitors ran out a while back. I’d for sure replace the 3300uf 6.3v caps near the cpu but honestly they could all use replacing just due to their age. Also yes they can be bad and still look ok. Usually you see some outward signs but not every time.

This probably doesn’t relate to your current issue but just wanted to answer your question about capacitors. I like to replace the caps near the cpu by default regardless of what they look like since they tend to be a common point of failure anyway. When I have time I’ll just do a full board recap all together.

February 8

1 hour ago, arfows said:

Thanks on so many fronts! Its a 1.4 board. As soon as I get it back together, (it needs the common CPU caps replace too) I'll test it out to see what effect the missing R7D2 resistor has. Should I report back to this thread or is there a better thread/repository for that kind of info?

follow on question is that I don't have 3300uf caps but I do have some 2200uf. Does it matter which of the five Cap spaces (C1E1, C2E5, C2E4, C2E3, C3E2) are used on a 1.4 board or does make a difference and any combination of the cap spaces can be used as long as the total uf is ~9900?

Thanks again for your time and expertise!

I don’t know 100% but I would think you could use the additional open spots for those caps like the older board revs did with 1500uf caps but instead have 2200uf as long as other conditions were met. Going up in microfarad usually isn’t a problem (up as compared to say the five original 1500uf on the older revisions). I can say for sure that you don’t want to go under voltage on those. Slightly over voltage rating is usually ok as well but they definitely need to be at least 6.3v plus the other specs that @KaosEngineer mentioned as they’re also important.

February 8

2 hours ago, Dtomcat18 said:

Down to 9. I am currently in the hospital (for my Wife) so I may be a bit more slow to respond... but I will! (on a plus side... Our family has grown by one). @roastedRingwormI haven't forgotten about you... and yours are set aside and not included in the 9. I should get with you by the end of week (so far been extended 2 more days in the hospital)

Congratulations on the new addition!

February 1

1 hour ago, monkeyjab said:

I want to say I did 256. Is there anyway to check after the fact?

You can use XBPartitioner to check the cluster sizes of your partitions.

January 29

2 minutes ago, Dtomcat18 said:

was just about to post a picture as well... I use a 1.0 to test the picoPromSD's pogo adapter LOL

I beat you to it! Lol. It would’ve taken me longer to find usually but I had just pulled the psu out of it yesterday so I knew exactly where it was.

January 29

I had a 1.0 laying around in a parts box. I took a pic of the area for comparison.

New Member Introductions · January 28

On 1/10/2024 at 10:16 PM, rainkero said:

Hi (Didn't know a better place to post this)

I'm new here, and.... I know basically nothing about modding, but I wanna softmod my system to start out, (1.6) and explore the option later of hard modding (probably on an older revision once I can find one) are there any resources you can recommend for me to get my head wrapped around how to start? I think I have everything I need to softmod now, but I'm still iffy on how all these launchers and stuff work. I'm sure this is ground that's been tread a million miles before me by other noobs, but there is just an overwhelming amount of knowledge out there and no particular place to start, I've watched a handful of videos on softmodding and understand basically how i'll do it, but there are so many variations of each tool/application etc that it's hard to know where to even begin. I'm sure this isn't much info to go off of but I'm pretty lost.

After I dip my toes in with the soft modding I'd like to ultimately hard mod a different console, just any recommendations on good resources for absolute beginners would be much appreciated, thank you kindly!

I just saw this but wondered if you found what you needed for softmodding or at least a place to start. If not let me know and I’ll see what I can do to help.

January 26

On 1/22/2024 at 12:38 PM, Marbles said:

Not what you asked for, but I went out and found a different copy of Stubbs to try out one last time on the 1.4 console, now that it has a new DVD drive installed...

Results remain the same....

Still waiting on the v1.6 to be returned after modding...
The winter chill is causing havoc on shipping up here in NE.

Well at least the 1.4 is being consistent. Lol. It’ll be interesting to see if Stubbs works fine on the modded 1.6 once you get it back.

January 26

1 hour ago, A3 Printer said:

i did not used the 80 pin cable. i did not no there was a difference is will check that out.

Just to clarify on the upgraded cable…this is always necessary when upgrading from the IDE drives. In a nutshell the 80 wire 40 pin cables are high speed and give you a ground between each of the 40 pins to reduce crosstalk thereby preventing signal level corruption at the higher transfer speeds. Not having this cable when you upgrade to a sata drive and adapter can also (and usually does) produce an error 7 on the original Xbox. Anyway, I just wanted to elaborate on why you needed this cable and when.

January 21

Just off the top of my head I’d suggest replacing C1E1, C2E4, and C3E2 (the three near the cpu just in case I didn’t recall all the location codes correctly lol) when you’re replacing the others. They are 3300 microfarad 6.3v and are 10mm diameter by 25mm length for that revision board. These can have a direct effect on your power as well (though in this case there are probably multiple things). They look ok from your pictures but at this point are really old anyway and should be replaced. Since you’ll be replacing some other radial caps already I thought I mention them.

January 21

I’m just seeing a lot of corrosion spots that are worrisome though. Hopefully it’s not too far gone.

January 21

5 hours ago, Raidernick said:

That's actually a ceramic capacitor and it looks like it exploded.

It really does look like that may have happened. Yikes! That might explain some of the rest right in that area. Along with a leaking clock cap of course. It’s definitely rough looking in that whole part of the mobo. I’d like to see what it looks like after he does a good cleaning to reassess.

January 20

Could you post a close up picture of the power rails at 6-8 on the underside of your motherboard (underneath where the clock cap was situated)? 7 is probably where the issue may lie but you should look at them carefully to see if there are any broken traces or other instances of trace rot there that need to be repaired. That’s a good place to start with visual inspection given the condition of the clock cap you described.

January 18

1 minute ago, Thairanny said:

Yea, I don't think the world can rely on @Dtomcat18 as the sole supplier and manufacturer of Xbox EEPROM readers forever, Haha!

True. Lol. I was just trying to clarify what Bowl was saying. Plus I like picoPromsd! That being said i do like to learn new and other ways to do things. That’s always a good thing. I’m too spoiled now with dtomcat18’s device though. Lol. I don’t want to go back to doing it the old way but it’s good to know I can and that people are still working to innovate and improve on processes.

January 18

3 hours ago, Gunky said:

I received a broken 2001 1.0 Xbox for free. I removed the clock capacitor, rerouted some trace rot. After that, it seemed to be working great besides terrible disc reading (even after a pot tweak). I ignored the often suggested thermal paste replacement thinking "don't fix what ain't broke" and bought a new laser, after all, I got the thing for free. It's working great as far as I can tell.

BUT the lingering thought of thermal paste wormed it's way into my brain, after all, most people seem to suggest it (sometimes to do it just cuz). The combination of so many people suggesting it, and some of the counter-arguments to it on this forum made me pretty anxious about the whole ordeal. Especially after investing money into this.

SO when does one know when, or if they should change the paste? I basically have the oldest OG Xbox possible, and it seems to work fine. I noticed the fan area in the back can get warmish when reading discs - but I've never had an xbox, and this could be normal. I haven't modded it, so I don't know its temps. Should I be worried? or bothered? Should I mod the console just to see the temps, just to be sure? Is the Xbox good enough at knowing when it has overheated to reliably leave it alone until theres a tangible issue?

TLDR; I'm overly paranoid about my newly acquired 1.0 xbox, and don't know how necessary it is, or when I should replace the thermal paste.

Thanks for any replies! It's much appreciated.

Honestly if you’re running for a few hours and still in the 45-55C range you’re probably fine. The 1.0 has the case fan and a fan on the gpu and tends to run cooler than the aforementioned.

Should you want to replace the thermal though just be sure to do a few things.

-as fox and thairanny mention be sure to heat up the cpu/gpu by either letting it run for ten or so mins or using a heat gun. The cpu heat sink will probably fall off on its own after the clip is removed. The gpu heat sink almost always sticks hence the needed heat. Do not try and pry them off or force them off. You can irreparably damage your system doing this. If there’s still resistance it needs to be heated up a bit more. You should easily be able to slightly twist them loose. I use a heat gun and it usually takes less than ten secs on a low temp before it comes loose.

-also mentioned was to take care when removing the clips. They’re old and can be brittle. The best way is to use your finger or thumb to press in on the smaller side of the clip and gently work the main (larger) side of the clip loose with your other hand. This is the nice way and tends to have less of a chance to break than using a flathead on the clip ends. Just keep in mind that sometimes they can still break due to age and material. Go slow and don’t force it.

-get a good quality thermal paste and be sure you’re applying the correct amount.

-as for cleaning off the old I personally like the ArtiClean 1 + 2 package but there are other ways. That’s just my preference.

January 18

48 minutes ago, Casefiles said:

I think PicoProm may need a few things to get running, look at the list below, and you still need to wire it to an EEPROM (no way around it!). It has way more features but I don't see how its simpler to setup if you just want the password for your HDD.

Disconnect the Raspberry Pi Pico from power/USB

Wire the Raspberry Pi Pico up to the EEPROM according to the pinout table below

Connect the Raspberry Pi Pico to the computer by USB

Launch a terminal app with XMODEM support, such as Tera Term, and connect it to the Raspberry Pi Pico

Verify that the Raspberry Pi Pico is reporting that it's ready to receive a ROM image

Use your terminal to send a ROM image using the XMODEM+CRC protocol

Disconnect power before removing the EEPROM from the circuit

I believe @Bowlsnapper is referring to @Dtomcat18 PicoProm which is far more simple to use for reading and writing the eeprom image. It uses the lpc port either via a pogo pin adapter or via a header soldered in to the lpc. The eeprom is stored on sd card when read and you can also write a bin file from the sd card to the eeprom. Very fast and plug and play. I think that’s what he was referring to but correct me if I’m wrong, Bowl.

January 18

4 minutes ago, kooyonga said:

Found an old xbox and a locked 1.5tb xbox drive stored away. The thing is I had a few xboxes back in the day and am not sure if the hard drive is from that xbox.

I want to try it in the xbox. Before I do so if the drive is locked with an eeprom different from the xbox will it do any permanent damage?

Just being cautious. Thanks in advance.

No. It won’t do anything permanent but it’ll give you an Error 6 when you try and boot if they don’t match. Other than that you should be fine though.

January 16

30 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:

Yes, that. It's why Cable Select doesn't work. @Marbles

Exactly. Plus you know what I said a while back…if you can set master or slave manually then do it rather than trusting a cable. (That goes for all electronics.) Just had to say it again. Lol. Not really applicable to modern day stuff but still.

January 16

12 hours ago, Marbles said:

Thank you!
I don't trust eBay as much as I've been screwed both selling and buying.
Bought a Xenium chip off eBay and apparently it was a fake....

Just feels awkward, while the Chimera fit so nice.
Blue end attaches to the console right?

On this topic... why is there no Holster/Tray for the DVD Drive?
On the V1.4 the drive was screwed into a tray, on the 1.6 there are two plastic holes built into the front.. and I see nothing in the back.

The blue end should be going in the hdd. Wasn’t sure if that’s what you meant or if you were referring to the motherboard. The cable basically goes in backwards to how you would put it in a pc.

January 15

1 hour ago, Marbles said:

They felt right side up when you plug the blue end in.. but it still felt... tight.
Always afraid of eBay.

Here are some as well:

https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Drive-Replacement-Drives-Stuck/dp/B079VQCYSM

These work just fine on all but the thompson drives. It says 360 but they work with the aforementioned og Xbox drives. As for the ide cable I’ve used the one you linked many times and never had any issues with them. If it’s the 24” Manhattan cable anyway. You have to do some cable origami with all of them but that one has worked for me a lot.

January 15

52 minutes ago, MadMartigan said:

Sometimes you can boil the belts for a few minutes to restore.some of their shape. After this long however, it's only a temporary fix for those things. They tend to get dry rot and stay oblong

Indeed. I’ve never had much luck with boiling them. I just replace them. Though for those bigger thompson belts (which I usually don’t have many spares on hand) I’ll at least give the boiling methods a shot. Lol.

January 14

1 hour ago, Marbles said:

Cleaned out, reseated cord... only wants to open half the time

Bezel?

Also the tray is built into it unlike the philips

Yeah you’ll still most likely need a new belt.

The bezel being the front facing piece on the dvd drive that says Xbox. Looked like it was missing in the picture.

January 14

3 minutes ago, Marbles said:

That’s pretty dirty just from what I can see without zooming in. Lol. Guessing the bezel was broken when they tried to force it open. Slightly before they threw it out on the side of the road. SMH.

January 14

2 hours ago, Marbles said:

Well as I said before, if was literally packed with thick brown dust when I opened it. It had a hairline.

So i could see the drive being the same.

Most likely yeah. Lol. Sadly I’ve run in to a few that bad as well and the drives were just as dirty. Not sure how it was possible for them to get that dirty. Lol

January 13

@Thairanny

Agreed on the hgst drives. I’ve seen a few dead or almost dead WD drives but it tends to be rare.

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