Akumakage

Ok Dave I check both 1.6 PSU I have. All the results are consistently low. The difference is always the same, so everything match even if they are low. I supposed we really have to blame the materials to check the results. I swear, the other psu I have work good. I ckeck him with the other console I talked about in that topic, which can boot and totally work in retail and is now fully de-modded ( because I want that like so ). I used the shield as a ground for the multimeter while I was keeping the motherboard with my hand and the red checker with the other one (the ground was keep with mobdylene, it work). I know the results are low, but they really are proportional, with different machines and working psu. I guess the problem is somewhere else. What do you think ?

Hi Dave Yup I saw that. "Orange voltage" is too high to fit with another blend. There is still good things to do, even helas not for mines ^^'. I have two 1.6 psu, I will check both and try the other one on our console repair file ! By the way, do you have clue about why now she can boot to give this scrambled screen ? Is the only D0 line that fried was this tiny trace near the xyclops ? Why the modchip seem to died that way either ?

Hi dave I really love that one because I just wonder if I can switch some psu to fit with other revisions . I will check that too.

Ok Here are the results. I supposed my analog multimeter is old (not like yours are old, I mean mine should be a little unprecise). To contrary, as high is the results I obtain, the higher the unprecision is high. There is even some proportionality between the results and what I should obtain. So I think we can consider 2.5v is equal to 3.3v and 4v is equal to 5v. Blame the stuff... I do not understand why "disconnected" pins gave signals, but maybe it is just about the LPC. I do not know, just an idea from me. I very check double time, each pins, because I was really surprise. So I supposed here are the results. I hope these results give some informations to you guys. I can do it a third time if you wish. As it seems, the only really disagreement come to the pin number 16. The console now boot, as the previous pic show a scrambled screen of the clock setting page (yes I can recognize that indeed ^^). I do not understand that too, because before the cut of LFram she didin't boot. In brief, desperately ^^' haha best regards nice sunday Draw_Comp_Keymap_Akume.pdf

OO' I will use the multimeter now....

Hi Dave I will do both test, as you advised. See you later

I got this one too if others aren't very visible.

Hi Dave This one was really touchy to do. Tell me if I can proceed to test now. I am very sorry for the wait of these recent days, but, you know, real life can be really invaded somehow by things of the virtual life. Like work or bills, you know. Best regards

Thank you very much Dave Any other advice ? Am I need to connect drives for example ? Or just the psu and the motherboard ? Best regards OGX super team

Hi lopenator Any advice for that? I am pleased to ask for whatever, I cannot know how much I missed things if I do not even know their existence.

I am very sorry. I do not have a multimeter. Thank you very much Dave Oh wait I got one. I do not even remember I got one.

I cutted the lfram, as you did on yours. As the D0 line is probably fried, like that we prevent any sort of bug. Should I solded the D0 of the Aladin to the lfram upper the cut (xyclops side) ? I also solded the bt point on the chip aladin. Maybe that thing is not good anymore. I supposed I will work on the other console too, to check any bad chip. As pretty as I did on what you saw. Thank you @Bowlsnapper Thank you @SS_Dave

That didn't boot, with or without a modchip. She frag while I was playing, a xenium ice fried on the same time, after the lpc rebuild I try it with an aladin. Just to check if it is ok. You told me the job is 7/10 ok (I printed that ). Never more than the christmas light since the initial frag.

No, nothing at all. Just that damn christmas light Which kind of issue that can be ? Do you think I should change the NV2A or the Celeron ? I was playing, everything could happened after all. The sad is that it will be difficult now to understand what happen exactly on that thing. By a strange fate, I obtain a died motherboard because of a dumb modding. It was a gift for spares parts from a friend. It was a 1.6 with a Samsung, I was really happy at that moment because parts of the samsung drive allow me to restore the second console I mentionned previously on that topic. I have a complete componant set for 1.6 since that day, with my hot air station.

Unfortunately, she didn't boot . I will try that one day.

Here is my answer to corrosion. I do not use that shield instead. Thank you @Bowlsnapper Thank you @SS_Dave I will try the boot today as you say it seem to be done ok

Here is the work of today. Use wires is more difficult for short range . Tell me what do you think @Bowlsnapper, please.

Don't worry bowlsnapper ! I already purchase another one. I just want to try and see if she now works after that. I decided finaly to use wires, as I bought too some solder mask to put on. corrosion is not allowed in my house, and use the pcb won't allowme to put solder on it after I solded it. I get that console last year, she was sell because hdd break, for spares or parts. The shields were very corroded, so much because it seem a liquid was drop on the console. Nevermind... I won't let that console die. I swear .

No Dave The second console works! This is just the modchip that probably died when the D0 line burried up. The file is about the first console, which now have a dead D0 line from the frag while I was playing and I try to make much more better soldering to make sure there will be no issue in the future. The lfram is now cutted by the way, as the line is probably fried indeed, but I supposed like it won't cause any sort of bug. I will double check the board and solder a lpc rebuilder today, then put another chip on it (an Aladin with a evox that I know she work, I do not use it because I cannot flash it with the console ) (for now it doesn't matter). Best regards

Do you have any advice or suggestion about the ripping of the solder mask ? Should I put something on these ? @lopenator @Bowlsnapper

There is the first step. I try the lpc rebuild but I got to tinned a little less that header. Especialy the right of it. Tell me what you think of that strange brown marks that appeared. First time I see that. Is that the greeny skin of the motherboard that left ?

All I know is that chip prevent stress on the D0 line because that xenium nemesis can managed the pulsation of it, the "OS" know when to pulse it normaly and when to pulse it on the ground. 1.6 revision are very bizarre on that point, because of Microsoft become more and more sticky with modding. I know too that TSOP is very unacessable on that revision. I am sorry bowlsnapper, I cannot help. But who knows ? Maybe one day with wires, usb port and special flash adapter with a similar method of the eeprom flashing or the flash diedmotherboard like for some bios flash on pc.

Check the Pic with the xenium lpc still on the motherboard, you should see the "D0" printed on it. Follow the trace, it lead to that point.

I used that tool indeed . I will show when it will be done. Thank you again bowlsnapper

Ah yes ok I am very sorry. I supposed things is all clear now because I stop to mix something i shouldn't. I will do that and I hope the D0 line is the only thing that fried. Thank you very much