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Prehistoricman

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Posts posted by Prehistoricman

  1. Every multimeter model will have a different threshold for continuity and a different current/voltage to probe the resistance. Getting the beep doesn't mean it's a short circuit.

    Use resistance mode and see if the value is near SS_Dave's result.

  2. I believe you two are talking about different things. Hastings is talking about the LCD contrast (or backlight?) and the control pot on the X3 chip. Bowlsnapper is talking about the X3 switches and status LEDs which are unaffected by the potentiometer.

    I also have a stability issue with the X3 controls, but it's with the small black one that you stick to the front of a normal panel, not the whole custom front panel. I believe it's the wires breaking after too many stresses and bends. Mine has flickery or dim LEDs very often but rarely boots from the wrong bank.

    • Like 1
  3. 34 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:

    Testing bioses seems like exactly the kind of thing you would NOT want to pull the chip out of the box for. YIKES. You are a glutton for torture. :) 

    I once did a bad flash to the TSOP. So I desoldered it, wrote an arduino programmer and soldered it back in. Then I fucked up the flash again to see what went wrong the first time :)

    • Haha 2
  4. 24 minutes ago, Bowlsnapper said:

    Please forgive my stupidity, but could you clarify that a bit? I'm not as knowledgeable as I would like to be. If RAM speed becomes an issue when slowing down? I actually wasn't aware that you could control memory and CPU speeds independently from one another. Is this an option in XBOverclock? By divider, do you mean multiplier? JESUS I'm retarded.

    dust08 has it right: if RAM speed becomes an issue when increasing the FSB too much, you can reduce the memory clock independently.

    XBOverclock can be modified to do this. Go to its main.c file and after line 93 put bios_data[i+6] = 0x33; to reduce the memory clock by 33%.

  5. 3 hours ago, tekflio said:

    I just want to know if it the connector on the motherboard still works. Because if it does, I will substitute the cable and (if the main problem still occurs) the dvd drive.
    Is this a correct line of thought ?

    With either the diode or resistance test you can test the cable from end to end + the connectors by plugging in both ends and measuring between the solder points for the connectors.

  6. Yeah you can make your own. It's just a PCB with switches and LEDs. Hardest parts are the cable and the vanity cover. If you find out what connectors and crimps are used, let me know because mine has some dodgy wires.

    This is a wiring diagram I found online. The LEDs may require series resistors, not sure.

    image.thumb.jpeg.41d57a61e34f1909f70f84cfd05c2742.jpeg

    • Like 1
  7. On 7/30/2022 at 11:51 PM, zzattack said:

    On the acquisition front, the last batch of 4 xboxes purchased were advertised as good working condition, but in reality came with a bunch of non-disclosed issues: 3x non-functioning dvd drives (1x tray doesn't open, 2x won't read discs), 2x clock cap damage, 1x missing HDD (seriously!?). I'm not even gonna bother contacting the sellers since a) I barely know for sure which console came from which seller, b) it's all fairly easy to fix, and c) they've all come across so illiterate and hostile in their communication I halfway expect them to reply with threats if I'd merely suggest they sold me less than was advertised. Powering through.

    There is some reverse psychology in play. I got an 'untested' Xbox which the seller described as having DVD drive issues. Come delivery day, it powers up fine, the DVD drive is fully working and plays the free splinter cell disc that was inside! I suppose the postal service applied some percussive maintenance.

    Or it's just random/luck. You can increase your odds by choosing listings with good pictures and some description.

    • Like 3

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