MadMartigan
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Posts posted by MadMartigan
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Putting a price on it, will increase your chances of selling. This isn’t much of an auction house.
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3 hours ago, bacus said:
Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll just do the one reply to all.
I found my old copy of X2 Bios Manager v2.3 and read the readme. I understand how you create the 1MB file with the various BIOS' in whatever order, its the flashing that confused me. I think you're saying it doesn't matter what bank the chip is set to during the flash, as it just fills the whole 1MB from zero. So then the bank switch is only used when actually booting from either of the 512KB banks. Correct?
That is correct and from my experiences, the same applies to chips with more than two banks.
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You can create your bios.bin to flash each bank with a specific bios. You can be on either bank to flash(while chip protection is off) and the bios.bin file will dictate which bank gets which type of bios. I hope that makes sense.
For instance, you can flash bank 1 with Flashbios, and bank two with Cerbios, or vice versa.
X2 Bios Manager has a great tutorial that comes in the file with the download. -
I believe you might be capped out, at right over 2TB for the bios you’re using. So you’re not able to take advantage of the 3TB HDD. Up until the last year or so that was the xbox’s maximum capacity.
Now, You could change your bios to Titan or Cerbios and run up to around 16TB I think. If you do swap to either one of those, then you can just put everything on F: and save the hassle of opening different partitions when you go to add new games.
Edit: I could have something wrong there, so someone more knowledgeable can update.
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Concept looks excellent. I'm very interested to see the progress on this one.
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3 hours ago, Megoosa said:
I resoldered the whole connector the first time, only adding some fresh solder. After that it got better, but the problem was still there. The second time I resoldered it with flux added (some "no clean" flux for electronics repair) and now the problem seem to be gone
I tapped the console when it's running and no more distortions on the screen 
It looks like this is a problem-free Xbox now
Why Xbox consoles have these problems like the broken power button traces, leaking capacitor and bad joints on the connector? Wasn't it a quality product?
Easy answer is these were the first run for MS in the console industry. They made mistake, but they also made changes and improvements sometimes. This has aged over 20 years now and electronics just need some maintenance from time to time. Clock caps did not leak until many years into the lifespan of the console. It will always be a quality product as long as we can tinker with it.
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9 hours ago, captain.cutlery said:
I used the non pbl version (not sure if this is correct, but it looks like the xbox didn't recognize the disk, I know the Xbox can read disks btw as It came with a few and it plays them fine, is there a specific way you have to burn the image/ specific type of dvd or have I used the wrong image? side note is there a way to update the bios without a burnt dvd?
Sorry for all the questions. I Appreciate your time.
You should create the .iso file using Qwix. Then use imgburn to burn the .iso to a disc. Should boot just fine
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Sounds like your FTP didn’t transfer properly if the disc works but files don’t.
You mentioned .iso also. I’ve been gone a while and am not aware of X2 bios being capable of supporting .iso files. Maybe this is your issue?
What program and how did you FTP the files? Were you in BINARY mode? Did you transfer multiple files at once?
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On 11/8/2022 at 1:20 AM, Bowlsnapper said:
Seconded... although I'm assuming that stock processor speeds and tragically low RAM necessitate some serious compression to avoid memory crashes and frame drops. Compression which will result in a loss of dynamic range,which will, in turn, manifest itself in things like washed out darks... or artifacting that is more noticeable in dark areas.
With Stellar’s upgraded RAM, this may be something to look into now. Possibly supports higher bit rates?
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Have you checked the pins of your cables or the input on the Xbox for damage or bends?
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As long as it’s booting into the dash, don’t flip any of the bank switches. Yes they support SATA drives with a proper IDE to SATA adapter. You’ll also want to upgrade your 40 wire IDE cable to an 80 wire cable when you do the upgrade. You can proceed to build the new HDD by simply connecting it as intended and then inserting an installer disc such as Hexen or OGXBOXInstaller, into the Xbox. You’ll build the new drive directly from the Xbox. Once you’ve upgraded the HDD then we can help add games.
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Complete guide. I think you’ll want to start with video #3
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Check this out and see if it helps any.
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This was the fix
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There’s no need to revive so many old threads like this.
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Upon further research(eBay), it looks like this device is only for PS2 controllers.
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The multimeter will let you know if there is continuity in the traces, wether it’s warm or not. You’ll want to locate these traces on the bottom along the edges and one corner. If even one of those lines does not show continuity, then there is your issue.
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Previous Message deleted.
If you’ve successfully unlocked the drive and have access from FatXplorer, it’s now just a matter of adding the files back to the drive in order to get a proper boot. Is the drive currently wiped?
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If it’s powering itself on when you plug it in, then you’ve probably got corrosion issues. Even if it looks fine, there is something hiding somewhere that isn’t allowing proper connectivity. Have you tested the board for continuity with a multimeter?
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Yes that’s the adapter that is widely recognized as the best for your money. It will work with 2.5” drives, but keep in mind you’re going to need to secure that smaller drive with tape, Velcro, 3D printed bracket, etc. The stock Xbox is only designed for the 3.5” drives.
As for the IDE cable, I’d advise taking your time to find a reputable seller with the correct measurements or at least something close, but not shorter than the current Xbox cable. Kekule sells very nice cables on Chimericsystems.com, but I don’t believe he’s shipping outside of the US.
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You’re looking for one of these. It also works with GameCube and there’s a switch that changes from steering wheel to game pad also.
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Those cheap adapters need to be reflowed before even using. Sometimes that will fix their issues, but other times, they seem to just be duds. I came to suggest it was the adapter, as I’ve run into this many time before. Looks like you already figured it out though.
Edit: The red flag is going from smooth boot, to waiting around 30 secs after the flubber. Dead giveaway that the adapter is the issue.
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9 hours ago, prtscn said:
You have 80pin data cable? Link for this adapter?
Still 40pin, but 80 wire just to clear up any confusion. 80 pin would be disappointing upon arrival.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
Sanity Check
in Hardware Mods
Posted
Between work and home reno I can totally relate to "brain no worky". We knew what you meant lol