MadMartigan
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Posts posted by MadMartigan
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You could try and format the drives and go from there I suppose.
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I’d like to piggy back this thread a tad. I have several of the cheap Aladdin XT Plus chips from AliExpress. Seems the reviews on there say that they can’t be flashed. Is this a fact or would the 2 second power option work for those as well? I have not tried in fear of screwing something up. I’m very good at that.
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Yeah that’s one small thing a lot of people don’t think of when swapping cases. That pesky extra screw before 1.6 released.
Great that you got it fixed.
Post a pic of the transistor you replaced. It could possibly help others out in the future.
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Here’s a pic of mine. Hope it helps.
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I’ve seen great reviews on the simplicity of the conductive ink pen method but mixed opinions on the results of using it. Did you remove the ink after you performed the flash or did you leave it on the board? That was definitely one of the issues people presented on this method. Personally I have never used it so I have no say in the matter.
Did you add or remove any files before this error occurred?
Did you change any settings such as dashboard?Have you removed the clock cap already and checked for any leakage causing trace damage?
You could always screenshot both drives from within the file explorer and compare the files to see what’s missing.
I don’t think Installing a mod chip on top of the TSOP will do any good. I think you’d have to remove the TSOP first or the chip won’t boot. That has been my experience.
Pretty sure one of the wizards around here would know what has caused this issue
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As you can see in the second picture, I somehow missed connecting the D0 pads on the rebuild board. My old eyes just missed it.
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PROBLEM SOLVED
Can delete thread
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This guy did it.
And a clean room https://northridgefix.com/product/portable-dust-free-clean-room-with-green-and-white-light/-
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Hey all. It’s time I start to get rid of some of my pickups over the past year or so. I have around 25 or so, fully working consoles that have all been cleaned and modded. Clock caps removed on all boards under 1.6. I have all different sizes of HDDs in both SATA and IDE from 80GB up to 2TB. SATA options will include the needed adapters and 80 wire cables from Kekule.
Everything under 1.6 is TSOP or has a mod chip. Most chips are xecuter 2.3 & 2.6. Prices of course will vary depending on HDD size and type and wether they have a chip or not. Most of them are empty mods waiting for games and emulators of your choice. I can also add those if needed.
Again everything is tested and working and will be a clean, fresh mod, without old game saves and such. Couple of these are Crystal edition. For those that just want soft mods, that can be arranged too if you’re not capable or don’t have the necessary tools to do so.
I also have 3-4 PAL PSU in different models for those that acquire imports and need replacementsLEDs are also optional for controller ports. I also have some pretty cool spare parts that don’t pop up very often.
I’d much rather let them go here than dump them on FeeBay. Located in Virginia, USA. Feel free to send a DM or post here directly. Everything needs to go, but I’m not doing lowball deals.
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Just installed an Aladdin in a perfectly working 1.6 because I was bored. Install went smoothly and connections are great throughout. However, I’m getting the three boot cycle and then black screen with no audio or video. Any help would be appreciated. I have all day to fiddle with it to try and fix things. I did not cut the L trace and instead have connected to the right leg of the accessible transistor on top to prevent the led from always being on when power is connected. I can’t post a pic because they all end up being over 2mb.
Edit: everything stills works as normal with the chip removed from the header so nothing is screwed up internally. I’m thinking maybe a bad chip?
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I have 3 or 4 PAL psu that I have no need for if anyone else is interested. I swap them out for NTSC psu when I get imports.
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17 hours ago, bolofski said:
yeah not a theme im afraid, looks like either premium or ninja, which you can customise, just a little bit trickier
Definitely https://www.arcadepunks.com/coinops-new-release-premium-ninja-massive/
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They seem to be back in stock here now. https://8bitmods.com/xboxhdplus/
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Any drive other than the Phillips drives with their wonky cases, should provide plenty of clearance for whatever you're trying to install on the MoBo.
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This is going to look pretty cool. Hope you measured for clearance
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I’ve personally never seen any clear dvd or HDD stands. Do you have a Phillips drive with the unnecessary buldge at the bottom?
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The installs should be pretty much the same between the two chips. In your case of using a 1.6, you will need to rebuild the
LPC first before you're able to install anything. This is much easier using an actual LPC rebuild board instead of all the loose wires going everywhere.
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A semi decent soldering iron, a set of jewelers goggles or a magnifier with a bright bulb, definitely flux(clear liquid no clean). Other flux will do just fine, but will obstruct the clarity of the work.
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I keep Goodwill going, buying these things from them. As I mentioned before, this is probably the cleanest board I have ever picked up. Judging from the condition, lack of dust, and it having two extremely outdated bios files on it, my guess is the owner modded it back in the day and never played it much. Had it sitting around in a closet or something, then clean out day finally came around and I scored.
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34 minutes ago, vekter303 said:
Thanks for that. I couldn't see any available there initially. Shipping is pretty high and there may be EU import charges now too! I have messaged the seller anyhow...cheers!
How much was shipping? It’s about $60 total price if I were to buy one from the US.
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Personally, I don’t think it’s worth all the trouble. Once I was finally able to boot, I formatted everything and used OGXBox installer to flash a different bios and it worked just fine. Not sure if Flashbios just didn’t like my switch or not, but I think I still have a groove in my finger from holding the switch so hard to the right lol. Can’t believe that’s all it was the whole time. Should’ve known.
On a side note, after I was able to relax and not pull my hair out, I realized the entire board and seemingly the psu also has been recapped. Someone spent some time on this thing and kept it amazingly clean. Thanks again Goodwill
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Here’s a seller in the Netherlands if that helps any
Give eBay a quick search
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Finally got this POS to flash. It was nothing I was doing wrong the entire time. It was the damn switch. Once I figured out the little trick, it took maybe 5-6 times and a very sore fingertip. Nevertheless, it has accepted M8plus and now I just need to get a dash back on there and all that good stuff. Sorry for the headache and thanks tremendously for the support. I bet you guys were thinking I'm an idiot and not performing the instructed tasks.
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Nope, everything is intact. No crimps or anything. Like I said I'll have much more time today and this weekend to try and troubleshoot. I've seen in several places that removing the dip switch put the chip into a proper flash state, but I have not tried that after powering on. Doing so before powering on disables the chip entirely.
Is it not possible that it is trying to erase and being that it can't program successfully, the erase just gets reset? I guess I'm asking do we know for sure the erase isn't working.
Edit: I'm booting from bank 2 which houses flashbios and then attempting to flash bank 1. So if the erase did indeed work I'd still be booting into flashbios through bank 1. Right?
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
SATA to IDE adapter
in Repair
Posted
Yea it is not acid. I always reflow those boards when I get them as they often have suspect solder joints. It won’t increase load times of them, but will at least bring some to life.