ea2000

For all you Delta PSU fans, I managed to repair the original psu. No change in the FRAG as I expected. I'll try to boot the memory test from a CD-RW next.

Sigh, you may be right. I'm assuming there's no way to test these RAM modules, right? If I added more RAM to the board could that allow the console to boot or does the first 64MB need to be good? Can it boot with at least 64MB working from any of the 8 banks? I've seen when they do 128MB upgrades and run XBlast to test the ram, sometimes some of the banks fail, but the console boots just fine.

I dumped the EEPROM and everything looks good:

I only did the CPU. I didn't think this could cause a FRAG, but I'll do the GPU just in case...

I've read elsewhere about the FOXLINK PSUs being crap, but I don't see where this is coming from. The unit looks extremely well built and the components appear to be good quality.

Yes, no change.

The PSU came off another 1.0 console that is working just fine, so I'm pretty confident it's not the PSU.

I managed to solve the 12v issue. It was a via near C8C5. I made sure to use a thick wire just in case. Fans are spinning now, but the console still FRAGs. I tried installing the modchip incase the stock BIOS is bad, but no change. I tested the modchip on a good console and it boots up just fine. I also tried with the drives connected, still FRAGs. As I mentioned before, the five 1500uf caps were replaced with new ones. The other caps look good and don't usually go bad, but what do you guys recommend?

No, and I think it's the other way around. A 1.6 in a non 1.6 case will short on the center screw terminal.

I pulled a good original PSU from a working console. Also, I had swapped cases to rule out a power button issue, but now the motherboard and PSU are in the original case. This console had an Aladdin modchip installed, which I've removed while troubleshooting. The D0 is not currently grounded. The console now FRAGs consistantly, but still no 12v on the motherboard. Here is a new video showing some voltages:

I'm pretty sure it's one of these. It even came with a 1.6 adapter which I no longer have: https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fpreview.redd.it%2Fe8mz66vvox631.png%3Fwidth%3D640%26format%3Dpng%26auto%3Dwebp%26s%3Dba7570dcd9c3bbe06fed4f2fa66239582b6c0cd3

Yeah, good idea. I'll take a look at it. Never trust a PSU with a lot of connectors.

The voltages measure as expected. If you watch closely in the video you'll see it flash green, stop flashing, then flash again before I press the button. Each one of these flashes appears to be a boot attempt. Some times it does three sets of green flashes and then FRAGs, but the fans never turn on. When it does FRAG it stays "on" until I press the button again to shut it off. If I measure voltages while its FRAGing there is 12v at the plug on the motherboard, but it doesn't seem to get very far since the fans don't spin and there is no drive activity if I connect them. The 5v does seem to get around the board as well as the 3.3v. The CPU heats up also.

The original PSU from this Xbox was dead. I'm using a known good PSU which is one I ordered a long time ago from China. It has dual adapters and is multi-voltage (110-220). It does not work on a 1.6, however.

Here is a short video showing the issue.

I checked C1-C4, all are good. C4 & C5 from the bottom two photos (next to R6V2) are not on the 1.0 motherboard.

This is a 1.0 Xbox that was found with a dead 110v PSU, most likely plugged into 220v. I swapped the PSU with a good one. When I press the power button I get rapid flashing green light, no fans, no boot, no FRAG. It had a leaky clock cap with some messed up resistors near the cap which were replaced from a doner board after cleaning the area, no change. Traces look ok. I swapped the 5 1500uf caps with new ones, no change. Power at the first N FET input is 5v when the power on button is pressed and around 1.8v on the output. I swapped the fet from a doner board, no change. Voltage on the two resistors near the yellow power button cable show 3.5v and drop to around 2.5v when pressing the power button. Not sure where to go from here...

Well, I left the console in a corner to think about why it was misbehaving. Later on I tried it and it booted just fine. Nothing changed and I did not even open it. I swear these things are messing with me... Oh well, I have another one with a REAL problem this time, but I'll open a new post.

Yes.

I'm using the Startech ide to sata adapter, the good one, with an 80 pin 24 inch cable and a 1TB sata drive (locked), formatted with fatxplorer for Cerbios with C, E & F partitions. Cerbios is set to udma 5 and was booting fine before. The Christmas lights is just another name for the 3 restarts with flashing red/green. The same happens after a complete power off. Holding the power button on startup also frags.

Hi. I was just finishing a successful repair to a 1.0 with a bad psu. Replaced psu, replaced clock cap, flashed Aladdin with Cerbios, updated hdd. Everything was working fine, dashboards, games, etc. Closed up the case and as a final thought decided to increase fan speed using Xblast OS. Loaded Xblast, set fan speed, hit reboot and... Frag with Christmas lights! Any ideas?

Which caps? I've already changed all the large caps on the mobo. That said they could still be bad knowing my luck...

I think I may have found the issue. It appears to be the PSU. When I plug the PSU in to mains (220V) and read the Standby voltage on the motherboard (orange wires) it fluctuates up and down between 4.19v - 4.67v, too low for the console to wake up. If I press the power button the Standby voltage drops to 3.82v for an instant than goes back to fluctuating. If I unplug the PSU from the motherboard the Standby voltage measures 5.2v. I suspected a component on the PSU needs a little more time to "warm up" so I unplugged the PSU from the motherboard (and HDD) but left it plugged into mains for a few hours. Then I measured the Standby voltage while still on mains but not plugged into the console and it had dopped to 4.7v. I plugged the PSU back into the motherboard and the Standby voltage was now locked at 5.00v, no more fluctuations. Sure enough the console booted and is running normally. What component on the PSU could be causing this behaviour?

So today I tried to power on the console. I did not open or make any changes to it. It tried to boot for 1/2 a second with the X3 enabled (blue light). Fans started but no video and it shut down. It did not FRAG. I tried again, fast power button press (blue X3 light) same 1/2 second and off. I tried again but this time long press to disable the X3 (red light) and it booted into the stock dash. I waited a few minutes and shut it off normally. Pressed the power button and... NOTHING. Completely dead again.

This Xbox had one issue of being placed in a different case and shorting. I replaced the faulty 2T transistor and all was working. Voltages were normal on all rails. I then was getting glitchy video on composite cable so I changed the large caps on the board and the video issue went away. It powered on and work fine all day. Even would power cycle multiple times without issue and run stable with any game I threw at it or just stay running for hours. The next day it would not power on at all. I changed the two large output caps on the PSU and reseated the modchip and it booted and ran perfectly so I played Doom3 for a few hours without issue. Shutdown normally. Next day it would not power on again.