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Posts posted by trencherfield
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Xbox won't do 480p over scart/RGB.
480i on RGB with maybe 576i on PAL.VGA is something else entirely.
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1 hour ago, Hasake said:
Yes the chip is able to boot, if I hold the power button for 2 seconds it boots from the chip, if I push it shortly it boots “normal” but it getting error 05.
Sounds like you are trying to boot an unlocked hard drive on the stock BIOS. The chip will boot it fine, but you can't boot stock BIOS with an unlocked hard drive, you need to lock it to the console for MS bios to boot it without error.
Use Configmagic App or other app to lock it if you want to boot stock BIOS.
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Yeah for FPGA we would maybe be looking at the FPGA chip doing the MCPX and GPU since the GPU is only 233MHz.
The CPU however is too much, so we would need an intel CPU patching in, preferably of a higher speed of course and with good availability.
RAM would be separate also.
We are lucky since the Xbox was PC based designed, so it makes it somewhat easier than something like the PS2, which would be a nightmare and just not possible currently.
I have the ZX Spectrum Next FPGA (3 clones inc N-GO) and because that's a really old low power computer you can have other cores too. You can also add 'accelerators' too to boards like these. Lots of options.-
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All gone. Will prolly make a few more shortly.
If anyone finds the thread looking for a kit, then just feel free to PM me, saves me listing and updating here. :) -
1 hour ago, Bowlsnapper said:
Theoretically... I wonder what the cost would be of starting a production line with old machinery And licensed tech documentation and building brand new mobos with possibly upgraded processors... Like the SL6BY. These things are gonna start dying and I predict that it will be an existential issue for all of us pretty soon.
At the risk of posting like I think it's still 2022.
Whilst it would be great to have a new board, it's not really feasible.
MCPX chip. Would have to be re-flowed to the new board.
Graphics chip. As above. Could possibly adapt the Dev kit card one (rare) or something. Lot of added work and then compatibility issues.
Even P3 chips are crazy prices these days. Parts are just a no-go in reality.
Probably why he stopped on the board.
Best bet would be an FPGA solution, which is the preferred hardware solution over an emulator, which as we know, generally suck to put it bluntly.
Now that would be a great board. FPGA, 256MB ram etc etc with an updatable core. OG Xbox V2-
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I used to just cut the old molex connector off the Xbox power supply cable and solder the wires directly to the Startech adapter and heatshrink them for a neat finish. Less clutter.
But since I have the crimping gear now for making X3's endless cables, I just fit the smaller molex connector for a totally factory look. They are dead cheap, but prolly only worth doing if you do a fair few consoles as you need a crimper tool.
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15 minutes ago, martin66789 said:
SST flash.
Whilst that's an easy 15 minute job for me to lift and flash, I wouldn't recommend it unless you are proficient at SMD work and have the correct tools.
But, as originally advised, your option remains to just sell the two drives and get something else. Path of least resistance for you. -
'Grabbed by the Ghoulies' was a laugh.
Made by Rare of course.-
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Also as I said before, there are two OE firmwares for the 8163b from Hitachi/LG.
See here ...
https://jestineyong.com/obtaining-eeprom-bios-firmware-for-deadflashed-lg-gdr8163b-dvd-rom-drive/ -
Just now, martin66789 said:
Should I rename 8163b.dld to 8050L.dld?
Try either. Depends which flasher you are using and from where.
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3 minutes ago, martin66789 said:
I think the motherboard should be good. I was able to write the 8050L.dld file to the drive under DOS, but I couldn't write the 8164B.dld file, even in recovery mode. It writes a timeout error as shown in the image.
It's not enough to simply rename the 8163B_0M26.bin file to DLD, you need the file extension from the PrepStub.bin file. Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with this kind of programming.
You have the wrong file name.
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Here is the Xbox HQ one from the first page (last pictured) on my drive...
Download
Xbox HQ Special Edition v2.0
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2200uf is 10v (your red)
3300uf is 10v (your green)
470uf is 25v (your blue)
-----------------The ones fitted are correct except the 2200uf & 3300uf are higher voltage rated, which is fine anyway. They will be slightly larger physically.
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Yes that is a UK 230/240VAC power supply for the V1.6.
Yes it will power a USA or JAP motherboard within the UK as well as UK motherboards, if functional.
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1 hour ago, martin66789 said:
https://github.com/Hendi48/gdr-tools
I found a DOS flasher here that allows you to disable ID checking. When I set the parameters correctly, it says a timeout error during flashing, what could be the cause?
I assume you read the following notice about the DOS flasher, which is the original sf8163.exe flasher, which also applies to the Xbox flasher of course.
Quote16-bit DOS application for flashing Hitachi drives. Requires a chipset IDE controller that supports legacy mode, which cannot be found in boards from 2008 and later (an "onboard" IDE controller like a Marvell chip that some boards from 2008 have will not work).
This refers to your PC motherboard.
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You should be able to flash the 8163b.bin back to the drives with the correct commands as follows;
Usage: SF8163 [drive:][directory]filename [drive_No] [/f] [/c] [/p] [/o] [/i] [/l] [/s] [/m] [/r] filename name of the download file. [drive_No] drive location number you want to update firmware. drive location number is follows; 0:primary master 1:primary slave 2:secondary master 3:secondary slave If DRIVE_NO is omitted, the drive is detected automatically. [/f] diable revision check [/c] diable vendor ID check [/p] diable product ID check [/o] diable OEM code check [/i] interactive mode [/l] create log file [/s] for SLOT type drive [/m] No messages (silent mode) [/r] recover ucom from critical condition.(recovery mode) For example, to flash an 8163B connected as the secondary slave with the 8050L firmware from 8050L.dld: SF8163 8050L.dld 3 /f /c /p /o one or more of the "disable xxx" switches may not be needed, depending on the firmware already installed on the drive. If you get a message saying there is no CD/DVD drive, try the /r switch, but make sure you have specified the correct drive first and maybe use the /i switch so you get one last chance to confirm it.
The bin file is not the same file within the other flasher utilities. You will need to rename it to .dld as well. It's in the folder, but see further below.
You will need to flag the /f /c /p /o and best to include the drive location command.
I can also tell you that there are two variants of the NAND chip on the 8163b and that the firmwares are NOT compatible with each other as the NAND's have different layer address's.
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5 hours ago, martin66789 said:
I tried flashing with the specified file, but that didn't work either. "This program can't be used for the selected device" gives a message.
You could try some of the RPC1 firmwares at Dangerous Brothers here >
https://tdb.rpc1.organd hope one of those may not perform a 'drive ID' before flashing. Doubtful.
Failing that, if you still want to persist, then read this...
https://forum.makemkv.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23023
Other than that, you would have to desolder the firmware chip and reprogram it externally and then refit it.
This is the last help I can give you on this subject as it does not really pertain to Xbox use at the end of the day and you'd find it easier just to sell them as is.
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11 hours ago, big F said:
It would be interesting to find out if this ever made it to any form of production or beta testing.
It's far away from complete unfortunately it's just a start, maybe 20% or less looking at it. It's not currently being worked on either as far as I know.
https://github.com/maximus64/xbox_mainboard
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4 hours ago, martin66789 said:
I tried flashing with the specified file, but that didn't work either. "This program can't be used for the selected device" gives a message.
This will be because it has been flashed to 8050 Xbox firmware, so the ID of the drive will now be wrong for the factory original flasher no doubt.
This is not something as Xbox users that really concerns us on this forum to be fair. I can't edit the hex of the flasher to accommodate this either, or rather spend my time to resolve on your behalf.
As already suggested by myself and seconded by Harcroft, you are better off selling the drives to Xbox users at this point and picking up another drive/s off ebay etc.-
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20 hours ago, Meerjel01 said:
I'm "somewhat" interested in this since one of my Xboxes stopped working. But I must first know how the assembling works like if I should do something like this. (Especially on how it gets power)
Original power supply fits inside to the right as pictured, though you could swap that out for one of the new USB-C open source power boards instead and use a USB-C charger.
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1 minute ago, Tartarus said:
what I'm trying to kindly say is he's wasting his time..
Re-read it.
He wants to use the drives on his old PC, not for Xbox. Someone else flashed them for Xbox use. He wants to return them to factory state. Presumably for retro/DOS based games on disc etc. (Yeah it's a thing) -
1 hour ago, Tartarus said:
Oh man, depending on what you're doing, it's almost worth just using an Xbox. But again, I don’t know your exact setup not that it’s any of my business.. it just seems like it would be easier to go the Xbox route.
Using a PC optical drive at this point is almost not even worth it. I gave up on optical drives a long time ago. I picked up a couple of Xboxes in decent shape for pretty cheap — out of state of course, because in my area, people are
crazy...
I ended up building a Windows 7 machine, loaded it with all the tools I needed, and backed up all my games on it. If you know what you’re doing, you can pretty much do anything with that setup. I built the Windows 7 rig dirt cheap and turned it into a full-on Xbox utility station. Honestly, it was fun.. get the console set up the way that I wanted with all the games I wanted I actually play (which is fewer than 10).
I'm sure I’ll catch some grief for this, but I used a solid-state drive ... not for speed, but for longevity. I wanted it to last.
Why Windows 7? Because why not.
That old Dell I picked up for optical drive work turned into an EEPROM extraction beast. Once I pulled the EEPROM, I was like, screw it. let’s hardmod. And that leads me to one of the other legends on this site: SS_Dave — who was completely right.
His iconic closing line — and I quote:
"Soft modding is like masturbating. It gets the job done, but it's nothing like the real thing."
So yeah, if you’re just looking to play some games grab an Xbox, mod it, back up your collection, and just enjoy yourself.
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And the specific point of all that waffle in relation to martin66789's posts was?-
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Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
i cannot get rid of the interference in the video on this 1.1v and i have tried everything!
in Repair
Posted
You could try the signal conditioner I suppose. Never used one myself.
https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1711411471
(not my stuff by the way)