QuazyPat
-
Posts
32 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by QuazyPat
-
-
Yep, that's been removed.
-
Yep, have one of those! I looked over it some more and took some more pictures. They're added to the album https://imgur.com/a/xbox-1-4-3-boot-frag-partial-recap-WEKo0vb
I also looked back at some of my old posts to jog my memory. I don't think I ever actually TSOPed this board. I tried to, but was completely new to soldering at the time and only had a cheap, plug-in style iron. I accidentally ripped a pad off R7D1. The pads on R7D10 already looked damaged at the time, possibly from the previous owner (I bought this used in like 2012/2013). Some alternate points were suggested by the one and only SS_Dave, but I never actually did it. Eventually, I did just buy a better iron and a modchip and went that route. So yeah, the onboard BIOS should still be MS stock (https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/2494-bad-at-soldering-is-this-mb-ruined/#comment-16381)
I thought, why not try the TSOP now with some of the alternate points, maybe I'll get lucky? I used this https://www.xbmc4xbox.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1822. Unfortunately, no effect. I did notice that the pad and a bit of the trace on the bottom of the board near C7R4 are ripped up. Not sure where that damage is from either as I didn't attempt the alternate TSOP previously. Maybe it's from when I bought the system or maybe I nicked it with my iron just recently, who knows.
I went back to the caps that started this issue and reflowed the solder again and I realized that nearly all of them have botched pads on their vias. At this point, that seems like the most likely culprit as the system stopped booting immediately after replacing those caps, but before touching anything near the LPC. My iron temp was probably just too high and it ate up too many pads so now one or more connections are not being made. Maybe there's even damage on an internal board layer.
But maybe there are some points I can probe to validate some voltages to narrow down the issue? Does just kind of seem like I borked it.
-
Thank you for your help so far! I'll just remove the modchip from the equation entirely for now and try to get it booted from the onboard BIOS. Pretty sure it was EvoX. I'll also take a closer look at the board for anything that looks suspect and take some better pictures.
-
I had tried that previously, but just tried again after the re-re-cap. No difference.
When the system starts up in that state I hear that initial "pop" from my speakers that something was just connected so I'm pretty sure the AV signal is being output properly. Gives more support to the "system can't find a BIOS to load" angle, though I'm obviously not sure the root of that (bad BIOSes, damaged traces, etc.).
-
OK, so mostly bad news, but also some weird.
There was one cap that I couldn't quite get an angle on to see if the leads were touching so I removed that one first. And yep, they were, immediately under the body of the cap one of the leads had bent at a sharp angle and make contact with the other. I cleaned it up, tested it on my multi meter and reinstalled it. Plugged everything in and crossed my fingers. No luck.
So I went and removed all of the other caps I had circled in red, tested them all and reinstalled. Still got the 3 boot FRAG with the modchip in or out. At this point I think that when I firs put them in the other day, I forgot to lower my iron's temp after dealing with the larger ground planed caps and lifted a few too many pads.
Since I was grasping at straws anyway, I decided to remove the D0 wire from the screw hole ground and put it back on the modchip's ground. Figured that's where it was when I originally installed it anyway. Try to boot with the modchip on, 3 boot FRAG. I take the modchip off and it's solid green light but no AV. I'm not sure what that's about. Why would the system behave differently when D0 is wired to a motherboard ground vs the modchip ground? Unless that confirms there is some other board damage I'm not seeing. Perhaps a lead, perhaps not.
-
Hm, I'll have to look around for a US equivalent of that.
Thanks for the tips, I'll try this out tonight.
-
Thanks for taking a look! Yes, that cap isn't quite flush with the board along with one or two others. Since I had trouble clearing all of the solder out of some vias, it was a little tough getting the new caps in cleanly. I didn't want to try removing/reseating them for fear of doing further damage, but seems like that's the right place to start to rule it out as an issue.
Do you have any advice for getting these out and clearing the vias without too much hassle? The large ground planes in some spots kept soaking up the heat from my iron and I didn't want to crank the temp too high. All I have is a soldering station, flux, copper wick and two of those plastic solder suckers.
This is the iron I have, for reference. I bought it 4 years ago.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079VVHPPS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have half a mind to just use all of my Amazon gift card balance and credit card rewards to buy the Hakko de-soldering gun. I would only have to go out of pocket $50 or $60. But that seems a bit much haha
-
Hey all,
tl;dr Started to recap my 1.4, testing as I went. Board eventually started to 3 boot frag, cannot get it to recover. Did I break it beyond repair?
So, I replaced the power supply that I accidentally blew up and all was good. Since I noticed that the caps by the CPU were bulging, I figured I might as well replace them before going any further so I ordered a full board cap kit from Console5.
I've recapped other devices before, but I guess I must have been lucky because this gave me problems immediately. The multi-layer board and large ground planes made it extremely difficult to get caps out and clear the vias of left over solder. I don't have a hot air station or board pre-heater or anything like that which I'm sure would have made things much easier (one bedroom apartment with two people and a cat, space is at a premium).
Since I was afraid I was doing damage to pads/internal board layers getting caps and solder out, I made sure to test the system after replacing every few caps. I decided not to do the whole board since I was having difficulty, and would stop after these last few. Well, after replacing those last few the system no longer boots. Here's what I'm getting:
The first few times I tried booting, I got the 3 boots and FRAG. I reflowed some solder on questionable joints and got a solid green light, but no AV (seems to indicate inability to load a BIOS). Unplugged my modchip, but same issue. While not impossible, it seemed unlikely that both the onboard BIOS (this board was previously TSOPed) and the modchip BIOS would be corrupted so I felt I must have done too much board damage somewhere and maybe destroyed an internal trace or something. After going back and forth checking all the caps I replaced and even trying to solder from the top side to ensure a through-and-through connection (please, forgive me), I wound up at: 3 boot FRAG when modchip installed, but solid green no AV with modchip uninstalled.
This led me to think that maybe there was an issue with the LPC though I hadn't touched that area since I originally installed the pin header 4 years ago. I reflowed those joints and moved the D0 wire from the Aladdin chip to a ground/screw hole on the board. Continuity between LPC pins and their respective traces check out fine on my multi meter. Now I get 3 boot frag with or without the modchip plugged in.
Anyone have any advice or see anything in the pictures that I don't? Any help is appreciated.
Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/WEKo0vb
The caps circled in blue at the ones I replaced and was able to still boot after. The ones in red are the last ones I replaced, no booting since replacing them. All other caps are original.
-
So good news. The new power supply arrived today (that seller shipped real quick) and it works. My Xbox booted right up and into the dashboard. Voltages on the new PSU seem normal.
Crisis averted.
-
3
-
-
Haha glad I'm not the only one who has made this careless error. Can't say I've ever dropped a revolver on anything, though. I'm intrigued to know more, but also maybe not, ya know?
-
Did some additional triage. Plugged the Xbox into the wall with the PSU disconnected from motherboard and internal components. Used the pinout guide to probe the pins of the motherboard connector and got 0V across the standby. Shorted the power on pins and still read 0V across all readings. So that tells me the PSU is toast. Hopefully nothing on the motherboard went with it.
The seller on eBay said they have a 30 day return policy, but they accidentally listed the wrong item. They actually have the Delta DPSN-96BP, but from what I understand that should still work for me since PSUs are interchangeable within 1.2 - 1.5 revisions.
Now I just have to wait for it to arrive.
-
1
-
-
Yeah kind of what I was thinking. There's one on eBay for $40, the sticker has the same model number as mine (FTPS-0007 Rev:B). Is there anything I can test first to confirm it is just the PSU that was damaged and nothing on the motherboard?
-
That's the heatsink for the attached voltage regulator. From my understanding, you should always assume they're live because there's no guarantee of any insulating material between the voltage regulator and the heatsink. I'm guessing that's the case here. So the question is, is the voltage regulator fried? Some other component connected to the regulator? Both?
When I was looking around I noticed that some of the caps by the CPU need replacing/starting to bulge so if I'm going to have to remove the boards and replace components anyway, then I was might as well try to diagnose what blew on the PSU, just not sure where to start.
-
Hey all,
To make a long story short, I spent most of today troubleshooting issues on my mod chipped 1.4 related to BIOS flashing, dashboard loading, swapping from stock HDD to a new one, stupid friggin error code 16, etc. I was confident I had finally solved the issue(s) and was about to plug in my new HDD to a (hopefully) successful boot. I had been working with the Xbox open all day swapping between the HDDs, but this time I had to remove the plastic HDD and DVD trays so I could get to my mod chip on the other side of the board. While the Xbox was plugged in and turned off, I let the IDE/SATA adapter dangle while I plugged the molex connector into my HDD. The adapter board made contact with a component in the PSU and POP. I had forgotten to put the plastic HDD tray back in place.
Attached are photos of the PSU and adapter. When pressing the power button, nothing happens. I'm hoping it's jut the PSU that is damaged and nothing on the mainboard. I will leave it unplugged overnight then remove the PSU tomorrow to check for any damage on the underside.
Has anyone here had a similar experience? Should I probe the PSU first to narrow down exactly what's wrong or is it better to just buy a replacement? Assuming I'll need a new IDE/SATA adapter as well.
Thanks,
Patrick
-
Yeah, I can give that a try. I put it on C as the per the instructions on the project's GitHub page.
Thanks for the recommendation.
-
Hey everyone,
I experienced some issues last night attempting to download content through XBMC4Gamers v1.3.001. I was wondering if anyone else has experienced something similar. I have a 1.4 system that was originally softmodded with Rocky5's tool and XBMC4Gamers. I used the stock HDD. Under this configuration, I never experienced any downloading or functionality issues. Last night, I hardmodded the system and that's when the issues began.
My downloads would randomly freeze. Sometimes at 2% complete, sometimes at 34%, sometimes at 96%. I'm able to select the Cancel option, but it doesn't seem to work (the words "Canceling" appear, but nothing happens after). I'm able to get out of this by clicking L-Stick to reload the skin, using IGR or simply rebooting the system manually.
It only occurred once when trying to update the URLDownloader (every other attempt was successful), but it kept happening every time I tried to download the Artwork Installer. I thought since that is a rather large download and would take some time, I would try something else. So I tried downloading the latest stable build (~40 MB) and even that froze on one or two attempts, though, it did eventually complete.
I attempted to resolve this issue by clearing/formatting the cache (ironically, using the downloadable tool), deleting and recreating my user profile, and even FTPing over a fresh copy of XBMC4Gamers. None of these seemed to have any effect.
I believe I followed all of the proper steps (but please let me know if I didn't).
- Backup softmodded stock HDD data to PC
- Install Aladdin XT-4032 modchip
- Use HeXEn 2020 disc to flash a new BIOS: EvoX M8+ (F and G) 256K
- Replace stock HDD with 2TB SATA HDD
- Use HeXEn 2020 disc to setup new NTSC Xbox
- Use Xbpartitioner 1.3 to partition the F and G drives to 927GB (or whatever the number was) each with 64K cluster
- Verify everything works so bar by booting into Evo dashboard
- FTP the latest XBMC4Gamers stable build to C:\XBMC4Gamers
- Use XBE shortcut trick to make XBMC4Gamers my default dashboard
- Boot into XBMC4Gamers and create my user profile
- Verify everything works by FTPing a game to F:\Games and starting it
None of my other devices are experiencing network issues so I don't think it's related to my network or Internet connection. Has anyone else experienced this? Is there any more information I can provide that might be useful (logs)?
Thanks,
Patrick
-
Where do you have DVD2Xbox located? I have mine installed in E:\Applications\DVD2Xbox. I've ripped a few games and haven't seen this happen. However, I did see XBMC4Gamers create a separate user profile for DVD2Xbox which was a little strange. Was able to delete it without issue.
-
Does having 128MB of RAM provide any benefit for playing retail games? Or can they not really take advantage of it? I was trying to play Advent Rising, but the framerate was so inconsistent, and usually low. I caved and paid $6 for it on GOG so I could play it on PC (there's also a sick fan patch for it which helps even more).
-
On 1/21/2020 at 10:14 PM, Rogue Ogre said:
I saw a Youtube video once where someone refurbished an OG XBox and replaced the OEM fan with this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PNLRLU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(Nexus 70mm Real Silent Case Fan).
It apparently is nice and quiet, and as a bonus, fits directly into the XBox without modification. i bought one myself, but haven't had a chance to try it yet. I'll try and report back when I do.
- Rogue Ogre
Hm, I'd definitely like to hear how it worked out for you. This review suggests there was some modification required: https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R3AHBCWLY48BEE/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B003PNLRLU
-
18 hours ago, solarriors said:
@Benur75 : Ah j'ai de la famille près de Genève en plus !
And what is then with the XOSVP and the chimeric solutions HDMI Adapter. This is all really confusing.I'd like to to know, too. I heard about XOSVP a while ago and thought it sounded great. I emailed the creator, but never received a response. Seems he's gone quiet on it.
-
41 minutes ago, SS_Dave said:
Hi QuazyPat
I have see a lot more damage that I have had to fix than that.
I would say the iron is to hot and you held the heat to long on it.
Flip the board and run a link like in this pick and link the R7D10 on the top and it should be all good.
I would use wire-wrap wire and follow the instructions in the previous post.
If you board looks different send a pic of the bottom
Let me know how you get on.
Cheers
SS Dave
Those that can Hard-Mod. Those that can't Soft-Mod.
Thanks, Dave! Appreciate the reply and glad to know that it can still be salvaged. I'll have to think about it. I just have a cheap iron right now, $30 from Micro Center, no temperature control or anything. Not sure if I want to invest a bit of money into better quality equipment if I only rarely use it.
-
13 hours ago, SS_Dave said:
Post a pic and I will let you know.
Cheers
SS Dave
Those that can Hard-Mod. Those that can't Soft-Mod.
R7D10 is dirty for some reason. I didn't really mess around over there so I guess it was already like that. I did buy this system used many years ago, and the board is kinda dirty in general. R7D1 is what I messed up.
-
Oh, the pen is interesting. I completely forgot that was an option. $25 seems steep, but maybe.
I did look through the post and it seems to cover repairing a trace, which makes sense given the OP. On my board, I removed one of the two pads you have to join together (R7D1, I think?). Traces seems fine, still. Would that guide still apply, or is there a different repair method? -
I did something similar yesterday when attempting the TSOP mod on my 1.4 board. I have a cheap soldering iron, no magnifying glass (those pads are real tiny), and little experience. I pulled one of the pads off the board. Decided to stop there and put everything back together to make sure everything still worked (it does). I would like to attempt it again, but I also don't want to spend too much money on decent equipment if I don't plan on using it very often.
How would you fix something like this, though?
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
3 Boot FRAG After Partial Recap With or Without Modchip - 1.4
in Repair
Posted
Yeah, maybe this one will still be useful to someone else for parts.
Thank you for your time and assitance, it's appreciated!