Fringle

Nice, Hopefully it remains stable. I'm off to sleep for now. Which chip are you using in the box? I've read that the limit is about 850.

This sounds like a decent idea. If I wouldn't have completely destroyed the middle connector of my cable I would defiantly give it a shot. Good to know for when the new cable arrives.

Ah, it's all good. Maybe it's something to do with the tsop. It's possible that a modchip can somehow override the FSB clock while the tsop can't for some reason. Could have something to do with the OS that runs on the modchip vs no OS running on a tsop.

Don't worry about it, I'm not. It's not your fault. That particular Xbox was already tsopd when I got it and was showing other signs of failure after I fixed the hard drive errors. Just random pauses for no reason.. I don't think it was heat either, I checked the temp before I shut it down and it was only 55C which is 132F. I really think it was only a matter of time before that one kicked the bucket. The other 1.1 board I have here I took the ram off since it needed new caps and didn't feel like replacing them but ended up breaking one of the pins and I couldn't use it for the ram upgrade so, I may pull the ram off this one and put the ram back on that one and salvage this ones caps since they are still good. If nothing else I get to improve my soldering and fix it or get to see how much I need to improve before attempting a ram upgrade on a working machine.

Good luck. They don't seem that hard to kill. I only played it for about 30 min before shutting it down and unplugging it. I do have another dead board here I could start pulling parts off. If it's the MCPX though I'm not sure if I have the skill to replace that but will give it a shot if need be.

Nah, it wasn't from the file you uploaded. I created my own and flashed that before you even posted yours. Was playing some far cry instincts to see if I could tell if it was overclocked, shut it off for about 20min and when I plugged it back in that's when it was toast. So it's possible my overclock was working and has damaged something. It's ok, these 3 Xboxes were given to me already broken.

Well I would but it seems that the xbox I was flashing is now dead. haha Does the 3 attempts to boot then frag. Not sure if it was the flashing of the bios or just a coincidence. I did unplug it for a bit to use my other one and when I plugged it back in, it's toast. Gonna try another power supply and see what happens. This is why I didn't want to do it on my main one.

So it only reports the correct cpu speed with an IDE HDD attached? Attempting to swap the connector was a terrible idea and there's no way they will take this cable back as defective now. Oh well, at least the console still boots with one drive attached.

I never experienced the boot animation skipping and all games seem to be good. I did how ever just watch a video and it shows that the ide cables for the xbox have the dvd rom connector on backwards and a buddy switched it around. I'm actually going to give this a shot and see if it fixes the dvd drive not working with this cable.

I've create two now and both got the same results with Cerbios UDMA 2. May try another version bios though and see if that works. Set the gpu to 290 and the cpu to 800 and it still boots so that's at least good. Would be nice if there was another way to tell. Does the N64 maybe have an onscreen frame rate that one could check and see if it increases with the overclocked bios?

Just flashed my other 1.0 with an oc bios and it's not showing either. Still reports stock speed so not sure if it worked myself. Wonder if there is another application that shows it.

No worries, I've got the overclock tool and already created one. Just holding off on flashing it until I have a way to recover. I internally soldered in a wii2hdmi that makes it hard to remove the board should I need to, to install a modchip in the main Xbox that I use. I used expoxy to hold it in place since hot clue wasn't working very well and just put it on top of the avport. The video quality actually isn't that bad and is better than cheap component cables. Might try it on one of the others Xboxes I have though.

It's all good. I already had one of those cables ordered so hopefully only another week. haha I've actually been looking into overclocking but think I should split my tsop or order a cheap modchip before I go ahead and do it. Don't really want to order a modchip since I like to spend as little as I possible on these things but if I have to, I will at some point. Been thinking about just ditching the dvd rom in one of the 3 I have here and cutting it down to a slim so this cable may still be of use. Also ordered 10 ram chips for the ram upgrade as I want to have a try at that too.

I would gladly have bought that cable but since I'm in Canada, Amazon wants to charge 38 dollars for it. Not willing to submit to their price gouging for a cable I can get for 10 bucks elsewhere. My best bet is to get a Startech 18" cable for 10 dollars from newegg and squeeze it in as best I can.

I'm saying that if I put a cerbios formatted hdd on the middle connector of the 40 wire cable with nothing connected to the end connector using the cheap adapter it boots and functions normally. If I do the same on the 80 wire cable with the startech adapter I get error 13 and a message about the UDMA mode being set incorrectly. If I move the startech to the end connector, it boots and functions normally. This essentially tells me the 80 wire cable is bad as it should boot on the middle connector with nothing on the end just as it does with the 40 wire cable and the cheap adapter.

Well I just put the startech on the middle connector. Set as master I get error 13, set to cable select it just doesn't boot. Moving the adapter back to the end connector, it boots with out an issue. I'm almost positive now that it's the middle connector of the cable. My SSD is formatted with Cerbios and set as master at the moment. Boots just fine with both set as Master and Cable Select. EDIT: Middle connector with 40 wire cable and cheap adapter works just fine.

One drive is a brand new SSD that I got yesterday. The others are all old notebook sata hdd's that I've pulled from various consoles over the years. They all seem to work with the startech and the cheap adapter aside from no dvd access with either adapter. The cheap adapter also doesn't like to boot with any bios above UDMA mode 2 no matter which hdd/ssd is attached. The original hdd is an 8gb WD. Just have to wait for a new 80 wire cable to arrive before I completely write off the cable to see if there is any difference. I'm curious though that if I remove the dvd rom and put the startech adapter on the middle connector of the ide cable if it should work with no other device connected. I haven't tried that yet to rule out that particular connector.

Yeah that's what I did. Error 13 with 40 wire cable when booting safe mode with startech. Even flashed the UDMA mode 2 version of the bios to see if it was a glitch but error 13 with any drive attached to the startech adapter with the 40 wire cable booting either safe mode or normal mode. I'm guessing the startech adapter doesn't like the 40 wire cable because it does boot with the cheap adapter.

With the startech adapter safe mode won't even boot with the 40 wire cable with any hdd I attach. Keeps giving me error 13. With my cheap adapter safe mode boots but with no dvd rom access. If I attach an original hdd, dvd drive works. The only difference I can think of is the way I'm building the hdd in FatXplorer. With all of my drives aside from the original I'm choosing the Cerbios option. With the original hdd I'm choosing No LBA increasing /LBA28/Retail option.

It is indeed a yellow insulated cable. I did manage to get it to boot with a stock hdd and option 0 in the ini but it was quite slow and the dvd drive still didn't function. It shows empty/open/busy as status and the icon changes to show that there is a dvd in the drive but the status never changes from busy. I know with the cheap adapter and the 40 wire cable it didn't work in either mode but didn't check with the new one. Will give it a go later and see what happens.

I've tried it with both master and cable select. Each jumper setting returns the same results. I really think it's the cable, even though it's brand new. Even in UDMA mode 2 with the 40 wire cable the dvd drive will only work with the original cable and hdd. After more testing even when I connect the original hdd with the 80 wire cable it fails to boot.

Aside from a higher UDMA mode it's exactly the same with regards to no DVD rom access unless I put the stock hdd back in. EDIT: I've ruled out Cerbios as being the problem by flashing IND Bios and it behaves the exact same way, giving me error 13 with the DVD rom connected. I'm beginning to think my 80 wire ide cable may be at fault. I've got another one ordered but it may not be here for a couple of weeks. Hopefully it sorts this out.

I was using a cheap one until today when I got the Startech brand adapter. This one allows me to go to UDMA mode 5 where the cheap one wouldn't go above 2. This is the one I'm using now: https://www.startech.com/en-ca/hdd/ide2sat2 This is the one I was using up until today: https://www.amazon.ca/SinLoon-Female-Adapter-Computer-Interface/dp/B07TPBC34F

Option 0 and option 1 both give me error 13. Option 2 is the only one that allows me to boot with the DVD rom connected when I'm using the Sata adapter. If I pull the power connector I'm able to boot again with option 1. Tried with both a Samsung and Thomson drive and both do the same thing and it doesn't matter which UDMA mode bios I use, they all do the same thing. If I put the stock drive back in, the DVD drive works like it should.

Recently acquired 3 Xboxes that I have tsop flashed with Cerbios. At first I purchased a cheap sata to IDE adapter and quickly found when I connected it I had no access to the DVD rom. I was also using the 40 wire IDE cable at the time so, I purchased an 80 wire IDE cable hoping it would solve the problem but unfortunately still no DVD rom access. I then purchased the startech adapter believing it would indeed fix the issue but alas, still no DVD rom access. With the startech adapter if I enable the option in the cerbios.ini file for DVD & HDD I get error 13 no mater which UDMA bios I flash and can't even boot into safe mode. So, doing this requires me to remove the drive and connect it to my pc to edit the ini file back to HDD & No DVD. Once I do this I can boot with up to UDMA mode 5 enabled. I was using old laptop sata drives until today when I got an SSD with the startech adapter but it still does the same thing. It also doesn't matter which position I move the jumper to on the adapter. Master and Cable select both do the same thing in all 3 Xboxes. Any ideas?