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amak79

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Posts posted by amak79

  1. On 4/27/2024 at 5:02 AM, MadMartigan said:

    I had a bunch of stuff in my cart on their website and I backed out when they wanted $40+ for shipping. 

    I got quoted $14 AUD for shipping and $9 AUD for the parts using SLA resin. I think that's reasonable, and much cheaper than having it printed locally.

    I just don't know what material to select. FDM has ABS, PLA, TPU, ASA and PA12-CF, while SLA has various types of resin. I find it very confusing.

  2. 45 minutes ago, big F said:

    Not sure why you were told the original finish is not plating.  It certainly is. Every one of my extensive collection has a plated RF shield. Maybe yours was painted previously, although it doesn't look like it in the photos. I used to work for a company that did electroplating so have shall we say a bit of experience in it.  You can also solder the RF plating as I have done on a couple,  cant do that with paint.

    I thought it was plated as well. It certainly wasn't painted since it was never opened before I purchased it. I guess they assumed it was since the original finish stripped away so easily.

  3. I finally got my RF shield restored. I went with metal plating instead of painting. Below are some before and after photos. Unfortunately the before photos are with the case on but you can still see the difference.

    1a.thumb.jpg.1394cbebe616e2290a5494899b178538.jpg1b.thumb.jpg.f550da6206d32b4ac95b341aef5e57c0.jpg2a.thumb.jpg.a0ffd76d6f9a967cfd5401bed512d932.jpg2b.thumb.jpg.fe6d753d2f4fd6f327598b16cf2cee6e.jpg3a.thumb.jpg.b018c6b597cbc0ccc0114d2d9870f420.jpg

    Apparently the original finish was not metal plated, but some kind of metallic paint. When the RF shield was placed into the rust/paint removal solution the original finish came off instantly.

    A couple things to note. Although the rust has been removed, the pitting of the metal remains visible. I was warned about this before hand. The inside corners on the bottom piece were very difficult to plate. A special anode had to be created for that area, but even with that there are spots where the metal plating coverage wasn't 100%.

    I was originally going to use a rust removal solution (I didn’t want to sand it) and spray paint it, but the cost was only slightly less than metal plating.

    Overall I’m very happy with the result. I’m considering having the RF shield from my 1.4 Xbox restored. It doesn’t have any rust but it's very tarnished, so the result should be even better.

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 1
  4. 18 minutes ago, SoftMachine said:

    Thanks, I'm gonna go through that tomorrow and start adding IDs. That list has me wondering if those ps4/3 wireless dongles would work, I just ordered one

    I think most of those adapters look like Xbox 360 controllers on the host, so they should work. I have an official Sony PS4 Wireless Adapter that doesn't do that. It has a USB vendor/device ID of 054c:0ba0.

  5. 1 hour ago, SoftMachine said:

    I'd also add that Playstation controllers are recognized by USB vendor and device ID, I'm not positive if there's a better way to do that, but those need to be manually added to the program to work. I need more of these IDs so if you're aware of some list somewhere, or your aftermarket Playstation 4/5 controller isn't working, just give me the VID/PID and I'll add them. I also need these for Playstation 3 controllers once I get around to adding support for those.

    You can try the the USB ID Repository: http://www.linux-usb.org/usb-ids.html

    This list is used by Linux distributions to identify USB devices.

    • Like 1
  6. 10 hours ago, nikeymikey said:

    I've used Jenolite Directorust on Xbox RF Shields and for a few other consoles too. 

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08MB1BS1C/ref=twister_B08V1FS3FK?th=1

    I still have the Canary Yellow example from the first post. I can crack it open and show you the inside later on :)

    They also do a nice silver that does well as a straight up rust cover up job. 

     

    The Canary Yellow looks very nice, but I will go with silver or chrome to try and match the original. I think silver is too flat and chrome too shiny, but it's as close as I can get it.

    There is a metal polishing/chroming place near me so I may bring it in to get a quote. I don't except it to be cheap.

    2 hours ago, MadMartigan said:

    Be sure to wet-sand beforehand or apply a good primer coat for metal. 
     

    https://imgur.com/a/lbqAUnO

    Thanks for the tip.

    • Like 1
  7. On 6/21/2023 at 11:16 AM, Bowlsnapper said:

    Heh, yeah. Just wanted to make it look new.

    Lol, crispy. Nice.

    Can you please show how the painted RF shield looks with the case opened? I have a Crystal Xbox with a rusted RF shield that needs to be painted, but I'm not sure which paint to use. I would like it to look as close as possible to the original.

  8. 3 hours ago, SS_Dave said:

    You don't have to edit the settings in the Cerbios tool with the exception of the UDMA6 setting and you can keep using the cerbios.ini.

    I tested 2.3.0 Beta when it was released and it didn't seem to respect my custom IGR settings. I'll give it another test with the latest Beta. Thanks.

  9. Is there an exhaustive list of PAL region locked games? My PAL disc copies of Brothers in Arms: Road to Hill 30, Lego Star Wars II: The Original Trilogy, and Pitfall: The Lost Expedition only work in PAL mode. Although Brothers in Arms works from a cold boot so it might be some other problem.

  10. 24 minutes ago, SS_Dave said:

    Why not use the configuration program and edit the IGR to what you prefer.

    I could, but I would need to do it for every release. It's a minor issue. I just thought it was a little step backwards. The Cerbios team probably had a valid reason for removing IGR configuration from the ini file.

  11. I tested the 2.3.0 Beta release and unfortunately the IGR entries have been removed from the cerbios.ini file and are no longer recognized. This is confirmed by the the Cerbios Tool readme file:

    Quote

    IGR combos are now only set in bios using Cerbios Tool. They will be ignored if found inside the cerbios.ini file.

    I guess I'll just have to adapt to the default IGR combos.

  12. 57 minutes ago, KaosEngineer said:

    A skin doesn't modify UnleashX's config.xml file. It only sets how the information displayed by the dashboard looks to the user.  

     

    It is up to the user to edit config.xml to set what directories are used to populate the menus and which items and their order are to be included in the menu.

    I understand that but the skin archive provides an Unleash Config.xml file when it really shouldn't. But since it does I thought it could be adapted so there doesn't need to be two versions.

  13. I will try it. Thanks.

    3 hours ago, si_kabayan said:

    But, the Config.xml need a bit of editing as it's uses E:\Applications and E:\Dashboards as its paths.

    Adjust it to your ogxbox paths, which is usually E:\Apps and E:\Dash. A simple find and replace will do.

    Couldn't you add additional <Path> elements for applications and dashboards so you don't need to release two versions?

    <List Text="Applications" Sort="On" DelayLoad="True">
      <Path>E:\Apps</Path>
      <Path>F:\Apps</Path>
      <Path>G:\Apps</Path>
      <Path>E:\Applications</Path>
      <Path>F:\Applications</Path>
      <Path>G:\Applications</Path>
    </List>

     

  14. 7 minutes ago, prtscn said:

    I remedy this by loading fatxplorer first and enter hdd security settings tab, then in options i change device type from automatic to one of the listed devices, in my case SAT.

    I will try that method the next time I need to unlock a drive. I followed the advice from the FATXplorer Beta 21 announcement under the "Locked Device Observations" section.

  15. On 12/13/2022 at 4:20 PM, willis said:

    ok, i tried this out and it looked like the hdd was there on the drop down list. Then when I chose the hdd it starts checking device status and ultimately gives me this:

    FATXplorer error "Failed to check the status of (my hdd name) usb device. SmartMon Tools exited with code 2"

    Locked drives will be in a frozen state which prevents unlocking. With the drive plugged in and powered, suspend/resume your system. This should clear the the frozen state. Sometimes this doesn't work and you will need to reboot and try again. You can also try unpluging/plugging the power cable to the HDD after Windows has booted.

  16. I have Aladdin Advance with a genuine SST49LF020 that I replaced with a XeniumICE. The Aladdin was soldered directly to the pin header and unfortunately I lifted one of the pads on the mod chip PCB while desoldering it. I had no intention of using the mod chip again since it has no header socket and can only be installed by soldering it directly to the pin header. However I was wondering if the SST49LF020 chip would work If I put it into one of the non-flashable Aladdin's and could it then be flashed with standard Xbox apps?

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