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Help! Aladdin Xblast FRAG but Xbox works with it disconnected (Green light)


Hispano
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The Hakko brand (FX-888D) is probably the best of the budget brands, I have a 15+ year old Hakko and it's never been a problem. I have got a 2nd hand piece with a large tip for soldering parts like the capacitors next to the heat sink and the smaller hand piece with a fine tip for soldering IC's and the like.

I also have a cheap (eBay) solder/hot air station that I use as well and it also uses the Hakko hand pieces/tips.

 

It's not really the tool that makes a good job it's the operator, But a good tools help make the job easier.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
 

 

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2 minutes ago, SS_Dave said:

It's not really the tool that makes a good job it's the operator, But a good tools help make the job easier

I need practice more 😅 But what do you think about my last work soldering in pins? You see all fine?

And i will look for a hakko then! Thanks for your tip Dave! 😊

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6 hours ago, Hispano said:

I need practice more 😅 But what do you think about my last work soldering in pins? You see all fine?

And i will look for a hakko then! Thanks for your tip Dave! 😊

The latest solder work is 100% better and well done on cleaning up the excess solder, The D0 wire to the main board is also an excellent example of how people should be attaching that wire to the board .

As I mentioned before it's not really the quality of the tool that makes a good job it's the operator, But a good tools help make the job easier. If you get your hands some old PCB's to practice on soldering gets easier, Get some good quality 60/40 leaded solder and flux paste and a hand operated solder sucker along with the solder wick is a good start.

 

Now I am just been picky the 2 in red are the only joints that let that entire LPC down. and red wire to the D0 on the board did look better in the 1st pics so i suspect you have un-soldered and re-soldered it.

IMG-20230222-210308.jpg

 

Total 9.5/10 and you should be proud of the work you have done.

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
 

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11 hours ago, SS_Dave said:

The Hakko brand (FX-888D) is probably the best of the budget brands, I have a 15+ year old Hakko and it's never been a problem. I have got a 2nd hand piece with a large tip for soldering parts like the capacitors next to the heat sink and the smaller hand piece with a fine tip for soldering IC's and the like.

Thanks Dave! i ordered one and a few tips more to do better solderings! I hope that with the replacement of my Aladdin Xblast my Xbox will run fine, i  keep you informed :)

Also, if i got always continuity and the same voltages (after and before resolder LPC points) all my work should be correct, right?

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8 minutes ago, Hispano said:

Also, if i got always continuity and the same voltages (after and before resolder LPC points) all my work should be correct, right?

I am very confident that a new mod-chip will fix it as with all your testing if I was the seller I would be sending you a replacement chip and including a return postage so I could see what happened to the 1st mod-chip.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
 

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7 hours ago, SS_Dave said:

I am very confident that a new mod-chip will fix it as with all your testing if I was the seller I would be sending you a replacement chip and including a return postage so I could see what happened to the 1st mod-chip.

 

Hi again Dave! I was doing the last continuity and resistance test against bottom board points and always got 0 Ohm with it but i have a question because i have doubts if im doing it well: what measure should i use 200, 2k, 20k, 200k or 2M Ohm?

And another question, in continuity mode (beeper) all beep fine (long beep) but in pin 2, i always got beep with interruptions, is normal (i reflowed this pin a bit more but i dont get a long beep) get interrupted beeps?

And i discovered too that the 2 ground pins (2 and 12) beep fine (long beep) against every ground hole (screw hole) and one against another

What do you think about my new questions? I want to exhaust my chances to fix my chip installation 😅

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7 hours ago, SS_Dave said:

I am very confident that a new mod-chip will fix it as with all your testing if I was the seller I would be sending you a replacement chip and including a return postage so I could see what happened to the 1st mod-chip.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
 

Also i discovered a table with different lights of Xbox and i was wrong calling FRAG to my problem, mine is Christmas lights 😳.

I hope that mistake dont make differences to get a solution

1609599386_Xboxlederrorcodes.JPG.bb789c825acd7e3a8a80bfd47d764340.jpeg.74e638361ec44837ab514a759a851ef8.jpeg

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3 hours ago, Hispano said:

Also i discovered a table with different lights of Xbox and i was wrong calling FRAG to my problem, mine is Christmas lights 😳.

I hope that mistake dont make differences to get a solution

I still believe the modchip has a blank EEprom. 

That list you found lists "Usually due to a failed or improperly installed modchip

We have been over your installation and besides some soldering issues at first, The soldering issue has been fixed so that leaves the Mod-chip at fault.

If it was a installation problem then just disconnecting the D0 wire ( Red wire) from the modchip would not allow the Xbox to boot normally.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
 

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14 minutes ago, SS_Dave said:

I still believe the modchip has a blank EEprom. 

That list you found lists "Usually due to a failed or improperly installed modchip

We have been over your installation and besides some soldering issues at first, The soldering issue has been fixed so that leaves the Mod-chip at fault.

If it was a installation problem then just disconnecting the D0 wire ( Red wire) from the modchip would not allow the Xbox to boot normally.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
 

What do you think about this too?

4 hours ago, Hispano said:

Hi again Dave! I was doing the last continuity and resistance test against bottom board points and always got 0 Ohm with it but i have a question because i have doubts if im doing it well: what measure should i use 200, 2k, 20k, 200k or 2M Ohm?

And another question, in continuity mode (beeper) all beep fine (long beep) but in pin 2, i always got beep with interruptions, is normal (i reflowed this pin a bit more but i dont get a long beep) get interrupted beeps?

And i discovered too that the 2 ground pins (2 and 12) beep fine (long beep) against every ground hole (screw hole) and one against another

What do you think about my new questions? I want to exhaust my chances to fix my chip installation 😅

Also modzville (the chip seller) told me that he always tested them before send them but maybe is a problem of the aladdin itself and not the SST chip

And thanks for help me a lot with my installation and to choose a better solder 😊 I want receive my Hakko to try it! 😀

Edited by Hispano
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Another thing that i tried now and makes me think that we are right and the chip is blank is that i tried to boot with it connected and with D0 to chip to too but without the SST chip and my Xbox FRAG. Then i supose that is a failure from EEPROM, the chip cant read from it because is blank

Then all my installation is fine!

Im right, Dave?

IMG_20230223_234141.thumb.jpg.01d7f93e9b67e721327bf23f489f917f.jpg

 

Edited by Hispano
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23 hours ago, Hispano said:

Also modzville (the chip seller) told me that he always tested them before send them but maybe is a problem of the aladdin itself and not the SST chip

Anything is possible and it could be a faulty CPLD chip or a faulty EEprom and there is always a chance the mod-chip that was shipped to you is one that was in the box of tested chips by mistake ( we all can make mistakes ).

 

21 hours ago, Hispano said:

Then i supose that is a failure from EEPROM, the chip cant read from it because is blank

Then all my installation is fine!

The only way to 100% confirm if the eeprom is a black would  be to read the 49lf080 with a eeprom reader/writer or to fit a known working eeprom from another Xblast chip.

 

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/23/2023 at 9:40 PM, SS_Dave said:

We have been over your installation and besides some soldering issues at first, The soldering issue has been fixed so that leaves the Mod-chip at fault.

Hi Dave and all the mates that helped me to solve my problem! Finally the problem was the chip and my solder job is fine all you said! 😊

With my modchip replacement all is working like a charm! 😀

Thanks to all of you for your patience and help to solve it!

Compress_20230308_232058_8945.thumb.jpg.fc22ac2a76c21bd8c2f25cf058a76609.jpg

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1 hour ago, Hispano said:

Hi Dave and all the mates that helped me to solve my problem! Finally the problem was the chip and my solder job is fine all you said! 😊

With my modchip replacement all is working like a charm! 😀

Thanks to all of you for your patience and help to solve it!

You are welcome and that's for posting that you have now got it sorted.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
 

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