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Classic XBOX Board Rev 1.6 no Picture


Stef
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Hi,

i´m Stef from Germany and recently got my hands on a apperantly "half"- working Classic XBOX for free, MFD 2005.

Since almost nothing was included (no AVIF Adapter, Cables of the Controllers were cut and are not available), I removed the AVIF-Socket and
tried to get at least a Composite output on Pins 21&23 by bridging Pins 11&12 in order to select Mode 2 (both seen from the underside of the PCB).

I have no signals on any Video Output Pin except for Scart Blanking. The Box starts up, LED turns solid green, Powerbutton opens the
DVD tray, box turns automatically off after some time of inactivity. Before i made the 11&12-Bridge to select the mode, the Box started to Flash Green/Red after some time, so at least it recognizes the Mode settings and acts accordingly.

Likewise it could be a fried BIOS, but i have some electronics experience (small analog Oscilloscope in 10 MHz Range, a 8 Channel Logic Analyzer and Fluke MM is available) and i´d like to check the Signal Flow / In-out of the - i assume - Video Converter Chip straight below of the AVIF-Plug. Is there any pinout description for this specific IC available or any additional documentation regarding signalling on the board available? Caps seem to be ok, Voltages are in their specific range. Fiddling around with heat in order to detect a loose IC connection or pressing on the board on some areas doesnt´t change anything.

Thank you very much!
Best regards Stef
 

 

Edited by Stef
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Got forward. I have somewhat like a quite distorted picture, but only in NTSC Mode when 9&10 on the PCB underside is interconnected, which my old 50 Hz C64 Composite Monitor couldn´t display at all. I wonder why 11&12 doesn´t switch into PAL Mode. The Pin Count from the Socket vs the PCB Count is quite confusing for me...

 

Edited by Stef
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Will do that with a AVR/8051 or a with CH341 (need it for programming 8051s anyway) - or, if this can be done with some sort of "security" in mind, with ConfigMagic....just for interest - if the HDD is unlocked, does the HDD key stored in EEPROM not play any rule anymore - or does the key need to be zeroed out anyway in the EEPROM?

But one of the steps i need to do at least for ConfigMagic is to rewire the Controllers, since they have no cables anymore (some idiot cut and take them away). Maybe i throw out the original Connectors, use USB Type A Plugs and Connectors and 3D-print the necessary holders. 

What´s the deal with CSYNC on the Controller connector? Is it for shutter glasses?

@KaosEngineer at the following message (cannot reply anymore today) - thanks for the Explanation. I suppose NTSC YPbPr outputs also Composite and that my old Monitor nevertheless supports 60Hz unexpecetly. Idk why the picture was distorted on my first try (looked quite out of Sync).

Well, if my TV also supports 60 HZ (guess so), i will be happy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Stef
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1 hour ago, Stef said:

Works . Had to pull a wire between 11,12 and 13 on the PCB.

For PAL composite out, you must ground both mode select 1 and 2 - pins 9 and 11.

Mode Select 2 and 3 grounded - pins 11 and 13 - selects NTSC YPbPr - High-definition AV pack.

 

In the Xbox scene documentation, there are two different numbering schemes in use for the AVIP connector.

1 - 12
13 - 24

and the other

all even pins 2-24
all odd pins 1-23

I prefer using the second as shown in this image:

5bcc3c9c5a91a_ogXboxAVIPPinout.png.fb65ca7ba5f919b0bc1cd94c143657de.png

However, xboxdevwiki.net and gamesx.com use the first numbering scheme:

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  • 9 months later...
On 2/12/2023 at 3:49 AM, Stef said:

Will do that with a AVR/8051 or a with CH341 (need it for programming 8051s anyway) - or, if this can be done with some sort of "security" in mind, with ConfigMagic....just for interest - if the HDD is unlocked, does the HDD key stored in EEPROM not play any rule anymore - or does the key need to be zeroed out anyway in the EEPROM?

But one of the steps i need to do at least for ConfigMagic is to rewire the Controllers, since they have no cables anymore (some idiot cut and take them away). Maybe i throw out the original Connectors, use USB Type A Plugs and Connectors and 3D-print the necessary holders. 

What´s the deal with CSYNC on the Controller connector? Is it for shutter glasses?

@KaosEngineer at the following message (cannot reply anymore today) - thanks for the Explanation. I suppose NTSC YPbPr outputs also Composite and that my old Monitor nevertheless supports 60Hz unexpecetly. Idk why the picture was distorted on my first try (looked quite out of Sync).

Well, if my TV also supports 60 HZ (guess so), i will be happy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The topic is a bit older, but the sync connection is intended for the light gun.

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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