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Motherboard was eaten through on Xecuter v2.6 chip mod xbox, trying to replace mobo and get HD to work.


peco_de_guile
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My family absolutely adores our original xbox. It was modded back in the day with an Xecuter v2.6 chip with is connected to the debug pins, and a few other misc spots.  

I didn't get to the clock chip in time, and corrosion ate through the tiny edge traces under the board. I've tried repairing it, but it's beyond me... once it warms up, it goes crazy on/off eject/close...

I have another 1.0 motherboard and figured I could use that as a replacement, then cross the HDD Key when I got there.  So I followed the pinout of the original motherboard and replicated its connections, installed the new motherboard in the original's case and sure enough, Code 6...  So I softmodded the new mobo with its original HDD with the Rocky setup and null'd the hard drive.  I swapped the HDD back to my original and still no good...

I've read that hard-modded xboxes are capable of working better with non-locking HDDs, so I'm hoping there's something I can do to get this new motherboard communicating with my original hard drive.  I really would like to keep the content that we have on there.  Is there any hope?

Thanks in advance!

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Lock the hard modded console's hard drive using the same HDDKey as you did the softmodded console.

 

The HDDKey along with the hard drive's model and serial number are used to compute the locking/unlocking password sent to the hard drive every time the console boots.  

The hard drive relocks when power is cycled/lost or an IDE bus reset is issued.

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9 hours ago, peco_de_guile said:

My family absolutely adores our original xbox. It was modded back in the day with an Xecuter v2.6 chip with is connected to the debug pins, and a few other misc spots.  

I didn't get to the clock chip in time, and corrosion ate through the tiny edge traces under the board. I've tried repairing it, but it's beyond me... once it warms up, it goes crazy on/off eject/close...

I have another 1.0 motherboard and figured I could use that as a replacement, then cross the HDD Key when I got there.  So I followed the pinout of the original motherboard and replicated its connections, installed the new motherboard in the original's case and sure enough, Code 6...  So I softmodded the new mobo with its original HDD with the Rocky setup and null'd the hard drive.  I swapped the HDD back to my original and still no good...

I've read that hard-modded xboxes are capable of working better with non-locking HDDs, so I'm hoping there's something I can do to get this new motherboard communicating with my original hard drive.  I really would like to keep the content that we have on there.  Is there any hope?

Thanks in advance!

Clean all of the leaked electrolyte residue from both the top and bottom surfaces of the motherboard.

Then, it is easier to bypass the trace damage completely than to repair tiny spots on the edge of the motherboard.

You can solder two wires from the proper pads next to the front panel power/eject board connector to the System Management Controller (SMC) pins - a PIC processor.

The top three-quarters of the following image shows two color-coded pins on the SMC that attach to the bottom quarter section's two like color-coded vias (pads):

pe_trace_10-11.jpg.76f8347f3c9d10c6875030ce7d26d038.jpg

Solder then ends of a 30 AWG insulated wire to the cyan colored via and PIC processor pin.  Do the same thing for the violet colored locations.

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1 hour ago, KaosEngineer said:

Lock the hard modded console's hard drive using the same HDDKey as you did the softmodded console.

Thanks for the replies amigo!

I'm not sure how to accomplish this, as the Xbox won't boot if hardmod hdd is connected. 
Or would hot swapping the optical drive for this hdd work? But with what tool...?

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1 hour ago, KaosEngineer said:

Clean all of the leaked electrolyte residue from both the top and bottom surfaces of the motherboard.

Then, it is easier to bypass the trace damage completely than to repair tiny spots on the edge of the motherboard.

You can solder two wires from the proper pads next to the front panel power/eject board connector to the System Management Controller (SMC) pins - a PIC processor.

The top three-quarters of the following image shows two color-coded pins on the SMC that attach to the bottom quarter section's two like color-coded vias (pads):

pe_trace_10-11.jpg.76f8347f3c9d10c6875030ce7d26d038.jpg

Solder then ends of a 30 AWG insulated wire to the cyan colored via and PIC processor pin.  Do the same thing for the violet colored locations.

I referenced this exact guide and ran the jumpers. At first it behaved normally, but once it warmed up, it shut down. Turning it back on produced a series of random on/off pulses and the disk tray opening and closing. Pretty insane. I'm wondering if the board developed more issues than just those traces... 

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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