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Chimp successful clone, error 11 upon booting with new drive


JasperVanCleef
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Hi all,

First of all, I'd like to thank Rocky5 and all involved in the softmodding tool, that really is a painless way to softmod.

18 years ago I was reading unofficial magazines on Xbox mods and was baffled by all that's possible and I'm glad I can start doing similar stuff thanks to you!

I'm seeking help in the following problem, I posted this on Reddit but maybe you guys will have a better idea of what's going on here. I have seen several topics with the same problems over different boards but have yet to find a solution. I hope you guys don't mind.

I've been stuck on this for the past few days. I'm trying to clone my hard drive (Seagate ST310211A, the 10GB one).

 

I've tried using a WD3200AAJS, which was listed as working on x-pecs by multiple accounts, but haven't had luck as it returns Error 11 (missing/malfunctioning dvd drive).

 

I know for a fact the drive is fine because when I plug everything back together with the stock drive, the console boots properly.

 

Now, the WD is rated for 0.68A at 5v and 12v, so I looked up the current rating for the stock Seagate, which is here

zI45lHsQyDlw-Exh7SEoTPbcRF7-fgOZ1c-M153D

Since the WD was quite a bit higher I took another hard drive I had lying around (Hitachi HTB-DS7AE100(B) ).

 

Now I hadn't seen anything telling me this drive would be lockable or anything but I gave it a try nonetheless. Chimp recognized it fine and the clone went smoothly and it locked okay. The drive is rated for 0.42A for both 5 and 12v, so I thought it'd work better now.

 

Still no luck as I get error 11 again.

 

I do have a new 80 wire 40 pin cable, and am using the startech adaptor. The cable works fine with the stock drive, and the startech adaptor has good reputation, so I'm really at a loss here. Jumper switched back from slave to master (forgot it once and had error 7 this time).

 

Can it be the hard drive drawing too much current and not leaving enough for the dvd drive? Dvd drive tray opens and closes even with error 11, everything's plugged in tight.

 

I'm really at a loss here so any help is greatly appreciated, even if it's just 'buy this HDD, it works fine with the startech adaptor' !

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14 minutes ago, JasperVanCleef said:

Hi all,

First of all, I'd like to thank Rocky5 and all involved in the softmodding tool, that really is a painless way to softmod.

18 years ago I was reading unofficial magazines on Xbox mods and was baffled by all that's possible and I'm glad I can start doing similar stuff thanks to you!

I'm seeking help in the following problem, I posted this on Reddit but maybe you guys will have a better idea of what's going on here. I have seen several topics with the same problems over different boards but have yet to find a solution. I hope you guys don't mind.

I've been stuck on this for the past few days. I'm trying to clone my hard drive (Seagate ST310211A, the 10GB one).

 

I've tried using a WD3200AAJS, which was listed as working on x-pecs by multiple accounts, but haven't had luck as it returns Error 11 (missing/malfunctioning dvd drive).

 

I know for a fact the drive is fine because when I plug everything back together with the stock drive, the console boots properly.

 

Now, the WD is rated for 0.68A at 5v and 12v, so I looked up the current rating for the stock Seagate, which is here

zI45lHsQyDlw-Exh7SEoTPbcRF7-fgOZ1c-M153D

Since the WD was quite a bit higher I took another hard drive I had lying around (Hitachi HTB-DS7AE100(B) ).

 

Now I hadn't seen anything telling me this drive would be lockable or anything but I gave it a try nonetheless. Chimp recognized it fine and the clone went smoothly and it locked okay. The drive is rated for 0.42A for both 5 and 12v, so I thought it'd work better now.

 

Still no luck as I get error 11 again.

 

I do have a new 80 wire 40 pin cable, and am using the startech adaptor. The cable works fine with the stock drive, and the startech adaptor has good reputation, so I'm really at a loss here. Jumper switched back from slave to master (forgot it once and had error 7 this time).

 

Can it be the hard drive drawing too much current and not leaving enough for the dvd drive? Dvd drive tray opens and closes even with error 11, everything's plugged in tight.

 

I'm really at a loss here so any help is greatly appreciated, even if it's just 'buy this HDD, it works fine with the startech adaptor' !

It sounds to me like your jumper setting on the startech adapter is set to slave. Move it to master and see if it boots up. 

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If it all works when you have the stock HD attached and you've tried 2 sata hard drives then i would say there's more than likely an issue with the adapter (if you are sure all your cables, dvd power cable etc are snug and you are sure the startech adapter is set back to master then im thinking hes the problem)

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Cables are snug and everything seems to be working fine with the stock drive. 

However, plugging it all back again to check what version of chimp I had, I noticed that the dashboard would load upon booting, then suddenly disappear and it will be some time before it reappears. 

I don't know if that could be the cause but I tried 'pushing' the ide cable back in the (stock) hard drive and the dashboard came back. 

Now, the cable I'm using is from Amazon and I had to buy 3 minimum so I tested two already. People are saying it does work in their Xbox in the reviews.  

https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B000TND1VI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_3C7QRZJWRF2CA6ATMTMW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I'd buy Chimeric's but I'm not in the US and don't know when I'd get it. 

 

What bums me is the Startech adapter seems to be fine with detecting and the drives 

 

I have half a mind to take my computer's hard drive and try it out. 

Edited by JasperVanCleef
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When you put the old drive in are you using the original IDE cable or the new one?

I've seen many people post messages stating that they have had problems with those yellow insulated 80-wire 40-pin IDE cables.  The wire inside the insulation or at the crimp-on connecter pins may be corroded at the center (SLAVE) connector.  Thus, communications with the DVD drive fails.

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(sorry, couldn't reply due to the 24hr limit).

I'm using the same 80 wire ide cable with the stock drive and it seems to work, though as I've said in the previous message, the dash seems to take longer to appear "solidly". I've also tested two out of the three. 

 

I bit the bullet and got Chimeric's, which will have the added bonus of having the dvd drive connector the right way around.

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It seems to be working alright with the stock HDD and does not seem to be possible given the difference in distance between MB to dvd drive connectors and dvd drive to master connectors. 

However, given the general quality of the cable, it's entirely possible it's reverse from factory?

In any case I ordered Chimeric's cable and should have it in between 10 days to three weeks and will keep you updated when I have it and test the whole thing with it. 

If ever you have other ideas I can try out in the mean time, I'm all ears.

(I took advantage of ordering the ide cable and joined the waiting list for HDMI adapter)

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Hi all, this might be its own thread, but since I opened this one not long ago, I'd rather not open a new one (if the mods would rather I create a new topic, I'll do it).

 

Since I'm waiting on Chimeric's IDE cable, I reinstalled the stock 40 wire cable and am using the stock HDD (modded with the prebuilt version of Rocky5's softmodding tool).

I'm halting the hdd clone thingy til I have the new IDE cable, but I've tried using the system as is and it's pretty hit and miss.

It will do the boot animation and then 2 scenarii :

1) If I'm on my new Tv with my component cable (had to resolder everything cause I misinterpreted the schematics as being from the back 🙄 but it now works properly as I see the boot sequence) : I get a black screen with the occasional flicker.

2) Now, on this LCD PC monitor I'll have either a) it boots and I can go about the menu and all, played a game (too scratched to really start but menu was there, buggy music but working).                                                   or b) the picture flickers and I catch a glimpse of the menu for a split sec and it disappears. I tried going to applications and enigmah to change it back to pal, but my monitor seems unbothered by that (recognises ntsc fine) and every time I press down, thinking I'll be in applications, next flicker I see of the menu, it's back at the top, meaning it's actually rebooted in the meantime.

Here's a video to visualise it : https://imgur.com/a/EmA5mmy

I did unplug everything to clean the console inside out (hadn't cleaned the underside when I removed the clock cap so I did this time, and applied new thermal paste as well). AFAIK everything is plugged in properly.

 

I'm thinking this, AND the weird behaviour with the clones, it is going bust? It's my childhood one so I'd rather keep playing with this one, but if push comes to shove I'll get a new one and turn this one into a lamp, or something.

 

Thanks for your time!

 

 

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I’m not the smartest man in the forum, but judging from the video it looks like you could possibly have something else going on with the motherboard. Did you do anything or than soft mod it and was it tested to be a fully functional system beforehand? I realize you’re the sole owner, but they get old and things happen. If it’s not a v1.6 motherboard, have you removed your clock cap and checked for corrosion or any trace damage top and bottom? 

On 3/12/2022 at 4:38 PM, JasperVanCleef said:

However, given the general quality of the cable, it's entirely possible it's reverse from factory?

I have heard of others having to plug the cables in backwards. I’ve never had to do it so I can’t explain why that would be. Seems like it was way the cable was sending the information or something. 

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38 minutes ago, MadMartigan said:

I’m not the smartest man in the forum, but judging from the video it looks like you could possibly have something else going on with the motherboard. Did you do anything or than soft mod it and was it tested to be a fully functional system beforehand? [...] If it’s not a v1.6 motherboard, have you removed your clock cap and checked for corrosion or any trace damage top and bottom? 

I removed the clock cap about a year ago and it had leaked. It wasn't pretty but it seemed to be okay. 

Then fast forward to this month, decided to dust up the Xbox to play games I had never owned but always wanted (eg Blinx).

Since I had started the softmod and the console was open, I thought 'might as well clean the backside of the MB and change the thermal paste'.

Backside seemed fine but decided to give it a little cleanup with rubbing alcohol. 

https://m.imgur.com/a/y72odPm

What's weird is 10 minutes ago I managed to have it boot to dashboard fine (while opening disc tray). Shut it down then tried to replicate and it's doing the flashing all over again, but the light is solid green (I had changed it in the dashboard because I did not like it being orange) when it reboots.

Fully functional, I'd say it's always had its ups and downs and was actually serviced twice by Microsoft back in the day (drive swap, then new PSU + protection cord with it). I hadn't played it much these past years so other than a clicking hard drive, I'd say it seems to have been okay.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by JasperVanCleef
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Thanks, I was hoping those were artifacts due to my phone's camera, because I hadn't really seen that when I cleaned it, and mostly it was working before I decided to clean it, so I was afraid I fucked something up 😅

I tried cleaning it with 90% alcohol + cotton swabs, do you think I should use a toothbrush around the pads you circled ?

I'll test the continuity this afternoon. Thanks so much for the help!

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I checked for continuity for those three traces and it beeps without having to fiddle around.

I checked the wider trace and it beeps too.

To be complete, I checked the one above C3 and it seems to be fine. 

 

However I noticed that the little transistor just under the clock cap (O7G1 on the board) seems to be very corroded and maybe lifted from the trace ?

Edited by JasperVanCleef
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11 hours ago, MadMartigan said:

If continuity checks out there then hopefully some of the wizards here can delve further into it for you. At least that's one thing you can check off the list. 

I was fearing this, hopefully there is more troubleshooting I can do. 

 

Maybe the fact that I plugged in the av cord with the wrong pins soldered shorted something? I don't think the current is there is strong enough but you never know. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi all,

It seems at last my problem is solved.

So, here's how it got solved.

1) My first problem came from the cloned drive not working properly, though the cloning part was successful and the drive was locked. I had the startech adapter, so I thought it must have been the cables. I ordered Chimeric's cable, still had the same problem (error 11).

Everything was connected fine, the dvd drive was working.

After some tinkering, I must have screwed something up as the xbox would fail to boot to dashboard and was in a bit of a loop. Sometimes the dash would appear for a split second, and be gone the next.

On KaosEngineer's advice, I disabled PAL60 and the flickering was gone on game discs, but the dash still failed to load consistently. After some digging around (it was perhaps obvious but I didn't know), I read a post by Rocky5, talking about his safe mode (START + Y on startup), and this saved me. As he said when the utility was running, I was "in good hands", and I would need to "be careful next time".

That solved my dashboard not loading, done!

2) There still remained the question of error 11 when plugging the new HDD in. Since that error means the DVD drive was not connected, I thought I'd try a DVD or CD for shits and giggles. First disc around was HeXEN. Popped it in, no Error 11 and the disc worked fine. I go around it trying to find useful stuff and thought I might as well try ConfigMagic. I went in there and clicked on "LOCK DRIVE". Chimp had told me the drive was already locked but, might as well try, Configmagic did say "Drive is already locked??", but...

I exited and rebooted, and now it threw error 21, so I knew something was up with the dash, but at least it was the right path. Used START+Y and now everything's good!

I don't know if configmagic helped in any way, I just know it works now.

Anyway, thanks for reading this wild ride and having helped in any way, shape or form, especially to KaosEngineer and MadMartigan. And of course thanks to Rocky5.

Now I'm done with the 1.1, I'm on to the 1.6 I bought for €60 (with dvd remote, controller and memory card - had never seen one for real before) because I thought the 1.1 was toast. Why are Xboxes so expensive now... when I see guys picking those for $4 at Goodwill, I'm jealous. And I had bought a cheaper one there a couple hours before, but upon checking it more closely, I saw it was fully corroded on the side (salesman hadn't let me handle the console...). I brought it back and they let me buy the other one instead.

Wife is okay with it so now I have two Xboxes 🥰

 

 

PS: sorry about the corny formatting, but maybe those colours are gonna help someone someday 😁

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  • 1 year later...

Hello! I know this is an old thread however I just upgraded my hard drive to a 2TB Barracuda and my console started giving me error code 11 on start up with the new drive but not the old one. I got to thinking that the problem might be that the hard drive wasn't playing nice with the particular Samsung disk drive so I pulled the Thompson disk drive out of another Xbox I have (that I need to fix because it doesn't output video at the moment) and what do you know, it fixed the error immediately!  

Hopefully this helps someone!

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