Convert OGxbox Powersupply v1.6 to work on a v1.1

[Sultanpepper]

Hello everyone,

 

I was able to find a 220V powersupply for my broken v1.1 xbox . Now I am aware of the connector and pinout and standby voltages are different. But assuming I have the connector, a 5->3.3V voltage regulator ( for standby ) would it ok ?.

 

Note : The model I'm working with is DPSN-96DP-1

BR

[SS_Dave]

You are better off finding the correct PSU.

https://xboxdevwiki.net/Power_Supply

 

The 1.0 - 1.4 PSU all have the same outputs and you could either make a adaptor lead or rewire the 12 pin/20 pin connectors to suit the Xbox.

 

The 1.6 PSU is only suitable for the 1.6 board.

Can you post a pic of the 1.0-1.1 PSU that has failed?

 

Cheers

SS Dave

Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

 

 

[Sultanpepper]

1 hour ago, SS_Dave said:

You are better off finding the correct PSU.

https://xboxdevwiki.net/Power_Supply

 

The 1.0 - 1.4 PSU all have the same outputs and you could either make a adaptor lead or rewire the 12 pin/20 pin connectors to suit the Xbox.

 

The 1.6 PSU is only suitable for the 1.6 board.

Can you post a pic of the 1.0-1.1 PSU that has failed?

 

Cheers

SS Dave

Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

 

 

Hi Dave,

 

I was not able to find any power supplies 1.0-1.1 or 1.2-1.5 available , I took my chances and ordered the power supply for about $8 . But My reason for asking here is whether I have missed anything other than I will need to step down the standby voltage 5v -> 3.3V . If yes , below in the table Pins 8,9 ,10 & 8 in second row are the standby pins while the +5V is only 1 wire at pin 6 ? .

The faulty power supply turned out to be a blown 110V Power supply (USA) and where I live mains voltage is 220V, so I dismembered it and took it's output cables where I intend to replace the cables with the v1.6 power supply ones. 

 

Please let me know what you think , your help is really appreciated.

 

BR

[SS_Dave]

That one is/was repairable and can be converted to 220 volt by removing the link J1

 The 1.6 PSU wont have the required 3.3volt current to run a 1.0-1.4 without a larger 5v to 3.3v regulator with proper filtering and heat sink.

The 1.0-1.4 needs a 3.3volt 4.8 amp power on supply and a 3.3 v 75ma standby supply

 

Cheers

SS Dave

Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

[Sultanpepper]

EDIT:

Thank you Dave for sharing your thoughts and experience. Ah at first I totally missed that in the V1.6 power supply we don't have a +3.3V, so now we need to get it from somewhere ..... wouldnt taking the +3V3 (regulated) from the +5V make it a problem by stressing on hte +5V rail  ? 

 

for the V1.0 power supply i suppose those are the amperage of each rail

I'm trying to understand the situation I put myself in.

 

Also regarding the faulty power supply (110V) what are the components that need to be changed to convert the PSU to a 220V unit ? also i cant find J1 , would you kindly point out where it's located ?

 

BR

Edited December 16, 2021 by Sultanpepper

[SS_Dave]

The 5 volt supply on the 1.6 should be fine but in my view it would be better to find a 1.0 - 1.4 supply or repair the original.

I did some testing  on jap supply (100 volt) when I was looking at the possibility of converting to 240 volt and I accidently blew it up and it was a fuse and a 170 volt surge protector for the main filter cap that failed.

I also found J11 is not present on a 220 volt version and adding the link allows the supply to work down to 80volt AC and removing the link on the 110v supply allowed the supply to work at 255 volt AC.

 

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave

Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

[Sultanpepper]

56 minutes ago, SS_Dave said:

The 5 volt supply on the 1.6 should be fine but in my view it would be better to find a 1.0 - 1.4 supply or repair the original.

I did some testing  on jap supply (100 volt) when I was looking at the possibility of converting to 240 volt and I accidently blew it up and it was a fuse and a 170 volt surge protector for the main filter cap that failed.

I also found J11 is not present on a 220 volt version and adding the link allows the supply to work down to 80volt AC and removing the link on the 110v supply allowed the supply to work at 255 volt AC.

 

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave

Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Thank you for sharing the interesting information, and thank you again for your time and concern really appreciate it. So as far as i can tell from your post the input filter caps , MOV's need to be replaced with higher rated voltage in accordance to the 220V mains and the jumper needs to be removed. I'll replace those and let you know how it goes, it would help if you have an idea of the values of those ( filter caps , Surge protector (MOV) ) on a 220V model if possible.

 

Also As a backup I'm looing at this switch mode DC-DC module to regulate the 5V -> 3.3V with the v1.6 power supply

https://ram-e-shop.com/product/dc-dc-step-down-converter-8a-4v40vdc-to-1-25v36vdc/

 

Cheers

Sultanpepper

Edited December 16, 2021 by Sultanpepper

[Sultanpepper]

I removed J11 and reinstalled all the output cable , installed the power supply back to the xbox which was tested working yesterday with an atx PSU and unfortunately it did not work, clearly something is broken in the PSU + on the bottom side there is a missing smd capacitor at the output (c301) & missing MOV Z2 . I think I'll call it a day regarding this PSU for now, probably when i receive the v1.6 PSU and get it working (no ideal).

i am also waiting for another power supply for my V1.3 xbox (220V) to arrive where i plan to install it in place of a 110V PSU, maybe by that time i'll take that 110V PSU and try by removing J11 and give it a go with the V1.0 xbox.  

[SS_Dave]

The fuse (Yellow circle) will be blown and it looks like one of the Varistors Z2 (Red circle) is missing and there only job is to hopefully stopping the two main filter caps exploding. When I was testing the PSU's there was 150VDC across the caps each

 

The Varistors are a 150VAC/200VDC on both the 100 and the 220 volt supply's

 

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave

Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

[Sultanpepper]

18 hours ago, SS_Dave said:

The fuse (Yellow circle) will be blown and it looks like one of the Varistors Z2 (Red circle) is missing and there only job is to hopefully stopping the two main filter caps exploding. When I was testing the PSU's there was 150VDC across the caps each

 

The Varistors are a 150VAC/200VDC on both the 100 and the 220 volt supply's

 

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave

Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

Hi Dave, 

Just letting you know that the adapter was repaired and the v1.0 xbox is now working !! , here is what happened,

1. Changed Filter caps to 330uF 250V 

2. Changed Z1 and Z2 with 10D431K 275 Varistors

3. Removed J1 (was under on of the big filter caps).

4. Replaced the slow blow fuse ( it was blown ).

and voila ! , Thanks Dave for the help your're a legend !

BR

 

[SS_Dave]

2 hours ago, Sultanpepper said:

Hi Dave, 

Just letting you know that the adapter was repaired and the v1.0 xbox is now working !! , here is what happened,

1. Changed Filter caps to 330uF 250V 

2. Changed Z1 and Z2 with 10D431K 275 Varistors

3. Removed J1 (was under on of the big filter caps).

4. Replaced the slow blow fuse ( it was blown ).

and voila ! , Thanks Dave for the help your're a legend !

BR

 

You are welcome and good to here you got it working.

 

If you re-install the link J11 it becomes a 100-120 volt AC supply.

 

Cheers

SS Dave

Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.