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v1.0 - PSU capacitor exploded - FRAG


ecordovas
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Let me share some context:

The past year, I read about the clock capacitor, so I decided to open my xbox to check the clock capacitor status and I found there was some leakage, but fortunatelly it didn't corroded other components nor traces. So I removed the clock capacitor and cleaned the area with isopropyl alcohol. Then proceeded to softmod the console with Rocky5 tools and I also updated the harddrive to a 2TB SATA HDD. Then I played almost all Rally Sport Challenge 2 cups (except the last one) to test it and after that I moved the console to the living room.

Another day, I started the console to continue playing and, as soon as I started it, I heard a strong crack inside the console and some burned electronic smell, so I turned it off. Then I opened the console and I found a small tube moving around, so I started looking for its original place until I found it was one of the PSU capacitors, the one rated as 25V 47uf in a delta PSU.

Then I ordered a couple of new PSUs from ebay, a delta and a minebea. As soon as they arrived, I replaced mine with the Delta one and the console can be powered on, but there was a strong burned electronic smell, so I quickly turned it off.

By looking at the CPU capactitors, there was some brownish color, so I changed the 5x 1500uf 6.3v by 3x 3300uf 6.3v Panasonic FM, then turned the console on again and it was FRAGed and the smell it's not longer strong, BUT I still can smell a light "funny smell", this time it smells like "new" electronic.

Please help me to throubleshoot this issue, I really would like to repair this xbox as it is the one I used 20 years ago. If you need pictures of anything please let me know.

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It will help if you upload some pics to a share site and add the links here.

The burnt smell will eventually fade a way and to speed up the smell fading give all the parts (Boards and cases) a good clean.

If it's now FRAGing just after you changed the caps double and triple check you solder work for possible solder blob on the main board.

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
 

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Some images: https://imgur.com/a/aw4d0Ml

There are some images of the OLD PSU, maybe it helps pointing to what could got damaged in the mainboard.

 

I think the FRAG started as soon as the PSU capacitor exploded, I am not completely sure because I hurry to turn it off.

At least I am certain that when I changed the PSU, but haven't replaced the CPU capacitors yet, everytime I power on the console it restarted 3x and then displayed red and green lights 50/50 fast, PLUS a strong smell. Now that I replaced the CPU capacitors there is no longer a strong smell, could that be related to the old CPU capacitors?

And currently, the "light" smell starts everytime I turn on the console, it is not longer a big smell, could I still have a small capacitor dying or about to explode?

Please let me know what else can I attempt, I have a cheap multimeter if it helps in something.

Edited by ecordovas
Add details about the PSU images
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Tries to Boot 3x then FRAG (Christmas Lights)    

Usually due to a failed or improperly installed modchip or the IDE cable being plugged in upside down somewhere.    

Check modchip wiring and IDE cables. If you did not do any soldering, it could be a bad PSU.

 

 

Has the Xbox been hard modded (Mod Chip or bios Re-flash)?

If you have the 12 pin plug disconnected and link the Brown (standby 3.3 volt) to white (PowON) this will turn on the PSU and you can then test the Yellow(12 volt), Red(5 volt), Orange(3.3 volt).

The voltages should be within 10% and as there is no load they maybe on the high side.

psu10-11.gif

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

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@SS_Dave this xbox was never hard modded. I soft modded it just the past year using Rocky5 softmod.

The only soldering made in this board was for:

1) removing the clock capacitor

2) replacing the CPU capacitors

 

I just measured the voltages of the new delta PSU when its powered on:

Blue <nothing>

Brown 3.28V

Orange 3.31V

Red 5.33V

Yellow 10.80V

 

I gonna measure the minebea and let you know.

 

Edit: minebea PSU measures

Blue (POWOK) 3.27V

Brown 3.23V

Orange 3.28V

Red 5.17V

Yellow 11.43V

 

Looks like the delta is failing right? Could it be my mainboard that damage it?

Edited by ecordovas
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Yes the 12 volt on the Delta is a bit low.

The 11.43 on the minebea is ok as it's for the HDD and fan's hve you tried this one in the Xbox?

Can you test the voltages again with it plugged in the main board.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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@SS_Dave I connected the minebea and tried to turn it on, but still the same result: reboot x3 and christmas lights.

I need help with the following:

1) do you want to measure voltages with the console turned on, right?

2) when I turned the console on, there was still a burned electronic smell, that makes me worry (it dissipates a couple seconds after I turn it off). IS it safe for me to measure the voltages meanwhile? I mean, could something explode suddenly if there is a short??

Edited by ecordovas
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3 hours ago, ecordovas said:

2) when I turned the console on, there was still a burned electronic smell, that makes me worry (it dissipates a couple seconds after I turn it off). IS it safe for me to measure the voltages meanwhile? I mean, could something explode suddenly if there is a short??

Is it possible to test with it open? You could see what's going on or where the smell is coming from.

 

On 9/26/2021 at 6:28 AM, ecordovas said:

Looks like the delta is failing right? Could it be my mainboard that damage it?

Mainboards can't damage a PSU except in very exceptional circumstances. 

It's hard to say what went on in there other than it was under some stress for a while but, that could be just from years of use.  I'm sure if you hooked that blown out capacitor in an ESR tester, it would read very high (should read no more than around 5 ohm if good.)

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1 hour ago, Lina_Inverse_ said:

Is it possible to test with it open? You could see what's going on or where the smell is coming from.

 

Mainboards can't damage a PSU except in very exceptional circumstances. 

It's hard to say what went on in there other than it was under some stress for a while but, that could be just from years of use.  I'm sure if you hooked that blown out capacitor in an ESR tester, it would read very high (should read no more than around 5 ohm if good.)

Is it possible that mainboard get worst because of turning it on constantly with this failure?

Is there a way to test shorted capacitors in the pcb, without desoldering?

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6 hours ago, ecordovas said:

@SS_Dave I connected the minebea and tried to turn it on, but still the same result: reboot x3 and christmas lights.

I need help with the following:

1) do you want to measure voltages with the console turned on, right?

2) when I turned the console on, there was still a burned electronic smell, that makes me worry (it dissipates a couple seconds after I turn it off). IS it safe for me to measure the voltages meanwhile? I mean, could something explode suddenly if there is a short??

 

Is the burning smell getting stronger when it's powered on ? or could it be from the fan moving air over the board.

When you are powering it on are the DVD and HDD connected?

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

 

 

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48 minutes ago, SS_Dave said:

 

Is the burning smell getting stronger when it's powered on ? or could it be from the fan moving air over the board.

When you are powering it on are the DVD and HDD connected?

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

 

 

I though the smell could be related to the fan and I disconnected the console fan, BUT forgot to disconnect the GPU fan.

 

I am powering the console without HDD nor DVD

 

Edit:

New findings:

A) Video cable detection still works, if it is disconnected the console flashes green/orange after 3rd attempt

B) I powered the console without fan and noticed a strong "click" sound during each power on attempt (3 times), I got the impression it is around the MCPX X3 chip.

I can feel the smell if I leave the console on during the christmas lights phase.

C) Also, the MCPX X3 gets hot quickly. I can't maintain my finger on top of it during the power attempts sequence.

D) minebea PSU measures (with mainboard)

Blue (POWOK) 3.31V

White 2.84V

Brown 3.21V

Orange 3.31V

Red 5.12V

Yellow 12.34V

 

Edited by ecordovas
Power on values
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21 minutes ago, ecordovas said:

I though the smell could be related to the fan and I disconnected the console fan, BUT forgot to disconnect the GPU fan.

 

I am powering the console without HDD nor DVD

The GPU fan not connected for a few minutes is not a issue. 

If you can have the probes from your meter in the power connector ready to take a reading then power on long enough to get a reading then power off and repeat for the 3 main voltages

3.3, 5, 12 volt

If they are close to the readings you got with the power supply disconnected then you should be safe to keep it powered on longer, If the readings are significantly lower then that's a start where to look.

The 3.3 volt is mainly to run the Clock, SMC (System Management Controller).

The 12 volt is HDD, DVD drive, Fans, Audio section 9 volt regulator.

The 5 volt is the rest

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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12 minutes ago, SS_Dave said:

The GPU fan not connected for a few minutes is not a issue. 

If you can have the probes from your meter in the power connector ready to take a reading then power on long enough to get a reading then power off and repeat for the 3 main voltages

3.3, 5, 12 volt

If they are close to the readings you got with the power supply disconnected then you should be safe to keep it powered on longer, If the readings are significantly lower then that's a start where to look.

The 3.3 volt is mainly to run the Clock, SMC (System Management Controller).

The 12 volt is HDD, DVD drive, Fans, Audio section 9 volt regulator.

The 5 volt is the rest

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

@SS_Dave I got some new findings:

 

A) Video cable detection still works, if it is disconnected the console flashes green/orange after 3rd attempt

B) I powered the console without fan and noticed a strong "click" sound during each power on attempt (3 times), I got the impression it is around the MCPX X3 chip.

I can feel the smell if I leave the console on during the christmas lights phase.

C) Also, the MCPX X3 gets hot quickly. I can't maintain my finger on top of it during the power attempts sequence.

D) minebea PSU measures (with mainboard)

Blue (POWOK) 3.31V

White 2.84V

Brown 3.21V

Orange 3.31V

Red 5.12V

Yellow 12.34V

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14 minutes ago, ecordovas said:

Also, the MCPX X3 gets hot quickly. I can't maintain my finger on top of it during the power attempts sequence.

I would say it has died the MCPX chip's do get hot but not instantly and not hot enough to not hold your finger on it.

16 minutes ago, ecordovas said:

Video cable detection still works, if it is disconnected the console flashes green/orange after 3rd attempt

The SMC chip is still working then.

17 minutes ago, ecordovas said:

Brown 3.21V

I now think it may also power the MCPX chip as well.

 

I think it's now unfortunately it's has become a parts board.

 

Was the HDD nulled?

If not you can find a replacement version 1.0 and swap the eeprom and the new board will have the same board serial number and HDD key to work as if nothing has changed.

The other way would be to read eeprom and write it to a replacement 1.0.

PXL-20210927-015920328.jpg

From memory this board has the same issue that's why the ram has been removed.

 

If you can find someone willing to change the MCPX chip I could ship you a non working board to salvage a MCPX chip from but it would be easier to swap the eeprom.

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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Thanks@SS_Dave, I really appreciate the offering and your help.

I think I have a eeprom.bin in my computer for that HDD.

 

I have some final questions:

1) Should I try to fix the first PSU replacing the 47uf 25V? Or doesn't worth the effort?

2) What could cause the clicking noise I hear at the start? A transistor, IC?

3) I have another working xbox with the original CPU capacitors, should I replace those with the ones I soldered to this xbox?

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8 minutes ago, ecordovas said:

Should I try to fix the first PSU replacing the 47uf 25V? Or doesn't worth the effort?

I would not attempt to repair the original PSU.

In the red box is the high voltage side and on a 240 volt it's around 300 volt DC and around 200VDC on 110 volt, The IC that's on the small board where that cap's located is the regulator/driver for the big transistor in the middle of the PSU and I would think it's also failed.

The yellow box is showing heat damage from the diode in the middle and is also a common failure.

Xbox-PSU.jpg

22 minutes ago, ecordovas said:

I have another working Xbox with the original CPU capacitors, should I replace those with the ones I soldered to this Xbox?

Yes I would.

22 minutes ago, ecordovas said:

What could cause the clicking noise I hear at the start? A transistor, IC?

Probably the high inrush of current in the IC.

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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I just had the chance to test the DVD and it's almost dead and the HDD is completely dead. I guess the PSU problem send wrong voltage to everything.

I have 2 questions I need help with:

1) The DVD drive is still recognized in ConfigMagic, but when I push Eject nothing happens, not even the classic blinking. Is there a way to fix it?

2) The HDD was connected using a startech SATA adapter that I guess should be also dead (considering the HDD) and the best approach is probably just discarding it. I wonder if it may be the cause of my whole issue, what do you think? I am asking because I am going to need a couple new adapters.

 

Thanks in advance

Edited by ecordovas
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