Dusty Blue Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 Searched a good bit on the general symptoms of power button failure for Xbox original but most lead back to trace corrosion issues. The case here is a very small person got access to my original xbox and spent an unknown amount of time mashing the power button. The next time I went to turn her on, the power button flashed for a brief second and hard drive spun as well but then died. A few more attempts and now nothing happens. The switch still clicks audibly for what thats worth but no sounds that power is getting to anything and no light. I've opened it up to start looking at possible source of damage but have not come up with anything. Looking for any suggestions or guidance on where and what to probe. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_Dave Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 What version is the Xbox? It could be anything from a dead PSU, Failed Caps, Trace corrosion, Failed power switch (what happens if you press the eject button?), Failed Main board. Check the power supply for a STB (Stand-By) power and see if you get anything on the PowOn wire when you press the power button. It would also help if you uploaded some pics of the boards to a pic share site and post the links here. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Blue Posted June 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 Unfortunately I don't know the version. Not sure if there's a way beyond the KD identifiers when you start up with no disc. I can test the STB and upload pics as well. Well I disassembled, I looked for the classic signs of trace corrosion but found nothing. in fact the board is really clean compared to things I've seen. On the Power Supply side there is some hard paste in a couple places (thermal paste perhaps?) but otherwise I don't see really any components that look leaky, corroded. One thing I found, after connecting all the components electrically but not assembling the box and screwing things back down: the power button and eject button both cause the fan to spin for about 1-2 seconds. That's all that happens, no lights or anything, just a quick spin up of the fan and then its dead. Appreciate very much the reply! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaosEngineer Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 Sounds like a dead transistor on a v1.6 Xbox motherboard. Is it a 1.6? Q7C2 - MMBT4403LT1G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Blue Posted June 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 4 hours ago, KaosEngineer said: Sounds like a dead transistor on a v1.6 Xbox motherboard. Is it a 1.6? Q7C2 - MMBT4403LT1G Yes, it appears to be a 1.6. Xcalibur video chip identified and I believe that was a 1.6 only feature. Is Q7C2 the transistor you're suggesting to test? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_Dave Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 Test the voltages like in this pic 6 hours ago, Dusty Blue said: On the Power Supply side there is some hard paste in a couple places (thermal paste perhaps?) It's a silicone glue to stop movement and high frequency noise and it normal. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Blue Posted June 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 46 minutes ago, SS_Dave said: Test the voltages like in this pic It's a silicone glue to stop movement and high frequency noise and it normal. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing. Dave thanks for this tip. Here’s a pic of that area though it’s Q7G1 and Q7G2, not “C” I assume it’s the right spot. I’m reading 5v on 2 when pushing power and -.6 on 1. 4.4v total measured across then so it would seem to check out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_Dave Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 48 minutes ago, Dusty Blue said: Dave thanks for this tip. Here’s a pic of that area though it’s Q7G1 and Q7G2, not “C” I assume it’s the right spot. I’m reading 5v on 2 when pushing power and -.6 on 1. 4.4v total measured across then so it would seem to check out. I get (Gone error 410) when trying to open the link. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_Dave Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 4 hours ago, Dusty Blue said: Dave thanks for this tip. Here’s a pic of that area though it’s Q7G1 and Q7G2, not “C” I assume it’s the right spot. I’m reading 5v on 2 when pushing power and -.6 on 1. 4.4v total measured across then so it would seem to check out. Try using file share site like Postimages.org then post the link here. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaosEngineer Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 6 hours ago, Dusty Blue said: Here’s a pic of that area though it’s Q7G1 and Q7G2, not “C” I assume it’s the right spot. Not quadrant 7G, the transistor(s) to test are in quadrant 7C between the clock capacitor and the Xyclops chip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Blue Posted June 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2021 19 hours ago, KaosEngineer said: Not quadrant 7G, the transistor(s) to test are in quadrant 7C between the clock capacitor and the Xyclops chip. Got it now, thanks. I get voltage across them both. Not sure what readings I need to expect from a multimeter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Blue Posted June 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2021 On 6/27/2021 at 5:27 PM, SS_Dave said: Test the voltages like in this pic It's a silicone glue to stop movement and high frequency noise and it normal. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing. Now that I have the right transistors, I get some of these readings but not all of them. Both transistors have a voltage measured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_Dave Posted June 29, 2021 Report Share Posted June 29, 2021 On the bottom transistor are you getting the 3.3 volt? Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Blue Posted June 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2021 17 minutes ago, SS_Dave said: On the bottom transistor are you getting the 3.3 volt? Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing. No, more like 1.18v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_Dave Posted July 2, 2021 Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 On 6/29/2021 at 2:12 PM, Dusty Blue said: No, more like 1.18v I would say the the transistor has failed Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lina_Inverse_ Posted September 4, 2021 Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 The transistor part number is MMBT3906LT1. I believe they're available on eBay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lina_Inverse_ Posted September 4, 2021 Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deSa6-yeY1I In this video, someone does the repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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