Baggashite Posted April 17, 2021 Report Share Posted April 17, 2021 (edited) I just tried to power up a 1.6 crystal, and nada, so I checked the PSU, and there's nothing on the 3.3V standby. I CBA faultfinding, as the parts with shipping will likely cost as much as a PSU, so I need a PSU for a 1.6. .. does anybody have one? Cash (PayPal) or exchange for 1.0 - 1.1 PSU. Also need an OLED OpenXenium with daughterboard, if anyone has one. I'm in Ireland. Edited April 17, 2021 by Baggashite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_Dave Posted April 17, 2021 Report Share Posted April 17, 2021 The 1.6 only has a 5 volt standby from the power supply and the PowOk pin should have 3.3 volt is from the main board to the PSU The orange and should at least give a pulse when you plug in the AC if no pulse the the PSU has failed if the pulse is there then the transistors near the gold cap properly have failed I have had a 1.6 running with just a 12 and 5 volt supply Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaosEngineer Posted April 17, 2021 Report Share Posted April 17, 2021 1 hour ago, Baggashite said: I just tried to power up a 1.6 crystal, and nada, so I checked the PSU, and there's nothing on the 3.3V standby. I CBA faultfinding, as the parts with shipping will likely cost as much as a PSU, so I need a PSU for a 1.6. .. does anybody have one? Cash (PayPal) or exchange for 1.0 - 1.1 PSU. Also need an OLED OpenXenium with daughterboard, if anyone has one. I'm in Ireland. Make sure the power supply unit (PSU) you swapped in is for a 1.6 Xbox. Even though the connector is the same 2x10 ATX-style connector on v1.2-1.4 PSU's, the voltage levels on the pins is a bit different. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baggashite Posted April 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2021 13 hours ago, KaosEngineer said: Make sure the power supply unit (PSU) you swapped in is for a 1.6 Xbox. Even though the connector is the same 2x10 ATX-style connector on v1.2-1.4 PSU's, the voltage levels on the pins is a bit different. It's definitely a 1.6 PSU. I have a few of all 3 types but no spare 1.6. I removed one from another box to make sure it wasn't the board, and it's definitely the PSU that's at fault. There's no voltage at all on the blue wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baggashite Posted April 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2021 (edited) 14 hours ago, SS_Dave said: The 1.6 only has a 5 volt standby from the power supply and the PowOk pin should have 3.3 volt is from the main board to the PSU The orange and should at least give a pulse when you plug in the AC if no pulse the the PSU has failed if the pulse is there then the transistors near the gold cap properly have failed I have had a 1.6 running with just a 12 and 5 volt supply Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing. There's 5V on the orange (actually fluctuating between 4 and 5 when plugged in to the board, and a solid 5.5V when disconnected.) but nothing (well. 0.1V when disconnected from the board) on the blue. Edited April 17, 2021 by Baggashite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baggashite Posted April 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2021 (edited) Is it possible to switch on a 1.6 PSU by shorting any of the wires? The box is going to eventually be running an Arduino from the Standby +5V rail, and I was planning on using a proximity sensor for switching it on, so if the PSU will turn on without going through the MCPX boot process, and the board will boot, I could work with that. Edited April 17, 2021 by Baggashite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaosEngineer Posted April 17, 2021 Report Share Posted April 17, 2021 I believe that 1.6 PSU voltage level table is wrong. Only the 5Vdc standby voltage on the orange wires will be present when the console if OFF with AC power connected. Check the following archived webpage for troublelshooting the power / eject board - power on/off issues with the console. http://web.archive.org/web/20160426094500/http://diy.sickmods.net/Tutorials/Xbox1/Power-Eject_Pinouts/ A v1.6 motherboard is a different beast than previous revs of it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_Dave Posted April 17, 2021 Report Share Posted April 17, 2021 3 hours ago, Baggashite said: There's no voltage at all on the blue wire. You will not get the 3.3 on the blue(PowOk) with out the 5 volt from the orange wire working With the B+ 5volt Orange wire the main board then sends a 3.3 volt (PowOk) to the PSU to tell the power supply to enter standby When you hit the power button the Xbox then sends 3.3 volt(PowOn) to the PSU to switch on the Red 5 volt and the Yellow 12 volt and when it sees the other to it then starts the boot procedure. As far as I can tell the red 5 volt is for the Game Ports and Video output section and the 12 volt is for the Fan and the 8 volt regulator for the Audio section. Also the 1.6 PSU will not keep the B+ 5 volt alive without the 3.3 PowOk There should be plenty of 1.6 PSU's out there as not many modders just salvage the Ram, DVD drives, GPU heat sink and maybe the cases and scrap the rest. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baggashite Posted April 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2021 (edited) Thanks for the help guys. SS_Dave and KaosEngineer....you're right about there being no 3.3V at the blue wire. I just tested the known-working PSU and it reads the same as the non-worker (0.1V). I'll see if I can find a PSU on EvilBay. Cheers Edited April 17, 2021 by Baggashite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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