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110 volt PSU compared to a 220 volt


SS_Dave
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Has any one really had a look for the differences between the 110 and 220 volt supplies.

I have started comparing a Jap PSU (100-127 volt) to a Aus PSU (220-240 volt) and so far the two main differences is the Aus spec has a extra power filter on the AC input and the Jap version has a hidden link under the main power filter

The part with the red star is on the 220 volt and on the 110 volt there is a link at the red arrow

The blue arrows are the only difference I have seen so far as far as the different input voltage and the link is doing the same as a universal Xbox PSU I have that has a 110/220 switch.

It is  looking like you could add a link to make a 220v into a 110v or remove it to make a 110v into a 220v version.

 

https://imgur.com/a/g5nWjqw

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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9 hours ago, SS_Dave said:

Has any one really had a look for the differences between the 110 and 220 volt supplies.

I have started comparing a Jap PSU (100-127 volt) to a Aus PSU (220-240 volt) and so far the two main differences is the Aus spec has a extra power filter on the AC input and the Jap version has a hidden link under the main power filter

The part with the red star is on the 220 volt and on the 110 volt there is a link at the red arrow

The blue arrows are the only difference I have seen so far as far as the different input voltage and the link is doing the same as a universal Xbox PSU I have that has a 110/220 switch.

It is  looking like you could add a link to make a 220v into a 110v or remove it to make a 110v into a 220v version.

 

https://imgur.com/a/g5nWjqw

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

The transformers might be different. Have you measured them?

Edited by SakisTheDrifter
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4 hours ago, SakisTheDrifter said:

The transformers might be different. Have you measured them?

So far the 3 main transformers that I have checked have the same part number on them and a resistance test give the same readings.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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20 hours ago, SS_Dave said:

Has any one really had a look for the differences between the 110 and 220 volt supplies.

I have started comparing a Jap PSU (100-127 volt) to a Aus PSU (220-240 volt) and so far the two main differences is the Aus spec has a extra power filter on the AC input and the Jap version has a hidden link under the main power filter

The part with the red star is on the 220 volt and on the 110 volt there is a link at the red arrow

The blue arrows are the only difference I have seen so far as far as the different input voltage and the link is doing the same as a universal Xbox PSU I have that has a 110/220 switch.

It is  looking like you could add a link to make a 220v into a 110v or remove it to make a 110v into a 220v version.

 

https://imgur.com/a/g5nWjqw

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Are the two larger electrolytic capacitors to the right of the link pointed to by the blue arrow the same voltage rating?

I believe those two on 220V PSUs are rated at 450V while 110VAC use 250V rated caps.

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The main filter caps in both versions are 3300uf 200volt there is also a varistor (MDC M151) that are rated at 150 volt across each of the main filter caps.

The N channel Mosfets are different but the specs are the same.

Both are Delta brand supplies from version 1.0 Xbox's.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Both supplies I tried are for the version 1.0 - 1.1 and are the Delta Electronics branded PSU.

The tick box markings on the 100 volt is 100-127v and DSPN-96AP the tick box's for the 220 is 220-240v and DSPN-96AP-1

All the other components I have looked at are the same and even the Pico fuse(F1)is a 3.15amp on both so I don't see why it could not be converted.

I removed the J11 link on the 100 volt supply and tested it up to 255 volt AC as the supply here could be 221 to 251 with a average of 240 AC 50hz and all the outputs ( 3.3 , 5, 12) tested fine even with the AC input down to 170 volt AC and below 165 volt AC the supply would only give the 3.3volt standby and not the other outputs

I can see no reason why you could not add the link and convert from 220 to 110 volt.

Edit: I have now tested a 220 volt with a link added and it runs fine on 100 volt.

Please note I have not tested converting a 220 to 110 ( I have no need to as we use 240 volt ) and I take no responsibility if you get hurt/killed trying or you let the magic smoke out (blow it up) and I have only tested the Delta brand as mentioned above.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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  • 2 years later...

i like to thank you for giving us this info it helped me a lot .

i did remove the jumper but i heard someplace i should remove  the yellow transister right to right cap and it worked

i measured  the temp of the caps they have no heat problem but the iron thing with warning label after shutting it down it reached 41c

should i be concearn or is it normal  and what its called  is it voltage regulator ?

Edited by DARK A
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3 hours ago, DARK A said:

i like to thank you for giving us this info it helped me a lot .

i did remove the jumper but i heard someplace i should remove  the yellow transister right to right cap and it worked

i measured  the temp of the caps they have no heat problem but the iron thing with warning label after shutting it down it reached 41c

should i be concearn or is it normal  and what its called  is it voltage regulator ?

Was the yellow part you removed marked Z1 or Z2?

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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On 12/6/2023 at 5:48 PM, DARK A said:

i like to thank you for giving us this info it helped me a lot .

i did remove the jumper but i heard someplace i should remove  the yellow transister right to right cap and it worked

i measured  the temp of the caps they have no heat problem but the iron thing with warning label after shutting it down it reached 41c

should i be concearn or is it normal  and what its called  is it voltage regulator ?

Was the yellow part you removed marked Z1 or Z2? ( MDC z150 )

Z1 and Z2 are varistors that are designed to go short circuit if they get 150 Vdc or more and that will cause the main fuse F1 to blow

You should replace it as it's over voltage protection for the main filter capacitors that are rated at 200 Vdc, The 2 filter caps will normally have around 75 to 100 Vdc on each cap.

 

Quote

i measured  the temp of the caps they have no heat problem but the iron thing with warning label after shutting it down it reached 41c

That's a heat sink for the voltage reducing transistors and 41c is fine.

 

The Xbox heat sinks ( GPU, CPU, Power supply) will get hotter when you have the Xbox running in the disassembled condition as the plastic HDD and DVD trays form air ducts to force air over the heat sinks.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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3 hours ago, SS_Dave said:

Was the yellow part you removed marked Z1 or Z2? ( MDC z150 )

Z1 and Z2 are varistors that are designed to go short circuit if they get 150 Vdc or more and that will cause the main fuse F1 to blow

You should replace it as it's over voltage protection for the main filter capacitors that are rated at 200 Vdc, The 2 filter caps will normally have around 75 to 100 Vdc on each cap.

 

That's a heat sink for the voltage reducing transistors and 41c is fine.

 

The Xbox heat sinks ( GPU, CPU, Power supply) will get hotter when you have the Xbox running in the disassembled condition as the plastic HDD and DVD trays form air ducts to force air over the heat sinks.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Z1 what the deference if i removed 1  or 2 ?

so you suggest i return the z1 ?

and is it the reason for the heat on the  heat sink voltage transistor ?

wouldn't that make it  return to  100v  and blow if 220v  ?

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On 12/10/2023 at 12:23 AM, DARK A said:

Z1 what the deference if i removed 1  or 2 ?

so you suggest i return the z1 ?

and is it the reason for the heat on the  heat sink voltage transistor ?

wouldn't that make it  return to  100v  and blow if 220v  ?

The part you removed (Z1) has nothing to do with the mains voltage, It's to prevent the main filter caps ( 330uf 200v ) from exploding if the PSU get a over voltage. The 2 main filter caps could potentially see 350 to 400 volts DC if you connect a 100-127 volts AC supply to a 220-240 volts AC. 

The input voltage is set by the link (J11) you removed.

The heat sink with the yellow stickers as 2 X rectifiers (these convert AC power to DC power ) and 2 X regulators  (these reduce the DC power from the rectifiers to 12 volt and 5 volt. There is also a temperature sensor to shut down the power supply if it gets to hot.

There is parts of Australia that has night time temperatures above 40c and even were I live we have summer day temps of 38c or more, so don't worry about the heat sink temp of 41c. The Xbox and most consumer electronics will have been designed to work in 0c to 70c temps

As long as the fan is clean the Xbox will keep it's self cool even with 20 year old thermal pads ( It's  NOT thermal paste) between the CPU/GPU and the heatsinks.

For the best cooling have the Xbox on a hard surface ( Not carpet ) with at least a 1 inch (25mm) preferably 2 inches (50mm) on both sides .

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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12 hours ago, PRince404 said:

I remember seeing a cap kit on r/originalxbox that someone posted, it was for turning a 120v PSU into a 220v one.

Or am I hallucinating?

I have seen someone that claims on some PSU's you only need to replace the one main filter cap with a 400 volt version but I seriously doubt it's that simple.

I think console5 have power supply capacitor kits and they would have a 100-127 version and a 220-240 version of the kits

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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Just wondering the link thats on one of them, could be akin to the switch on Most decent PC PSUs.  120v one way 240 the other.

Thinking  of the heritage of the OG Xbox, its essentially a highly modded PC so goes to high possibility that Delta or whom ever built the first PSU’s probably raided the PC parts bin.  

The PSU does little more than your standard PC’ PSU the only real difference is the latching voltage for the standby PON.

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10 hours ago, SS_Dave said:

The part you removed (Z1) has nothing to do with the mains voltage, It's to prevent the main filter caps ( 330uf 200v ) from exploding if the PSU get a over voltage. The 2 main filter caps could potentially see 350 to 400 volts DC if you connect a 100-127 volts AC supply to a 220-240 volts AC. 

The input voltage is set by the link (J1) you removed.

The heat sink with the yellow stickers as 2 X rectifiers (these convert AC power to DC power ) and 2 X regulators  (these reduce the DC power from the rectifiers to 12 volt and 5 volt. There is also a temperature sensor to shut down the power supply if it gets to hot.

There is parts of Australia that has night time temperatures above 40c and even were I live we have summer day temps of 38c or more, so don't worry about the heat sink temp of 41c. The Xbox and most consumer electronics will have been designed to work in 0c to 70c temps

As long as the fan is clean the Xbox will keep it's self cool even with 20 year old thermal pads ( It's  NOT thermal paste) between the CPU/GPU and the heatsinks.

For the best cooling have the Xbox on a hard surface ( Not carpet ) with at least a 1 inch (25mm) preferably 2 inches (50mm) on both sides .

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

thanks for the info so i  should return it , does it have plus and minus or i should plug it anyway i like ?

41 is little consoren to me because summer in my country 55c and maybe 60c in the day 43c at night but since you said it can handle up to 70c thats  good to know

thanks for the cooling info , i thought it was thermal paste not pads  because some videos  cleaning xbox  and removing old paste ?

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On 12/11/2023 at 5:54 AM, DARK A said:

thanks for the info so i  should return it ,

41 is little consoren to me because summer in my country 55c and maybe 60c in the day 43c at night but since you said it can handle up to 70c thats  good to know

 

Quote

does it have plus and minus or i should plug it anyway i like ?

It wont matter which way the varistor is fitted it's not polarized 

 

Quote

thanks for the cooling info , i thought it was thermal paste not pads  because some videos  cleaning xbox  and removing old paste ?

If you remove the heat sinks the stuff on the heat sink is a prefect square and if it was paste from the factory it would not be a square and more of a circle.

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Bump.

I’ve reached out to @SS_Dave earlier in the week but no reply. From all my digging and asking around, he’s the only one that seems to have info on converting my 220v PSUs to 110v. Does anyone else have more information on this topic? I’ve posted in multiple places and reached out to many people. Nobody has any information on this other than this picture posted by SS_Dave some time ago. I’m amazed at the lack of information on this subject, after all these years. 
 

https://imgur.com/a/FLD6s4k

Edited by MadMartigan
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  • 2 months later...

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