Aero_105 Posted March 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2021 14 hours ago, big F said: best option follow the traces from the power button back onto the board, you'll probably find another track thats damaged. I examined the power switch for trace damage there is none but checking the continuity test for both power switch and eject switch seems intermittent. I check a similar switch I have it is consistent for continuity when pressed. But that shouldn't affect the original xbox from powering on when plugged in. There must be more traces affected on the motherboard. 11 hours ago, SS_Dave said: If you add a link here that should get the power button working. I ended up splicing into the green wire as it is already connected to the smd resistor and then soldered the link to the corresponding chip leg. The original xbox powers on immediately when plugged in with no power down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big F Posted March 5, 2021 Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 I think the splice is probably holding the power sense closed so the box power state is forced on. check the traces for the power buttons on the main board. The intermittent nature of the buttons, if you tested it unplugged from the main board is not desirable but not likely to be the cause. could be a simple as a dry joint on the power board socket, or another component in that line. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aero_105 Posted March 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 I disconnected the power and eject switch connector from the motherboard plugged in the original xbox and it still powers on. I followed the following link to get a better idea of what is going on. http://fillwithcoolblogname.blogspot.com/2011/02/1st-gen-xbox-trace-corrosion-repair.html I rechecked all the traces from "A" - "E". The "E" trace does not have continuity but it is hard to follow where the trace leads to see if there is damage. Could someone verify the "E" trace connection is correct in the following post. https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/29-how-to-fix-trace-corrosion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aero_105 Posted March 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2021 Well I ended up desoldering the green wire off the leg of the chip. Then left the yellow wire I soldered earlier on the 4th leg up on the chip. Now the xbox original powers on with no interference. Thanks for the help. This concludes the post as solved. The hard drive still makes the clicking noise but that will be for another day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_Dave Posted March 6, 2021 Report Share Posted March 6, 2021 Good to here The yellow wire looks really close to shorting to the pin either side of where it is soldered. you should have the wire in line with the pin like the yellow line Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hari125 Posted March 31, 2021 Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 Maybe there are some leaking capasitors. The leak that comes out of them is conductive and eats away metal (that eventually could cause short circuit). You should replace them with high quality ones and before that - clean the leakage with isopropyl alcohol. Hope that's helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy Posted June 19, 2023 Report Share Posted June 19, 2023 On 3/3/2021 at 10:17 AM, Aero_105 said: I purchased a 40 watt weller solder iron, some 60/40 solder, desoldering braid and liquid rosin flux. I practiced soldering and desoldering on a bad computer motherboard. I then soldered a ethernet wire to bridge the gaps but had difficulty with the pin hole point of the trace and could not get the wire to hold. The silver plate point was soldered but when desoldering it came off I was trying to put a new wire in that was better tinned. I figured the wire must of been to big. Now I have two damaged points. Could I back track further and solder from point near R3G4 the top of the board to another point past the silver plate point of "Trace A" to point near C7P6. I found a thinner wire about half the size I was using by splicing a broken xbox original controller cable. Point near C7P6 https://drive.google.com/file/d/184pdYORMIgrXsXWQiUSVUjiBCZPCUF_g/view?usp=sharing Point near R3G4 https://drive.google.com/file/d/12fBZmCnIaZO9DzZ6SuR1kDWqUbJ_uBTT/view?usp=sharing i find that if you use the wire from usb bevice its better than ethernet .. much smaller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy Posted June 19, 2023 Report Share Posted June 19, 2023 Just now, Swampy said: i find that if you use the wire from usb device its better than ethernet .. much smaller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big F Posted June 19, 2023 Report Share Posted June 19, 2023 31 minutes ago, Swampy said: Kynar wire is the best option. It’s cheap and designed to do the job. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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